1992 Toyota pickup ALH - build and questions

[03Golfer]

Hello,

So I've started moving towards swapping my 1992 pickup. I will use this thread to post questions and things I learn related to the swap. I started a separate build for the engine build, and decided to keep that thread separate and dedicated specifically to the engine/internals/turbo/tuning.

ALH performance build for a heavy vehicle

Hi, I'm building an ALH for my Toyota pickup, and debating which bottom end parts to use (stock ALH or otherwise). I'd rather overbuild and undertune given the weight. My main concern is reliability, keeping the EGTs down on highway hills. I don't see a lot of heavy vehicles running much more...

forums.tdiclub.com

I'm using an EV guy adapter plate to my W56, truck was originally a 22re. I will use a 5VZFE clutch on a late 22re flywheel machined to suit. BHW rotating assembly in the ALH block (cheaper to use complete BHW shortblock but I prefer a fresh bore/hone with torque plate and the ARP studs anyway). Thanks to those before me for laying out the groundwork (Jimbote mainly I think but I've scoured many threads for ideas).

My first question/ observation is that the northwest fab/TD conversions adapter set to 0* isn't setting up at 0* measured from the deck or oil pan surface. I'm getting ~6*. The frame is level, and a level on the top 2 bellhousing bolts shows the trans is level. (I actually replaced the transfer case mount with a 4xinnovations one thinking I was so far off from a sagged mount. But no). I called NW fab initially and the guy said the deck should be level. I'll be calling them back to double check but wondering if anyone else has noticed this. And yes, the adapter plate is assbled to the 0* holes not the 12* holes. I attached a Google drive link for photos (setup is only rough, with bellhousing sitting on a 2x4. But it's close enough to see the engine won't be level).

My other observation is that I will likely be cutting and welding the front of the oil pan to clear the SAS steering linkage. Looks like I could tilt the engine up to give myself a bit more clearance but I'm going to try to avoid this to keep my driveline angles correct, as the front axle has a cut and turn and is all working great.

Looking forward to input.

Thanks

Tdi - Google Drive

drive.google.com

 

[PickleRick]

I fit a 2 inch body lift on my 87 4runner, not sure if that's something you'd run or not. With it I fit the aluminum and metal cheap hybrid pan with no mods other than moving my steering damper mount lower on the frame to keep from hitting the crank pulley.

You're sas so I don't know your travel needs.

 

[03Golfer]

Might go with body lift, but would prefer not to. Would rather keep centre of gravity low and not do a drivetrain lift. I looked into the alu/steel pans and decided it would be easier just to cut and weld the straight aluminum pan. I'm mostly curious what angle those that have used the TD conversions wound up with. I find it odd that their motor mount kit has right angle gussets but the engine is on a slight angle, makes me think I'm missing something.

Did some wiring investigation, I've gone with a fast forward harness. I would prefer to use the stock toyota wiring to interface with the ECU/harness, instead of wiring it directly to the cluster or switches. This way the harness can be removed as per OEM, and the OEM fuses are retained where I'd like them. The 2 main connectors on the toyota side are EE1 and EE2, found next to the stock ECU, right side kick panel. I normally use terminal location/pin number to identify which wire is which but had better luck using wire colour this time around. The pin numbers just didn't match up for me (I'm using EWD115F which I think is the euro/aus wiring diagram). I've included the pin locations according to me, since they didn't match up with the manual.

Anyway here's my findings:

EE1, the white connector on the left in my photo.

red/white (pin 7) back up lights ground
black/orange (pin 8) back up lights power
yellow/blue (pin 11) oil pressure sender to gauge
yellow/green (pin 14) temp sender to gauge

EE2, the grey connector on the right

black/white (pin 2) start signal from ignition switch, goes through clutch sw.
black/green (pin 5) B+, fed through 15A efi fuse
black/red (pin 8) injector power feed, switched through ignition sw.
blue (pin 9) diagnostic for fuel pump (gets power when fuel pump switched on by circuit opening relay)
green/yellow (pin 11) switched ground for fuel pump relay - ground this to activate fuel pump relay (aka circuit opening relay) full time
white/red (pin 12) power from EFI relay (another switched ignition)
purple (pin 13) check engine light - ground to turn on check engine light
green/yellow #2 (pin 14) don't know what this one does but it does NOT activate circuit opening relay
white/black (pin 15) 4wd light - ground to switch on light
green white (pin 16) brake light switch

Additionally one will need to use the original toyota alternator exciter circuit so the battery light works properly. I will definitely be upgrading the actual charge wire though, direct to battery.

The seat belt light has not worked since I bought the truck (disabled by previous owner) so I stole the terminal from it in order to add my 'glow plug indicator' AKA low fuel light (these trucks have a low fuel light in the cluster but no wiring going to it). Needs a switched ground and the light turns on. Ideally, I would find a cluster that has a glow plug light and steal the screen/filter/bulb cover/logo whatever you want to call it... but there's only so much time and having the factory correct glow plug light is pretty low on the list of priorties.

 

[PickleRick]

I used the Passat gauge cluster in my 87 as clusters for that era with a tach are $$$$. I had no issues keeping my VW alternator and ac compressor. The wiring harness from fast forward tells you where to run the engine wiring harness for the battery light for proper charging and shut down.


For the AC I bypassed all Toyota wiring/controller and installed a trinary switch from vintage ac for safety purposes and electric fan control.


Keep in mind the VW oil pan has a forward pickup. You'll usually find a body lift usually has less effect on cog than a suspension lift as the chassis is not being raised.

 

[PickleRick]

Also not sure if this helps or not but I slid my drive train forward to fit the diesel tandem pump on the firewall.

I needed a double cardan drive shaft because of the angle my some 2.5 to 3 inch suspension lift created and longer than the stock drive shaft. A 3rd gen 4 runner 5 speed has a 49 inch drive shaft double cardan. Cheap in junk yards or rebuilt online. Less than half the cost of a custom shaft.

 

[03Golfer]

This is the correct place to hook up the alternator (edit no not correct if using VW ECU controlled alternator). Just saving some work for others who may be tempted to hook up directly to the cluster. When I spoke to David he mentioned most of his customers wired directly to the cluster, something I'd like to avoid to retain something that resembles OEM. (Edit to say i did hook most things up to the plugs in the RF footwell, but not alternator)

This adapter plate gives room for the pump as it is about 2" thick. I've already got double cardan shafts. The real issue with single case SAS Toyotas is the front shaft is so short that the front driveshaft has a horrible angle that moving the drivetrain either up or forward limits downtravel (due to driveshaft angle limitations) and increases the likelihood of vibrations in 4x4. Like I said I've done a cut and turn so much less an issue in this case, just posting for others that may be facing this. I will consider making room for the pan, but would much rather cut it. Yes the pump and pickup are in the way, the pickup would get extended to the deep sump I would be adding to the rear (like the 22re pan). Went with BRM oil pump sprocket as it is slightly smaller, will give more room to cut.

 

[PickleRick]

My rig was originally a 22re and automatic so I had to mod my shift tunnel cut out anyway. The r150 and w56 are near identical in fitment for shifter and shafts.

That being said I had to move my transmission cross Mount brackets forward about 3 to 4 inches to clear the tandem pump. My DCS adapter is also 2 inches thick.

Yours being a later model may fit differently but I don't think you'll be able to leave the trans in its original position.

The more level with the frame you stay with the engine deck the better the clearance/further back you can push the engine in the bay back towards the original but that puts your rear tc output flange at a a steeper angle. I'd rather my rear drive shaft fit perfectly and my front be dedicated for off road only. Due to less than favorable angle. I think I left off at a 5 degree drive train slope to rear. If I was ok with stock height springs and 31 inch tires I may been ok with a level engine and maybe original single cardan drive shaft.


So far my favorite part of this conversion has been the ifs. I like not having to worry about the front diff smashing the pan. Unfortunately the engine drain sits right above my diff.

 

[03Golfer]

Yes, you bring up a good point. One more reason to trim the pan, to give more clearance to the vacuum pump.

My truck sees freeway speed in 4wd due to snow, and the driveshaft angles are currently very good, thus I would like to keep the trans where it is from factory. I did test fit the pump and it looked like it would fit, but it is very close. I will see once the mounts are tacked up. I'm leaving all options open but this is my preferred method

The thing with a SASd ifs truck is that there's not much up travel anyway. I have bump stops setup right now, probably 1.5" from ride height, so I'm not concerned about hitting the pan.

 

[jmodge]

1st gen Tacoma ALH

I flew out to Reno last week and drove this Taco back to VT. One of the best weeks of my life. My good friend since forever met me out there, and we had a grand old time. My friend Matt out on Rt50 in Nevada. 1996 Truck, 3rz, 5 speed 4x4. Its a bit of a beater, but completely rust...

forums.tdiclub.com

Here is a link to the truck Dana built. I bought it from him June of 2022. been running it mostly on road. Travels the highways great.

 

[03Golfer]

Thanks to those who have given their input. PickleRick you're right about the alternator wiring, further review of the OE VW system led me to the fact that it's ECU controlled and needs to be setup how David has it wired.

I've been making progress lately after a period of inactivity due to other priorities. Dash wiring is done, I ended up hooking up to the EE1 and EE2 plugs for the most part, exceptions being the glow plug light and alternator. Even the brake switch wiring has a termination at that plug. Monitored values through VCDS, everything looks good so far.

I massaged the firewall back to give adequate clearance for the vacuum pump. I'm hoping I'll be able to route the exhaust behind the head as well (albeit with some serious heat shielding/ ceramic coats exhaust).

Steering box is being relocated forward a few inches (this is usually done as part of the SAS but mine was in the original location) and I'll redrill the spring plates to move the axle forward 1" or so. I'm hoping this will give me the clearance required for the oil pan, but this will likely prove to be my biggest hurdle (as those above have mentioned. Double edged sword because of vacuum pump). I'll try to get some progress pics up soon.

 

[PickleRick]

I found it was easier to move the engine forward to clear with firewall with no beating. I left my steering box in stock location (same with idler arm) . My engine has plenty of clearance for the front drag link but the steering damper hit my pan/engine pulley


To solve this I removed the frame mount for the damper and moved it down the the metal stop for the idle arm. Boxed it in a bit and ran a thru bolt. Pretty sure I posted pics of it on the ih8mud build thread. Much easier to post pics there.

I did not have room to run exhaust over the top of the transmission bell hosing but had plenty of room to run it down between the frame and drive shaft, even room for my flex pipe. 2.5 in mandrel from turbo back.


I crossed right under the front of the transmission cross brace and back up into OEM routing

 

[03Golfer]

That's all fine and dandy with IFS, but not so with this solid axle setup. Most of the SAS TDIs I've seen are pretty high, I'm starting to see why (but determined to stay fairly low with this truck).

Here's some pics to demonstrate. The further forward the engine goes, the worse my drag link issue becomes.

As the wheels turn, the drag link moves forward on the steering box side, and backwards on the right side. Thus my decision to move both the box and axle forward slightly. Then, as the leafs compress, they essentially get longer, pushing the axle back. Ultimately, I need to get to the next stage (suspension mock up) to see how feasable it is. I'm still planning on some oil pan mods if required, but there's less room available there than I'd hoped.

 

[03Golfer]

A few more since who doesn't like pictures.

 

[PickleRick]

Ok cool, didn't realize you were sas.

 

[jmodge]

I don’t know what you chose as an oil pump and gear setup, without searching I don’t recall exactly, but there is a smaller diameter gear and sump setup that gives you a little more clearance so you can chop the pan a little

 

[03Golfer]

I don’t know what you chose as an oil pump and gear setup, without searching I don’t recall exactly, but there is a smaller diameter gear and sump setup that gives you a little more clearance so you can chop the pan a little

Yes sir, the BRM oil pump sprocket. I have one.

Also picked up a steel oil pan - does give slightly more clearance but the largest advantage is ease of modification. Still not 100% sure I'll use it over the aluminum pan. The drawbacks are 2 less bellhousing bolts, and a hole that will require a dust shield since it doesn't bolt to bellhousing.

I found a nice firewall grommet that fits the Toyotas, Haltech HT-039005. The previous owner cut the original grommet on this truck. The larger hole will make it possible to fit my VHF coax and extra wiring through without stretching too much. It's high quality. Looking online, there's a lot of cheap grommets out there - difficult to find a nice one.

 

[jmodge]

The fact that the bell housing bolts to the aluminum pan has always swayed me towards the aluminum pan.
Nice looking fab work BTW! Can you do that to aluminum as well?

 

[jmodge]

One thing, if relevant, install inserts of some type for the starter bolts. I have an older version of adapter from when Randy had the company and it was just threads in the aluminum. The starter came loose once and continued to have issues. I just pulled the turbo and intake to get at the inner bolt hole to install a helicoil. I also had to reface the starter nosecone adapter because it curled from rocking.
Just a preventative measure to make you aware of if it applies. It would be a lot easier out of the truck

 

[03Golfer]

Sometimes it feels like I spend more time cleaning and organizing my work space than actually working... anyway, progress is slowly being made (and the garage is more organized... for now). Cleaned up the frame a little more, prepped for the steering box relocation plates, and trimmed the body slightly near the front left body mount to allow space for the steering box to fit. Yanked the mock up engine and removed the trans.

Then there's the stuff that isn't swap related that takes time... stripping, prepping and painting the engine bay, rebuilding the transmission.

Nice looking fab work BTW! Can you do that to aluminum as well?

That's not my work. Years ago, I would have (and did) do my own welding for this type of thing. Now, I know better (and know better welders). I had a friend of mine who is a welder build the bumper, weld the front axle, and weld the engine mounts. I have someone that can weld the aluminum as well, but thought maybe the steel pan would save some headache. But I'm realizing the aluminum is probably the better bet, and in talking to the welder, it's not a big deal. Mainly a good pre and post heating required.

 

[03Golfer]

Some progress has been made as time allows. Kudos to those of you that complete a swap in a matter of months.

Axle and steering box have been moved forward 3-4", hopefully it will allow for more comfortable oil pan clearance. This truck had what I think are the trail gear front leafs. They were really too short for the shackle placement. Got some old man emu CS010R, which are longer and have the pin offset to move the axle forward a bit. Shackle angle is now more acceptable. Also redrilled the axle to get another 3/4" forward. The box relocation is self explanitory, plated the frame with the new holes further forward. Any further forward and the body gets really hacked up for steering box clearance. Currently it has a small trim forward of the box but not into body mount territory yet.

I need to rebuild my trans, then I will be able to mock it all up and see where I stand with pan clearance. Currently trans is removed. One step at a time

 

[Rob Mayercik]

Interesting project. Will follow to live vicariously through your pics.

Nice choice on OME for the new leaf springs - I've been running OME springs on my XJ for many years and have always liked how it rides with them.