2 Post Lift Question

[KrashDH]

Hey Guys;

Car will be going on a lift here in the next few days to get a custom exhaust welded up.
Lift points in the FSM are the reinforced sheetmetal for jacking. I've already had a tire monkey shop crumple the pinch welded sheetmetal from jacking from the incorrect, non-reinforced section (it's been repaired).

Unfortunately (and hopefully this will change soon) I've never had the luxury of getting the vehicle off the ground with a lift.
Those that have shops or personally have them, where's the best position for the arm pads on the vehicle as to not do any damage and clear the pinch welds?

Thanks!

 

[burpod]

perhaps i'm not doing it right, but in my gravel driveway i generally jack on the big lower control arm bolt usually with a small 2x4 block, and at the rear i use the rear axle beam bushing area. perhaps it's not the "best" spot, but hasn't caused any problems over multiple jackings over multiple years. those pinch welded sheet metal jack points suck. most of mine were ruined long ago when i was a newb and not getting it in the exact right spot, although it seems like they're a really weak jack point anyway.... just my 2cents

my mk1 rabbit pinch weld jack points have long since been obliterated too lol... i use rear axle beam corners and also where the front control arm bolt is for that, although it's structured differently

 

[Zak99b5]

In the front I usually set the jack stands under the big subframe bolts (jack it with the pinch weld spots), or, as Burpod does, under the rear LCA bolts.

Rear gets supported as Burpod, using the axle beam bushing housings.

Aren't there some pads that fit in holes underneath for a proper lift that you can buy? I believe they replace four plastic plugs.

 

[KrashDH]

perhaps i'm not doing it right, but in my gravel driveway i generally jack on the big lower control arm bolt usually with a small 2x4 block, and at the rear i use the rear axle beam bushing area. perhaps it's not the "best" spot, but hasn't caused any problems over multiple jackings over multiple years. those pinch welded sheet metal jack points suck. most of mine were ruined long ago when i was a newb and not getting it in the exact right spot, although it seems like they're a really weak jack point anyway.... just my 2cents

my mk1 rabbit pinch weld jack points have long since been obliterated too lol... i use rear axle beam corners and also where the front control arm bolt is for that, although it's structured differently

Yeah I've used all of your spots you mention for jacking as well, or putting jack stands under those areas, but with a lift, I'm wondering if you try to put the pads there when the suspension droops I'd be wondering if it would cause any interference/binding. Since we won't technically be jacking the car but needing to put the pads in an area that supports it jet lets the lift arms clear everything else

 

[KrashDH]

In the front I usually set the jack stands under the big subframe bolts (jack it with the pinch weld spots), or, as Burpod does, under the rear LCA bolts.

Rear gets supported as Burpod, using the axle beam bushing housings.

Aren't there some pads that fit in holes underneath for a proper lift that you can buy? I believe they replace four plastic plugs.

We're not talking about jacking points here for driveway work, I know where to jack the car and put jack stands for driveway/garage projects.
I'm more concerned if I put the lift pads in the spots mentioned (suspension bits that articulate) that I might have trouble clearing body panels and such.
As well I don't know about pads that fit in certain holes, but since this is not my lift nor my shop, I won't be purchasing a set of pads. I'll do that once I have a shop/lift of my own.

 

[Zak99b5]

We're not talking about jacking points here for driveway work, I know where to jack the car and put jack stands for driveway/garage projects.

I know. That's why I referenced the lift pads that get fitted in the "frame."

Linky

 

[jmodge]

I’ve got a 4’ lift. I use an 8”x8”x2” board, Set under the factory lift points, cross grain with the pinch welds. no problems on either car. I had some I relieved 3/8” deep, but they were more hassle than they were worth, IMO.

 

[KrashDH]

I’ve got a 4’ lift. I use an 8”x8”x2” board, Set under the factory lift points, cross grain with the pinch welds. no problems on either car. I had some I relieved 3/8” deep, but they were more hassle than they were worth, IMO.

OK so you're basically just going from pinch weld to pinch weld with the boards perpendicular to the sheetmetal. Boards give you some extra clearance?

 

[burpod]

myself, i don't see how it would cause a problem. i've had several cars jacked up on all 4s in those spots without issue, like when i remove a trans, i get the whole car up so that it's level, pretending like it's a lift however, if i'm doing it wrong or in such a way that could cause damage (tho i haven't ever seen anyway), i'd like to know too...

 

[KrashDH]

myself, i don't see how it would cause a problem. i've had several cars jacked up on all 4s in those spots without issue, like when i remove a trans, i get the whole car up so that it's level, pretending like it's a lift however, if i'm doing it wrong or in such a way that could cause damage (tho i haven't ever seen anyway), i'd like to know too...

Right, yeah, I guess that's what I'm after, if those are generally go-to spots for a post lift to clear everything and not tweak the suspension

 

[burpod]

dont' always trust me tho. there's a huge lump in the wife's golf rear passenger foot area... i can't quite remember what i did, but something stupid, i either jacked it in a spot i thought was ok (maybe rear pinch weld was shot and i was doing rear axle bushings? i can't remember) or maybe was doing something else sketchy and car fell on the jack and pushed up the floor pan. but nobody else has noticed it so i just try and forget it's there

 

[jmodge]

OK so you're basically just going from pinch weld to pinch weld with the boards perpendicular to the sheetmetal. Boards give you some extra clearance?

Nope, 8” long 2”x8’s, four pieces, one on each of the lift feet. I figured they spread load better then the just metal cups on the pinch welds. I believe I actually did need them for clearance of the unibody beam up front though. I actually have to drive on planks to get on the lift, that’s another subject though

 

[jmodge]

Were the two post lift the arms of the Lyft wouldn’t be underneath the car like on mine. Suspension hanging doesn’t hurt anything

 

[KrashDH]

Nope, 8” long 2”x8’s, four pieces, one on each of the lift feet. I figured they spread load better then the just metal cups on the pinch welds. I believe I actually did need them for clearance of the unibody beam up front though. I actually have to drive on planks to get on the lift, that’s another subject though

Oh ok got ya now. Interesting about driving on planks, might need to bring my ramps. Although he had a lowered, 240Z in there when I went over, pretty sure that thing was as low as my Golf

 

[burpod]

OH MAN i've been wanting a Z car ever since i was a kid.... tdi swap 280zx ... maybe one day....

 

[KrashDH]

OH MAN i've been wanting a Z car ever since i was a kid.... tdi swap 280zx ... maybe one day....

My co worker's "gearhead" chat channel we have, everyone owns them and are hoarding them. I don't even fit on on the channel, pretty sure it's mandatory to own a minimum of 2 Z's, running or not. Not sure how I got in...

 

[jmodge]

80E159A1-E71C-42E2-A5F0-34F70EF5ADDF.jpeg

• jmodge
• May 6, 2022

Lift points 2

3DF49E4A-3050-46FF-A846-B91FB156D928.jpeg

• jmodge
• May 6, 2022

Lift points 1

This is what I mean

 

[KrashDH]

80E159A1-E71C-42E2-A5F0-34F70EF5ADDF.jpeg

• jmodge
• May 6, 2022

Lift points 2

3DF49E4A-3050-46FF-A846-B91FB156D928.jpeg

• jmodge
• May 6, 2022

Lift points 1

This is what I mean

Ah perfect, ok that's what I was kind of envisioning, photos clear it up. Thanks!

 

[STDOUBT]

I got these for our '01 and '03.
For use with 4-point lifts only.

 

[Mongler98]

This is all fine and dandy until a small spot of rust ruins the day.
You can make or buy pinch point holders. Just resting on the metal like that is a 50/50 of crushinating bs.
Proper pinch point attachments.... worth every penny. But 90% of shops and post lifts just use frame points

 

[KrashDH]

This is all fine and dandy until a small spot of rust ruins the day.
You can make or buy pinch point holders. Just resting on the metal like that is a 50/50 of crushinating bs.
Proper pinch point attachments.... worth every penny. But 90% of shops and post lifts just use frame points

I've got a couple of pinch weld pucks but not sure I have 4. May have to try and find a couple more. I suppose when we get the car there if we can reach the control arm bolt and rear beam with the arms, that may be the best option so long as the arms clear the panel. I'm just slightly hesitant because the pinch welds have been repaired once, they'll be more prone to damage this go around.

Unfortunately they didn't add another rib of reinforcement bar which I asked them to do since insurance was paying.

 

[jmodge]

You can cut a relief in a block of wood with a cabinet saw for the pinch weld to rest in. It can’t fold that way. It’s a PIA to line up by oneself though.

 

[Mongler98]

I was about to say a block of wood. Just make the cut 90* to the grain or it may split. The point is not to rest on the rocker. It's to ensure the forces of lifting dont try and bend it. The point is for it to hold it strait.

 

[mittzlepick]

Front frame rail near fuel cooler, rear swingarm mounts pinch area never trustworthy on rust belt mk4s plus prevent damage to metal

 

[KrashDH]

Front frame rail near fuel cooler, rear swingarm mounts pinch area never trustworthy on rust belt mk4s plus prevent damage to metal

Fuel cooler....?

 

[jmodge]

Fuel cooler....?

Auto trans Mk4’s had a fuel cooler underneath on the passenger side in the fuel supply line from the tank.

 

[KrashDH]

Auto trans Mk4’s had a fuel cooler underneath on the passenger side in the fuel supply line from the tank.

Ah ok makes sense, I have a 5sp

 

[Nuje]

With my QuickJack 5000, there are simply high-density rubber blocks that go under the pinch welds, front and back. Gets the car up to 21" in the air and has been rock-solid and no damage to the pinch welds. The kit comes with two sets of rubber blocks (1.5" and 3", I'd estimate), and it's fine to stack them, too.

 

[KrashDH]

With my QuickJack 5000, there are simply high-density rubber blocks that go under the pinch welds, front and back. Gets the car up to 21" in the air and has been rock-solid and no damage to the pinch welds. The kit comes with two sets of rubber blocks (1.5" and 3", I'd estimate), and it's fine to stack them, too.

The car will be about 70" the air, not that it matters. I'm just not sure I want to trust already repaired pinch welds that high.

 

[Nuje]

Of course, the force of it hitting the ground should it come off is going to increase exponentially, but like you said, 7" or 70" - the weight on the supporting system is the same.