2001 Jetta TDI VE IP

[Taggart]

Hi all,
I am looking for recommendations for sourcing an IP for my 2001 TDI. I'm looking for a good Reman/Rebuilt unit done by a TDI pro.
I have read that there are members that are recognized as being reliable on quality of units they repair, but I cant seem to remember where I read it. I read a lot chasing down this 17656 code and stumble @ 3K rpm. Now that the car is dead in the shop I need a IP, So if anyone can point me in a direction I would be appreciative.
This car is bone stock with no modifications.
Thanks

 

[Lightflyer1]

Actual repair is left to the real professional shops although there are other things that our trusted mechanics do to them. Sounds to me like you need to find a new shop with a trusted tdi mechanic to start with.

This place does rebuilds:
http://www.dfispdx.com/

There are our vendors here who sell remans as well. For example:
http://www.idparts.com/10mm-injection-pump-reman-a4-alh-p-1986.html

Or chance buying a used one for now while yours gets sent for rebuild. Our for sale forum has a few offered.

 

[jiggseob]

Whats happening with the dead IP?

On my old 300k+mile Beetle, I re-sealed the input shaft of the injection pump when it was super hard starting. The shop I took it to said the injection pump needed rebuild to the tune of $2k.Since the car wasn't worth that, I dragged it home.

See that the input shaft of the pump of the ip has no key, and once you take the pulley mounting flange off to access the seal, you have no way to get the flange back on where it needs to be.

I used a dremel wheel to grind a tiny groove in the end of the ip shaft. Used a piece of flat steel (stainless steel ruler) the thickness of that groove in the ip shaft, I scribed a mark in the rim of the pulley. Pulled the pulley and flange off the taper, put the new $17 seal behind it, and reassembled. I found that while turning the nut to tighten the pulley flange back onto the taper, the pulley would crawl out of alignment with the straightedge in the slot. So I had to start a bit ahead of the alignment mark, tighten down, its there right on the mark. Put it all back together, with new belt and water pump, it was close enough that the timing could be adjusted.

Sold the car 30k miles later, I see it still driving around town, so it must be holding up.

So if the IP is losing prime, and hard, hard starting, lotsa bubbles in those lines to and from the filter, that probably is your problem. The injection pump shops that make their living re-building your pumps for $1000 and up will tell you that the inside of the pump is worn, the shaft is wobbling, and the seal has failed from the wobbling shaft, and a new seal is only a temporary treatment of a symptom, and not the cure. This seal is like 10-15 years old now, and when built the bio-diesel thing was not even thought of.

The seal itself was $17. The timing belt kit was $200-odd, and needed done anyways. This fix worked for 50,000+km in my case. Yours may be different.

Jiggs.

 

[Lightflyer1]

It is in a shop now though so I am guessing the OP can't or won't do the repair themselves. There are always things you can do if you do your own work. If you are paying someone else it is always good practice to do it right the first time. If the OP is going to attempt something like this seal the whole pump as outlined on these forums. Dieselgeek sells the kit and runonbeer did the video showing how.

 

[Rembrant]

Or chance buying a used one for now while yours gets sent for rebuild. Our for sale forum has a few offered.

This is what I did...although a bit more convenient in my situation as I did it myself and I don't need the car right away. Picked up a used pump locally for $150 bucks with 260k miles on it. So far, it seems to work just fine...for the little bit I've used it.

I'm going to send the noisy pump I removed in for rebuild over the winter.

If you're paying somebody to do the work for you, and the car is in good shape and you're going to be keeping it for a while, then spend the money and get a good reman pump from a reputable shop. It's an expensive pill to swallow, but makes more sense in the long run.

 

[BobnOH]

Looking at the Ross Tech wiki
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17656/P1248/004680
I see no indication of a bad pump.
I would at least check the the wiring, etc. before replacing the pump.
Especially the bundled wires that go near the starter and under the battery tray.

 

[UhOh]

Might be worth reading:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=290693

 

[Taggart]

Thanks all,
I normally do my own work but with a right hand full of stitches I cant do anything at the moment.

It is in the shop for this reason only and the mechanic that will be doing the work is top notch and a friend.

All of this started as a slight stumble at high rpm and progressively got worse until it got to not being able to spin past 2600 - 3000 rpm under any load, as well as harder and harder to start then it died while on highway. There is fuel in clear line and only a small bubble at the top of line, no leaks, and all connections are good and wires all seem to be in order.

Thanks again