JLMurphy
Veteran Member
I replaced the driver's side rear hub and bearing today and thought I'd pass along a couple of thoughts and tips. Not a complete DIY since I forgot to take pictures, but hopefully enough to help people avoid some of the pitfalls I found.
1. There are 2 different hubs for the 2010's and the split is a bit fuzzy. I talked to the guys at idparts.com and we figured that the right one for me was 1T0598611B based on the approximate build date. Turns out we were wrong. For my car, purchased in February of 2010, the right part is 1K0598611. The difference is the inside diameter of the bearing. 1T0598611 is larger than 1K0598611. The guys at idparts had the dimensions, might have been 32mm and 30mm, but I don't recall. I ended up sourcing the part at my local stealership, and they could determine the part based on VIN, but YMMV. Biggest pain is that the 1K version is $50 more than the 1T style. Ouch.
2. The hub and bearing generally come with a new bolt and dust cap, you shouldn't need to order them separately.
3. The actual procedure couldn't be simpler. You'll need a couple of special tools for the job, specifically M14 and M18 triple square bits and a 1/2 breaker bar. You might want a piece of pipe to give extra leverage, the bolt that holds the hub on takes 150ftlb + 1/2 turn, which was a challenge for me at 240lbs. What you won't need is any sort of puller, once you remove the giant bolt holding it on, the bearing slides right off the stub axle.
Here's the procedure:
1. Jack up the car and make sure it's stable. You're going to be putting a lot of torque on the hub mounting bolt and you don't want it falling off the jackstands. Don't put the jackstand under the suspension arm, it's almost impossible to remove the upper caliper bracket bolt if the suspension is compressed. You want the suspension to be fully drooped to be able to reach the bolts.
2. Remove the wheel
3. Remove the caliper. If you're unfamiliar, you'll need a 19mm box end or adjustable wrench to hold the slider while you loosen the caliper mounting bolts (13mm). For the driver's side at least, you'll need to release the parking brake to get the caliper off.
4. Remove the caliper mounting bracket. The bracket is held on with 2 M14 triple square bolts and they are really tight and rusty. A good 1/2 breaker bar is a must here.
5. Remove the brake disc. The screw securing the disc is a T30 Torx.
6. Remove the hub dust cover. A simple flat head screwdriver and a hammer works fine.
7. Remove the hub mounting bolt. This thing is really on there. I managed to get it off using just my 1/2 breaker bar and M18 bit, but you may want to add some extra leverage. I've found that the handle on most of your standard floor jacks makes a handy extension.
8. Slide the hub and bearing off the stub axle.
9. Install the new hub and bearing. Mine slid pretty easily onto the stub axle, you may need a light tap with a rubber mallet to get it on, but I didn't.
10. Install the new hub mounting bolt and tighten to 150ftlb + 1/2 turn. This is where you want to be sure the car is absolutely stable on the jackstand. Perversely, the best thing is to have the jackstand under the suspension arm at this point, since then the suspension is compressed and the weight of the car helps keep everything stable while tightening. I did move the jackstand for this part.
11. Install the dust cover. I used a block of wood and a hammer and it went in fine.
12. Re-install the brake disc, caliper bracket and caliper. I put some anti-seize on the caliper bracket bolts since they were very rusty when I took them off. Made reinstalling them much easier.
13. Re-install the wheel.
14. Road test. Blessed silence from the new bearing compared to the increasingly loud hum from the old one.
The whole job took about an hour, not including the run to the stealership to get the right part.
Hope someone finds this useful.
Jim
1. There are 2 different hubs for the 2010's and the split is a bit fuzzy. I talked to the guys at idparts.com and we figured that the right one for me was 1T0598611B based on the approximate build date. Turns out we were wrong. For my car, purchased in February of 2010, the right part is 1K0598611. The difference is the inside diameter of the bearing. 1T0598611 is larger than 1K0598611. The guys at idparts had the dimensions, might have been 32mm and 30mm, but I don't recall. I ended up sourcing the part at my local stealership, and they could determine the part based on VIN, but YMMV. Biggest pain is that the 1K version is $50 more than the 1T style. Ouch.
2. The hub and bearing generally come with a new bolt and dust cap, you shouldn't need to order them separately.
3. The actual procedure couldn't be simpler. You'll need a couple of special tools for the job, specifically M14 and M18 triple square bits and a 1/2 breaker bar. You might want a piece of pipe to give extra leverage, the bolt that holds the hub on takes 150ftlb + 1/2 turn, which was a challenge for me at 240lbs. What you won't need is any sort of puller, once you remove the giant bolt holding it on, the bearing slides right off the stub axle.
Here's the procedure:
1. Jack up the car and make sure it's stable. You're going to be putting a lot of torque on the hub mounting bolt and you don't want it falling off the jackstands. Don't put the jackstand under the suspension arm, it's almost impossible to remove the upper caliper bracket bolt if the suspension is compressed. You want the suspension to be fully drooped to be able to reach the bolts.
2. Remove the wheel
3. Remove the caliper. If you're unfamiliar, you'll need a 19mm box end or adjustable wrench to hold the slider while you loosen the caliper mounting bolts (13mm). For the driver's side at least, you'll need to release the parking brake to get the caliper off.
4. Remove the caliper mounting bracket. The bracket is held on with 2 M14 triple square bolts and they are really tight and rusty. A good 1/2 breaker bar is a must here.
5. Remove the brake disc. The screw securing the disc is a T30 Torx.
6. Remove the hub dust cover. A simple flat head screwdriver and a hammer works fine.
7. Remove the hub mounting bolt. This thing is really on there. I managed to get it off using just my 1/2 breaker bar and M18 bit, but you may want to add some extra leverage. I've found that the handle on most of your standard floor jacks makes a handy extension.
8. Slide the hub and bearing off the stub axle.
9. Install the new hub and bearing. Mine slid pretty easily onto the stub axle, you may need a light tap with a rubber mallet to get it on, but I didn't.
10. Install the new hub mounting bolt and tighten to 150ftlb + 1/2 turn. This is where you want to be sure the car is absolutely stable on the jackstand. Perversely, the best thing is to have the jackstand under the suspension arm at this point, since then the suspension is compressed and the weight of the car helps keep everything stable while tightening. I did move the jackstand for this part.
11. Install the dust cover. I used a block of wood and a hammer and it went in fine.
12. Re-install the brake disc, caliper bracket and caliper. I put some anti-seize on the caliper bracket bolts since they were very rusty when I took them off. Made reinstalling them much easier.
13. Re-install the wheel.
14. Road test. Blessed silence from the new bearing compared to the increasingly loud hum from the old one.
The whole job took about an hour, not including the run to the stealership to get the right part.
Hope someone finds this useful.
Jim
