Looking for some more help. 2004 BEW tdi has intermittent starting problem. Can be when warm or cold, sometimes it cranks longer then sputters like it’s not running on all cylinders then runs fine after a few seconds sometimes it just cranks and doesn’t start and most of the time it starts right up. Once it’s started it runs perfectly fine. I drive about a hour commute to and from school then to work and home every day. I have tried changing the Mass air flow sensor the crankshaft position sensor, has a new lift pump as of a month ago, replaced most of the seals on the intake tubes, replaced rubber fuel lines, new fuel temp sensor and have a camshaft position sensor that’s supposed to be here Wednesday to put in it. Today it would not start, and I tried a little bit of starting fluid (I know most will say it’s bad but it’s what I had to do) with that it fired right up and ran fine. The only codes are from the EGR that has been deleted and a Mass air flow sensor code still (scanned with vcds). The only other thing I can think of would the tandem pump any other ideas?
2004 BEW intermittent starting issue
- Thread starter cramer1
- Start date
Tdijarhead
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2013
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- Lawrenceville PA
- TDI
- 2003 TDI Jetta Daughters Car, 2001 TDI Beetle, Wife’s car, 2005 Golf TDI Mine, all 5 spds
Have you changed the fuel filter, I don’t see that listed? Have you scanned for codes with vcds?
I will look into that thank you
I forgot to list it but yes I put put a new filter in when it first started having issues, had no change then a 2 weeks ago thought I would change it again just to see. I did scan the codes with vcds nothing more then my mass air flow code and the EGR code.
BobnOH
not-a-mechanic
You're sure the glow plugs are doing their thing.?
P2B
Top Post Dawg
So that would be... yes.
The glow plugs all get power and each one ohms out what looks right and no codes for them. It’s not just a cold start issue the car can sit for 2 minutes sometimes and then have a hard start where I wonder if it might not start.
That's what mine did. Very annoying, somewhat embarassing! After driving some distance and shutting off, sometimes an immediate start, most times several seconds of cranking before firing.
I did everything mentioned in my post above, but it wasn't until I replaced the 7-year-old battery that it went back to darned near immediate starts all the time.
The battery had tested OK with an inexpensive load tester (low, but in the green), but I knew its capacity had diminished -- where I used to be able to run the radio for an hour or more while working in a hangar, it had recently gotten to the point where there wasn't enough juice to run the starter after 30-40 minutes of running the radio -- so I went ahead and replaced it. Suddenly it was back to "normal" starting.
Prior to that I had replaced both pos and neg cables and cleaned all grounds under the battery tray, which helped, but in my case it seems it was mostly the battery.
I did everything mentioned in my post above, but it wasn't until I replaced the 7-year-old battery that it went back to darned near immediate starts all the time.
The battery had tested OK with an inexpensive load tester (low, but in the green), but I knew its capacity had diminished -- where I used to be able to run the radio for an hour or more while working in a hangar, it had recently gotten to the point where there wasn't enough juice to run the starter after 30-40 minutes of running the radio -- so I went ahead and replaced it. Suddenly it was back to "normal" starting.
Prior to that I had replaced both pos and neg cables and cleaned all grounds under the battery tray, which helped, but in my case it seems it was mostly the battery.
I put the new cam sensor in today and checked codes with vcds. Nothing new. But I did see something interesting/concerning. Torsion value with the old sensor would stay right around 0 and with the new sensor is -6.9. Could this be causing my issue or is this an issue with the new sensor? The old sensor only ever threw a code once but when erased never came back. No code for the new one.
Mozambiquer
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You'll need to adjust your timing now, the default is zero if the sensor is failed.
Franko6
Vendor , w/Business number
When you do get it running, try this little trick. Wiggle the crank sensor wire and see if you can get it to stall. Many of the OEM crank sensors have what one of my electrical wiring gurus describes as "Bio-degradable wiring insulation". Another GREAT Chinese invention! There are four wires inside the protective sheath and sometimes, inside all you have are multi-colored worms, what used to be the individual wiring insulation. Be somewhere you can leave it, if that turns out to be the fault. By wiggling the wire, you may make the fault more permanent. I have BEW crank sensors in stock.
Otherwise, the most common fault is a leakdown of fuel siphoning back to the tank from the tandem pump or it's gasket. This is not as likely, as this would be a 'first start of the day' problem.
Make sure you can hear your in-tank pump running each time you turn the key on, you should hear a 3 second noise of the pump surging the fuel.
Next, compression. Otherwise, cranking speed. An engine whose starter runs slow is a hard-starting engine. Bad solenoid. Weak battery. I have charged a battery 4 days to get it to completely charge.
Good Luck.
Otherwise, the most common fault is a leakdown of fuel siphoning back to the tank from the tandem pump or it's gasket. This is not as likely, as this would be a 'first start of the day' problem.
Make sure you can hear your in-tank pump running each time you turn the key on, you should hear a 3 second noise of the pump surging the fuel.
Next, compression. Otherwise, cranking speed. An engine whose starter runs slow is a hard-starting engine. Bad solenoid. Weak battery. I have charged a battery 4 days to get it to completely charge.
Good Luck.
wonneber
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- Oct 12, 2011
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- TDI
- 2014 Jetta Sportwagon,2003 Jetta 261K Sold but not forgotten
When it doesn't start and before shutting the key off try scanning for codes.
Some codes get cleared when you shut the key off.
Long shot anyway.
P2B
Top Post Dawg
Nonsense