2003 Jetta Needs a New Clutch

[copatdir6]

I've got a 2003 Jetta TDI with the OEM clutch that is slipping in 5th and 4th gear under heavy acceleration.

It's got a little over 150k miles on it and I figure it's due for a clutch replacement. I do have RCII upgrade on the computer and I do tow with it a good number of times throughout the summer so I'm looking for:

1. Suggestions on a good clutch that will handle the extra 'work'
2. a trusted VW mechanic who will be willing to do this for me

I live in NW PA and am willing to travel for the right mechanic.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Steve-o]

Suggestion: Search is your friend. Search in this forum for "clutch" and "towing" and you'll find a bunch of threads discussing which clutches can and can't handle the load and the advantages and drawbacks of all of them. Since the engine on my TDI is bone-stock and I don't tow anything, I have no recommendations.

There also is a sticky thread in the TDI 101 forum about trusted mechanics throughout the U.S. You'll be able to find someone who can handle the swap as well as info on how to contact them, whether they're accepting work right now, etc.

FWIW clutch replacement should not require a guru. VW has sold millions of A4s so many techs should have experience replacing their clutches. I went to a VW specialist when I did mine because I've had long positive experience with them, had other TDI-specific work I wanted done, and wanted to replace my OEM clutch with an aftermarket item (some techs will only fix with OEM parts). But if all I needed was the clutch, I wouldn't have had a qualm about finding a good tech who was closer.

 

[eddieleephd]

Definitely always do a search for things like this, however, I find that if you use google you may get better results.

clutch site: forums.tdiclub.com

replace the word clutch with any term you want and Google will search only the site listed at the end.
Replace the site at the end to search any site desired.

That being said I find with any manual trans that good after market clutch pads are desired.

When it comes to towing and power mods it always comes back to the pressure plate you choose.

The pressure plate applies pressure to the clutch pad and is often the issue when a clutch starts slipping!
I always recommend replacing the pressure plate and throw out bearing when changing the clutch out.

 

[nkgagne]

It depends on what you're after. Based on the tune and towing, a heavy-duty replacement should likely be employed. South-bend Stage 2, either Daily or Endurance. I take it the Endurance is a bit less gentle on engagement, but lasts a little longer. I have the Daily and it's been great.

Then your next decision is flywheel type and weight. DMF is smoother and quieter, but has the potential to self-destruct well before the clutch does. SMF is far more simple and durable, and comes in a few different weights, but can be noisier (especially in neutral idling at a red light). As far as weight, everybody will tell you to go heavy (21-22 lb), and that is best for keeping smooth and quiet, but I hate the feel of a heavy engine that won't rev. I went for 14 lb, and it actually is very liveable, and makes the engine feel closer to a spritely gasser. It must be noted, though, that it does come with a noise penalty. There is noticeable gear rattle in neutral and the gruff growl of the diesel comes out far more at 2/3 throttle or more. I don't mind this one bit, but I recognize it's not for everyone.

When you go heavy duty, you have to make sure you don't sit at red lights in 1 with the clutch in, because the heavy duty pressure plate will transfer more load to the thrust bearings of the crankshaft. You should instead use neutral with the clutch out.

 

[copatdir6]

Thanks for all the input guys. This is going to be something I'll need done in the next 2-3 months so I've got some time to research. Any time I have to replace parts it just gives me the excuse to put so something in that is better quality than OEM (if possible) and I want to make sure the person doing it is OK with that.

 

[BobnOH]

Start at ID Parts, they have a nice selection.
You don't really need TDI special knowledge for the clutch job.

 

[copatdir6]

Start at ID Parts, they have a nice selection.
You don't really need TDI special knowledge for the clutch job.

Ok, so I got a "quote" from a local shop that works on VWs and they quoted me almost $650 in labor alone. I thought that was a little high.....can anyone let me know if this is reasonable?

 

[fruitcakesa]

When I had reverse gear replaced [for worn teeth], I also had a clutch installed and some other fiddly repairs. Labor for all was $900 at my indy's shop.
He was charging $75/hr back then.

 

[turbovan+tdi]

What's his labour rate? Shops can charge a bit more if you bring your own parts for obvious reasons. Labour time per Mitchell is 6 hours.

 

[alhdude]

6 hours in Mitchell must include a 1/2hr coffee break.

17-050 Luk clutch kit is what I put into my 2001 Jetta. It had the original Luk DMF and clutch at 500k km and didn't slip with a euro asv ecu RC3. You could get one at a decent price from many sources.

No slippage with the new Luk clutch and Luk DMF with the tune either. I know I can't go and throw in PP520 or DLC1019 nozzles however without a clutch upgrade.

 

[turbovan+tdi]

6 hours in Mitchell must include a 1/2hr coffee break.

17-050 Luk clutch kit is what I put into my 2001 Jetta. It had the original Luk DMF and clutch at 500k km and didn't slip with a euro asv ecu RC3. You could get one at a decent price from many sources.

No slippage with the new Luk clutch and Luk DMF with the tune either. I know I can't go and throw in PP520 or DLC1019 nozzles however without a clutch upgrade.

6.5 hours with a coffee break.

 

[copatdir6]

Ok, from the research and postings (thanks guys) I think I'm leaning towards the South Bend Clutch Stage 2 Daily Clutch Kit w/ a Single Mass Flywheel.

I got 2 quotes (locally). 1 from a shop that deals a lot with VWs for about $650 and another general repair shop for $550.

I've had other work done at the repair place and have always been happy with their work....just have to weigh if getting it done at a VW place is worth it. I'm guessing they'll have more specific tools to get the job done and will know if something else doesn't look right if/when they're in there.

Now I'll have to wait to see if anyone is running any sales on clutch kits.

**Edit: I'd be more than happy to pay a GURU close to the same amount just because of their experience and specific knowledge....so If anyone out there does this regularly and can squeeze me in, let me know.

 

[copatdir6]

Ok guys (for those that care), I decided to go with the SBC Stage 2 Daily Clutch Kit w/SMF from idparts.com (great customer service and have had nothing but good experiences with them over the years).
I went with the 21lb SMF from SBC just to keep it similar to what I've been used to.
The kit comes with the pressure plate and the throwout bearing so all that will be replaced.

I also decided to purchase Bosio PowerPlus 520s but I'll be installing them myself at a little later date.

Looks like this summer is going to be the "Summer of the Jetta".

 

[steve6]

If you don't want to open it up any time soon again change the fork, pivot ball and the clip as well, does not hurt to do the trans seal either.

 

[copatdir6]

If you don't want to open it up any time soon again change the fork, pivot ball and the clip as well, does not hurt to do the trans seal either.

Steve,
I added these at the time I purchased the clutch kit from idparts.com:
1 x Clutch Release Lever Ball Pin (5-Speed)
1 x Clutch Release Lever Clip (A3)(B4)(A4)(A5 BRM)

What fork are you talking about? And are you referring to the Rear Mainshaft Seal (OEM VW
OEM Part Number: 06A103171A)?

Thanks

 

[steve6]

clutch release lever http://www.idparts.com/clutch-release-lever-a3b4a4a5-brm-p-1461.html (this is what pivots on the pivot ball)

and http://www.idparts.com/transmission-input-shaft-sleeve-seal-a3b4a4-p-2467.html $50 is a bit much for that seal, can get it cheaper. The input shaft seal is what the throw bearing rides on as well. The seal wouldn't be a huge deal breaker, but why risk a trans leak after a new clutch.

 

[Perfectreign]

As I'm looking at replacing the OEM clutch on my Jetta also at 230K miles, I'm seeing about the same labor rates.

Would love to put in a 4L85, but that probably wont' happen.

 

[copatdir6]

clutch release lever http://www.idparts.com/clutch-release-lever-a3b4a4a5-brm-p-1461.html (this is what pivots on the pivot ball)

and http://www.idparts.com/transmission-input-shaft-sleeve-seal-a3b4a4-p-2467.html $50 is a bit much for that seal, can get it cheaper. The input shaft seal is what the throw bearing rides on as well. The seal wouldn't be a huge deal breaker, but why risk a trans leak after a new clutch.

OK, I added the following items as well.
- Clutch Install Bolt Set for Mounts (A4) - (I'm hoping this is what I hear about the "stretch bolts")?
- CRANKSHAFT SEAL (REAR, W/FLANGE) - VW OEM Part Number: 06A103171A
- Clutch Release Lever - VW OEM Part Number: 02J141719C
- Guide Sleeve With Seal - VW OEM Part Number: 02A141180A

I figure the car is 13yrs old and I certainly don't want to get into it and find that I actually needed one (or more) of these parts just to have to order it anyway. HOPEFULLY this will be all I need to get the job done right and on the 1st try.

Please let me know if anyone thinks there should be anything else I should be replacing while I'm in there.

 

[Nevada_TDI]

I have the SBC Daily Driver 2 in my 2001 Jetta and even after a 17/56 and .230 nozzles there is no slip; well the tires slip on the pavement under full throttle...
I put on a new lever, pivot ball and clip, and didn't notice any difference in the amount of pedal effort required even though the grip was almost double stock. I occasionally tow a very small trailer as well. I don't see anything missing from your list though, and even with mild upgrades you should still have plenty of grip available with that clutch combo.

 

[slyk]

If your rear main seal isn't leaking, I wouldn't replace it. You run a risk of inducing a leak with a new seal. Plus I think to do it right you need to drop the oil pan, which requires a special sealant to put back on (per the Bentley manual anyway).

http://www.idparts.com/wurth-super-rtv-silicone-black-p-3057.html

Good to have a seal on hand just in case though, because if it is leaking you definitely want to replace it the same time you do the clutch and flywheel.

 

[copatdir6]

I have the SBC Daily Driver 2 in my 2001 Jetta and even after a 17/56 and .230 nozzles there is no slip; well the tires slip on the pavement under full throttle...
I put on a new lever, pivot ball and clip, and didn't notice any difference in the amount of pedal effort required even though the grip was almost double stock. I occasionally tow a very small trailer as well. I don't see anything missing from your list though, and even with mild upgrades you should still have plenty of grip available with that clutch combo.

Perfect, thanks....I don't have plans to mod the hell out of the car so I think I'll be happy with the grip. I also tow a slight bit (1000 - 1500 lbs) from time to time and the peace of mind will be well worth it.

If your rear main seal isn't leaking, I wouldn't replace it. You run a risk of inducing a leak with a new seal. Plus I think to do it right you need to drop the oil pan, which requires a special sealant to put back on (per the Bentley manual anyway).

http://www.idparts.com/wurth-super-rtv-silicone-black-p-3057.html

Good to have a seal on hand just in case though, because if it is leaking you definitely want to replace it the same time you do the clutch and flywheel.

Good to know....I'll let the local mechanic know that it's there if needed but not to install it if there's no visible leaks. I think it's like a gun....better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.