200HP 1997 Jetta TDI

VW97JettaTDI

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TDIMeister said:
There are other, I would argue IMO better, options for intakes than even the PD150 units.

As installed in my former car:


Or if for whatever reason you're not comfortable with a plastic manifold:


But I would recommend this after the injectors, pump, turbo (and not to forget exhaust) and tune are done.
:confused:Where do you find these intake manifolds?? I would love to get one but i just cant find any! Does any one know of any where??
 

VW97JettaTDI

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dieseleux said:
K03/K04 hybride limit power to 120 wheel hp!
Turbine are too small for more power, i have this turbo in my car and is never put more than 121whp with my Gtech RR.




Dieseleux
Thank you!!
 

VW97JettaTDI

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hey, would this be a good idea for performance? or do i need to get a entire fuel pump? also does any one knoe if there are any aftermarket lifters?
 

VW97JettaTDI

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TDIMeister said:
You obviously have not read several posts from various people above.
sorry, i was just trying to narrow since people say they did it and then changed...

Im really just trying to see why people are going for the gt's instead of like a vnt-17/22 for ahu's?? I suck at forums, would be much better in person! :D
 

adman4x4

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1999 Jetta GLS TDI, Totalled 1998 Jetta GLS TDI
hendomatic said:
Ok so how about this combo.

This mannie with a T25 flange:


And this turbo GT2056



Seems like it would be very similar to the setup you just proposed.
Thanks for the pics.
Ive got a question on this setup cause it'l probably be what I do when I upgrade my turbo. If the Jeep Liberty 2056v has a T25 flange and the exhaust manifold has a T25 flange, would an adapter plate be necessary? It seems to not be the case readin this thread...just tryin to figure out why that is if the flanges are the same.
 

hendomatic

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VW97JettaTDI said:
wow, this thread kinda died, :( lol....... (dead silence)
I'm in the "collecting hardware" phase of my project.

I have grown more confidence in my rebuilt stock turbo and the urgency to replace is lessened. Did some sustained 21 psi runs up the interstate to speeds unmentionable :) I think a Mk4 VR6 owner was frustrated that he could not pull away...

So far the parts list is this

rebuilt motor with 3k on the clock ready to rumble.

RC3+ prob ask for RC4 to get to 23 psi
PP520's done thanks drivbiwire
PD130 intake mannie done thanks stuart across the pond
8v exh mannie T25 flange done thanks cxracing
GT2056 done thanks extreme PSI

Intercooler kit TBD still working out the design
PD race pipe. TBD
Solution to fit intake to new turbo TBD
Solution to fit larger exhaust to new turbo TBD
New turbo supply and return oil lines TBD
Lift pump TBD
Keystone compatible mod to pump to get timing advance needed.

So i'm probably going to lurking for the next couple of months as the parts and solutions come together.

It seems there are a thousand ways to skin the cat to moar powr.... :)

I'm taking what I think is a conservative, but hopefully stable path. My goal is not 200 hp, but rather a smooth broad power band of smoke free pedal to the floor.





Once all that comes in, I'll be posting piics and questions for sure.
 

VW97JettaTDI

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hendomatic said:
rebuilt motor with 3k on the clock ready to rumble.
what does on the clock mean??

Also, i too am not looking for raw hp, but a constant power. I would like to have hp around 180hp, but what is really important is a constant spool! and pep! I am obsessed with the idea of a VGT turbo and think that its the solution to everything in the world since no lag is my goal... but low EGT tooooo
 
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hendomatic

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VW97JettaTDI said:
what does on the clock mean??

Also, i too am not looking for raw hp, but a constant power. I would like to have hp around 180hp, but what is really important is a constant spool! and pep! I am obsessed with the idea of a VGT turbo and think that its the solution to everything in the world since no lag is my goal... but low EGT tooooo
It means at 205K miles, I was concerned that the motor could not safely handle the power mods that I was conspiring to put in place.

The main seals on both ends leaked like a sieve, the clutch was already slipping on full throttle, the timing belt was due.. I had this TONK-TONK-TONK sound when cold... sounded like a big end bearing that was wearing. Also a serious tick from the lifter area that was there cold or hot. The turbo was leaking oil into the exhaust, so that was on the list for a rebuild.

So I rebuilt the motor, replaced the clutch and did the timing belt... This exercise, showed how little wear had occurred and put in a new clutch. When I mic'd all the bearing journals and cylinder bores, the engine still met stock specifications. You could still see factory hone marks in the bores.

I put up a personal page with some pics and commentary.

http://www.hendohome.com/jetta/

Found out that indeed the #2 con rod bearing was worn well into the copper and one of the lifters had a very visible wear mark. Kept measuring the #2 crank bearing journal and marveling how it had not suffered from the bearing shell wear.

The turbo rebuilt well, but after looking at the turbine and compressor, I felt like the terb would still fail at some point. So I've been very attuned to every sound that little beastie is making..

So after 3K miles from rebuild(on the clock), the motor is very smooth, no leaks, better mileage etc. etc...

And tada!, ready for more powerful mods.
 

VW97JettaTDI

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hendomatic Nice page!! love the detail! I to have a signature oil spot every where i go on my AHU, did you figure out what it was that you had to do to fix the leak? Im planning on hd pistons, 11mm vnt17/22 and pp764 with 3barmap. I figure ill clead the head when i do the pistons. I really would like to know how deep down the rabbit hole i need to go to get the leak stopped
 

hendomatic

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VW97JettaTDI said:
hendomatic Nice page!! love the detail! I to have a signature oil spot every where i go on my AHU, did you figure out what it was that you had to do to fix the leak? Im planning on hd pistons, 11mm vnt17/22 and pp764 with 3barmap. I figure ill clead the head when i do the pistons. I really would like to know how deep down the rabbit hole i need to go to get the leak stopped
Thanks. I enjoy documenting these things, but tend to forget to take pictures a lot...


My biggest leak was he CCV pipe gasket on the block. The part where the Oring was seated was cracked.

From there, the rear main seal and the front seal. Its nice to see a dry underside of the car.

Your plans sound exciting. Have you sourced a 3 bar map for the AHU ECU or are you doing something more custom?
 

VW97JettaTDI

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just got a 3bar A4 and vnt-17/22 for peter, should be here shortly.... i cant wait!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :D
 

hendomatic

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VW97JettaTDI said:
just got a 3bar A4 and vnt-17/22 for peter, should be here shortly.... i cant wait!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :D
So are you going to run a Mk4 ECU? How are you going to integrate the A4 MAP with the AHU ecu?
 

12MPGHWY

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all you need to do to integrate a 3 bar map is carefully remove the 2.5 bar map and solder 3 wires to bring them outside the ecu case then put a connector on for the 3 bar map.

If your nervous about soldering on the board, you could cut the 2.5 bar map off and leave the leads for it in place and solder to them.
 
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VW97JettaTDI

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12MPGHWY said:
all you need to do to integrate a 3 bar map is carefully remove the 2.5 bar map and solder 3 wires to bring them outside the ecu case then put a connector on for the 3 bar map.

If your nervous about soldering on the board, you could cut the 2.5 bar map off and leave the leads for it in place and solder to them.
That sound like a plan, i have the 3 bar map on its way, now its just a matter of doing the sensor, which i think i saw some one take some photos of the switch before but as i recall it didnt end well for them. If any one has any photos of the swap i would love to see them just send me a message or post them!
 

Rub87

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I used to guide the wires 2 (+5v and signal) true the vent hole in the rear, be sure to use silicone or so otherwise water infiltrates (ask me how I know) the ground and IAT wire I took from the IAT sensor which you can also drop if you use a 3bar arl map with built in IAT sensor
 

VW97JettaTDI

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wow ill be honest i tried hooking up an Apexi neo to my ecu and it came to blow up in my face (not literally) i think im guna ask rocket chip when i call him tuesday
 

hendomatic

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VW97JettaTDI said:
wow ill be honest i tried hooking up an Apexi neo to my ecu and it came to blow up in my face (not literally) i think im guna ask rocket chip when i call him tuesday
How did the 3 bar map install go?

I'm deciding on who's 3 bar map to buy. The one Peter sells needs a pigtail to hook to. Anyone know how to get the wiring side of that?

Some on ebay are perhaps small enough to fit in the ECU for a totally stock look.



I'm in the process of installing my new GT2056 and i've dry fitted it.

http://www.hendohome.com/jetta/turbo_upgrade.html

It fits like everyone elses attempts.. pretty tight, but will work.

It appears that I ended up with a little more breathing room on the cold side than Scott(Stealth TDI) did with his experiment a while ago. A 45 deg 2" to 3" silcone reducer will fit the cold side intake nicely to my stock intake plenum.

For now I'm keeping the stock IC and airbox. One step at a time.

The fun part will be welding up the exhaust. There is much inspiration on this forum to help me get to the finish line.

This pic from dieseleux was particularly encouraging as I was planning to piece together a custom downpipe. Already made the outlet flange as you can see on my webpage.

 

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vw for life

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im trying to get power out of my 1.6 turbo 89 vw and just wondering where and what injectors i get. i already intercooled it and that helped
 

VW97JettaTDI

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Ok so here is what im working on for the engine.
I ahve the 3bar map sensor. I have a VR6 MAF I have .205 injectors unpop tested. I have a VNT 17/22, i have a PD150 intake manifold that bypasses EGR, and a larger FMIC, repiped with hand made bungs for sensors. For monitoring i have a long EGT temp prob with autometer gauge. As for the big final pieces i have been dragging my feet. I cant decide between Nural pistons with rosten connecting rods, or if i should go with a T4 piston. If i did go with the T4 piston i would have to re finish it for clearence and then coat the top of the piston crown with some heat defusing material sense the pistons tend to over heat, i dont know where to start if i needed to do a water injection system. I hope the rosten connecting rods will be good enough.Im going to start pulling the engine starting this weekend and try to get as much done before i leave for American rally in Maine. I still need a southbend clutch also.
There is so much to do, but its amazing i had planned two years ago to go with a set of pistons that were easily 1,000 for just the piston. And like everything was twice what it is now. Everythign is getting cheaper, i feel like if i wait a little longer its going to be what everyone with a fist full of cash does.
 
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