JackG
Well-known member
Performed 3rd timing belt change at 270,000 miles. Started and drove fine. A few weeks later the car started to lose power, eventually emitting white exhaust. Finally, no start. Checked the timing belt first to ultimately figure out that the HUB on the fuel pump slipped. I’m not talking about the pulley that is driven by the timing belt but the hub that connects the pulley and the fuel pump. The position setting on the hub to the fuel pump is set by the factory and cannot be successfully adjusted by us mere mortals. I understand that the older fuel pumps had a key that kept it from turning. I guess they saved a lot of money, by eliminating that key. The shaft and the hub are connected similarly to the camshaft and the cam pulley. So, we bought a remanufactured pump rebuilt by Bosch and warranted for a year.
Installed the pump. Bled the pump and the injector lines. Would not start. Replaced all the fuel lines between the firewall, the filter and the injection pump and return. Installed new thermo fitting on the filter while changing the filter. Installed an inline, reciprocating, solenoid auxiliary pump between the filter and the IP inlet operated by a new relay, triggered by the shut off valve on the IP. It works great but the friggin’ car still won’t start. We’ve swapped the CPU. NFG. New crank trigger, N75, N109, MAF, MAP. Etc, etc!
With the new auxiliary pump, priming the feed lines and filter is a breeze. Still no start. Pulling fuel thru the system, disconnected from the IP inlet and fuel exiting into a clear container, air in the line was noted. Probably a small leak at the elbow at the firewall. Focusing on getting the engine started, we disconnected the fuel lines at the filter on the IP side and stuck them in a container with about a quart of diesel fuel and tried to start the engine. NFG!
Bleeding the injector lines again (1\2 turn open on each tube fitting) produces a lazy flow of fuel. No start. Sprayed some ether into the inlet. Got the engine to turn over briefly. Then nada.
It would be easy to say that it is the rebuilt by Bosch IP and warranted for a year but I don’t want to pursue that yet until I have exhausted all my options. In the back of my mind its something simple … or unfixable. I lean to the former and ignore the latter. I need HELP for my next troubleshooting approach. Please help!
Installed the pump. Bled the pump and the injector lines. Would not start. Replaced all the fuel lines between the firewall, the filter and the injection pump and return. Installed new thermo fitting on the filter while changing the filter. Installed an inline, reciprocating, solenoid auxiliary pump between the filter and the IP inlet operated by a new relay, triggered by the shut off valve on the IP. It works great but the friggin’ car still won’t start. We’ve swapped the CPU. NFG. New crank trigger, N75, N109, MAF, MAP. Etc, etc!
With the new auxiliary pump, priming the feed lines and filter is a breeze. Still no start. Pulling fuel thru the system, disconnected from the IP inlet and fuel exiting into a clear container, air in the line was noted. Probably a small leak at the elbow at the firewall. Focusing on getting the engine started, we disconnected the fuel lines at the filter on the IP side and stuck them in a container with about a quart of diesel fuel and tried to start the engine. NFG!
Bleeding the injector lines again (1\2 turn open on each tube fitting) produces a lazy flow of fuel. No start. Sprayed some ether into the inlet. Got the engine to turn over briefly. Then nada.
It would be easy to say that it is the rebuilt by Bosch IP and warranted for a year but I don’t want to pursue that yet until I have exhausted all my options. In the back of my mind its something simple … or unfixable. I lean to the former and ignore the latter. I need HELP for my next troubleshooting approach. Please help!
