1990 Toyota 22RE 4x4 Engine Swap

LukeWilson

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
Here is a picture of my crank locking pin, it not the greatest pic but you get the idea:




I inspected my cylinder head and replaced the valve seals today. The valve guides were within the wear limits so i left them.




My intake ports were extremely plugged, thanks EGR. . .



I figure i removed about 3/4 of a cup of carbon gunk, i just used a fine screwdriver and was careful to stay away from valve guides and seats.



After i put the head back together i put it back on the block with a new gasket and bolts. I got a couple cans of engine degreaser from walmart and went at the block for the better part of an hour. It was pretty weird stuff, smelt like moth balls and sprayed like shaving cream. I painted the block with rust paint, i have heard that it actually holds up to the heat fairly well.



I am hoping to get the engine back in the truck tomorrow or Tuesday, i have to reroute some brake lines first so that my exhaust will fit. Just a note, do not buy powerbuilt tools from Canadian tire the brake line flare tool lasted less than 60 seconds. This was not my first run in with there junk tools, but it will be my last.

Lastly, here is the multi function gauge and pyrometer i bought from auber instruments. The box is quite small and can do egt, boost, water/oil pressure and temp. You can set it up to alarm at set values and a little light comes on as well. The best part was it only cost $48 and are apparently very accurate. The probe was $36 and is good to 1800 F.





Luke
 

LukeWilson

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Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
I have a question about making the boost function of my multifunction gauge work. It needs a signal from the map sensor (0-5V). From what i have found here, ecu pin 2 is 5v power, ecu pin 3 is ground and ecu pin 4 is signal out from the MAP. In theory i would just have to tap into these wires to get it working, correct? It gets a bit more complicated when i have to calibrate it, the instructions are for a 3bar gm unit but i think if i hook up a mechanical gauge temporarily i can find out what the output voltage is at what pressure.

Here is the instructions, if anyone can make more sense of it than i can:

http://auberins.com/images/Manual/Quick%20Guide%20for%20Boost%20Application.pdf

Luke
 

Reddok

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Joined
Feb 18, 2010
Location
Hamilton, Ontario
TDI
'00 Jetta TDI 01M, '02 Jeep Liberty Renegade ALH TDI swap
According to this: http://auberins.com/images/Manual/Pressure%20sensor1.pdf :

They are taking two known data points from the sensor, computing the slope and then calculating the value at 0V and 5V. So, you could hook your sensor up on the bench, measure it with no vac/boost (1 bar), then apply 2 bar (or any measured vac/boost) and measure again. Then use those two values in the equation given in the pdf to calculate your puL and puH.

I think I'm going to order one of these as well. I like the alarm feature - not too many regular gauges with that.
 

LukeWilson

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Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
Thanks, that's what i thought i had to do but this clarifies for me. I have yet to power it up but the overall fit and finish is quite good for both the gauge and probe. I didn't really want 3 or 4 different gauges all over the place, but this will fit into a cut out in my dash perfectly.
 

Reddok

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2010
Location
Hamilton, Ontario
TDI
'00 Jetta TDI 01M, '02 Jeep Liberty Renegade ALH TDI swap
Did you pay the extra $9 or so and get the blue one? I'm not sure I want to cut a hole in my dash to mount it though. Maybe in my centre console... Where and how are you going to mount the probe? I found I actually have a 1/8NPT27 tap in my collection, so I'm assuming I can just drill and tap my exhaust manifold.

Oh, and how much did it cost you once it got across the border?
 

LukeWilson

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Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
I did not pay for the fancy blue one hahaha. I am not exactly sure where i am going to mount it yet, i am thinking just to the right of the steering wheel. I am going to mount the probe in my turbo adapter pipe, its mild steel and before the turbo, so it will be easy to tap and should show a fairly accurate reading. I ship things to a warehouse just across the border in Ogdensburg, NY then i go and pick my stuff up and clear it myself. Its only a 45 min drive for me and it saves me the BS ups charges. So to answer your question, the price showing on the site plus exchange rate, taxes and $10 shipping.

Luke
 

e*clipse

Veteran Member
Joined
May 9, 2007
Location
Chico, CA
TDI
Toyota TDI swap
Those Auber instrument gauges are nice little units.

I'm using one for EGT, and it's been extremely helpful. :)

I've set the alarm to go on at 1100F and off at 1000F. I've heard from people on this site that it's pretty safe to run for extended times up to 1200F. Now I can decide how hard to push hills, etc by checking the boost and the EGT. :cool:

For the Toyota, I modded the instrument cluster by taking out the oil pressure gauge and replacing it with the Auber instruments gauge reading EGT. I'd read that the Toyota oil pressure gauge was inaccurate, so I replaced it with a VDO mechanical gauge.

My only gripe is the red LED is impossible to read in sunlight.
 

LukeWilson

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
Since my truck is a base model, i only have a speedo, fuel gauge and coolant temp. I think i am going to hook up an oil pressure sensor to the multifunction gauge as well as the boost and egt.

Now on another note, any chance you have and pictures of how you mounted your exhaust e*clipse? Originally i was going to try and snake it through to the drivers side, but its just not worth it. I am going to run it down the outside of the frame rail like you did, but i was just wondering how you dodged the cab mounting brackets and cleared the pipe so the wheel won't hit at full lock?

The engine is back in with a fresh timing belt, i am hoping to start it up again tomorrow. Just have to clean up the wiring and make an exhaust now. I am almost tempted to dump the pipe into the front fender well because it isn't very loud, but i don't really want to fill the cab with diesel fumes in the summer when the windows are down.

Getting close...

Luke
 

LukeWilson

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Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
Update:

I am pulling my hair out trying to get this thing started again. When i first put it back together and i tried to start it, it fired within 15-20 seconds and then ran for about 45 seconds till it shut off. Now i can't get anything put some diesel fumes out of the turbo. I put in a boat style priming bulb, but even when i pump and crank i am not seeing any fuel out of the injectors. I have tried a couple of combinations, one at a time, two at a time and even all 4 injectors cracked. Right now i have a liter of fuel in a small container which i am pulling from with the primer bulb in the middle. Does anyone have any suggestions or other things to check? I am almost certain it is to air in the system since it has run since i changed the timing belt.

Luke
 

LukeWilson

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Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
Can i even scan vag com when it is not running? I will have to check the fuses, but i am pretty sure the wiring is fine.
 

Reddok

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Joined
Feb 18, 2010
Location
Hamilton, Ontario
TDI
'00 Jetta TDI 01M, '02 Jeep Liberty Renegade ALH TDI swap
Yes, it will scan when it is not running. If there are any trouble codes present they might point you in the right direction. I would suspect something got disconnected or shorted out as you had it running before and you seem to have taken care of any IP priming issues.
 

LukeWilson

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
I think that the first time it ran i was only running on what was in the pump. It certainly wasn't running great, sounded like it was only running on 3 cylinders or something. After it shut off, i could not restart it.

Luke
 

LukeWilson

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Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
You called it Reddok, it is blowing fuses. I changed one and it fired instantly, then died. I am using a 15A fuse, is that what the VW originally used for the power supply circuit?


Luke
 

LukeWilson

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Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
It is the circuit that powers the ecu and all the sensors, the equivalent of the VW power supply relay circuit.
 

Reddok

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Feb 18, 2010
Location
Hamilton, Ontario
TDI
'00 Jetta TDI 01M, '02 Jeep Liberty Renegade ALH TDI swap
I would disconnect all the sensors, put a fresh fuse in there and then plug in the sensors until the fuse blows. Then troubleshoot that sensor wiring.
 

e*clipse

Veteran Member
Joined
May 9, 2007
Location
Chico, CA
TDI
Toyota TDI swap
Good call Reddok.

However, you may need to prioritize things a bit - It probably won't run w/ no sensors. Check the impedance of the sensors as you disconnect them. You may find the shorted or weak sensor as you do that.

Also, Vag-Com will probably tell you which sensor is bad. You don't need to run the engine, just turn the key until the glow plug light turns on. (it will probably be blinking). You can get error codes at that point. If you don't have the full version, post the error code numbers here and we can help figure them out.
 
Last edited:

LukeWilson

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
It runs again! I did what Reddok suggested, i unplugged everything then plugged one sensor in and cranked it. I would check the fuse after each sensor was plugged in, until it started up. So i have narrowed it down to the coolant temp sensor, the oil pressure or coolant temp. I need a new oil pressure sensor anyways because it is leaking up by the blade connector, but i think it might be the culprit as well. I am sure there are a bunch of codes, but i won't have a vag com cable until monday.

A question for e*clipse, which you might have addressed in your build: Do i need to use led's for all of the warning lights?

Thanks for your help guys!
 

LukeWilson

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Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
I made some progress on the weekend, my exhaust system is almost done. I built it out of 2.5" stainless with mandrel bends where they were needed. I finally got to try out my tig welder, it went pretty well for a first attempt. It was a pretty big pain to route the pipe because of the lack of room, but i am pretty happy with the results. I will try and get some pictures of it up tomorrow. The only thing left for me to do is clean up the wiring, i am in the middle of thinning out the harness and finding all the wires i need for the warning lights. I am hoping to have it road worthy by the end of the week so that i can spend next weekend getting it running well, it sounds a bit rough right now. I should also have my 216 injectors by next weekend as well :)

Pics tomorrow,

Luke
 

LukeWilson

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Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
I am having trouble sorting out the wiring for the warning lights. My main concern is the oil pressure light as there are two different oil pressure switches. I just read that the 0.3 bar switch is used below 2000rpm and the 1.8 bar switch is used above 2000rpm. Should i wire both of them to the warning light?

As far as the other warning lights/gauges the wiring is as follows (i think):

alternator warning - solid blue wire

coolant temp gauge - yellow/red

0.3bar oil pressure - blue/black

1.8bar oil pressure - solid yellow


Luke
 

CFM

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Joined
Dec 13, 2006
Location
Wells, Maine
TDI
1995 Saturn with a 1997 TDI drivetrain.
Something that I ran into with my Saturn TDI swap is that the oil pressure sender (the 0.3 bar one up by the head) worked just opposite of most vehicles. That is, with oil pressure, the circuit is complete and the oil pressure light would stay on! I solved this by getting an oil pressure switch from a late '80s Volvo, which allowed the oil pressure light to work normally. I never did anything with the 1.8 bar switch for my swap, although I may put an oil pressure sender in there for a gauge someday...
 

LukeWilson

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Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
So you just ran the low pressure sender to the warning light and didn't even hook up the high pressure sender? I remember reading on someones swap that i can just hook it up to the lightbulb in the dash, i am just not sure whether to run both sender outputs to the same warning light. In theory there would never be current coming from both at the same time, so it would make sense.

Thanks,

Luke
 

LukeWilson

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Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
Woohoo!!! I just went for my first drive. I still have lots of things to address, but i am in the homestretch. I haven't hooked up my OBDII connector, so i cannot scan it for codes yet but there are some definite issues. I think that my timing is probably off slightly as it does not sound great at off idle conditions and doesn't seem to rev out as high as it should. It is possible i am in limp mode or something, but i am thinking that it is more timing related. I have also notice a real clacking noise, it sounds like it is really only on one cylinder. Is this possibly a dirty injector? I will get pictures up tomorrow, my sister finally gave me the camera back.


Luke
 

e*clipse

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Joined
May 9, 2007
Location
Chico, CA
TDI
Toyota TDI swap
Congratulations!!!!:D

Hook up the OBD connector - it's only a few wires and it will be invaluable. :)

I got your e-mail, but I thought I'd attempt to answer the questions here, maybe someone else can also benefit from it.

LukeWilson:
I have a question about the instrument cluster warning lights, i cannot get my warning lights to work for the life of me. I spent about 3 hours on Saturday trying to figure them out, but no luck. The lights in question are the oil pressure warning light, the battery light, the coolant temp gauge and the check engine light. For the oil light i just ran the wires from the oil pressure sending units (0.3 bar and 1.8 bar) to the positive connection on the back on the gauge cluster and used the original Toyota ground. For the battery light and coolant gauge i did the same thing. For the check engine light i used the wire coming from the ECU and connected it to the positive terminal on the gauge cluster and used the original Toyota ground. None of the lights i messed with work, although the seat belt and e-brake light do function still. I am a little stumped as to why they aren't lighting up, i don't really understand the gauge cluster wiring diagram so maybe i am missing something big here.
Yeah, the instrument cluster diagram is pretty confusing. I was looking through my notes and saw pages of stuff - I guess it took some time to figure out. :( Be careful, because some lights are turned on with 12V, and others are grounded on.

1) Oil pressure lights: Bail on the idiot lights and get a good gauge. You'll be amazed what it'll tell you. :)

2) The battery light should be wired the same as a Yota. Do you have a FSM for the Truck? My instrument cluster diagram shows this:

IGN fuse ------ charge warning light ------>|------- Charge fuse


Diode wiring: Anode (+) ---->|----- (-) Cathode

As long as the alternator is working, the voltage at the Charge fuse will be higher than the voltage at the IGN fuse. The diode blocks the current and the light stays off. If the alternator fails, the voltage at the IGN fuse will be higher than the voltage at the Charge fuse, and the diode will allow current to flow, turning on the light.

3) I wired my coolent temp guage to a Toyota sender. I made a multipurpose 'T' fitting with the VW coolent fan switch and the Toyota temp sensor on it. Just to be sure, I'm also running a oil temperature gauge.

4) The check engine light (MIL) and glow plug lights should be LEDs.

Wiring LED's: LED's are like diodes, with an anode and a cathode. In other words, they are also polarized. If you hook them up backwards, they won't work. You won't hurt them, they just won't turn on. Wire them with + on the anode side. Led's require very little current to run, so if you put one directly between some 12V source and ground, you'll fry them in an instant. Most are happy running somewhere between 10mA and 20mA of current. To regulate the current, put a resistor in series w/ the LED. 820 Ohms to 1000 Ohms should work fine. :) The VW ECU 'sinks' current for the indicator lights, so wire the LED and resistor between the ECU output and the instrument positive. Hopefully you didn't hurt the ECU's transistors if you used incandescent lights.

HTH,

E*clipse
 

LukeWilson

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Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
I was planning on running an oil temp and pressure gauge but was hoping to get a warning light as well. Is the wire going to the sending unit the grounding or powering the light? Same thing with the coolant gauge, is the wire that goes to the coolant temp sensor grounding or powering? I wired both as if they were grounding. I am using LED's for the glow plug and CEL, however the ones i got said they were plug and play for 12V. I replaced a bunch of the gauge bulbs with these, including the CEL.



I am hoping that these will work, as they were a pretty simple solution. And again for the engine and glow plug lights, are the ECU outputs grounds or positives? I wired them for positives. I checked all my LED's to make sure that they were in correctly. I am going to hook up my OBDII today, my VAGCOM cable should be here on friday.

Thanks for the help,

Luke
 

e*clipse

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Joined
May 9, 2007
Location
Chico, CA
TDI
Toyota TDI swap
I'm not familiar w/ those LED's - they look pretty cool. :) They look like they could just replace the incandescents. However, they look like they have multiple LED's and may pull much more current than the #'s I quoted. Or they could be in series and their current would be the same. I have some LED's I'm using to light my Airstream, and they consist of groups of 3 LED's running of 12V.

HOWEVER, those little led holders are not polarized - LED's are. If they are plug & play, test them w/ a battery. They may work plugged in one way and not the other.

According to my Bentley's , the oil pressure switches are grounded on. However, F1 looks normally open, while F22 looks normally closed. Also, check your instrument cluster and make sure your light is connected to a positive bus. (oh, and remember the LED polarization)

Regarding the temp gauge - are you using the VW sender? If so, it may have a different Temperature/Voltage relationship than the Toyota gauge is expecting and give you a bad reading.
 

LukeWilson

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Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
The LED's are in in clusters of 3, i guess i will see how much current they draw. I made sure to check which way they were installed, so that they would work the way i wired them. I am trying to use the VW temp sender, but it may not work. Right now i believe the ECU has defaulted to limp mode, once i hook up OBDII i will have a better idea of whats going on. As a side note the Auber instruments multifunction gauge i got can also be used as a oil temp/pressure along with the boost/egt gauge funtions.

Thanks for the help once again,

Luke
 

LukeWilson

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Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
Also it think CFM called it about the open/closed oil pressure switch. I think i will have to swap that out to a volvo one, any ideas as to model and year or part # of the one you used CFM?

Thanks,

Luke
 
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