LukeWilson
Veteran Member
I finally started my swap last Sunday. It took me about 4 hours to remove the 22re from my truck, about 2 hours of that was trying to figure out how to remove the top two bellhousing bolts.
This is the original 22RE with 110,000 miles, as bulletproof as it is its not great in the power or mpg department.
1 heavy lump of an engine out. I set up a tarp outside the garage to make working a little more pleasant if it started to rain, of course the weather is supposed to be great for the next two weeks.
After a little pressure washing to clean things up a little. I think the input shaft seal on my tranny might be leaking a bit.
Here is the 1Z hanging in place, you can see how much shorter it is than the original. The main clearance problems are diff/oilpan, valve cover/firewall, alternator/steering column.
Here you can see how close things really are.
Here is the best solution i came up with. I used a hydrogen oxygen torch to heat the pan up allowing me to hammer it in. By putting a divot in the oil pan, you can drop the entire engine which then clears the steering column (just!) and makes enough room at the firewall. I discovered after i put the divot in, that i made a little boo-boo and put it in the wrong end. I haven't decided whether I'm going to leave it, try and bend it back or get another pan and try again.
Here is one of my engine mounts. I was able to use the original Toyota frame mount and I'm going to try the rubber mounts as well. Please excuse the welds they certainly aren't my finest work. I don't have a picture of the other side, but i used the 3 bolts under the oil filter mount. I am using a Toyota front diff mount to connect to, it is plenty strong and i don't have to modify the frame (except to cut the drivers side engine mount off to clear the alternator).
I got my adapter plate cnc laser cut, which came out great and had my flywheel machined to bolt to the VW crank. Unfortunately i don't have any pictures yet but i can snap a few next time the engine is out.
I bought a intake manifold that was off of a AAZ 1.9TD, it does not have the egr valve in it and the intake pipe can be flipped to point in the right direction with no mods. I got a exhaust manifold that was off a 1.6TD which again does not have any egr crap on it. It has the weird VW only trapezoidal turbo flange. I am planning on using a TD04HL-15T off of a late 90's Saab 9-5. This turbo has a T25 flange on it so i am getting some flanges lasered out to make a turbo adapter.
I bought a universal FMIC kit off of ebay for $150 shipping in, this included a intercooler, various piping (45, 90 and 180 degree mandrel bends and some straight tubes), silicone couplers and t-clamps. I was able to sneak this in behind my grille, i will only have to modify one of the grille mounting brackets.
For the cooling fan i hacked the original one apart and made some brackets to hold it against the radiator. I will use a dual relay setup and the original coolant temp sensor to power it.
This is the original 22RE with 110,000 miles, as bulletproof as it is its not great in the power or mpg department.
1 heavy lump of an engine out. I set up a tarp outside the garage to make working a little more pleasant if it started to rain, of course the weather is supposed to be great for the next two weeks.
After a little pressure washing to clean things up a little. I think the input shaft seal on my tranny might be leaking a bit.
Here is the 1Z hanging in place, you can see how much shorter it is than the original. The main clearance problems are diff/oilpan, valve cover/firewall, alternator/steering column.
Here you can see how close things really are.
Here is the best solution i came up with. I used a hydrogen oxygen torch to heat the pan up allowing me to hammer it in. By putting a divot in the oil pan, you can drop the entire engine which then clears the steering column (just!) and makes enough room at the firewall. I discovered after i put the divot in, that i made a little boo-boo and put it in the wrong end. I haven't decided whether I'm going to leave it, try and bend it back or get another pan and try again.
Here is one of my engine mounts. I was able to use the original Toyota frame mount and I'm going to try the rubber mounts as well. Please excuse the welds they certainly aren't my finest work. I don't have a picture of the other side, but i used the 3 bolts under the oil filter mount. I am using a Toyota front diff mount to connect to, it is plenty strong and i don't have to modify the frame (except to cut the drivers side engine mount off to clear the alternator).
I got my adapter plate cnc laser cut, which came out great and had my flywheel machined to bolt to the VW crank. Unfortunately i don't have any pictures yet but i can snap a few next time the engine is out.
I bought a intake manifold that was off of a AAZ 1.9TD, it does not have the egr valve in it and the intake pipe can be flipped to point in the right direction with no mods. I got a exhaust manifold that was off a 1.6TD which again does not have any egr crap on it. It has the weird VW only trapezoidal turbo flange. I am planning on using a TD04HL-15T off of a late 90's Saab 9-5. This turbo has a T25 flange on it so i am getting some flanges lasered out to make a turbo adapter.
I bought a universal FMIC kit off of ebay for $150 shipping in, this included a intercooler, various piping (45, 90 and 180 degree mandrel bends and some straight tubes), silicone couplers and t-clamps. I was able to sneak this in behind my grille, i will only have to modify one of the grille mounting brackets.
For the cooling fan i hacked the original one apart and made some brackets to hold it against the radiator. I will use a dual relay setup and the original coolant temp sensor to power it.