2009 TDI Mileage

[SUNRG]

Just want to add that when I was a punk kid learning to drive a stick, my teacher was an ex-race driver whom I really looked up to. He got on my case for engine-braking too much, though. When I asked him why, he said "Simple economics: which would you rather rebuild -- your brakes, or your engine?"

the saying usually goes

which would you rather replace: your brake pads or your CLUTCH?

if you decelerate by downshifting this will result in more clutch wear than if you did not.

if you decelerate by pressing on the brake this will result in more brake pad wear than if you did not.

if you decelerate by lifting your foot off of the accelorator, then clutch, brake pads and FUEL are preserved .
​

almost poetic!

cheers!

 

[scottd]

Originally Posted by DoctorDawg ..."Simple economics: which would you rather rebuild -- your brakes, or your engine?"

I don't agree with this. In my last car, a Saturn SC2, I used the engine to brake. I had 140K on the car before I sold it. It had the original engine, trans., and clutch. I was also able to go 100K before replacing my brakes.

I have to agree with Lightflyer1. I have 42K on my TDI and use the engine to slow me down.

 

[dr61]

I don't agree with this. In my last car, a Saturn SC2, I used the engine to brake. I had 140K on the car before I sold it. It had the original engine, trans., and clutch. I was also able to go 100K before replacing my brakes.

I have to agree with Lightflyer1. I have 42K on my TDI and use the engine to slow me down.

I agree with scottd; engine braking (without a downshift) has very little effect on engine wear over the life of the engine. Engine wear occurs mostly from cold starting and running, high load, and high RPM operation. Downshifting will cause some wear on clutch, throwout bearing and gear syncros. If I do choose to downshift to slow down, I double-clutch with rev matching to minimize wear on these parts. I would only usually do this during road driving on long downgrades on twisty mountain roads, where brake overheating may be an issue. I also will downshift near the end of the braking zone to select the correct gear for going around and exiting a corner.

 

[Jibeho]

Heel-Toe driving is your friend

I have used this out on the Dragon in my MIMI.

I agree with scottd; engine braking (without a downshift) has very little effect on engine wear over the life of the engine. Engine wear occurs mostly from cold starting and running, high load, and high RPM operation. Downshifting will cause some wear on clutch, throwout bearing and gear syncros. If I do choose to downshift to slow down, I double-clutch with rev matching to minimize wear on these parts. I would only usually do this during road driving on long downgrades on twisty mountain roads, where brake overheating may be an issue. I also will downshift near the end of the braking zone to select the correct gear for going around and exiting a corner.

 

[Lightflyer1]

Heel-toe driving may be apprpriate for performance driving, but I find no need for it in economy driving. You should be in the gear you want before the downgrade or turn you are about to negotiate.

 

[dr61]

Heel-toe driving may be apprpriate for performance driving, but I find no need for it in economy driving. You should be in the gear you want before the downgrade or turn you are about to negotiate.

I agree there is no need with newer cars today, but there is some advantage in terms of wear and smoothness in using this technique or a variation of it. You should be in the gear you want, but to get there you sometimes have to shift down. Since I learned the technique on old British cars of the '60's, I have always practiced double-clutch and heel-toe technique on my cars and I have never had to replace a clutch, throwout bearing, or syncro because of wear on my street cars or race cars.

Back in the late 1980's when I raced a Mk II VW GTI, a fellow driver with the same type car, who never practiced double-clutch and heel-toe technique, blew up his clutch during one race. It came out in very small pieces...

 

[Lightflyer1]

I have never raced and never done heel-toe shifting. I have also never replaced a clutch or transmission or parts of one that someone else hadn't worn out first. The only time I have double clutched is driving semi trucks for UPS. Proper use of momentum will ease the strain on your car and its parts. If people insist on driving their car like an Indy car or dragster, then these may come in handy. Conservation of energy and only use the force required to get the job done. This results in a sedate drive for me with no need for any special techniques.

I used to have a problem with anyone being in front of me. That meant I was constantly passing people since there was "always" someone in front. Now I get passed more often than not, I am more relaxed and aware of things around me, and can control the car mostly without using the brake and/or go pedal. Maybe it is just a carryover from driving my antique 1935 Ford which I drive gently the same way. To each his own though. Viva la difference!

 

[Jibeho]

I just closed the book on my 2114 mile road trip. I would say it was 75-80% highway. Adding to the 2 tanks below are:

Tank 3 275 miles using 6.758 gallons 40.69 Mostly city
Tank 4 511 miles using 11.315 gallons 45.16 Highway some A/C
Tank 5 410 miles using 9.59 gallons 42.72 Highway with some city.

Total fuel cost $185.05

Cheapest $3.57
Most costly $3.99

Total trip 2114 miles Average MPG 43.06 Computer average for trip was 44MPG

Drove from Florida to Maryland Friday left with a full tank. 95% highway at 75MPH with A/C
Tank 1 534 miles using 12.537 gallons 42.59MPG
Tank 2 384 miles using 8.877 gallons 43.26MPG

I'll post my return results when I get home.

 

[robenne]

TANK #2 on my 09 Sportwagon.

430 MILES
11.77 Gals
AC: 99.999% of time
85% City
15% Country/Interstate

36.53 MPG!