2003 Jetta Wagon Turbo Question

frenchy2

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Location
Central Valley, CA
TDI
1999 New Beetle TDI (Stinker)
I've had my wagon since 2019, bought it from my mechanic. I recently had my timing belt done by. my mechanic and it drove fine for about a day. Next day. I got in to run some errands and no power in 1st/2nd gear, finally getting some turbo when shifting into 3rd gear. My mechanic says the turbo needs to be replaced. I have had many VW diesels/turbodiesels in my lifetime and never had turbo problems. Car has 210,000 miles on it and I bought it from my mechanic when it had 185,000 miles. Now my mechanic says it's not worth it to fix it and I should sell it as-is. I don't drive it much at this time and have other vehicles to drive, but it's handy when I do go in the office or parking at public transit and I just like driving a diesel. Seems to me I should fix so if I do sell it then it's a complete car and not a mechanic's special and I talked it over with my husband and he agrees, thinks we should fix. Timing belt and water pump set me back around $1700. I plan on getting a turbo at ID parts. However, I'm curious what others think?
 

mittzlepick

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2001
Location
union maine
TDI
2004 jetta wagon (365k)2001 wagon tire burner 6spd 2003 wagon(417k)
If it's a California car yes.
But his prices for service seem high .
 

JDSwan87

Black Swamp Thing
Joined
Feb 9, 2014
Location
Michigan near Toledo
TDI
2001 Jetta TDI, 5 speed Lagoon Blue Metallic(sold); 2005 Jetta TDI Wagon auto
Could be turbo
Could be a loose boost pipe
Could be failing N75 valve
Could be failed vacuum line
Could be lots of things
I've seen (read about) more turbos pulled off MK4's for upgrades than I have failed units.
 

CanadianALH

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2023
Location
Canada
TDI
2002 Jetta 5spd 2006 Jetta DSG (wifes)
My turbo has 285k miles on it and it works like a charm. It will be replaced in the fall as I will be going to a bigger one. I would look at all the things listed above along with your vac pump making sure it’s not leaking like crazy either. Lots of awesome trouble shooting guides on this site.
 

BobnOH

not-a-mechanic
Joined
May 29, 2004
Location
central Ohio
TDI
New Beetle 2003 manual
UseJDswan's list, add check actuator operation before you spring for new turbo
 

frenchy2

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Location
Central Valley, CA
TDI
1999 New Beetle TDI (Stinker)
Thanks all. I'll check all of this before buying a turbo. I think N75 valve replaced lately but I need to check. I'm not much of a mechanic but I can do a few things; time is my biggest problem as my husband is fully disabled and I'm his caretaker plus work full time. I'm suspicious of the vacuum lines among other things on the aforementioned lists. It's weird it started within 48 hours of picking it up after the timing belt replacement and I didn't even drive much, maybe 30 miles total, local city driving for errands. Honestly I think my mechanic doesn't want to do any of this troubleshooting or replace the turbo if it comes to that but where I live in Central California there aren't many shops at all that work on TDIs. I'm surrounded by Teslas lol :)
 

JDSwan87

Black Swamp Thing
Joined
Feb 9, 2014
Location
Michigan near Toledo
TDI
2001 Jetta TDI, 5 speed Lagoon Blue Metallic(sold); 2005 Jetta TDI Wagon auto
For the vacuum lines, I suggest the IDPARTS kit. Then replace the lines 1 at a time.
 

shoebear

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2002
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
TDI
1998 Jetta, 2003 Jetta Wagon, 2005 New Beetle, 2013 Sportwagen
The turbo is controlled via vacuum. Whenever you have a turbo problem, you should validate the vacuum system first. Then verify that the turbo responds properly to the vacuum. The symptoms you describe don't seem like a failed turbo to me; although it could be carbon buildup on the control vanes.

The 2nd turbo on my 2003 wagon failed after 185K miles. The first one failed at 188K miles. Some turbos last longer, others do not.

A quick and dirty check to see if you have a vacuum leak: with the car idling, put your foot on the brake, then turn off the car. If the brake pedal rises after a few seconds, you have a leak. If you do, the first thing to check is the large vacuum hose that leads from the vacuum pump to the brake booster. You will probably need to remove the hose to check it.

How much detail do you want? And do you have a mityvac or equivalent? I'm happy to walk you through step by step if you want, but I'm not sure how much you want to do yourself. I would also be happy to go over the process with your mechanic, if he wants.
 

shoebear

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2002
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
TDI
1998 Jetta, 2003 Jetta Wagon, 2005 New Beetle, 2013 Sportwagen
One other thought, with this problem being right on the heels of a TB job...

I would have your mechanic verify the both mechanical and fuel pump timings before you do anything else. Perhaps the tensioner slipped and your TB jumped a tooth. Does the car start readily and sound normal at idle or driving?
 
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