1990 Toyota 22RE 4x4 Engine Swap

[LukeWilson]

I've always heard turbo's need to be mounted within 15 degree of vertical to drain properly. Best I can tell mine would be very near vertical, as I am using a custom manifold.

I did notice that if i sprayed brake clean in the oil inlet of the turbo it wouldn't drain out, I had to blow it though. I know there is some tight tolerances, but I would have assumed that something thin like brake clean would have ran right through it. I am going to put the turbo back in and stick a bucket under the oil return, then run it for 10 seconds. Apparently most journal bearing turbo's flow ~2L min, I'm curious to see if I'm getting something close to that.

Other than that I, I'm kinda stumped. If anyone has any other suggestions or things to check, I'm all ears! Still waiting for Malone to get back to me about some boost logs, maybe he will have some insight.


Luke

 

[markd89]

I've always heard turbo's need to be mounted within 15 degree of vertical to drain properly. Best I can tell mine would be very near vertical, as I am using a custom manifold.

I did notice that if i sprayed brake clean in the oil inlet of the turbo it wouldn't drain out, I had to blow it though. I know there is some tight tolerances, but I would have assumed that something thin like brake clean would have ran right through it. I am going to put the turbo back in and stick a bucket under the oil return, then run it for 10 seconds. Apparently most journal bearing turbo's flow ~2L min, I'm curious to see if I'm getting something close to that.

Other than that I, I'm kinda stumped. If anyone has any other suggestions or things to check, I'm all ears! Still waiting for Malone to get back to me about some boost logs, maybe he will have some insight.


Luke

I'm not an expert, but the turbo oil feed is under pressure, so I'd figure it's going to drain fine...

 

[LukeWilson]

markd89:

I would think so, but I've heard of people having to use oil scavenging pump in applications where the turbo is low or level with the oil pan. From what I've seen/heard if the oil isn't draining fast enough from the turbo, the seals are typically turned into a new exit path.



I put the turbo back in tonight, I'll try and get some boost logs tomorrow although it is midterm season...

I found a small hole in the the compressor outlet where I TIG'd on a extra pipe to get rid of the weird Mercedes plumbing fixtures, wondering if that was the source of my weird whistle?

I also took off the turbo return line and let the truck idle, I got about 125ML in 20 seconds. I would tend to think that is reasonable at idle, seeing as oil pressure is supposed to be 29 psi at 2000rpm and up to 100psi at higher rpms.

I also spoke with Malone today about some options to get this turbo to spool a little sooner. I'm excited to see what he can do once i provide him with some decent boost logs......if that ever happens.


Luke

 

[Sleet]

Luke,

Was just curious how this project has been going (or turned out) I know it's been 9+ years but I have been thinking of doing a swap into a toyota pickup and was just curious how this one had been going.

 

[jmodge]

Luke,

Was just curious how this project has been going (or turned out) I know it's been 9+ years but I have been thinking of doing a swap into a toyota pickup and was just curious how this one had been going.

What year truck? If you are in Michigan, I have a '96 Tacoma you can look at

 

[Sleet]

What year truck? If you are in Michigan, I have a '96 Tacoma you can look at

It's a 1982 toyota pickup. It's condition is rather unknown. I got it with a couple sidekicks - the guy was planning on making a super off road rig. He had bought the truck just for the front axle to put into a sidekick. He never touched the sidekick project and ~10 years later he let it all go and I ended up with his truck and sidekicks.

all I know about the truck is the guys said it had a knock when he drove it onto the flat bed when he bought it and 10 years later he thinks the started is out. I haven't tried to do anything to it. I just figured if i needed a good truck to do something off the beaten path this truck would be hard to beat.

I'd prefer to stick an ALH into it as i have a jetta with a motor I could use but this is just thoughts and dreams at this time and gives me something to read up on in the evenings when time permits.

I was just curious what type of mileage Luke had gotten on his. But doing some looking at his posts it sounds like he sold the truck a few years back.

 

[jmodge]

Worse I have averaged is 32.5, I’ve gotten 35.6 over multiple tanks of mostly highway driving.

 

[PickleRick]

On the OP's toyota he used the overflow tank style radiator. Oem to the Toyota.

The newer tdi engines run an expansion tank.

Can the BHW and similar motors be ran on the old school radiator with the radiator mounted cap or do I need to install a sealed radiator with expansion tank at the highest point in the engine bay?

 

[jmodge]

Mine has the original radiator, but the cap has been modified to not hold pressure. Overflow line from radiator goes to stock TDI coolant ball. 5/16 line from head goes into upper radiator hose

 

[PickleRick]

Thank you.

 

[Braddman]

I’m using the Toyota rad, cap and overflow bottle with my BHW and I have not had any issues. When I have had coolant leaks in the past the rad cap still allows coolant to be drawn into the rad from the overflow bottle. Whenever I remove the rad cap the coolant level is always just below the cap.

 

[PickleRick]

Using the original 22re radiator in the 87 4 runner would be the simplest choice. I didn't think the design of the tdi coolant system allowed the use of the old overflow canister cooant system. For my application I'll be adding an electric fan to come on with the ac compressor as well as temp gauge.



Right now I'm trying to solve my rear drive shaft issue. I have 4.5 degree diff pinion, 5.5 degree tc pinion. The drive shaft is @ 50 inches long. My drop angle is 22 degrees. 3 inches of that are 1.5 drive shaft spacers and I'm using a 6 degree wedge on the springs.

I'm not sure if that's too much drop for a stock single cardan shaft for a daily driver 75 mph highway rig or if I need to go to a double cardan joint and remove my wedges.

 

[PickleRick]

Where did you guys mount your ecu? I've got plenty of room to mount mine between the power steering reservoir and inner fender. I was thinking I could find a little marine/fishing clam shell box to mount it in with some drain holes drilled in the bottom. Something you'd store your phone/keys/wallet etc in.

I don't have wiring legenth to mount it under my seats and I'd like my amps to be under there anyway. A soft top 4 runner will be loud so a good marine sound system is a must. I need to be able to hear modest mouse over the post Malone blaring out of the civic beside me at traffic lights.

 

[jmodge]

Between the glove box and firewall

 

[TurboABA]

I'm not sure if that's too much drop for a stock single cardan shaft for a daily driver 75 mph highway rig or if I need to go to a double cardan joint and remove my wedges.

Have a read

Driveline Geometry 101

Driveshaft Angle Explained This video will demonstrate the proper angles for a drive shaft in a stock Jeep or Truck and how the rules change when you add a suspension lift. The video below demonstrates what is happening to the shaft at different angles, how improper angles can cause speed...

4xshaft.com

 

[TurboABA]

And I will assume you already know about this.....

 

[Braddman]

I mounted my BHW ECU where the original Toyota one went, behind the glove box. I made 2 sheet metal brackets that bolt the BHW ECU to the Toyota ECU mounting holes. I also mounted the 5 engine harness to body, junction connectors to those 2 mounting brackets. The BHW ECU has 4 aluminum standoffs that are cast to M5 tap drill size so I tapped those holes to mount my bracket to the ECU.

ECU mounted under dash

• Braddman
• Nov 16, 2021

 

[PickleRick]

Tom wood's gave a pretty good (aka dumbed down enough for me to understand) video on angles that both a single and double car-DAN joint drive shaft can handle.

I pulled the rear spacer from under my transmission mount and dropped it nearly 1.75 inches. Luckily I had plenty of tandem pump fire wall clearance. If i ever need to service the rear water outlet or the tandem pump I can pull the 4 trans mount bolts and get enough clearance to stick a soft ball back there with just a floor jack picking up the output shaft.

That got me to a 14 degree drive shaft angle. That's plenty good for a double cardan, still a far cry for a single. I'll be pulling a long top leaf out of each of my rear old man emu springs which should get me down to 12 or 13 degrees. I have way too much rear lift as it is and even a 500 lbs swing out rear bumper couldn't correct it.

I ordered a stock 4x4 5 speed 4 cyl 1999 4 runner rear drive shaft. They are approx 48 inches long, which means I'll be tossing out one of my 1.5 inch pinion flange spacers, possibly both. This gets me a factory double cardan drive shaft. My r150f will have the proper flange pattern but I'll have to rotate and redrill the input flange for the rear 3rd member. Its a cheap ebay drive shaft but can be rebuilt with nice spicer parts in the future.

I'll then need to remove my 6 degree leaf spacers and get the rear pinion to drive shaft angle correct.