Recently I replaced the following:
The only suspension part in the front that is from 2003 is the Sway bar end links. I guess I could disconnect them and see if it goes away.
- 10/24/2019 - Front Lower Control Arms and outer ball joint.
- 6/23/2019 - Inner and Outer Tie Rods
- 1/5/2017 - Bilstein Struts, Strut Rubber Mount, Strut Bearing.
You're talking about the sway bar link right? That's what it looks like to me...visible play.If you look at the video and watch the upper small dog bone link you can see the movement is in time with the noise....just my .02.
Thanks - We purchased it new in July 2003. I have done all of the service on the Jetta, except tires and alignments over the past 17 years. It has 193k miles. I was thinking the same thing in trying to carefully feeling for the vibrations as someone moves the suspension.Very carefully without hurting yourself if you have someone else push up and down on the car put your hands on the items which were suggested to feel the clunk
That is one clean car
You're talking about the sway bar link right? That's what it looks like to me...visible play.
I would verify that upper joint is tightened first, then re test.
But since it looks like the track bar is physically moving, I would undo that upper sway bar connection and look at the sway bar bolt hole...it could be ovalized. Everything about that connection looks off, just from the video
I will focus on the lower control arm bolts (as it was the last thing I serviced) as well as sway end links. As I wrote last night, the sway bay end links are the only original "wearable" parts left on the front suspension. I did the sway bar bushings when I did the struts in 2017. (Correction - did these Oct 2019.)Yes I agree with csstevej that’s a noise is coming from the swaybar link I’ll would put some wrenches on to see if that bolts are tight enough
That video this a different story. If the sway bar bushing was bad, you would see the sway bar movement "lag" if you will, behind the frame movement. It looks to me like the sway bar is moving in time with the frame and the only visible movement is at the upper sway bar end link joint. I recently just changed out my end links. They were original from 2002 and they were still in fine shape.I had a clunk years ago and replaced my swaybar frame mounts with poly. Still going strong over 12 years later.
The originals were replaced at 3 years of age and failed again with clunking 3 years later. I figured poly would be better and last longer and I was right. I did nothing for the swaybar link ends. They are still rubber.
No - Just reduced the size of each of the photos and replaced the much larger ones in my TDI Photo Gallery. I would have been very disappointed if the Strut Mounts had failed. The gap is still well within allowable limits.From the video it looks like that sway link top bushing is moving around.
Thanks for downsizing those pics. Did you have a different pic on top originally? I could have sworn I was looking at a slightly different view of the strut top and the gap was more than I see in the current picture.
Yeah that strut gap is fine. I did a suspension refresh a few months ago, with new EVERYTHING, and my gap on my Golf is that or larger. Completed with quality parts from a few of our goto vendors. No ill effects.No - Just reduced the size of each of the photos and replaced the much larger ones in my TDI Photo Gallery. I would have been very disappointed if the Strut Mounts had failed. The gap is still well within allowable limits.
Check the fasteners on the ball joint to control arm: in the video it looks like there is some play.
I noticed that as well when I re-watched my videos over lunch.Good call on that too, I couldn't see that until I viewed the video on a computer
They come installed as I purchased the same set, but I also torqued mine to spec to double check.I noticed that as well when I re-watched my videos over lunch.
I purchased the lower control arms with TT Bushings, and I am trying to remember if the lower ball joints came already attached.
I typically double check every nut and bolt to make sire they are tightened to factory spec, but maybe I missed these.
Yes the 1/4 turn is where you are going to get the proper "stretch" of the TTY bolts, if they are in fact that in that location. 1/4 turn will gain you a LOT more torque than you think is possible. Even 15 ft-lb should be "snug" enough that the rocking/noise would go away if that's where the issue is. That clanking is from something that's completely loose (ie there is no clamping load on the component)This was really bothering me, so I went out and jacked up that side of the car and put my torque wrench on those three bolts.
I set it to 15ft-lbs, figuring if they were lose I would tighten them and then do the 1/4 turn.
All three immediately clicked as already being "tight".
15ft-lbs does not seem very tight, but I guess the 1/4 turn is quite a bit.
I was unable to flex the suspension as my helper (wife) was not home at the time.
I will get back to this after 5PM EST.