2011 a3 windows not working, any of them

[TurboABA]

if Im understanding this correctly my old unlimited hex cable doesn't support selective tests. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

So you're not even reading what you're telling me to read.... got it!

 

[TurboABA]

Address 01: Engine (CBE) Labels: 03L-906-022-CBE.clb
Part No SW: 03L 997 030 R HW: 03L 906 019 CT
Component: R4 2.0l TDI G000AG 9983
Revision: 12H10--- Serial number: AUX7Z0J8FNG08E
Coding: 0350078
Shop #: WSC 03722 003 1048576
VCID: 3D7128A0642C7FAD9E-8068

No fault code found.
Readiness: 0 0 0 1 1

DTCs were cleared not that long ago.
You'll have to put some driving cycles and miles on it before you're out of the woods to see if any of them will return.

 

[TurboABA]

Also probably worth mentioning, kerma asked if the windows roll up and down if I hold the key in the lock or unlock position. The absolutely do!!! Not really feasible for going to an ATM...but it's movement as the output test only allows me to get the driver front window

So what does this tell us? This tells us that the motors\regulators work. It also tells us that the controllers work.

 

[PickleRick]

So you're not even reading what you're telling me to read.... got it!

I did test the outputs but it never got to any windows other than drivers. At this point I don't think I need it as the values tell me all switched are responding and the door lock tests tell me the motors all work

So what does this tell us? This tells us that the motors\regulators work. It also tells us that the controllers work.

Yes it does. I'm assuming this is an immobilizer issue...at which I'm kind of at a blank as to how to proceed further.

These are not standard 2 pin window regulators so being able to wire them directly might be near impossible. Not sure if the switches even work like a reversible polarity rocker switch as older window rocker switches did.

I'll do more research on how to sync my key/new ignition assembly however the ECU is immobilized. I can send it back to kerma to have it deactivated if needed but if it's possible I'd like to know if I can sync or reprogram everything together in safe mode, verify functionality, before sending in the ECU.

 

[PickleRick]

I have sent an email to kerma to see if I can send them whatever they need to get everything synced. Cluster , ECU, key, igntion, whatever. I have a few spare b5.5 key fobs if those can be programmed to have spares as well.

 

[TurboABA]

I can't follow your assumptions when there's no immo faults.
OK... apparently I didn't pay attention when I scrolled through your scan and missed this

25-Immobilizer -- Status: Malfunction 0010

Address 25: Immobilizer Labels: 1K0-920-xxx-25.clb
Part No SW: 8P0 920 982 S HW: 8P0 920 982 S
Component: KOMBIINSTR. VDO H01 0090
Revision: D0H01003 Serial number: AUX7Z0J8FNG08E
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 49994C7020E4D30D22-801C

1 Fault Found:
01176 - Key
004 - No Signal/Communication

Did you confirm the switches work 100%?
Same with the corresponding fuses?
SC12, SC23, SC28, SC38

If I spend 5min to look at a WD, I see that the switch feeds into the driver control unit... so as long as that controller is happy (which it is, according to your scan), and it gets the signal from the switch, it should make things happen. We already know the controller isn't bad since it "listens" and "obeys" the key commands.
Are you checking WDs and confirming proper wiring\connections\inputs?

 

[PickleRick]

I can't follow your assumptions when there's no immo

Did you confirm the switches work 100%?
Same with the corresponding fuses?
SC12, SC23, SC28, SC38

If I spend 5min to look at a WD, I see that the switch feeds into the driver control unit... so as long as that controller is happy (which it is, according to your scan), and it gets the signal from the switch, it should make things happen. We already know the controller isn't bad since it "listens" and "obeys" the key commands.
Are you checking WDs and confirming proper wiring\connections\inputs?

By confirm if my switches work, I have not physically removed the door card to check via a multi meter.

What I have done is go into the chassis part of the vcds where I can view individual doors, click on advance measuring blocks. I can then check the box of each door. From that point I can hit the switches, and see the screen flip from auto up and/or auto down in relationship to whatever way I'm hitting said switch.

I think I posted a screen shot of those readings for each window showing both auto up and auto down.


I may be understanding your question incorrectly but again with assumptions, in figured if the ECU is seeing me hit each switch up and down, that should verify the switched as operational. The door wiring break is common on these but I'd think a wiring break would lead to a non operational switch.

It's been too cold to pull the boot without tearing, by the time I get home from the shop each night it's already dark. Perhaps we'll have a sunny weekend which will allow a more playable rubber boot for me to pull then reinstall without risk of damage.

A deer ran into the side of my significant others disco last night causing considerable damage. I really need to expedite this repair at this point as now I need to swap doors and see what it will take to straighten her fender. Had she been in the Audi and not the Rover, the deer would have likely gone through the drivers window. There are antler gouges in the paint and across her snorkel. Bent the fender and drivers door in enough where she couldn't open her door.

 

[TurboABA]

Stupid Nature! Hope she's OK.
I'm a little stumped at this stage as I obviously can't poke around in whatever controllers you have to see if I can find anything.
I would've expected J386 to complain about something if it's not seeing some "pre-requisite" in order to allow functionality.
If everything you've said thus far is correct, then it's clearly not happy about something, and it refuses to relay the signal once it get the switch input.
If you're a legit RT customer, I'd suggest posting on their forum as you'll have way more exposure to very technical people\resources.

 

[TurboABA]

I also don't like your 09 & 19 faults... I'd attempt to blow those away to see if anything changes.

 

[PickleRick]

My vcds is second hand but as you can see it is a legit vcds, I needed it to set torsion value after BHW timing belt changes as well as making the bcm changes after making my slush box TDI b5.5 into a 5 speed.

That being said, I never registered it in my name. I have used the RT forums before when I couldn't get my cruise control to work in the 4 runner.

 

[TurboABA]

Well, since it's 2nd hand, you won't qualify for full registration\access, but still go ahead and post where you're able to, and you'll get some help most likely.

Also read this, about the 19 coding.... might want to poke around in the long coding helper on the vehicle to see if anything jumps out at you.

01044 - Ross-Tech Wiki

wiki.ross-tech.com

 

[PickleRick]

I'll research those tonight, thank you. The 09 seems like a non event that many ignore if they are not having other issues. I on the other hand am definitely having issues so it may be an event.

On the recoding of 19, I do have the ability to save current coding before I recode this correct? I don't want to brick the car. This isn't a windows 2000 that I can just toss in a disk to start from scratch, I don't want to jack anything beyond repair.

Also, the admiral is fine. She was a little shaken up. The impact caught her off guard. She only panicked a bit when she couldn't get out at the grocery store.

Took a pry bar to it last night to get it functional for the day. I have a matching color parts rover, unfortunately the fender has on her rig that was damaged was my good front spare fender. I have a good door, just need to see what it takes to get her tinted windows out of her door and into the spare.

 

[TurboABA]

Once again, read what is on the screen.
Just about every single VCDS screen gives you warning, suggestions, hints.
The coding screens are no different. It tells you to record before you make changes.
The golden rule is, scan, save, then erase codes, change things, etc.
Always to as little as possible in each step.... so if you have 94 faults across 5 controllers, only blow away fault codes in one controller at a time, after you've figured out what caused them, or fixed\replaced something. If they are intermittent or whatever, you can blow them away without doing anything. When they are legit faults, blowing them away without addressing the issue only results in them coming back in the near future.