2011 JSW Clutch nightmare

[Tdimrtwo]

I just changed the clutch on my 250k miles 6MT JSW, and now the clutch won’t release completely. So I replaced the clutch master cylinder, thinking it might be worn, but after hours of bleeding, it’s no different than before. The clutch engages close to the floor, and I can’t shift gears or into reverse with the engine running. Is there anything I can adjust, check, or repair before I swap the clutch out again?

A little more history: I burned up the old clutch when the shift linkage came apart and the car got stuck in 5th gear. I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing and slave cylinder with a spare that I had from the previous clutch job, but I didn’t replace the DMF, which had been replaced previously. The clutch that I burned up released perfectly prior to the linkage issue, so I now think the issue is the new clutch that I installed. TIA for any help or advice before I tear into it again.

 

[super1]

I just changed the clutch on my 250k miles 6MT JSW, and now the clutch won’t release completely. So I replaced the clutch master cylinder, thinking it might be worn, but after hours of bleeding, it’s no different than before. The clutch engages close to the floor, and I can’t shift gears or into reverse with the engine running. Is there anything I can adjust, check, or repair before I swap the clutch out again?

A little more history: I burned up the old clutch when the shift linkage came apart and the car got stuck in 5th gear. I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing and slave cylinder with a spare that I had from the previous clutch job, but I didn’t replace the DMF, which had been replaced previously. The clutch that I burned up released perfectly prior to the linkage issue, so I now think the issue is the new clutch that I installed. TIA for any help or advice before I tear into it again.

I’m not sure if this pertains to your your vehicle, but I thought you couldn’t interchange LUK & Sacks Flywheels & Clutches with each other? Maybe somebody else can chime in?
You know what brand the DMF & Clutch setup is?

 

[Tdimrtwo]

I have a Luk dmf and clutch, and you’re correct that they’re not interchangeable with Sachs, the clutch dowel pins aren’t the same size. Doesn't apply to me, but thanks for the heads up.

 

[Garrison]

Silly question, have you tried adjusting the shifter mechanism on top of the transmission?

It should have two twist cables to release tension, adjust + test, and then lock the collars

 

[Tdimrtwo]

Definitely not a silly question, thanks for the reasoned response. Yes, I have properly adjusted the linkage using the correct tool, and I can run correctly through all the gears as long as the engine’s not running. My issue is that the clutch isn’t totally disengaging when the clutch pedal is depressed. I believe that either I have air in the clutch lines, or the clutch/slave cylinder combination is defective and not releasing completely. I just don’t know how to determine which is the issue without pulling the transmission again.

 

[McGuirk]

Definitely not a silly question, thanks for the reasoned response. Yes, I have properly adjusted the linkage using the correct tool, and I can run correctly through all the gears as long as the engine’s not running. My issue is that the clutch isn’t totally disengaging when the clutch pedal is depressed. I believe that either I have air in the clutch lines, or the clutch/slave cylinder combination is defective and not releasing completely. I just don’t know how to determine which is the issue without pulling the transmission again.

Watch this video. They describe the issue your dealing with and recommend a certain procedure for these 6speeds to get the air out. I hope this helps.
6speed clutch bleed

 

[mikerob97]

I had a similar problem years ago on a Ford Focus after I installed a new clutch, pressure plate and TO bearing. The Focus also had the combination throw out bearing - slave cylinder design (I despise this design). Could never quiet bleed all the air out of the system. The clutch engaged / disengaged very close to the floor and really was undrivable. I could pump on the pedal, and improve the engagement / disengagement temporarily, but eventually the pedal would fail to actuate the pressure plate sufficiently.

I had installed the aftermarket TO Bearing / Clutch slave that was included in the clutch kit. I took the transmission off again, and replaced the TO bearing with a Ford part. That was the fix. The system bled properly and no more issues. If your flywheel, pressure plate and clutch are all correct, the TO bearing is where I would focus.

 

[Tdimrtwo]

Thanks McGuirk and Mikerob97. Over the past 2 weeks I have watched this video and many others, tried every bleeding method suggested and a couple I made up on my own, replaced the clutch xßmaster cylinder, and bought a vacuum/pressure pump to pressure bleed it. Nothing seems to work. I think I’ll try the Dieselgeeks video method one more time, then maybe it’s time to pull the transmission and start over with a new quality clutch set.

 

[Garrison]

Another question for you, when you did the clutch job initially, did you replace the throwout bearing with a "new" spare or used spare?

 

[Tdimrtwo]

I’ve changed the clutch twice now, replaced the throw out bearing/slave cylinder both times with new ones from tbe clutch kit. Worked fine on clutch #1, won’t release completely on clutch #2.

 

[Garrison]

Since we're going hog-wild - did you replace the clutch line?

Possible with the high mileage that its rubber has lived its useful life in which case it would never supply the required pressure because its' expansion wouldn't allow for it.

You probably could test this with a hand pressure gauge before purchasing anything if you can locate the spec

 

[Tdimrtwo]

I changed the fluid supply line from the brake reservoir when I changed the master cylinder, but I haven’t changed the pressure line going to the slave cylinder. Since I now have a pressure pump, I could pressure it up from the bleeder valve and look for leaks.

 

[Garrison]

I changed the fluid supply line from the brake reservoir when I changed the master cylinder, but I haven’t changed the pressure line going to the slave cylinder. Since I now have a pressure pump, I could pressure it up from the bleeder valve and look for leaks.

Leaks, yes - as well, make sure the static pressure holds - if you can't get it to do that, I might assume a weak clutch line; in which case a braided SS line should do the trick.

Good luck!

 

[Tdimrtwo]

The clutch line is metal, not rubber, so I’d be surprised if it had any expansion. But I’m examining everything, so I’ll give it a good once over.

 

[Garrison]

Makes sense ^, I have a DSG box so I'm running off general memory for cars, thanks for the correction

 

[Tdimrtwo]

Correction, the clutch pressure line appears to be hard plastic, to me, still not likely to expand under pressure.

 

[borninabus]

what's the story on the "spare" clutch kit?

 

[Tdimrtwo]

I Ordered the first clutch kit from rockauto, but it was listed incorrectly on their website, and was the wrong clutch. I then ordered the correct clutch kit from Amazon, intending to return the rockauto one for store credit. I then called the mfg number listed on the paperwork (perfect clutch), and they confirmed the kit from rockauto was listed incorrectly and sent me the correct clutch kit for free, so I had an extra clutch kit, since I had already ordered another one from Amazon.

 

[borninabus]

ah, ok. making sure it wasn't used or something like that.
do you have the part numbers of what you installed?
who was the MFG that you called?

being that this occurred after installation, the new parts have to be high on the list of potential causes. regardless of what you ordered, weird supply chain stuff happens these days. especially when dealing with huge companies like RA and unknown sources like Amazon. i received a CV axle from RA that clearly had been installed and returned to a different vendor (who i recognized). RA sent me another at no cost.

your symptoms though are very similar to how mine acted right before my bleeder block failed.

 

[Tdimrtwo]

Thanks borninabus.
So I took it for a drive last night to see if I could live with the clutch as is, and noticed some clutch slippage at full throttle. This tells me that something is wrong with the clutch kit I installed, and I probably need to start over with new components and a new dmf.

 

[mikerob97]

I installed the South Bend Stage 2 Daily clutch disc and pressure plate kit. Came with new DMF. Very happy with it after driving about a year now.

https://www.southbendclutch.com/clutches/K70657F-HD-O-13269/

 

[P2B]

I installed the South Bend Stage 2 Daily clutch disc and pressure plate kit. Came with new DMF. Very happy with it after driving about a year now.

https://www.southbendclutch.com/clutches/K70657F-HD-O-13269/

$2K and no torque rating?

 

[mikerob97]

From the manufacture:

SBC stage 2 daily performance clutch option for 2009-2014 2.0 TDI manual
K70657F-HD-O
This kit includes flywheel designed by Sachs.

The stage 2 daily clutch features a mildly increased pressure plate clamp load and a high metal content organic friction disc. This clutch is conservatively rated at 425ft/lbs making it perfect for daily-driven and modified street cars. The DMF ensures no idle chatter or worries about your vehicle's steel synchronizers.

Places like FCP Euro, and others sell this for $1800-$1900, with all the hardware and the TO Bearing / Slave Cylinder included.

Great pedal feel, just a tad firmer than stock. I know, it is a hell of a good set up for the price!

 

[0835064]

Or the sachs sre….https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/sachs-dmf-sre-clutch-kit-for-bluemotion-cr-2-0-tdi-us-spec-ckra-non-stop-start.html

But, not sure what tariffs are up to so buyer beware.
It holds my gte2260 power just fine