2000 Eurovan 1z SYNCRO Swap

njt1rider

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2003 Eurovan 1z SYNCRO Swap

***2003 Eurovan 1Z Syncro Swap***

Hey all, after about 4 years of living in my 93 TDI Eurovan van and logging over 105,000 miles I have found myself in Denver, Colorado working for Cavevan.com. I am about to embark on a TDI Syncro swap into a 2003 Eurovan. I enjoyed the process of my last swap and thread so much that I decided to make one for this as well. This is just the short and skinny to get started but I will update this with more details and photos very soon! Stay Tuned. Check out my parts threads in the for sale thread if you have some 1z/ahu stuff you think I could use.

If you don't know Cavevan yet, check out cavevan.com and their instagram.

www.Cavevan.com

https://www.instagram.com/cavevan/
 
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oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
I think the T4 was an easier 4WD conversion than the T3 since they were designed from the onset to have as much in common with the 2WD versions as possible. So Volkswagen could build them both at the same plant (Hannover). Steyr had to assemble the 4WD T3s in Austria because they were THAT different than t he 2WD, although Steyr ended up assembling some of the last of the 2WD T3s as well, so... :confused: They may have been less automated perhaps.

Either way, sounds like a neat project. I liked my T4, I had a '93 too (2.5L gasser/automatic) but sold it and replaced it with a Sprinter. Just wasn't big enough for what I needed.
 

njt1rider

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OH, I believe you are totally correct. I was (-----) this close to doing the Syncro swap on my personal van when I did my swap 5 years ago but just didn't have the time/money/energy at the time. Hindsight being 20/20 I would have just bought a camper sprinter from the get-go but I just didn't know at the time. I wouldn't trade my experience for the world though and had a great time meeting people through tdiclub and the VW community. I have since upgraded to a T1N Sprinter as well and the difference is night and day. We do custom Sprinters at Cavevan; this one just left the shop yesterday to a very pleased owner: https://www.instagram.com/p/BoM1SrDBntw/?taken-by=cavevan

Anyway back to the syncro, we recently had a euro spec 2.5TDI syncro in the shop and I checked everything out very closely and yes the syncro is basically a bolt on swap. I believe Justin at greaseworks has a good write up on his blog which I will be referencing on here I am sure. SO excited to get started! Making a parts list as we speak!
 
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oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
What type of AWD system do the early T4s use? Is it a standalone Haldex system?

(Picture of my people movers just for fun) :)

 

Zeitgeist

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I believe it's a viscous coupler, just like the T3s. Other than the exhaust, the Syncro kit appears to just bolt in place, unlike the T3s.

I'll be watching this closely. I really want to convert my '01 to TDI and Syncro, even though I love the VR6 and the FWD with traction control is awesome in the snow.
 

njt1rider

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I believe Zeitgeist is correct. I'm not too familiar with Haldex but after doing a little research it sounds like the Haldex is a fairly newer system (98ish?) and started with the Audis. The Syncro systems in the eurovan began being produced in 92ish or so. I know the Syncros in Europe had more sophisticated systems with electronic lockers but this system appears to be the most basic system which I believe is just the viscous coupler. I will figure out pictures soon.

2 questions:
How do I change the thread title? It should say 2003. I went to advance editing and changed it to 2003 but it still says 2000.

What is the best way to attach photos now adays? I used photo bucket last time and they screwed us all over for awhile there so would prefer not to go that route again. If this is a sticky already, feel free to just point out the link. Thank you.
 
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Josh_WA

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I was close to going to syncro just this past winter but decided that I would just update to an EWB transmission geared for the AHU that I had already put in. It would have been $1500 more to go syncro. Call me lazy, but I didn't want to replace or modify the complete exhaust I put on and Frans mentioned that I would need to modify the sump for it to fit with the syncro transmission. Were there syncros that came with 1.9 engines? I'm not in the mountains much either, so it would by all show and no play while burning a little extra fuel to haul it around. It would be cool though.
 

Zeitgeist

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If you're a Samba member you can upload pics there and post links elsewhere.
 

Zeitgeist

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If your van has ABS, then can the EDL be made to function with both front and rear diffs, or does that require a completely new ABS control unit?
 

njt1rider

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EDL=??? I'm guessing electronic diff lock? I am not sure the answer to your question but we are installing a very early syncro setup so there are no electronics to it whatsoever (later versions had the rear electronic diff lock). This set-up just has the viscous coupler as far as I know, I am sure I will be learning all about the syncro variations. As-is this syncro set up is basically bolt on. I will be spending the next hour or 2 trying to figure out photos and hopefully have the first real update to this build...

Question: how does the syncro compare to AWD offered in other VAG vehicles (4 motion and such). DO they share parts and design?
 
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njt1rider

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OK HERE WE GOOOOO.


The 2003 had a blown engine so engine and auto transmission were removed.


The TDI is a 1Z and came out of an early Passat so it has the GP relay in the fuse block and a BK ECU.


The Syncro has a CTV trans with no electronic bits. From what I'm told its an older style of syncro with out an electronic locker.

I did not do any of the disassembly on the van, syncro, or TDI so I am currently trying to figure out how to put all the pieces together. I was able to pin out the wiring harness today and it all seems to be in working order. It needs to be dressed up a little but what do you expect from a 22 year old wiring harness. I have a few questions about the harness:

Can the Eurovan pedal pot be used in place of the A3? Both have 6 wires but different plugs. I haven't dug into the Eurovan schematics yet so I will probably be answering my own question but figured maybe someone could answer before I get that far. Eurovan plug on top and TDI on bottom:



Can anyone help identify the extra plugs left on the harness? I believe I have everything necessary to make the swap run, just curious what the extra bits are:
Plug next to MAF:


4 cut wires next to MAF and N18:


2 wire plug next to ECU:


What is this plug between G1 to G2:


If I remember correctly from my last swap, I need to wire the starter wire directly to the F1 plug. I think this connection is for the IMMO:


Some thoughts/plans for the swap:
-We have the BK ECU so we need to upgrade to an FA or GQ so we can tune this beast to make it driveable. Anyone have one for cheap? I read that an FA turns into a GQ when it is chipped. Is that correct?
-We will be using the Kerma K03/04 turbo with bigger nozzles for the injectors
-I will be resealing the whole engine here shortly and from there I will do the timing belt, engine mount tap, and dipstick relocation. From there we will install the upgraded balanced injectors, Turbo, and clutch then mate the engine and transmission together.
-We will use a G60 clutch
-We will use a front mount intercooler.

Parts we need to source:
-The wiring harness from the instrument cluster to the fuse block (U1 and U2)
-The electronic top part of the VSS going into the transmission
-Clutch hard line
 

Zeitgeist

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I suspect if there's any sharing with other AWD VAG vehicles, it's most likely with the Passat and Golf Country Syncros from the early '90's
 

njt1rider

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Oh! another thought! Is there reliable access to ETKA anymore? The last time I tried getting on the free site it was full of spam viruses.
 

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
I still have an older ETKA running on an older machine. It is no longer connected to the internet, though.

Just a note from your pics: I am sure you are probably going to replace it anyway, but it looks like the timing belt tensioner has been tensioned backwards. :eek:
 

Josh_WA

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I’m sure those extra two plugs near the ecu and maf were for the 5th injector probe and power for the 5th injector pump.

Did the engine not come with the Passat cluster and wire harness?
 

njt1rider

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Couple quick thoughts:

-Josh I believe you are correct as there is a port in the exhaust for the 5th injector. Looks like it has already been deleted. I have not had any luck finding the schematic to verify which plugs actually go to the fifth injector but I have everything else I need so I'm not too worried about it

-We have the Passat cluster but for some reason don't have the U1 and U2 wiring harness. We would like to upgrade to the newer style cluster so I have sent a request to Frans and we will see what happens. At the very least I need to find the instrument cluster harness.

-The ETKA website I was thinking of is oemepc.com I can get it to work on my phone but it still appears to be infected with a virus and wont open on my computer as my virus program blocks it. Any other solutions?

-I will not be able to use the gasser pedal in the Eurovan because it is an "otto" and I need a diesel. Once again a request to frans but I could also just fabricate one use the A3 Pot as I did in my last swap. I think having the proper pedal would be slicker and easier and more reliable but we will see.

-The connector plug going from G1/2 to G2/2 is the outside temperature sensor and I believe it connects to the instrument cluster via U1 or or U2

-We will need to source a newer style ECU for tuning purposes

-Will delete the EGR and use an EGT probe in the EGR delete plate

-The starter plug I was referencing is for a clutch switch so you cant start the vehicle without the clutch depressed
 
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Josh_WA

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A guy I helped through his 01 diesel conversion purchased a 2.5 tdi pedal from Europe and was plug and play, and bolted right on. It looked just like the vr6 pedal.

I put my egt probe into the egr delete plate on the exhaust header, but I think it’s not a very good setup. It’s only really grabbing heat from cyl 4. Maybe you have a different header.

Do you know if the ABL sump will need to be modified to fit, with the engine connected to the syncro transmission?
 

njt1rider

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-I would like to use the 2.5 TDI pedal but we will see if I hear from Frans. I picked up an A3 pedal pot just in case

-I am planning on putting the EGT probe in the EGR blanking plate but asked Kerma where they usually put it and will probably go with their recommendation.

-Sorry for the ignorance, what is the ABL sump?

-Sourced an FA ECU. Is there anything I need to consider with the wiring harness when switching to this ECU? (Mainly thinking glow plug circuit)

Found the only TDI in the pull and pays in Colorado so took the opportunity to snag up all the missing parts:


Too bad theres a group of guys that go around the junkyard and cut out the ECUs of every vehicle and put them on ebay. Pretty crappy if you ask me:


This Jetta has only been in the yard for about a week. Its a shame as it was a pretty well taken care of TDI. Looks like they snapped the TB belt. Engine and trans is still there if anyone in Colorado Springs is in need...Most definitely TB/piston/head impact issues:
 

Josh_WA

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ABL sump = ABL oilpan. If you do go with the old pot, there is someone who makes a factory style bracket, but you would still need to put together the pedal.
 

njt1rider

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Here is some info on the 02D Syncro transmission (gear ratios). I have not found the exact ratios for the CTV trans which I hope to find soon out of curiosity.
https://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=43863

Here is Justin's write up of the Syncro conversion. Will be dissecting that post pretty closely here soon:
http://greaseworks.blogspot.com/2015/12/2000-t4-eurovan-weekender-syncro.html

Josh, I would love the info of the guy who makes the bracket. I remember whatever option I used on my last swap was pretty straight forward and simple but the easier the better I say! Ideally I would go with the 2.5 Pot as taking out the pedal cluster is a HUGE PITA.

Oilpannnn Ohhhh I got ya. Hmm yeah I don't know what modification needs to be done. If I remember on my last swap the biggest difference of the oil pans was that the drain plug was on the front of the engine instead of the rear. I can't really see how the syncro will affect anything at the moment but maybe I will have an Ah Ha moment when I start putting it all together. If you have any more info on what you are talking about Id love to hear as it sounds like it could be important!
 

njt1rider

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Another issue I thought of so just wanted to throw on here:

With my 93 I just threw the A3 air box in there and called it good. I think I would like to use the stock Eurovan air box in this build. I think I have read where people have used the stock air box. I need to find that information. If I can use the Air Box and MAF from the Eurovan it would be very slick and convenient. Just glancing at the 2 MAFs side by side, the 1z has 6 wires where the EV has 5 wires...doesn't seem so promising...anyone have any insight on that?
 

Josh_WA

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This is the guy who put a 1z into his 02 EV. He used the stock airbox and managed to connect the 1z maf housing to it. He said he explained it in his video. If you’ve got time, you can watch through and see some differences to converting the 93. One is that the vr6 high side power steering line is perfect for reaching the low slung pump.
 

mogly

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Another issue I thought of so just wanted to throw on here:

With my 93 I just threw the A3 air box in there and called it good. I think I would like to use the stock Eurovan air box in this build. I think I have read where people have used the stock air box. I need to find that information. If I can use the Air Box and MAF from the Eurovan it would be very slick and convenient. Just glancing at the 2 MAFs side by side, the 1z has 6 wires where the EV has 5 wires...doesn't seem so promising...anyone have any insight on that?
The stock airbox pulls air through the RT fender intake grill-which the early short nose T4s did not have. The later SN fenders are bolt whereas the early SN fenders are spot welded on. I have interchanged them. The later SN fenders mount a little different behind the front bumper and the front bumper is secured differently but again are adaptable.
 

njt1rider

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Mogly, I dont think I understand what you are saying. Are you suggesting using a 93 airbox, MAF, and fender? I can already say that we are probably not willing to swap fenders. I would ideally use the stock 2003 EV airbox and MAF. If not that, then stock EV airbox with the TDI MAF
 
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mogly

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I had it in my head you were swapping into a '93. Maybe a case of one too many dark roasts this AM. haha. You're swapping into an '03 which ALREADY has the right fender intake grill- this is perfect. I'd suggest the factory ACV 2.5L air box and MAF, simple bolt in. If you work an alternative though, i'm all ears.
 

njt1rider

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Made some progress today:

-Power washed the engine and trans. They don't look half bad! They will look much better re sealed and mated :D

-Pulled the engine and transmission wiring harness out of the 03 EV. I thought the 93 looked like a rats nest back there...this fuse block is a nightmare

-lined some parts up to get the vision going. Realized the half shafts we have do not have tone rings for the ABS. I haven't verified but I think these are the 100mm half shafts and not the bigger 108s as mentioned in Justins blog. hmmm. I am hoping we can swap the outer ends with tone rings of the 108s onto the rest of the 100 shafts. Anyone have any thoughts on that?

-Hopefully making an order with Kerma in the next couple days and when we get that we can really start making some tangible progress on this project.

-How does removing the Engine and Trans from the 03 affect the canbus system? Seems like that could be a big issue but because there are a few 01-03 swaps running around I'm guessing its not a big deal?











 
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