200HP 1997 Jetta TDI

[VW97JettaTDI]

Um, that was a bit of a typo lol

cool on the update, but "pushrods"???

 

[VW97JettaTDI]

So any way im going ahead with pulling it starting this saturday and will try and take pics along the way. I think i might make a new thread if i dont get many replys by saturday. Any one who has pulled the AHU engine and done a full engine rebuild
I could use your advice and direction to any step by step threads for assistance. Also if any one has dealt with Illinois Dyno be ware. Tom the guy working there seems like i nice guy and I dont mean to bash. But I started to ask where he was getting his parts from and how they match up and he flipped. I guess thats what happens when you try and douple the cost of parts that you can find everywhere elso for half the price and from the same place!

 

[TDIMeister]

if any one has dealt with Illinois Dyno be ware. Tom the guy working there seems like i nice guy and I dont mean to bash. But I started to ask where he was getting his parts from and how they match up and he flipped. I guess thats what happens when you try and douple the cost of parts that you can find everywhere elso for half the price and from the same place!

Oh, then you'll get 300+ HP with a VNT17. Nooooooooo problem!

 

[VW97JettaTDI]

lol, thats deff what he would say

Oh, then you'll get 300+ HP with a VNT17. Nooooooooo problem!

 

[VW97JettaTDI]

Starting Engine Overhaul, Advice and recomendations are welcome!
Ok so here is what im doing. This is an engine rebuild so any one that has information on engine rebuilds of AHU engines please advise me or direct em to a different thread if you have good step by step advice. Below i will list what im doing and you can be the judge if these are good decisions or not

1. Connecting Rods (ASV) sounds like the best on the market
2. Pistons (NURAL) could go with any number of pistons, just not sure what to stick to
3. ARP Connecting Rod Bolts
4. Fuel/ Oil cooler
A.) not sure where to start so if some one has advice on good fuel and oilcooler setups im all ears
5. mount the VNT 17/22
6. SouthBendClutch
A.) Not sure what kind to get, and how strong. I like a agressive clutch and i know it needs to hold the high torque 400ft/lb max also, not sure if i should or even need to get a new flywheel in conjunction.
7. trash chinese injectors for 520 sprints
8. Not sure of what gaskets and bearings ill need for rebuild but if anyone has a purchasing list before i start tear down that would be great!
9. there are some other engine mods from Rosten such as crank scrapers not sure how benificial that is
A.) not sure if the griddle kit would be useful either?
10. Engine head studs from Rosten, saw some for exhaust and intake but forgot where I saw them (suggestions?)
11. Clean up rollcage and skid plate
12. Swap existing cup kit springs and dampers for an adjustable coilover kit for rally(Suggestions?)

 

[Stealth TDI]

Hello,

2. Pistons (NURAL) could go with any number of pistons, just not sure what to stick to...

I'm pretty sure you can only fit FOUR. Sorry, couldn't resist. Watching with interest...

Scott

 

[mrchill]

Are you sure you need 200hp? It can be done for certain. I have done it. I would suggest if you really feel you need the 200, to go with more injector. The Pistons you chose are ok, and Rosten rods hold up fine. DO a ton of head work. Get a good cam(to reduce EGT) setup the turbo properly and used 2.5 or larger exhaust. Lots of other stuff...but thats a start.

 

[im570rm]

choose some extra cooling pistons with extra oil cooling if you're building the engine from scrach why not go with larger pistons like 2.5 tdi 5 cilynder ones (you'll have to bore the block and have to use a 2.0 tdi 8v gasket)

 

[VW97JettaTDI]

Advice on cams, who & where?

 

[mrchill]

Colt cams work well and are proven. Also plug and play. The Tdimeister cam looks good on paper, it is only now being tested. Keep an eye out for results.

 

[VW97JettaTDI]

Ordering Nural HD's soon. unless some one can suggest a cheaper, more efficient crown with the least possible squish on the top crown with lowest CR w/o sacrificing concentration of combustion.

 

[mrchill]

Those are fine for your target and goals.

 

[Rub87]

dbilas cam works quite well for me..

 

[Silva]

dbilas cam works quite well for me..

me to

 

[savannah996]

Ive built a AHU but only to stock specs with one overbore and larger nozzles.

 

[all-starr-me]

Integrated Engineering has some good rods to for a little less that the rostens, depending on what pistons you have, as they only make a standard rod not ones for the tapered wrist pin like the PD100 style. should come with ARP rod bolts. They also should have ARP TDI headstuds.

There were some lower compression crafter pistons available in the group buy classifieds, not sure on the final price or whether they need PD100 rods. they were 81mm so at least an overbore is necessary.

Im not sure you need a girdle or a crank scraper at your power levels. get some ARP main studs. IE, MJM or even summit have them at a good price. Crank scraper will only help at higher revs you probably won't ever see and the girdle is overkill till your well past 200hp.

I would go with a south bend clutch. either stage 2 endurance or stage 3.

I would go colt cams stage 2. the Dbilas cam are notorious for being backordered 6+ months and not really proven to make much power.

520 sprints aren't gonna get you anywhere near your goal. you need Race 520s, no less.

you may want to look into an 1852 or so rather than a 17/22 as it is integral to the manifold and needs some serious work to clearance the rear motor mount on an AHU. even a T3 60 trim with a 36 A/R turbine would be easier and make more power than a K03/k04.

if you gonna rally it Ground Control can do custom spring rates and valving for shocks. otherwise for a street driven car stick to some weitec/ST/H&R/FK coilovers.

 

[1986.5supra_kid]

Thread revival?

I'm looking to make 200whp since I feel so close with my 170whp setup now
Gt2052 wastegate
Pp764
Fmic
Lift pump
Arp studs
Pod filter
Tdtuning chip

 

[1986.5supra_kid]

 

[andy2]

Thread revival?

I'm looking to make 200whp since I feel so close with my 170whp setup now
Gt2052 wastegate
Pp764
Fmic
Lift pump
Arp studs
Pod filter
Tdtuning chip

I'd check the fuel pressure after the fuel filter to be sure that your lift pump is keeping up If you haven't checked.

Swapping out the 52mm wheel for a 56mm with 40mm inducer would be a good step.If you could find an old turbo to rob the compressor wheel/housing and backing plate that would be good.

The sprinter 2.7L gt2256v wheel is good however the compressor housing has the weird outlet.If you can make an adapter or weld onto the comp housing then it could be a cheap and easy upgrade.

 

[1986.5supra_kid]

I've measured after the filter to hang at 0-1psi at peak load.
Cruising is 3psi
Idle is 7 psi
I've seen the gt2056 for sale

 

[sesap]

Hello I have a 98 Jett's AHU with twin turbos ( gt2256v atmospheric and gt17 as primary) I also have a cummins 12mm pump head with a 3.6mm cam plate and 216 spec injector tips. Now I need a remap to complete my project. I still have the original cummins body (pump) and I could go full mechanical although I really don't want to. I also don't want to drop a bunch of money in tunes and having to send my ECM out every time I want to change. My question is , are there any tuners that I'm able to use with my ECM and what would you recommend. I'm not looking for serious power I use waste engine oil as an alternative fuel ( I start and stop on std diesel) and the extra boost is to clean up smoke and to add power the larger pump is to get injection pressure higher at lower eng speeds to help with smoky idle the larger injectors will be shimmed for higher injection pressure and the higher flow rate is to keep the pump out of a huge strain ( hydraulic lock) during higher eng speeds My next question would be is it possible to tune around removing the signal from the third injector?

 

[sesap]

Another added note I still have the stock bottom end with piston rod updates in future also added bore clearance so I can run engine hotter without scuffing to also help clean up smoke. And I do preheat fuel to coolant temp before it enters the injection pump. My current thermostat is set at 210-215f

Thanks

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

sesap - you've got an unorthodox setup there.

Your tuning won't likely be sending the ECM out each time, but rather someone flashing physical chips that you'll have to replace inside the ECU. By the sounds of it, you'll have a few iterations in tuning so best to have a couple sets of chips so your tuner can flash a couple attempts at once and you can try them both.

You should really keep the 3rd injector signal if you're not going to go full mechanical - that's what provides feedback to the ECU for injection timing.

I'm guessing that your bottom end is relatively safe given the "216" injectors as long as you keep your injection timing under control.

Piston/bore clearance and piston scuffing is the least of your concerns - you'll crack a piston before you scuff one unless you run it out of oil. A hotter engine temp won't do much of anything for cleaning up smoke.

 

[sesap]

The reason for the hotter engine temps is because I'm running waste engine oil as a switched alternative fuel. I have done many low pressure injection (less than 3500psi) engines (IDI and DI) using waste engine oils as fuel (with very good filtration systems) and warmer engine temps help with getting a complete burn at idle and low engine speeds, although these engines have all been on the larger side of cubic inches. This is my first TDI done this way. As of right now my bottom end is still stock although I drive with this in mind and do not hammer it also I have my boost limited to 18psi although I have 18 psi @ 1000 rpm under load. Until I do build up another engine to handle it (stupid boost). Since the last post I have put a full mechanical setup on and it works great although I miss the electronics and still plan to go back. My question now would be who is good to work with on flashing chips? I would like someone local or at least in the same country. I'm located in the Charlotte North Carolina area in the USA. I'm very good with programming the common rail pick-ups and over the road heavy trucks and equipment so I feel like I have a decent idea of what I want to do I just do not know much about the VAG programming although I would assume its not much different than a VE pumped cummins pick-up. Thank You

 

[sesap]

TYPO above (I have my boost limited to 18psi although I have 18 psi @ 1000 rpm under load.) should have been 1900 rpm.

 

[GTiTDi]

I'd check the fuel pressure after the fuel filter to be sure that your lift pump is keeping up If you haven't checked.

Swapping out the 52mm wheel for a 56mm with 40mm inducer would be a good step.If you could find an old turbo to rob the compressor wheel/housing and backing plate that would be good.

The sprinter 2.7L gt2256v wheel is good however the compressor housing has the weird outlet.If you can make an adapter or weld onto the comp housing then it could be a cheap and easy upgrade.

Ooh this sounds like it could be a fun upgrade

Andy, an adapter like this perhaps? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Hose-Fix-Repair-Kit-for-Dodge-Freightliner-02-06-Sprinter-2-7L-5Cyl-Turbo-/271693359123
I see what you mean about the odd cold side of the sprinter turbo, lots of excess material to cut away!