2006 TDI (BRM) Lower engine air leak

m1tk0

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 3, 2006
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI
Hi all,

I've recently acquired a used 2006 Jetta 1.9L TDI (BRM) at 355k KM for a great price.

I've noticed that there is a air leak/hissing sound during acceleration. The sound seems to be coming from the lower engine region and it is only there when I am either accelerating or revving the engine.

As such, I had the car lifted up on my ramp so I could take a look. I had some help from a friend who sat in the car to rev it while I looked and listened underneath.

I wasn’t able to pinpoint the exact location of the leak but it was above the plastic white heat shield (not sure what this is called), slightly to the left of the shield. I could feel the air being pushed out and it was also easily heard.

I've looked around the forums and it sounds like it could be something to do with the EGR. Take note that the heat shield is not oily and it seems to be in good condition.

Any input would be greatly appreciated as this noise is pretty loud under acceleration and quite annoying.

Thanks!
 
Last edited:

nord

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Location
Southern Tier NY
TDI
All turned back to VW. Now a 2017 Hundai Tuscon. Not a single squalk in 10k miles.
EGR Cooler bushing is worn. Lots of fixes here from dirt cheap to expensive. Fix it asap.
 

redbaron58p

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 5, 2009
Location
Seattle (GranolaVille)
TDI
2001 Jetta GLS
Agreed. Mine started doing the same thing a few months ago. I bought the two block off plates and elected to leave mine in place. you simply unplug the two actuators and it will not come on at all anymore.

Keep in mind, you will get a constant Check Engine light, but the car will run fine. I live where (ironically) diesel passenger cars are no longer tested for smog, so it doesn't bother me to see the light.

I also think my car runs a bit better since blocking that thing off, but that's my un-scientific opinion. I do hear that if you live in colder climates, disabling the EGR will make your car take longer to warm up. This makes sense obviously. Is it bad? Can't say, but plenty of people on here have done it.
 

Diesel126

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2009
Location
North West Nj
TDI
2013 Passat SEL TDI DSG / 2006 Jetta TDI DSG / 2011 Touareg TDI Executive
Intercooler rubber elbow piece going into the shutter valve gets worn (dry rotted) and develops cracks causing air to escape.
 

dandywriter

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2007
Location
Ottawa (Kanata), Canada, eh?
TDI
2014 Golf Wagon 6M
If you do the delete via block-off plates, you will fail Ontario Drive-Clean test when they see the CEL.

You might want to check your air filter to see if there is evidence of exhaust on it. First part of this shows how to get to the air filter. http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/air-filter-box-or-filter-replacement-mk5/

Off topic, if you want quicker heat in the winter (and I expect you will), consider getting a winter front now. http://www.idparts.com/a5-jetta-2009-sportwagen-winter-front-p-4503.html . It fits our BRMs, and fixes another whining sound (from the significant other in the passenger seat).:eek:
 

Franko6

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2005
Location
Sw Missouri
TDI
Jetta, 99, Silver`
We don't like CEL's because one you know about is covering maybe something else that is important. We have been repairing the EGR for years and it's been 100% good..no problems, no fails and no CEL's. We defeat the Butterfly valve, which leaves the valve in the 'engine warm' position.

The purpose of the valve is to help heat the engine up faster, bypassing the heat exchanger and the hot exhaust gasses go straight through to the EGR cooler. In about 2 minutes, the valve goes from 'open' to 'closed' at a water temperature of about 75c and remains that way until the car is turned off. That is all it does. When the butterfly shaft wears out, you can lose as much as 30% of your boost pressure and the engine will be underpowered.

We also suggest to check the heater hoses going to the EGR and water pipe, as they often will get oil on them and make the hoses get soft and swell. There are two versions of the hose, split month/ year is 6/2006. The water pipe changes from a steel pipe to a plastic pipe with a larger hose.

We offer a core exchange for EGR coolers in good enough condition for our purpose...$75. Customer is responsible for shipping charges. No cracks, leaks or excessive corrosion on the flanges.

We also have a helpful 'how to', as the EGR cooler has been placed in a diabolical location. It's about a 4.5 hr job...we try to make just a bit easier. Parts like special clip on gaskets and some tricks and tips help.

If you don't mind, may we have your contact information? Please send to email listed below:

Name
Physical Address
Phone Number
Year and Model of vehicle
VIN can be helpful...

And we will respond with an estimate for our BRM EGR cooler kit.

Thanks for asking,
 
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