2000 vw NB intank fuel pump wiring

[csstevej]

As the title states, I’m putting a BEW intank pump into my 2000 NB and looking for some wiring advice from people who have done this on a New Beetle.
I’m not using the location that is on the write up procedure for installing the relay by the fire wall where the coolant gp relay sits.
I’m using a waterproof sealed relay that I’m mounting along the top of the rad.
My question is where did you run the power wire to the rear of the car for the intank pump? Where along the firewall by the passenger side did you go?
Thanks

 

[burpod]

perhaps you're set on wiring it this way... but it is easy, very neat, safer from corrosion and involves no hacking or splicing....

you can make a standalone harness for it. power for relay from #30 stud in footwell, ground from footwell, add a relay 53 into the relay panel, add a fuse into an empty fuse location, run a little wire with ring terminal to fuel shutoff solenoid, and then then 2 wires from relay back to pump. all inside the car, no messy loose wires under the hood with chance of corrosion...

if you have a crimper and some new terminal ends (very cheap on mouser, digi-key etc), you can make this mini-harness without even a single solder joint

 

[csstevej]

Not set in wiring yet , everything I’ve seen shows running wires in the engine bay. I like this alternate way.
I will look into this , thanks.

 

[burpod]

its how i do it on any car i put a lift pump in no soldering, no hacking/splicing, no extra wires in the engine bay, it's clean, neat and easy (and easily removable) i have some big spools of wire and an assortment of vw (TE) terminal ends and crimpers. so just measure it out, cut, crimp then wrap it up and plug into car... sometimes i may solder the ground wire to the relay to the ground for the lift pump rather than crimp 2 wires into one terminal, but other than that no soldering.

the only expensive part is those relay holders (which plugs into the relay panel) seem to be pricey these days. but thats the kind of thing you can always find at a junkyard too. i got a deal on a box of them years ago

edit - i use #8 small fuse position. its the upper-left most slot that should be empty. its the most easily accessible one to sneak new wires into. its a little tricky to get the purple locking tab to release so you can get new wires in there

 

[burpod]

- 14ga wire with ring terminal from terminal 30 stud to fuse
- 14ga wire from fuse to relay power source (30)
- 16-18ga wire with ring terminal from fuel shutoff solenoid to 86 of relay
- 14ga wire from 87 of relay to lift pump power
- 14ga wire from ground in footwell (just find a metal stud to put it on) to relay ground 85 and lift pump ground

easy peasy

 

[csstevej]

Making up the harness as we speak , I don’t have the vw terminals to run to the fuse panel or the receptacle to install into the relay block.
Sooo I had already purchased the weather proof sealed relay and an inline fuse and connected them for a nice little harness….. just trying to find an easy way to run the signal wire to the IP from the dash.
But it’s pouring rain here for the next two days and there’s no way I can get the car in due to all the crap in the garage.
Hopefully Monday…..

 

[Rickstah]

perhaps you're set on wiring it this way... but it is easy, very neat, safer from corrosion and involves no hacking or splicing....

you can make a standalone harness for it. power for relay from #30 stud in footwell, ground from footwell, add a relay 53 into the relay panel, add a fuse into an empty fuse location, run a little wire with ring terminal to fuel shutoff solenoid, and then then 2 wires from relay back to pump. all inside the car, no messy loose wires under the hood with chance of corrosion...

if you have a crimper and some new terminal ends (very cheap on mouser, digi-key etc), you can make this mini-harness without even a single solder joint

HI, burpod, I am installing a BEW pump in place of my NB's sending unit, long story but I am interested in your version of the install but hoping you could clarify something. When you say "power for relay from #30 stud in footwell" do you mean either of the studs seen in the first picture? I see the brown wire and noticed it once years ago when in there for another reason but do you mean if I turn on the ignition that should be supplying power? I see another smaller stud above it, figured it would be a ground point? Thank you for any response. The second pic shows an open spot in a frame for relays is this where you suggest the 53 go? Thanks, hopefully I am not missing some obvious stud in there...(scratching head)

 

[KrashDH]

HI, burpod, I am installing a BEW pump in place of my NB's sending unit, long story but I am interested in your version of the install but hoping you could clarify something. When you say "power for relay from #30 stud in footwell" do you mean either of the studs seen in the first picture? I see the brown wire and noticed it once years ago when in there for another reason but do you mean if I turn on the ignition that should be supplying power? I see another smaller stud above it, figured it would be a ground point? Thank you for any response. The second pic shows an open spot in a frame for relays is this where you suggest the 53 go? Thanks, hopefully I am not missing some obvious stud in there...(scratching head)

@burpod so he sees it

 

[Zak99b5]

Those are grounds.

The stud is on the bottom of the relay panel that’s behind the lower kick panel. First one on the left will be labeled 75x, which is switched hot. Maybe you don’t want to use that one because the load reduction relay cuts that out during cranking?

 

[Rickstah]

Those are grounds.

The stud is on the bottom of the relay panel that’s behind the lower kick panel. First one on the left will be labeled 75x, which is switched hot. Maybe you don’t want to use that one because the load reduction relay cuts that out during cranking?

Thanks, Zak, good point if that stopped the pump from building pressure for any appreciable amount of time, although I am just surmising. I was thinking. I hadn't looked any further for the "stud" either so thanks for chiming in. I was thinking of just activating an empty slot if I could get the wires to it, been awhile since I tried to get behind that fuse area, I can see why the Lift Pump just pulls from a fairly easy location.

 

[Rickstah]

@burpod so he sees it

Thanks, Krash, I was half thinking I did it wrong all day but thought maybe I had messed up over on X, lol.

 

[KrashDH]

Thanks, Krash, I was half thinking I did it wrong all day but thought maybe I had messed up over on X, lol.

No worries, it's just how you notify someone on these type of forums. I'm not familiar with what X is so no help there

 

[Rickstah]

No worries, it's just how you notify someone on these type of forums. I'm not familiar with what X is so no help there

I used to know how to do it, haven't had to talk with individuals in awhile . X is the new name for Twitter.

 

[KrashDH]

I used to know how to do it, haven't had to talk with individuals in awhile . X is the new name for Twitter.

Ahhh ok. I don't have any social media

 

[burpod]

Those are grounds.

The stud is on the bottom of the relay panel that’s behind the lower kick panel. First one on the left will be labeled 75x, which is switched hot. Maybe you don’t want to use that one because the load reduction relay cuts that out during cranking?

right, that's why you want to use #30 which is constant battery power, and the ring terminal to the shutoff-valve will control it on/off. that way it only runs when pump is active. if engine stalls out (accident or something) it will cut power to the lift pump which is exactly what you want it to do

 

[csstevej]

I did this on my 00 new beetle , it works great. Hardest part was running the control wire for the relay through the firewall to the IP.

 

[Rickstah]

right, that's why you want to use #30 which is constant battery power, and the ring terminal to the shutoff-valve will control it on/off. that way it only runs when pump is active. if engine stalls out (accident or something) it will cut power to the lift pump which is exactly what you want it to do

Thanks, Burpod. I knew you had done multiple vehicles like this and probably would have noticed if the ignition interrupt made a difference, but it was a good question. I appreciate you and Zak both helping me understand this. Going to start this adventure shortly .

 

[Rickstah]

Thanks, Burpod. I knew you had done multiple vehicles like this and probably would have noticed if the ignition interrupt made a difference, but it was a good question. I appreciate you and Zak both helping me understand this. Going to start this adventure shortly .

@burpod do you remove the two bottom relays and remove the relay frame to get to the stud? I tried to lay eyes on it after moving the two harnesses, uncertainty abounds.

 

[burpod]

you shouldn't have to remove anything, there's other wires going onto the studs, you just remove the nut and add another ring terminal+wire to it. take fusebox out a bit, unlock it, add the couple wires, pop in a fuse and put a new relay53 into the panel somewhere. you don't need to remove the relay panel at all

 

[Rickstah]

you shouldn't have to remove anything, there's other wires going onto the studs, you just remove the nut and add another ring terminal+wire to it. take fusebox out a bit, unlock it, add the couple wires, pop in a fuse and put a new relay53 into the panel somewhere. you don't need to remove the relay panel at all

OK i am still confused. Earlier you said power from #30 stud in footwell...you must be talking about one of the relays currently IN the relay panel I have circled in red below because I see no blade stud that a blade connector would slide down upon? Or else I have not dug back in there far enough? Are you saying I find the 30 stud from one of those relays and tap into it and then the other end goes to the 30 stud on the relay 53? The only stud I see are apparently grounds circled in white, one with a brown wire on it. I need to look some more, sorry. Is it up closer to the fusebox? Sorry, the 2002 has these studs you mention I am sure just not seeing anything protruding behind the harnesses and two relays in the frame.

 

[burpod]

the studs should be right on the bottom . i'm a little confused where exactly that pic is at. unless NBs have some really funky wiring setup? to get access to everything you need, all you should have to do is take the cover off that is right about where your feet are and the lower dash trim below steering wheel and they should be stairing you in the face. i'll try to find some pics

 

[Rickstah]

the studs should be right on the bottom . i'm a little confused where exactly that pic is at. unless NBs have some really funky wiring setup? to get access to everything you need, all you should have to do is take the cover off that is right about where your feet are and the lower dash trim below steering wheel and they should be stairing you in the face. i'll try to find some pics

Oh crap I thought it was on the left side by the footbrace behind the vertical plastic! You mean up under the dash above the pedals?

 

[J_dude]

OK i am still confused. Earlier you said power from #30 stud in footwell...you must be talking about one of the relays currently IN the relay panel I have circled in red below because I see no blade stud that a blade connector would slide down upon? Or else I have not dug back in there far enough? Are you saying I find the 30 stud from one of those relays and tap into it and then the other end goes to the 30 stud on the relay 53? The only stud I see are apparently grounds circled in white, one with a brown wire on it. I need to look some more, sorry. Is it up closer to the fusebox? Sorry, the 2002 has these studs you mention I am sure just not seeing anything protruding behind the harnesses and two relays in the frame.

Your pic shows the plugs for the door harness, at the side of the footwell, that’s not what you want. The relay panel burpod is talking about is almost directly above the brake and clutch pedals.

Edit: Ok yeah, just saw your last post, you’re on the right track now.

 

[Rickstah]

Your pic shows the plugs for the door harness, at the side of the footwell, that’s not what you want. The relay panel burpod is talking about is almost directly above the brake and clutch pedals.

Edit: Ok yeah, just saw your last post, you’re on the right track now.

Thanks, dude, not totally blind, just lost, lol.

 

[burpod]

here. glad i decided to just take a peek in wifes car. found my 75x terminal stud was loose!!!! ***!?? maybe that explains some random electrical issues i've had lately. only one i've been able to notice was coolant temp gauge on cluster was sometimes not working right, in conjuction with the fuel level gauge. took the terminals off that, brushed and put back.... hers is a BEW but the fusel/relay panel should be virtually the same iirc. i have some other stuff in there from relay'ing headlights and couple other things i did long time ago

 

[Rickstah]

here. glad i decided to just take a peek in wifes car. found my 75x terminal stud was loose!!!! ***!?? maybe that explains some random electrical issues i've had lately. only one i've been able to notice was coolant temp gauge on cluster was sometimes not working right, in conjuction with the fuel level gauge. took the terminals off that, brushed and put back.... hers is a BEW but the fusel/relay panel should be virtually the same iirc. i have some other stuff in there from relay'ing headlights and couple other things i did long time ago

Appreciate that, sorry I made you do that. I was able to loosen the plastic right under the steering wheel and see the 30a stud pictured above, so I need to remove the black cover that is below it, I guess I can do that, every time I touch any tupperware on this car it cracks, lol. Assume some torx screws up near the front and it slides out of those white clips. Your studs are busy .

 

[burpod]

i gave up a long time ago caring about mk4 dash trim pieces lol. none of the screws are present in them in wifes car in the pieces below the steering wheel. just enough clips left unbroken they stay in place and don't rattle. hate the soft touch crap anyway. but i'm glad i decided to just go look for mself again, found that not-so-snug terminal... not good!!

 

[Rickstah]

i gave up a long time ago caring about mk4 dash trim pieces lol. none of the screws are present in them in wifes car in the pieces below the steering wheel. just enough clips left unbroken they stay in place and don't rattle. hate the soft touch crap anyway. but i'm glad i decided to just go look for mself again, found that not-so-snug terminal... not good!!

I miss my 98 AHU, lol.

 

[burpod]

i can't wait to get my mk3 back on the road. miss that car so much. it's perfect (how i built it) but.. also, no soft touch plastics, the interior as long as it's not completely abused simply doesn't age. so dang simple. don't like the tiny gt15 turbo or stock tuning, but.. not too hard to put a big turbo 11mm etc on it with some wiring fixing, a vnt swap and 02j shifter etc it can't be beat....

 

[Rickstah]

Years ago after I had mine I went down to Texas for a rally and bought some Upsolute chips off Runonbeer, stuck them in my Jetta, got some .205s and danged if that little thing wouldn't run like mad, lol, stock turbo. Sniff (dabs at eyes)