2006 Audi A4Q Avant 2.0TFSI -> 2.0TDI (Holset edition)

nitec

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Folks,

I've been collecting parts for a while and finally pulled the plug on this project...a majority of the leg work has been done by Demon Diesel (huge thanks - read and re-read your thread many times) here:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=353866

I'm starting off with pretty much the same car as him - a 2006 Audi A4 Avant quattro 2.0TFSI 6spd. However, the engine configuration is quite different. I'm using a BEW out of a 2004 Jetta that's been stripped and rebuilt using BHW pistons for a slightly bigger displacement...full story on the engine can be found here:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=330544&page=10

Where I stand right now:

2.0T is out of the Avant and sold







BEW is built and ready to go, turbo and all hardware is in, BPW accessory bracket and wiring harness is in, transmission received new mounting hardware and shifter bushings, picked up a few SDi manifolds from the UK last week (thanks MikkiJayne) to play with, picked out the Holset He221w as the turbo of choice and Mark Malone to do the tuning (using BEW ECU that will be re-tuned to a BPW configuration)...















I`m keeping the stock injectors right now until we max them out (which I expect will happen rather quickly). Due to the manifold/turbo configuration, the EGR and ASV are removed and should be deleted from the new tune

I think this is about it for now - hoping to have the engine in the car by the end of the week and start working on the plumbing...haven't decided which way to go with the air piping yet - I could use one or both of the stock intercoolers depending on which manifold I pick in the end...
 
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nitec

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engine's in...
the transmission got a new set of shifter bushings and a new bottom mount bushing







did a bit of bay clean up:




after:


took a while to wiggle it in...


was wondering what to plug the original oil return line - found a Volvo M18x1.5 oil pan plug that fits right in :)
 

nitec

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BPW harness and BEW ECU in





oh and figured out why my washer fluid is constantly leaking out on my driveway...

DAYM!



got everything wired up, but my Flashzilla and my Vag-Com don't recognize the ECU...I`ll contact Malone to see if he can think of something - I didn't think there's any difference between the BEW, BHW or BPW ECUs from a hardware point of view...I was expecting the BEW will at least get recognized and the IMMO would kick in...will have to follow up on that

the turbo needs to be clocked up and a few oil lines and coolant lines made up - depending on the ECU issue I`m hoping to start this up by mid April

this is where it is today

 
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nitec

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following up on the ECU issues...I went ahead and sourced out a BPW ECU and it's on its way over from EU...in the mean time Mark suggested I can get the BEW ECU sorted out on the bench if the B7 is having issues with the K-line...
I pulled out the wiring diagrams to figure out what's going on...
here's the BEW pinout for the K-line/CAN



3,5,6,18 : +12V ( term.30 )
1,2,4 : GND ( term. 31 )
72 : K Line
89 : CAN High
66 : CAN Low

I thought the B7 would be identical considering the plug is compatible however the BPG harness uses

3,5,6,18 : +12V ( term.30 )
1,2,4 : GND ( term. 31 )
86 : K Line
68 : CAN High
67 : CAN Low

The K-line coming from the cluster/ECU is wired to the OBD plug at pin 7 so that should work fine

Basically what I want to do now is re-pin the BPW harness for the BEW ECU and see if that fixes my no ECU response problem...the power pins are consistent between the two harnesses...
 
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nitec

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mmm this was a productive day :)

the BPW harness does not need to be modified in any way - all the lines are exactly where they need to be to match up with the BEW ECU...I checked the wiring again and discovered one of the power lines wasn't hooked up well...

BEW ECU in a B7 A4 using BPW harness



downloaded the file with FlashZilla and sent it over to Mark so he can do his magic

here's what else got done today :)



tackled the turbo and the intake







it's a little tight with the SDi manifold...it doesn't need much so I think an extra T25 flange and some longer bolts will sort us right out...

 

nitec

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can't remember what this came from but it looks like it was made for the job





hooked up most of the wiring and did most of the coolant and boost lines...gotta get the turbo oil lines made up so I can fill the system up and fire up as soon as Mark gets my IMMO off
 

nitec

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started thinking about the fueling...I have the BEW filter etc but thinking of upgrading - there's plenty of room in the bay for a nice setup...
how about something like this?



with a universal filter head to allow for spin-on CAT or MANN filters at 2 micron...you can also see the water separator there

here's a quick list of parts:

Fuel Filter Bases and Filters

Wix Filter Base 24770 Or Napa FIL4770 This is the one I used

2 micron fuel filters all interchangeable (threads 1-14 UNS-2B)
Caterpillar Filter 1R-0750
Fleetguard FF5320
Donaldson P551313
Baldwin BF7633 (BF7587, Long Version)
Wix 33528 Or Napa FIL3528 This is the one I used
Luber-Finer LFF3347
ACDelco TP1326
Purolator F65213
Hastings FF1079 (FF1056, Long Version)

Water Fuel separator mounts and filters
Filter Heads (1-12" Thread)
Perma-Cool 81794 High Flow Filter Head (1/2 NPT Inlet / Outlet)
Perma-Cool 81074 Fuel Filter/Water Separator Kit (1/2 NPT Inlet / Outlet)
Perma-Cool 88864 High Performance Filter Head (3/4" NPT Inlet / Outlet)
Fleetguard 142784S (1/2 NPT Inlet / Outlet)

Wix Filter Base 24309 Or NAPA FIL4309 This is the one I used

Fuel/Water Filters

Wix 33123 short 6” filter with drain and Wix 33418 for the 9” long one Both are 12micron filters. This is the one I used
the only thing I can see is the thermo T that the TDis use...
 

Demon Diesel

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2007 Audi A4 Quattro Avant 2.0TDI 6spd manual
Finally we have another one of these and less than 1/2 a tank away! :)

I'm not surprised by the ECU issues you've had. Not all EDC16s are the same. Not even all EDC16U31. They can vary in internal parts (resistors,.... and what not). I started to do a detailed compare between the BPW and BHW ecu (which is close to the BEW) and noticed the resistor changes. BPW software can't be flashed by FlashZilla. I went down a long road with this and after dealing directly with the manufacture realized that it was just not supported. Things may have changed now as this was 2 years ago or so. If you're using BPW harness keep an eye on the 6 throttle pedal wires. 2 of them are on the wrong pins for the BEW ECU. You may also have some throttle pedal codes even after changing the wires around because the B7s use a newer throttle type. Keep me posted on your BEW ECU progress. I gave up way to early because I could see some key differences but I may be worth it. BPW ECU will bring up a whole new list of issues but does work.

Based on the speed of your progress I need to get in gear and start some of my upgrades. Should have my GTB2056 and Euro transmission in this summer. We'll have to meet up at some point. We may have the only two B7 TDIs in North America. :)

BTW, where did you pick up your shifter bushing kit?
 

nitec

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oh yeah - I`ll have a look at the throttle pedal to make sure we're good...worst case scenario I`m pretty sure I still have the BEW pedal as well...

the shifter bushing "kit" came from ECS...I`m not sure you really need to buy their kit - there was only 1 really needed piece in there and you could probably just pick it up from the dealer...my shifter ball (on the tranny side) didn't have a lick of grease on it and was rusting up...basically it was loose inside the plastic joint...I swapped with the new joint and packed it in with grease - feels a little better now...for best results I'd be swapping the shifter itself but that's down the road
 

nitec

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working on the oil/fuel/coolant hookups to finish this off while waiting for Mark Malone...

decided to try something a little different...I've got a 1.8T hard coolant line which plugs directly into the heater core plastic plugs left over from the 2.0t...unfortunately it goes right through the oil filter housing...I found my 1.8T oil filter housing and remembered that my old 2.0 8V uses a plastic cap for the housing to close off the PCV vent like so:



this puts the filter under the cooler and also allows me to use some of the bigger screw on filter canisters like the WIX 51333/Napa 1333/MANN 950/04

I`ll check the fitment of the setup tonight - there shouldn't be any issues with fitment as that's a standard longitudinal setup but we`ll see...the 1.8t housing uses a slightly different turbo feed route so I`ll finalize that before I get the turbo lines made up...

unfortunately I missed the parts deadline today so won't have them for this weekend :(
 

ptcz

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GTA
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2011 Egg TDI
nitec, when can i send you my 07 A4 for the same operation? 250hp please
 

Windex

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Cambridge
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05 B5V 01E FRF
Nice swap - are you using the stock transmission? What are you doing for AC compressor?

What clutch? Spacer plate? Starter?
 

nitec

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good questions - I've answered all of them in the engine build thread referenced above and didn't want to drop all the pics here as well but maybe that's a good idea...

in any case:

Transmission: stock B7 2.0T 6spd - I see no need to upgrade the transmission considering what the BEW comes bolted to in the MK4...the B7 is well within those ranges with the 6th gear and I barely do any highway mileage where it may matter for that extra 0.5l/100km in savings

AC compressor: stock B7 clutchless unit - the BPW accessory bracket allows me to run that compressor without any issues

Clutch: Valeo 228mm SMFW kit for a 1.8T...unfortunately it's 228mm but nobody makes a reasonable 240mm kit yet and using one screws me up with the starter anyways. No spacer plate - I measured up the B5 and B7 transmissions and everything looked to be the same...didn't seem to run any interferences, the shaft interfaced with the pilot bearing with no issues...I`ll have to start driving it before I can give some actual feedback though

Starter: stock BHW unit (hence the 228mm clutch)



a few other points:

- Passenger side B7 engine mount didn't work on the BEW - had to use an older B5 mount I had

- B5 oil pan doesn't have provisions for the B7 front mount. On the B5, the bushing is mounted to the rad support, while in the B7 it's mounted to the oil pan...looking at Demon Diesel's swap - the BHW oil pan can accept both setups so I`m sure I`ll have to swap oil pans very quickly...I've left it as is for now but expect some vibration due to the lack of front damper right now...

- I`ll make a list of all part numbers I used to get this going so people can use it in the future...

hmmm...still waiting to hear from Malone...I would like to start this next weekend so hopefully he can sort the ECU out by then

oh - here's a question for you folks...what coolant temperature sensor is this supposed to run? I can't seem to find a 4 pin plug for the green top sensor used on the BEW in my BPW harness...also - judging from the locations of the cam and crank sensor plugs on the harness I'd say a few of them are different between the BEW and BHW...even the MAP sensor plug is located super close to the firewall and will need to be extended...
 
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JFettig

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B5 Passat, 2010 Jetta
How is nobody aware that Whitbread has a 240mm longitudinal clutch setup for sale? I have one in my Passat and its chugging along happily. It works with the BHW starter too.
 

nitec

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How is nobody aware that Whitbread has a 240mm longitudinal clutch setup for sale? I have one in my Passat and its chugging along happily. It works with the BHW starter too.
to be honest I didn't even bother looking...the 228mm kit was a good deal so I just went with it...not sure if the extra 12mm of clutch will really make that much of a difference

today was a filter/turbo day...got myself some Wix/Cummins fuel filter heads to play with



2micron Fleetguard - the equivalent of the Cat 1R0750 for Industrial and Cummins engines



now where can I put it?





or I can perhaps use the VW designed large filter mounting location which also doubles as a EGR blocking plate lol



next is the oil filter...I was hoping to use the 1.8T filter bracket but it won't work



shoot...I wanted to use a proper manly oil filter like the Mann 950/04



with the 1.8T bracket



but it won't work with the TDi bracket...the small one would though



this would increase the oil capacity of the engine which is pretty good...alternatively I could get rid of the oil cooler and replace it with a front-mount air cooler



unfortunately this means I can't use the 1.8T lower coolant pipe because it runs into the TDi filter housing...anybody know if there is a bottom mount filter bracket I can use with the TDi engine?
 
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nitec

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next was the turbo mounting...as I was saying it's a little tight with the SDi manifold...I think the easiest would be an extra T25 flange to push it out a little...I wanted to try using the T3 manifold with a T3-T25 adapter before I order an extra flange



unfortunately this puts the turbo a little too close to the frame rail and the exhaust would be going through the tire well so no go :(



T25 flange it is...
 

nitec

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had to freeze the turbo location so I can get the oil lines made up...pulled the plug on the SDi manifold for now - I have a spare BEW head so I`ll mock everything up on the bench before moving it on the car...

for now I`ll use this manifold





does anybody know what blocking plate to use for this? the EGR port size is the same with the SDi manifold but it's smaller than the BEW one

this is a good spot for the fuel filter that allows me to use the stock feed...gotta make a bracket to mount it but that shouldn't be difficult...I think the stock filter is in the same spot so that makes things nice and clean



also finished up both rad coolant lines and installed the oil filter bracket back on with the additional 1.8T filter...figured an extra filter can't hurt but will still try and get that Mann big boy on there...

still left to do before starting:

- turbo oil lines
- compressor inlet to MAF to filter setup
- compressor outlet to IC
- lower coolant line / heater core hookups
- ECU tune

pretty certain everything other than the tune will be taken care of by mid week...Mark's gotta be pretty busy - pretty slow on the replies unfortunately
 
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JFettig

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B5 Passat, 2010 Jetta
That extra 12mm of clutch makes a huge difference :)

You might have issues getting over 300ft-lbs with that clutch, with a ceramic disk and SBC SS 228mm pressure plate I had issues holding 380ft-lbs, now I'm running a 240mm with FX400 pressure plate and ceramic disk - probably won't ever seen the limit of that one.
 

nitec

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had to do a sprinter engine swap before I was allowed to play with the TDi :)





fortunately this was pretty straight forward so got some work done on the Audi as well..

mounted the Fleetguard



turbo oil feed and drain lines are made and installed



way overkill for what I need...at least the design is done so next ones will use aluminum fittings etc..

drained the fuel, routed all fuel lines, finished the boost pipes (worked out nicer than I thought actually)



waiting on my ECU and BHW oil pan to crank this up...the BEW cam sensor and 2.0T MAP sensors don't match up so I`ll have to pick up a BHW sensor and extend the MAP lines...

oh - this might help feed the turbo :)

 

adphil

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montreal
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2006 a4 b7 quattro bhw swapped, 2003 lifted Jetta Wagon Alh , 1983 mercedes om 617 4speed manual
Im anxiously awaiting my flashed bhw computer to finish my own b7 Tdi swap , will definitely follow this thread , subscribed !
 

nitec

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been an interesting few days...

my 1.8t (B5) oil pan didn't have provisions for the front engine mount so I picked up a BHW pan from a fellow TDiclub member before putting oil in the system to avoid the extra work down the road (lesson learned: 1.8t/2.0t pans post 2002 have the provisions if the BHW pan is hard to come by)...then spent 4 hours under the car taking the old pan out and putting the new pan in (what a pain in the butt especially with no car hoist), buttoned everything up, unhooked the crank sensor and started cranking the engine so I can prime the turbo oil feed line...well after a few minutes it became apparent that there's no oil coming in...at all...period :(

***? I've never had a problem like this...took everything I could think of apart, even poured oil in the filter housing to see if that would help but no dice...the only thing I could think of was the oil pump was somehow not spinning (chain off, sprocket off) or the intake or another part was clogged...for the second time in a week I jacked the engine up and spent another few hours (a little easier the second time around lol) taking the pan off to inspect for problems...

took the pump off, checked everything - pump was as good as new...hooked her up to a drill, put her in some oil and this thing shot oil 2 ft up...so once again - ***? mounted everything back up and decided to try it out before closing the pan off again...shorted the starter from under the car while holding a little bowl of oil under the syphon and it took everything in...closed the pan, put the oil back in cranked her up - oil coming up with no issues...

sigh...the only thing I can think of is the pump needed to be primed up...since this was a complete rebuild there was no oil in any of the enging passages or the oil filter housing so the only thing I can think of is the pump was dry and couldn't hook on the oil and bleed the passages out...once the oil is lifted over the pump it doesn't seem to leak back down so I guess when we change the engine oil there's always oil left above the pump to help is start up again...or maybe I'm completely out to lunch - either way I`m pretty sure I spent 10 hours fixing a ghost problem...

on we go...I still haven't heard back from Malone...I contacted Kerma and got an answer right away - they can sort me out but they can't use the FlashZilla I purchased from Mark to flash my file - I have to buy their own programmer (sigh...of course)...I`m gonna hold off another week or so while sorting out the little things left to fix and after that I`m switching over....really hoping I wouldn't have to

thanks to Demon Diesel the ECU IMMO is off and I was hoping I'd be able to start the engine (although expecting rough idle due to everything unhooked)...anyways - started cranking after I sorted out the oil issues and noticed that my fuel pump doesn't start...decided not to chase the wiring so did a manual intervention on the pump and primed the fuel system...cranked the car over and it started pretty much right away but then died immediately...did that another 10-15 times thinking there was some air in the fuel system but it's looking like the ECU is shutting the engine off on purpose...here are the codes I get

Sunday,26,April,2015,07:13:48:21461

Address 01: Engine
Control Module Part Number: 038 997 016 L
Component and/or Version: R4 1,9L EDC G000SG 3791
Software Coding: 0150031
Work Shop Code: WSC 93239
8 Faults Found

17524 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S1: Open Circuit
P1116 - 000 - -
19558 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): No Signal
P3102 - 000 - -
18996 - Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor Circuit: Signal too Low
P2564 - 000 - -
17903 - Switch-Over Valve for EGR Cooler (N345): Open or Short to Ground
P1495 - 000 - -
19829 - Intake Manifold Change-Over Valve: Open or Short to Ground
P3373 - 000 - -
16627 - Solenoid Valve (A) for Boost Pressure Control (N75): Malfunction
P0243 - 000 - -
19557 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): Open or Short to Ground
P3101 - 000 - -
16610 - Throttle Pedal Position Sensor (G79): Implausible Signal
P0226 - 000 - - - Intermittent

I expected every single one of these codes but didn't expect that any of them would shut the car off (on the 1.8ts all you need is the crank and cam sensors to get the car running)...I`ll sort the throttle today (two pins are reversed I believe) and will try to fix the fuel pump - everything else needs to be turned off with the tune because none of these parts are actually on the car...

so here's what's left:

- fuel pump wiring
- get a BHW cam sensor (BEW one is too short)
- extend MAP sensor wires
- compressor inlet and MAF hookup
- compressor discharge hookup to the ICs
- WG mounting
- intake manifold EGR block off plate
- new engine mounts (driver side is leaking oil)
- downpipe and O2 sensor (2 sensors right? the upstream one with 6 pins and the downstream one with 2?)
- button up all the drive shafts and shifter
- tune, tune, tune...who would have thought this would be an issue
- go for a drive...

starting up my dad's E300 today so hopefully that's the last engine build I have to finish before sorting this thing out...

oh - been thinking about the fuel return line...my fuel filter has an additional inlet so I think I`ll route the return line back to the filter through a check valve to prevent the tank pump from pushing fuel up the return...what do you guys think? would save me from getting return lines back to the tank
 
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nitec

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Car made it out of the garage on its own today :)

https://youtu.be/l4Ixb_vmOZ8

A few things left to tackle:

Fuel - gotta finalize the return line...current plan is to use the second inlet into the fuel filter housing with a check valve...I left the 2.0T fuel pump and that seems to work fine with the high pressure pump, but it is moving a lot of fuel - the 20L jerry can gets filled up with the return fuel within about 15 min...can't think of a negative side of this - I really want to avoid routing a return line to the back...

Ignition - CAM sensor is not working right now...the BEW CAM takes in a 12V through a fuse...I`m getting CAM signal errors (why the engine wasn't starting in the first place) so I`ll have to check what the BPW harness is feeding in on pin 1...other than that I`m using the BEW MAP and MAF sensors for now and everything else is deleted through the Malone tune

Coolant glow plugs - the BEW has them, the BPW doesn't - must delete through the tune...the glow plug light is screaming at me right now

Exhaust - gotta get a v-band flange to match the Holset and find a good catalytic...stock one might be a little too restrictive...going to run the OEM O2 sensor before the cat

other than that - the clutch feels good, the engine is solid and there's no vibrations at idle...I`m happy :)
 

Demon Diesel

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Ontario
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2007 Audi A4 Quattro Avant 2.0TDI 6spd manual
Sorry for getting back to you so late.

BPW Hall Sender
Pin 1 Red/White to ECU T60/27
Pin 2 Purple/Blue to ECU T60/28
Pin 3 Red/Purple to ECU T60/12

BHW is the same. Not sure about BEW but I would imagine it would be the same too. Maybe something else is going on with the camshaft sensor. Not sure you can clock the cam sprocket off but I would check as well as check that it's the right one. BRM uses a different cam pickup wheel I think.

FYI BPW did have "coolant heaters" but it was actually a cabin heater installed under the dash. I managed to set this up in mine and it does work well. Basically the ECU checks for the resistance on the two wires triggering the relays. The GPs themselves are not needed or just get Malone to code it out.

Chances are the GP light is flashing because of the cam sensor or some other sensor missing/not working. Unlikely it is the coolant GPs themselves. I didn't have mine installed for the longest time and it only triggered two DTCs (one for low and one for high).
 

nitec

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BPW Hall Sender
Pin 1 Red/White to ECU T60/27
Pin 2 Purple/Blue to ECU T60/28
Pin 3 Red/Purple to ECU T60/12
yeah there it is...the BEW Pin 1 is wired to a 10A fuse along with every other sensor out there including the air intake flap (ASV)...T60/27 is not used on the BEW as far as I can tell

I wonder if I can find a spare pin on T60 that will feed me power...I`ll see where the other sensors are powered from
 

Demon Diesel

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2007 Audi A4 Quattro Avant 2.0TDI 6spd manual
Hmm. interesting. If I'm not mistaken you are using a BHW sensor, BPW harness and BEW ecu? This would likely mean there is either a hardware difference between BEW and BHW ecus or this is something set in software. I'v repurposed BEW ecus before and I don't recall this issue so iI'm thinking software. Try T60/27 as you said and we'll see.
 

nitec

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here's the update on the CAM sensor...

the BEW wiring has a 12V signal going into Pin 1 through a fuse...the BHW/BPW harness has T60/27 feeding Pin 1 with a 5V signal...I gave Pin 1 12V manually but the ECU continues to complain about the CAM sensor...with it plugged the car doesn't start - I`m fairly certain the timing is done right so don't think the cam marks are the problem but who knows...

in the meantime I got the MAP sensor wired in so got rid of a few codes...here's what's letf:

19463 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40): No Signal
P3007 - 000 - - - Intermittent
17524 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S1: Open Circuit
P1116 - 000 - -
19460 - Relay for Low-Output Preheating of Coolant (J359): Open or Short to Ground
P3004 - 000 - -
19462 - Relay for High-Output Preheating of Coolant (J360): Open or Short to Ground
P3006 - 000 - -
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low
P0102 - 000 - -
18080 - Coolant Fan Control 1: Open or Short to Ground
P1672 - 000 - -

I`ll try and get Malone to delete the coolant heater codes but the MAF code doesn't make much sense...I`m using the stock BEW MAF and it seems to measure fine so not sure what the problem is...

interestingly before I hooked up the MAP sensor, the car wouldn't rev past 3k rpm but today it was happily going over that...only thing left to do before I go for a drive is get the fuel return line hooked up...I`m picking up a check valve tomorrow so should have this done for the weekend...
 
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