1998 TDI no start after Timing Belt and Water Pump!!

[TDI_guy92]

So to start off I'm new here. I drive a 1998 Jetta TDI 5 speed. I decided to finally replace my water pump which has gradually started to leak worse and worse. So I also did the timing belt. My first time doing this as well... My first shot, I had the wrong mark on the flywheel... I had the pump locked with a tap that fit nice and snug, and the cam with a feeler gauge and some flat steel. Well when I got the belt on and went to rotate the engine at the crank with my breaker bar I had some resistance. So I obviously knew somethig wasn't right. so I stopped and found the RIGHT timing mark. Got the belt on again, rotated the engine at the crank 3-4 times with the breaker bar and everything went smooth. But when I went to start the car NOTHING! Nothing but a big cloud of blueish smoke from under the hood near the intake manifold... Do I have it out of time yet? I checked and rechecked and everything seems to be perfect! Did I bend the valves by screwing up the first time... Maybe the cloud of smoke is from it being slightly out of time?
Thank you in advance everyone!

 

[minilooker]

You sure the engine timing was not touch/moved when you replaced the timing belt?

 

[ToddA1]

As long as you didn't force it, with the breaker bar, you should be fine.

How is it you had the wrong timing mark on the flywheel? There's only one.

You may need to jump the IP sprocket one tooth. Many, including myself had needed to do this.

-Todd

 

[TDI_guy92]

I rechecked the timing a few times after having the belt on.

I didn't force the breaker bar with the wrong mark. The previous owner had a notch marked a few teeth down that I thought was TDC because I at first couldn't find the actual mark.
I'll try setting the IP a tooth ahead. I tried the whole loosening the bolts on the pump and twisting the pump and retighting the bolts, but that didn't work...

 

[ToddA1]

Jumping the IP 1 tooth was discussed, recently. Although you have the static timing correct, you may not be getting enough advance to start.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=386593

-Todd

 

[tripl-e]

1.Check the flywheel timing mark AFTER the belt tensioner is set. Often the act of tensioning the timing belt will move the engine slightly and create a timing error.

2. You say you used 'flat metal' and feeler gauge(s) to locate the camshaft. The locating slot in the cam is offset so the factory tool can only be fitted when the camshaft is in the correct position. A thin piece of flat stock could be fitted with the cam 180 degrees from its proper location. In the proper location the lobes for cyl. #1 will be up and those for cyl. #4 will be down (1 is at TDC compression and 4 at TDC overlap). Additionally, the feeler gauges should be fitted in equal thicknesses on both sides of the cam locating tool so it is exactly centered. Piling them all up on one side turns the cam away from its exact center location and adds error to the timing.

Precision is critical in this job.

 

[TDI_guy92]

I got it to run and it was running good, started right up. Put about 50 miles on it. THen there was a loud pop. Loss of power and it sounds like it's misfiring... What happened now??

 

[TDI_guy92]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBdX4kWoZSo&feature=youtu.be

Here is a video of what it sounds like...

 

[ToddA1]

I'd line the timing marks up again and hopefully nothing moved.

-Todd

 

[Steve Addy]

^^^what he said...

 

[Abacus]

1.Check the flywheel timing mark AFTER the belt tensioner is set. Often the act of tensioning the timing belt will move the engine slightly and create a timing error.

Precision is critical in this job.

Actually, the flywheel should not move when replacing the timing belt. This is the reason the cam sprocket is left loose when adjusting the tensioner. The cam will also stay locked but the IP is allowed some movement, but it's so small as to not be an issue. This is why I always use a cranklock rather than just eyeballing it, not that that can't be done.