2002 1.9 tdi

[Sharpshooter48]

I have a 1.9 tdi alh automatic, first i bought this car with a bad transmission with the intention to do a swap build, with that being said it had what sounded like a lope tune but was told it was completely stock. I dove in started trouble shooting first codes i had were (quantity adjusted upper limit attained), (needle lift sensor circ. Open/short to b+),(throttle pedal position sensor/switch C high), and (coolant thermostat below regulating temperature). I did a full timing belt change with everything included an i bought a new fuel injection pump. After all that plus new vacuum lines the car has lost the lope tune sound but idles a little high an is white smoking bad. I have messed with the injection pump got the idle normal but still around 1k-1,200 rpms an white smoking. And it is still throwing the (needle lift sensor circ. Open/short to b+), can anyone help on whats going on, i have a vcds cable from ross tech coming in the mail but is there anything else that could help?

 

[jmodge]

White smoke is unburnt fuel. First two things that came to my mind were, 1) you skipped the the first step which would be VCDS 2) Where did the pump come from???
Timing belt was a good choice, pump probably wasn't. At least not until vVCDS determined it to be faulty.

So, assuming you used the proper methods to set physical timing after the belt install, start simple. With VCDS check static timing, check IQ (research hammer mod and default setting). These are basic adjustments that need to be done first. Delete all codes.

Then once your static timing and IQ are set, check your injector balance.

If you still have a code for needle lift sensor, unplug and check resistance. If you still have white smoke, Do an Advance solenoid output test, and also log specified and actual timing.

 

[jmodge]

One other thing. Pump storage. For the moment since you didn't have VCDS when you swapped pumps, I'm going to assume there's nothing wrong with it. I could be mistaken because I don't know all the details of what brought you to decide to replace it.

Once you've sorted out the issues with the car and determined the state of the pump that's on it, that leaves you two avenues.
1) the installed pump is good; filling the removed used pump with ATF is a good way to store it.
2) the installed pump has issues: purchase a seal kit and replace your seals before reinstalling it.

A LiquiMoly Diesel Purge would be a good step to take also after the above tasks. You run the engine at idle and varying rpm's on straight filtered purge from an isolated container. But do things in the order I posted and let me know what happens.

 

[Sharpshooter48]

Alright so i have checked hooked up the vcds to the car looked at the static timing on the chart got it fairly close between the blue a green,the motor has a lope so the lines go from good to advance with the lope. I went an checked the IQ an its at 0 an bounces to 1, then 2 then 0. Not sure how to fix that or where to start.

 

[Sharpshooter48]

Ive cleared all the codes an its showing new codes on it now, showing (needle lift sensor), (vehicle speed sensor), and (start of injection timing regulation)

 

[jmodge]

Google ALH TDI IQ adjustment and hammer mod. You're on the very rich side and you won't be able to adjust it fully with just software. Get an old 7/32" socket and grind just enough out of it with a Dremel to grab the 3 sided security bolt.
You will need a scribe and an ink marker. The security bolt on the cover and the other three bolts below the cover on the IQ block need to be marked for location and then cracked loose no more than half a turn. this is done when warm with the engine running and VCDS hooked up. The reason the bolts are marked is so you can torque them to the same spot they were. No more than 1/2 turn so you don't have fuel leaking.
Also BEFORE doing anything, mark across the parting line of the IQ block and the pump body (not the upper cover) in 2 or 3 places and scribe a reference line through the paint. This makes the line more visible. that line is in case you move the IQ block too far and can't get the car started. it gives you a reference point to go back to.

 

[jmodge]

IQ is injection quantity, btw. The lower the IQ number, the richer you are. I had needle lift sensor codes among others, as well as a cutting out and jerking issue when my car was around 2. you get it between 4 and 6 and it should run a lot better. It must shake pretty good at idle.

 

[jmodge]

it takes very little metal removal to make the socket fit. You might be able to hammer the socket over the nut without grinding. I'm not sure about that, but my truck has a socket stuck right on the bolt head, I think that someone just tapped it on there with a hammer. It's convenient anyway.

 

[Sharpshooter48]

Been a while since ive been on here but after doing some of the steps above i got the car running somewhat decent not perfect, i pulled in to the garage the car shut off on its own an will not start up at all, will crank all day but will not start. Ive looked up countless amounts of videos an ive ran out of options. I have checked my egr flap to see if its stuck, ive re primed all the lines from tank to injectors, even bought a 109 relay and crank shaft sensor. The glow light comes on then off at ignition, my timing belt is still snug so i dont see how it would have jumped a tooth, Might be missing some other stuff ive tried. Does anyone have any other ideas what could be simple im missing? I did plug my scanner in an have these codes for the powertrain.(P0028) throttle/pedal position sensor, (P1247) needle lift sensor open/short to b+, (P0322) ignition distributor engine speed input circuit, i have some other codes but i think there on the transmission side. If anyone could shed some light or have similar problems let me know.

 

[garciapiano]

That sounds like harness issues. I would double check whether you have continuity to all the pump connectors.