2.0 gasser to tdi help meeee-sos

[hnilson60]

Alright I'm pretty new to this but here it goes. I had a 2001 tdi pd with a salvage title and it needed some suspension stuff so I decided it would be cheaper to buy a golf shell, the last 3 days I've need swapping everything over and I am out of ideas for what is wrong. It's and auto so I pulled the tdi harness and plugged it in up by the driver door where all the colorfull plugs are. As far as glow plugs I couldnt figure out how to use the relay so I just jumped a wire from the battery to activate them. The car sometimes starts for 1 second and dies instantly, I have no idea what to do, are there any other well documented forum I can look at?

 

[G60ING]

Immobilizer, swap the instrument cluster and ignition switch key ring.

 

[hnilson60]

I did all that I and it still just turns over

 

[hnilson60]

Do I need the 109 relay?

 

[P2B]

Relay 109 supplies power to the ECU.

 

[d24tdi]

Forget about the glow plugs for now, if everything else is wired in correctly and immobilizer is happy the car will readily start and run without them in anything but the most frigid temperatures.... Not likely in August. That's not what's preventing the car from running.

Given your description of the situation it sounds like the electrical system transfer was not done completely. Do you have wiring diagram for both the donor vehicle and recipient shell? What year is the Golf you are installing the parts into? And give more details on the donor vehicle as well -- there is no such thing as a 2001 TDI PD in North America, although they did have them in Europe as early as 01 IIRC. If your TDI donor was a 2001 that would make it an ALH, which is the series before the PD and a whole different technology suite. If it's a PD in a Mk4 car it would have to be a 2004 or later (BEW). These details all matter in terms of what it will take to make it work. Even different years of the same engine code can have significant electrical differences, for example a 2001 vs a 2002 ALH is a different animal with several electrical incompatibilities.

In a vehicle like this you can't get away with halfway-hacking the electrical system together and expect everything (or anything) to function. Need it to be complete and fully functional. Bypassing relays and such won't lead to success. It's easy enough to get it assembled correctly anyway and will save massive headache. Best move would be to cease trying to get it to run using workarounds, and instead focus on ensuring the conversion has been fully executed. Once you have the details sorted it'll run without any struggle. Bolting the physical parts in is no challenge as you already know. The devil will be in the details of making the electrical configuration work. Just plugging in the connectors to the right color locations may not be enough. Depending on how the donor and recipient vehicle match up, you may need a different wiring harness and to make changes on the chassis side.

Do you have VCDS or another specialized VAG capable diagnostic platform? You NEED that to know what issues are occurring and give direction on what to pursue. A scan of engine controller will tell you what the reason is for why it's not running. If no communication, then there's your first issue to go after.

 

[hnilson60]

Alright, I'll start on that, it had a fule cooler so I thought it was a PD but it is an alh. The donor is 2001 tdi Jetta into 2005 golf gl 2.0
Yesterday I get the car started for 30 seconds then it beeped and shutdown, the code Im getting are these.
P1562
P1441
P1549
P0380
P1619

Would any of these stop the car from starting?
Also is there anyone in Utah who has don't this before and could point me in the right direction. I will pay you for your time

 

[d24tdi]

Have you looked up those codes? All of them are circuit fault codes that involve major functional items for the engine management components.

You have unresolved wiring issues to sort out. Very difficult for us here to help with limited info.

Do you have VCDS? How did you retrieve these codes?

Automatic ALH cars have fuel coolers. Is the recipient Golf also an automatic? Manual? Which car's transmission is being used?

In any case it's a good sign that you have communication and are getting fault codes -- at least you have something to work off of there.

 

[d24tdi]

What did you do for converting the fuel system from gas to diesel? What's the fuel supply? What was done with the in-tank pump on the gas car? Is it still there/anything running it? Bypass to limit pressure to the diesel injection pump? Fuel lines flushed to diesel? Certain there's no air in lines?

What's the beeping you mentioned? That is not what's causing the car to shut off, but it could indicate more wiring connection issues. Oil pressure or coolant level lights on?

Extensive and detailed pictures or a video tour of everything you did will be critical to getting good help, including a video of it running or trying to run and the problem it's having. We really have no idea what this setup looks like and how you have configured it. Swapping engines from chassis to chassis, gas to diesel, different years/transmissions, etc can be done in a million different ways and result in a million different issues depending on what was/wasn't done and how. Pretty much pointless to speculate on possible causes with the background we have so far here.

 

[d24tdi]

Another hint: there are still questions in my earlier post that you didn't answer yet. If you want folks on here to donate their free knowledge and help, a good way to encourage it is to read the responses carefully and answer EVERY question. We're not asking for fun, we're asking because we believe the answers will help lead you in the direction of solutions.

For me, if I'm doing my best to help on something like this but we're getting nowhere because the flow of info from you to us is not working well and advice is not being taken / questions not being answered, then I'm going to give up quickly. Same for others, I would bet.

The conversion you are doing is one that others here have done before, and while there are complexities to it, it is absolutely a viable project that can succeed if you can get the details right. The knowledge to fix everything you are up against is on this forum, and folks will be glad to assist if you help us help you.

 

[hnilson60]

Sorry for no responses. I've been pretty busy and kind of put on the back burner but I'm back now. As far as what I've done recently, I've been trying to bleed the injectors of air because I was talking to a buddy of mine. He said that could be it and so I've been cranking it and it's not shooting out that high. It's kind of dribbling up and it looked like a clear plastic tube that there wasn't that much diesel going through. So I added the gas fuel pickup back in and wired it into a pump diesel to the pump cuz I saw some people on YouTube doing that so I did that and that helped fuel pressure get to the pump and so from there I've been cranky on it. Still no start. I got it started yesterday for about 40 seconds a couple times and then it just quit. As far as the codes I'm getting, it's a EGR valve stuck open. So yeah I don't know so much about that. That could be part of the cause there I suppose. And a boot pressure regulator valve, is open or short to ground. But diesel is getting into the injectors. I don't know if it's enough. I need to start it to bleed it properly and so should I go back to the diesel fuel pickup that I added to it or should I keep the gas one on there? As far as the wiring goes on the to wire in the 109 relay to power the ECU, what I did was I removed the blue wires out of the old fuse box and added them into this fuse box and red and power right to it and so it's wired in correctly. It's turning on but it is flickering. I read somewhere that someone else take a video and I'll show you what I've done but I'm just I'm ready to sell this or burn it down or something at this point. So if anyone needs a $1,000 POS let me know

 

[r3gill]

A stuck open egr valve on my 2006 BRM was hard to no start for me, if it did start it ran like poop and engine quit running within a few seconds with lots of black/blue smoke. I guess the exhaust gasses were going directly into the combustion chamber and engine didn't like it. You can try removing the egr valve, manually move it over to close position and remove the vaccum line going to the egr valve, then try starting the engine.