2010 jsw p00af

[Nolan6838]

Hey there. I know this topic has been covered a lot but I haven't found anyone with my specific issues.

Turbo went catastrophically bad a couple weeks ago. Week leading up to it I was hearing what I thought was a boost leak coming from front driver side. In the process of changing the turbo, I found the driver side intercooler hose was loose at the quick connect, replaced with new.

Finished replacing the turbo with reman Borg Warner from the dealership, came with new actuator already installed. Got the car running and still heard a boost leak type noise from front driver side. Driving the car seemed fine until I put my foot in it then the car went to limp mode and the glow plug light flashed. Code p00af.

I read the Ross tech article and changed the n75 valve. (I don't have a vagcom to check and diagnose). Still the same symptoms.

Found goop in the intercooler and removed and cleaned. Checked for leaks, all good. Took a vacuum pump and guage and checked all lines leading to and from the n75 and checked actuator on new turbo, all good.

Replaced entire exhaust, dpf, both cats, and flapper valve (from a donor car that had unrelated issues and was running fine as of last week). This was a diagnosis the dealership gave me for a cool $600. Still same issues.

Im at a loss now and I'm tired of throwing money at it. Anyone have any ideas?

 

[DivineChaos]

Hey there. I know this topic has been covered a lot but I haven't found anyone with my specific issues.

Turbo went catastrophically bad a couple weeks ago. Week leading up to it I was hearing what I thought was a boost leak coming from front driver side. In the process of changing the turbo, I found the driver side intercooler hose was loose at the quick connect, replaced with new.

Finished replacing the turbo with reman Borg Warner from the dealership, came with new actuator already installed. Got the car running and still heard a boost leak type noise from front driver side. Driving the car seemed fine until I put my foot in it then the car went to limp mode and the glow plug light flashed. Code p00af.

I read the Ross tech article and changed the n75 valve. (I don't have a vagcom to check and diagnose). Still the same symptoms.

Found goop in the intercooler and removed and cleaned. Checked for leaks, all good. Took a vacuum pump and guage and checked all lines leading to and from the n75 and checked actuator on new turbo, all good.

Replaced entire exhaust, dpf, both cats, and flapper valve (from a donor car that had unrelated issues and was running fine as of last week). This was a diagnosis the dealership gave me for a cool $600. Still same issues.

Im at a loss now and I'm tired of throwing money at it. Anyone have any ideas?

Did you ensure the actuator was set properly? Could also be a failing vac pump. Have you checked for a vacuume leak?

 

[Nolan6838]

Did you ensure the actuator was set properly? Could also be a failing vac pump. Have you checked for a vacuume leak?

I assumed it was set correctly when I bought it. I checked vacuum at the port where the n75 is fed and checked the integrity of all the lines after it. Plenty of vacuum at the source and all lines held pressure

 

[DivineChaos]

I assumed it was set correctly when I bought it. I checked vacuum at the port where the n75 is fed and checked the integrity of all the lines after it. Plenty of vacuum at the source and all lines held pressure

Never assume. Always verify. Have you run a turbo actuator test to verify it's working properly. Did you actually verify the amount of vac the pump pulls while idling.

 

[Nolan6838]

Never assume. Always verify. Have you run a turbo actuator test to verify it's working properly. Did you actually verify the amount of vac the pump pulls while idling.

Is there a bench test procedure to determine if the actuator is properly set? One that can be done without removing the turbo from the car? Again I don't have a vagcom to monitor voltage output on a laptop but I do have a good multimeter and know how to use it.

Vacuum at the source was 20-25 in hg. I'll have to check again tomorrow for the exact number.

 

[DivineChaos]

Is there a bench test procedure to determine if the actuator is properly set? One that can be done without removing the turbo from the car? Again I don't have a vagcom to monitor voltage output on a laptop but I do have a good multimeter and know how to use it.

Vacuum at the source was 20-25 in hg. I'll have to check again tomorrow for the exact number.

How to test and replace a VNT turbo actuator VW TDI and VNT actuator adjustment

How to replace or adjustment of VNT actuator on VW TDI or Audi TDI engine if it's bad or sticking

www.myturbodiesel.com

 

[HenryGrisham]

Hi Nolan, I'm having the exact same issue with my 2012 Jetta 2.0 TDI and no shop or dealer can figure it out. It's been in the shop for 3 months and we really can't afford to keep throwing money at it. Did you ever find a resolution for your issue?

 

[Nolan6838]

Hi Nolan, I'm having the exact same issue with my 2012 Jetta 2.0 TDI and no shop or dealer can figure it out. It's been in the shop for 3 months and we really can't afford to keep throwing money at it. Did you ever find a resolution for your issue?

I sent it back to the dealership for another diagnosis, this time free, and they came back with a dpf regen was needed. Got the car back and drove it a few times. Glow plug light started blinking again and this time got a p0234 turbo overboost pending code.

 

[calimustang]

Hello,

I had the same problem. actuator was shot. replaced with my spare one, good to go. make sure you have mityvac from Harbor Freight and test it to confirm. it is stupid easy to do.

Vacuum Pump

Amazing deals on this Mityvac Vacuum Pump at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

dreaded P00AF - Actuator module being "stuck"

yep.... got the CEL on and off yesterday then last night it stays on and infamous limp mode. here's the graph...

forums.tdiclub.com

 

[calimustang]

I sent it back to the dealership for another diagnosis, this time free, and they came back with a dpf regen was needed. Got the car back and drove it a few times. Glow plug light started blinking again and this time got a p0234 turbo overboost pending code.

p0234?

16618/P0234/000564 - Ross-Tech Wiki

wiki.ross-tech.com

 

[calimustang]

Possible Causes

• Hoses incorrectly connected, disconnected, blocked or leaking
• Boost Pressure Control Valve (N75) faulty
• Boost Pressure Sensor (G31) faulty
• Turbo Charger stuck/faulty

 

[Nocturnal]

Hello Nolan,
Was wondering if you had any updates because I have the same exact issue. I have a 2013 jsw tdi that the turbo blew up. Replaced everything. Even decided to do timing belt and water pump. Reset ppm with Ross tech after dealer looked at car and couldn’t figure out what was wrong. That’s when I did dpf. Only things not done was nox cat and flap but both were tested and tested good.
Car will run great for a couple of weeks and then randomly go into limp mode. Always the same fault. P00AF. I’m over this car and don’t know what to do anymore. And the dealer is in the same boat. They even messaged vw directly. And got no answer

 

[Nocturnal]

I’m starting to think it’s the pressure sensor and not the turbo boost control. Any thoughts?