2002 Jetta TDi Injection Pump and other issues

[jenxo]

I bought a 2002 Tdi earlier this year with 230,000 miles. Nicely maintained, and even came with a TdiForum license plate holder.
Last week I decided to take it down to my mechanic and do the $700, 100k service. I had been saving up to do it for 6 months.

Mechanic spotted a few extra things, hose etc. total $800
But then he noticed my fuel INJECTION PUMP was leaking..quite bit!
After searching YOUTUBE, I put in some spoon fulls of ATF stop-leak straight into fuel filter. leak stopped for a few days, black smoke when I rev too high, and now leak is back.
I intend to fill up with B99 tomorrow for $3.60/gallon at a local bio conversion shop.
I have read/seen that switching to b99 will "heal my seals"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPk94mQyack

I have several options
1) Buy a new pump ( $1300!!)
2) get it reconditioned in Tennesse ( Ebay dealer, Im in California) for $395
3) get it RESEALED in N. Carolina for $175
4) Get it done for $435 at Wild Rose motors in California. Good shop, but outta my BUDGET!

I saw some posts about doing the re-sealing while still mounted on motor.
Seals cost about $20, and it looks like I may need a SPECIAL TOOL also.

My brother-in-law can do this job, but will only be in town in a month.
I need to stop the leak till he can do the on-motor re-seal job. But is 2 seals enough?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NuRI8EovEmQ&feature=related

If there was someone local that would reseal for about $150 I would do it ( that's my budget) , but I only found ones far away.

What would you guys do ? Any recommendations GREATLY APPRECIATED.


Jenxo

 

[chromeBuddha]

The youtube videos you need are with Robbie (runonbeer) and Jim (from dieselgeek). Search "IP head seal" and user runonbeer. The special tool is $23 from dieselgeek. I would recommend the kit from them Cost of the kit and tool shipped about $70. Don't skimp and try to do a "least expensive" job only to find that the QA seals leak after reassembly... Get the head and QA seal kits from a reputable source.

The actual procedure will take about 1-2 hours. You will need vag-com to set the IQ afterward. Scribe marks are needed, but not accurate enough to reassemble with good results.

Follow the videos and save $2K (since replacing the pump involves most of the actions to replace the timing belt). On car seal repair is a time and money saver.

Just curious, what is Wild Rose offering for $435?

 

[runonbeer]

The videos are posted in my girlfriends account and there are no "tags" for runonbeer or dieselgeek.

Follow the link in my signature.

 

[KLXD]

If Bio stops the leaks it will only be until you go back to D2. If it has been leaking long you should replace the coolant hoses the fuel is dripping on.

Which seals are leaking? The two on the QA are easy if you have access to VCDS. The head seal is more difficult.

The tool can be made in five minutes from a cheap 6 point 7mm socket if you have a Dremmel or other small grinder.

 

[jenxo]

$435 at WILD ROSE:
I called and spoke to Leonard, and it's for complete re-seal and setting of all the required settings.
He quoted $1100 for the 100k service + reseal FIP ( But i already paid $800 to do the 100k service, with my local trusted mechanic)

Do you think my mechanic could have caused this leak, due to a bad setting ?

 

[jenxo]

I'm going to risk, ON-CAR reseal. But a few questions:

1) looks like only 3-4 seals can be accomplished on car. there are like 10 or so correct?What would I NOT be able to get to, if it was ON-CAR reseal only
I don't want to have to remove timing belt etc

2) Can I do this without the computerized VAG-COM or VCDS ?

3) Do i really need to reseal, or is it possible my mechanic didn't do the timing belt service job correctly and mis-set something?

Thanks chaps. This advice is a Godsend.

 

[KLXD]

The only soft seals are:

Timing solenoid - Under the pump head. Can be done in place but hard to get to. Sometimes difficult to remove. VCDS not needed.

Head seal - Tricky in that you MUST keep the internal springs compressed or pieces fall out of place inside. Plunger can break if you don't push the head back in evenly. You probably get some dirt inside the pump no matter what you do. Shouldn't need VCDS if this is the only one you do.

Upper QA seal - No VCDS needed.

Lower QA seal - VCDS needed to set IQ.

Shaft seal - Not included in kit. Usually doesn't leak. Timing belt removal required.

Cable entry on front of pump - Requires breaking internal welds in the QA and reattachment. Usually doesn't leak. Not in kit.

Cutoff solenoid o-ring - Usually easy, especially if you remove the QA cover.

The timing piston has a cover plate on the front and rear, one's a gasket and not in the kit. I think the other is an o-ring but I'm not sure. This piston is on the bottom of the pump and at a right angel to the pump axis. These usually don't leak.

I think the case pressure relief has o-rings on it but you shouldn't have to mess with it.

I think that's it.

Nothing your mechanic did on a normal timing belt job would cause leaks.

 

[runonbeer]

You forgot to mention the case pressure plug seals and the head plug seal which DO come in the kit and CAN be changed on the car.

Ask Jim at dieselgeek.com about the head plug seal tool when you order the other seals and tools (I believe he has a few prototypes made up at this time)

I recommend that you follow the procedure as outlined in the video which does in fact require VCDS.

Leonard's price is not at all out of line for the service should you decide to have it done by a professional

No, your prior mechanic did NOT cause the leak.

 

[runonbeer]

Cable entry on front of pump - Requires breaking internal welds in the QA and reattachment. Usually doesn't leak. Not in kit.

You're right, these are not in the kit nor are they available separately from Bosch. But you wouldnt need to break internal connections or remove the pump from the car if you de-pin #'s 9 & 10 (the timing solenoid) from the 10 pin on the pump side and stretch the new seals over the wiring harness for the pump. Oh how I wish I could find these seals.

 

[chromeBuddha]

Sorry I was unclear/sleepy. The search I intended was on this site, not youtube. Just mentioned jim (from dieselgeek) because I think that is how he is introduced in the video.

The videos are posted in my girlfriends account and there are no "tags" for runonbeer or dieselgeek.

Follow the link in my signature.

 

[migbro]

Last week I decided to take it down to my mechanic and do the $700, 100k service. I had been saving up to do it for 6 months.

Please post what exactly was done - what parts were installed - to your Jetta timing belt. These cars can be real heartbreakers if the timing belt change is not done absolutely correctly.

I intend to fill up with B99 tomorrow for $3.60/gallon at a local bio conversion shop.
I have read/seen that switching to b99 will "heal my seals"

Interesting YouTube video. Looked a bit too good to be true - head seal leak stopped after six minutes run time on B100. Let us know what happens.

I have several options
1) Buy a new pump ( $1300!!)
2) get it reconditioned in Tennesse ( Ebay dealer, Im in California) for $395
3) get it RESEALED in N. Carolina for $175
4) Get it done for $435 at Wild Rose motors in California. Good shop, but outta my BUDGET!

Options 2 and 3 require removing the pump from the car, so are not really options.

I saw some posts about doing the re-sealing while still mounted on motor.
Seals cost about $20, and it looks like I may need a SPECIAL TOOL also.

My brother-in-law can do this job, but will only be in town in a month.
I need to stop the leak till he can do the on-motor re-seal job. But is 2 seals enough?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NuRI8EovEmQ&feature=related

If there was someone local that would reseal for about $150 I would do it ( that's my budget) , but I only found ones far away.

It's been said before, but to keep an older TDI running you either need to know a TDI mechanic or be a TDI mechanic. The low fuel cost is attractive but if you don't really understand these cars the fuel cost savings will be more than offset by the maintenance and repair costs of the numerous items that you don't find on a gasoline engine.

If you don't want to become a TDI mechanic you would probably be better off looking for a good used Toyota Corolla and then selling the Jetta before one of the unknown (to you) but sadly predictable TDI disasters strikes.

 

[jenxo]

2002 Jetta FIP leaking

As predicted by the truly helpful KLXD ( I mean it) , using D2 brought the leak back. The Biodiesel local supplier hasn't had supply of oil to make BIO for a month now, so I'm toast. I knew it was a temp fix anyway.
I also found that ATF stop leak, 2 teaspoons directly into the fuel filter also worked very well.
So...next week I
'm taking it down to Leonard at Wild Rose TDI in Whittier and $425 should do it.
Not cheap. But will be done with the leak for a few years.
Migbro, you are smart, and right. Appreciate the input.

UPDATE :
I bit the Bullet. Paid $430 to Leonard at Wild Rose Motors in Whittier , CA
Complete reseal . It was $68 for the seals and $375 for labor.
12 month warranty, so we will see how it lasts.

The mechanic was very good, and he pointed out a few things : long snaking hose under the Injection pump would probably need replacement in future.
They quoted $100 on that hose. I declined. Hoping to find it on ebay as an aftermarket part.
Any ideas? I'll take some pics soon.

 

[1heavyfoot]

Was it the head seal Leonard replaced for you? I replaced that in my car last year. It was tricky but it went back together smoothly with no issues thanks to awesome instructions on the site here.

Where are you getting your Bio? I used to live in South Orange County and would buy mine from Nicky Petroleum in Placentia (even though it was a long ways away). They had B20 available 24/7 on CardLock and B99 available during business hours. Would pump 5 Gal in the tank and then take two 5 gallons home with me so I could run B30. Only saw them out of Bio once in 3 years I bought from them.