2000 1.8t 5mt passat potential purchase.

carsaremytoys

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2016
Location
WI
TDI
01 Jetta TDI 5MT, 05 Passat wagon TDI 5MT
Hey all. The car has 190k, drives fine. It's offered by a shop owner that took it in for a bad clutch. The owner of the shop bought the car because it was more labor than the seller was willing to pay.
I drove it today and all works well, new clutch and a few other things. There is a new timing belt/water pump kit included. The shop owner told me that he pulled the cover and there weren't any cracks in the belt. Thus, didn't replace it.
He sounds like a legit fellow. Doesn't care to work on any more German cars BTW lol.
I'm looking for a fun to drive daily that doesn't look like ****. This car has been well preserved, no visible rust, big dents.
We fired it up and the engine was quiet. After the drive it was ticking, nothing obnoxious. I've read about high mileage 1.8ts and heard to stay away. But I wanted to check in with ya'll and see what you thought.
I've talked him down to $1750.
 

mjez

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2012
Location
Fox Lake, IL
TDI
00 Jetta
My ex-in-law had a 02 Passat with same engine but automatic transmission. He traded his in at 175k miles, not because there was an issue but because he's had it for a long time and got bored with it. Car was perfect and got sold to next owner within next week, I know since it was my buddy's dealership. He had no issues except for lack of heat at the begining of every other winter, once the coolant got flashed it was fine for next two, three winter's. He got his at about 60k or 70k miles and changed engine oil every 6-7k miles. Other than that just regular maintenance, brakes, one timing belt job.
Good luck

Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
 

carsaremytoys

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2016
Location
WI
TDI
01 Jetta TDI 5MT, 05 Passat wagon TDI 5MT
I bought it. Made the 40 mile drive home just fine. My scanner shows the water temp at 200, seller told me he replaced the t-stat. I don't know if he used the correct one. 200 isn't bad.
I can't read boost or vacuum. I imagine the map sensor is bad.
The seller pushed that I replace the timing and water pump, the car came with a kit. I don't know how much labor it is though.
I found an 05 facelifted model B5.5 I believe it's called. The seller is parting out. I wonder how much can transfer over? I could use new mirrors, bumper covers, and fenders.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
My ex-in-law had a 02 Passat with same engine
No he didn't.

2000 is a completely different engine than a 2002. 2000 could be either an AEB engine or an ATW engine, both the early type 150hp. The 2002 is the AWM 170hp engine, they share virtually no parts. Like the difference between an AHU and an ALH.

The early ones were bad about oil sludge, and they do not hold as much oil, which made the problem worse. Use proper oil, good oil filter, and keep it changed and topped up they are decent enough but not as refined as the later engines.

The mid-2001 facelift changed a lot more things, and none of the body parts are the same.
 

carsaremytoys

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2016
Location
WI
TDI
01 Jetta TDI 5MT, 05 Passat wagon TDI 5MT
I found the build sheet in the spare tire well, it appears I have the ATW engine. The oil level is at max and it is quite dirty. The air filter I pulled out was stamped 05!
So no chance I can make any of the body panels work? I have an 05 passat wagon, but I am not going to pull parts off of it to test fit onto this car.
Both mirrors are scratched and the drivers glass is bouncing around. I know that the facelifted models had turn signals in the mirrors. I'd have to get power to them certainly, but would they not fit at all cosmetically or mechanically?
I'd like to swap the fenders and bumpers as well as they are beat up, It's a Chicago bump and jump car...
 

carsaremytoys

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2016
Location
WI
TDI
01 Jetta TDI 5MT, 05 Passat wagon TDI 5MT
Oil hammer: does it sound like a bad map sensor If my scanner only reads 0?
It physically looks fine and is connected, the bolts may brake as there is a lot of rust on them, could be 20 years old.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
If the MAP sensor was bad, you'd have no power and a MIL request DTC.

The mirror mounted turn signals did not happen until middle 2004, so late 2001 through early 2004 (facelift B5, or B5.5) had fender mounted turn signals.

All of the body sheet metal was changed during that mid 2001 facelift. All of the lights were also changed. Lots of stuff changed. Sure, there are things that could work, but I have no good list of items that would. And there are things like brakes and axles and such that also had running changes during the B5's 1998 through 2005 model year run, as well as lots of parts from its sister car the Audi A4 and even some Audi A6 bits (which is a slightly larger "C" segment car).

Honestly I would just clean the car up, get caught up on all its PM, and enjoy it!
 

turbobrick240

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 18, 2014
Location
maine
TDI
2011 vw golf tdi(gone to greener pastures), 2001 ford f250 powerstroke
Doing the first couple of oil changes early (3 or 4k miles) with a good synthetic should help clean things up. Obviously you want to do the first change asap, if you haven't already.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
The three part BG kit works great for these early 1.8t engines. One part goes in the crankcase and gets run for a bit BEFORE the oil is changed, one part goes in the crankcase AFTER the oil is changed, the third part goes in the fuel tank (with a full tank of fresh fuel).

Know that engine requires premium (91 or higher) gasoline. It also only holds about 4 liters of oil, a 502.00 spec is required, and I would use a 5w40 or a 0w40. They also are supposed to get the large spin on oil filter, same one the older diesels use (the Mann number is W940/25 which is what I would recommend.

Don't forget it does have a serviceable fuel filter, mounted underneath slightly ahead and inboard of the right rear wheel.

Make sure the plenum chamber drains are clean and clear. LOTS of B5s suffer all kinds of bad things due to this filling with water. The drain under the master cylinder is especially bad, make sure that whole area is cleaned out. If necessary (and I would recommend it), take the battery out so you can get under the tray, and it is also a good idea to remove the cabin filter holder and clean the body and reseal the holder with some good sealant.

Check the brake master cylinder for a rotted hole near the back while there, as that can cause some issues you won't want to find out about. Yours being a stick means it also works the clutch hydraulics.

Check the front suspension over closely for separated bushings in the control arms (there are 8 of them) as well as the ball joints in each. Tie rods are also common failure items it seems, particularly on the earlier cars like yours.

These cars have a 5k mile service interval for the oil changes. Although with the larger oil filter and proper oil checking/topping up, you could go longer if your driving style is such that it does not see many short trips.
 

carsaremytoys

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2016
Location
WI
TDI
01 Jetta TDI 5MT, 05 Passat wagon TDI 5MT
Thanks all! I have the liqui moly and the extended filter coming from ECS. Some redline MT90 already in the garage. G12 coolant as well.
What could be causing the lack of reading boost/vacuum?
 

andreigbs

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2004
Location
Walworth Co., Wisconsin
TDI
N/A
Maybe your gauge isn't reading vacuum, only boost. You could check manually with a gauge but may be more trouble than it's worth if all you want is to check it.

If it were mine, in addition to all the things Oilhammer advised, I'd tap a line into the intake air path and add a combo boost/vacuum gauge that I'd mount to the top of the steering wheel. You want to keep an eye on boost AND vacuum, as that will provide much useful information about how well the turbo is boosting and how well it is controlled, along with whether you have (or develop) vacuum and/or boost leaks.

A big deal on a turbo engine and worth the trouble, in my opinion.

Congrats on the car. I had a 2004 facelift B5.5 that literally saved my life.
 

carsaremytoys

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2016
Location
WI
TDI
01 Jetta TDI 5MT, 05 Passat wagon TDI 5MT
It's the torque app on my phone. Works in all my other cars, even non boosted. I can read everything else. Im thinking what ever sensor sends this info is bad, I thought it was the MAP, but I'm not sure. If I can figure it out, I can tell if I have any vacuum leaks and also If I'm boosting properly.
I am also having a hesitation on acceleration. Jerky, like power is falling off. I have a few more maintenance things to take care of. Plugs and fuel filter.
 

carsaremytoys

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2016
Location
WI
TDI
01 Jetta TDI 5MT, 05 Passat wagon TDI 5MT
I ordered a forge 008 a couple days ago, I am trying to hear some boost noises! I know it's not a DSM though, those days are gone. I don't care how old I get, I'm always going to want to hear my toys!

I got her up in the air today, changed the oil, pulled off a little pennzoil filter. Put the large mann filter on, damn! I was expecting a longer filter, but fatter too! Some liquimoly oil as well, I'm giving the best life I can! Spent a couple cans of brake clean on all the oil build up. I bought the green liquimoly too, the stuff I can find leaks with a uv light, still need to get the uv light.
Took out the autolite plugs and put in some NGK BR6... platinums. The kid at the store said "platinums are too cold for your car" I corrected him stating that isn't what changes the heat range, but he didn't care. I know to put in what VW originally put in.
I did a compression test too. 120-125, I didn't bother oiling to find out where the leak is, doesn't matter at 190k miles, the whole engine is getting rebuilt at that point if need be.
But clean coil packs, no oil residue on or around the plugs. I know its low, but it's consistent.
Took a look around and it looks like original exhaust, I did hear a small leak around the DP. And I threw a p113 code just a mile before I got home. Sounds like an o2 sensor, maybe an IAT sensor, but I keep my eye on things and IAT senses what I think it should be at. Basically outside temp + a little.
Took a look at the fuel filter and it looks new, but it's aluminum... Had stepless (vw) clamps on it though, they aren't rare, just not worm clamps that the backyard mechanic has a stock of. I do still plan to change the fuel filter.
Took it for a short drive and got on it a bit, felt great, no stutters/hiccups.
I do 75-80 miles a day minimum, so I'll know more soon. 220 miles at half a tank..

Unrelated, but I know I'm jacking this forum with a gasser, love this place and the lack of hate for even the noobish of questions. But there really isn't a forum for this, right?
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
Well I for one have no issue helping folks here with VAG gassers, I know them all pretty well (many of the newer ones TOO well, unfortunately).

Compression testing on those needs to be done with the throttle body inlet hose loose, and the throttle pushed wide open. Otherwise they will not give an accurate reading (this is true of any engine, but especially these).

However, I would be more concerned with a consistent reading across all four cylinders, and you have that and it is within the allowable limit. Chances are the rings are coked up which is what the above mentioned BG product works extremely well to take care of.

It is fairly easy to verify the cam/crank timing to make sure the timing belt was installed correctly, but the chain tensioner guides can also be worn but typically that will result in noise and CKP/CMP sensor correlation DTCs. The exhaust cam is driven by the belt, but the intake cam is driven off of the exhaust cam by a cute little chain at the rear of the head.

The breather system may be the source of some of your oil mess on that side of the engine (living under the intake manifold area), and oil cooler seals sometimes require attention too.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
The car that is the subject of this thread requires 91+ octane gasoline. Not sure what the cost is (I never bother to look) but I think it is closer to #2 diesel.
 

carsaremytoys

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2016
Location
WI
TDI
01 Jetta TDI 5MT, 05 Passat wagon TDI 5MT
I've been feeding this little beast with 93. Ran some liquimoly oil for 2600 miles, Did the 3 step BG a couple hundred miles ago. Running a stage 2 tune now (+60hp and 70ft/lbs)
upgraded to 2.0 coil packs and a step colder plugs. Rid the air box and installed a silicone turbo inlet pipe with a large cone filter (didn't change air intake temp at all) I thought that it would, but I guess because the turbo being on the passenger side and running all the way to the IC on the drivers side cools it well.
Compression test came back between 125 and 130psi! The good oil used, the three step BG product, whatever, It's great! And I'm getting 30mpg
 

carsaremytoys

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2016
Location
WI
TDI
01 Jetta TDI 5MT, 05 Passat wagon TDI 5MT
I lost the Jetta TDI and back half of the passat in a garage fire.
I was far from finished with the passat, really ran great and I had a blast DD this car!
I've been searching for a few months now and just today snatched up a 99 1.8T 5MT wagon. 147k miles.
I want to move my upgrades to the wagon. I noticed they aren't completely the same.
The wagon is a build date 6/98, the sedan that I modded and has been back half burned is 9/99.
The first difference that I noticed is that it has a throttle cable.
Also, it doesn't make boost and the coolant temp doesn't get there, I suspect a stuck open T-stat. The coolant also isn't red... Makes heat though.
I want to move over what I can from the back half burned sedan, but I don't know how close these cars are...
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
Those are two different engines. Check the engine code. It is on the upper timing cover (although likely not legible), etched into the ear at the top of the head near the cam sensor, or on the build tag in the trunk (I know one is burnt).

1998 and 1999 model year Passat's use the AEB engine (old style block from the '70s, 150hp).
2000 could be AEB (very early cars) or ATW. The ATW is also still the old style block, but has a few differences. ATWs also have an early and late version unto themselves with regards to the timing belt. The ATW is the very last version 1.8t based on the old style block. The AEB had no variable intake, the ATW does.
2001 got the AUG, which is the new style engine, then later on in 2001 the whole car got a facelift and the AWM engine, although the new engine got installed about a month ahead of the facelift so there are a handful of early 2001 Passats (look just like a 1998-2000) with the updated engine.

The Audi A4s had a couple extra engine codes mixed in, too. Which is why it is so important to know the specific engine, because "1.8t" means nothing.
 

carsaremytoys

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2016
Location
WI
TDI
01 Jetta TDI 5MT, 05 Passat wagon TDI 5MT
I completely forgot about that! The sedan is an ATW and the wagon is in fact an AEB.
Probably not a good idea to swap my stage 2 ECU into the wagon?!
 
Top