1990 Toyota 22RE 4x4 Engine Swap

LukeWilson

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
I finally started my swap last Sunday. It took me about 4 hours to remove the 22re from my truck, about 2 hours of that was trying to figure out how to remove the top two bellhousing bolts.


This is the original 22RE with 110,000 miles, as bulletproof as it is its not great in the power or mpg department.


1 heavy lump of an engine out. I set up a tarp outside the garage to make working a little more pleasant if it started to rain, of course the weather is supposed to be great for the next two weeks.



After a little pressure washing to clean things up a little. I think the input shaft seal on my tranny might be leaking a bit.


Here is the 1Z hanging in place, you can see how much shorter it is than the original. The main clearance problems are diff/oilpan, valve cover/firewall, alternator/steering column.


Here you can see how close things really are.


Here is the best solution i came up with. I used a hydrogen oxygen torch to heat the pan up allowing me to hammer it in. By putting a divot in the oil pan, you can drop the entire engine which then clears the steering column (just!) and makes enough room at the firewall. I discovered after i put the divot in, that i made a little boo-boo and put it in the wrong end. I haven't decided whether I'm going to leave it, try and bend it back or get another pan and try again.


Here is one of my engine mounts. I was able to use the original Toyota frame mount and I'm going to try the rubber mounts as well. Please excuse the welds they certainly aren't my finest work. I don't have a picture of the other side, but i used the 3 bolts under the oil filter mount. I am using a Toyota front diff mount to connect to, it is plenty strong and i don't have to modify the frame (except to cut the drivers side engine mount off to clear the alternator).


I got my adapter plate cnc laser cut, which came out great and had my flywheel machined to bolt to the VW crank. Unfortunately i don't have any pictures yet but i can snap a few next time the engine is out.


I bought a intake manifold that was off of a AAZ 1.9TD, it does not have the egr valve in it and the intake pipe can be flipped to point in the right direction with no mods. I got a exhaust manifold that was off a 1.6TD which again does not have any egr crap on it. It has the weird VW only trapezoidal turbo flange. I am planning on using a TD04HL-15T off of a late 90's Saab 9-5. This turbo has a T25 flange on it so i am getting some flanges lasered out to make a turbo adapter.



I bought a universal FMIC kit off of ebay for $150 shipping in, this included a intercooler, various piping (45, 90 and 180 degree mandrel bends and some straight tubes), silicone couplers and t-clamps. I was able to sneak this in behind my grille, i will only have to modify one of the grille mounting brackets.


For the cooling fan i hacked the original one apart and made some brackets to hold it against the radiator. I will use a dual relay setup and the original coolant temp sensor to power it.
 

mannytranny

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 14, 2003
Location
CA
TDI
02 Jetta (sold, such a great car) '16 Touareg
Should be great! Those Toyota trucks are built really well and the TDI is a great fit.

What trans is in the truck? Gearing ok?
 

Ski in NC

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jul 7, 2008
Location
Wilmington, NC USA
TDI
2001 Jetta ALH 5sp stock
That should be a good combo. TDI & older Toyota 4wd. I may do one myself.

One thought: Would it be worth moving the tranny foward a few inches to get engine off firewall? it would require resizing fwd and aft driveshafts and modding the rear tranny mount, as well as shifters. But might be worthwhile to make a really clean install.
 

LukeWilson

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
Mannytranny:
The trans is a W56 with 4.10 gears in the rear end and i am running 31" tires. If i find its reving too high i will put larger tires on.

Ski in NC:

I thought of moving the tranny forwards but after i clearanced the oil pan, i have about 3/4" clearance which is no less than the original engine. I have about 2" of clearance where the coolant flange exits to cylinder head. I got a aluminum flange off a 80's rabbit that i can modify to fit with lots of room.


I guess it would be good to add some engine info. The car was a 1997 Passat wagon with around 430,000 kms on it. It was used as a delivery vehicle by the previous owner and was a complete mess. There was only 1 seat left in the car and there was about 6" of food wrappers and delivery receipts on the floor. The body was pretty rough and the clutch was kaput, so i towed it home on a tow dolly. A friend and i purchased the car together as i wanted the engine/wiring and he wanted everything else. For $300 i got pretty much everything i need to make the engine run in the truck. I wanted to make sure the engine was in fact a runner because it had sat for almost a year so i hot wired it (broken ignition) and she fired up instantly. My plan is to get it running in the truck then take it out again and freshen everything up. The list includes new timing belt kit, front and rear crank seals, intermediate shaft bearings, new head gasket, valve guides and plastic coolant flanges. My thinking is that i know it ran when it came out of the car, so i don't want to change to many variables at once. Once everything is fresh, i am going to get a chip and .216 injectors to complement the fmic, 2.5" exhaust and larger turbo. The stock engine had roughly 120 hp and ft-lbs, so i should be able to make it scoot along fairly well.

I have started into the wiring and have a bunch of questions hopefully you guys will be able to help me with. I will update tomorrow once i get some pictures of the wiring.

I also need to give a big thanks to E*clipse as he has put up with my questions and given me many helpful hints to this point.
 

mannytranny

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 14, 2003
Location
CA
TDI
02 Jetta (sold, such a great car) '16 Touareg
I'd seriously consider rebuilding the engine as a whole....it's not hard since it will be out of the truck.....FWIW. Do you know the maint history?
 

LukeWilson

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
I know that the last 100,000 kms it wasn't looked after very well, before that it was pretty meticulous. When i compression tested it, it showed good numbers across the board. For right now a head rebuild and some other seals/bearings are all that i have in the budget. When i take the head off, i will have a good look at the cylinders and pistons and decide then. Right now i just need to get it running or i will be walking to university.
 

UFO

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2007
Location
A mile high
TDI
2001 Beetle
I get 25-30 mpg out of my '89 with a 22RE. I would hope you can get 35+ with the diesel, but the 22RE has more power/torque than the 1Z.
 

mannytranny

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 14, 2003
Location
CA
TDI
02 Jetta (sold, such a great car) '16 Touareg
Whatever you do.....keep the electronic injection!!!

On my TDI swap I went mechanical and am in the process of converting it back to electronic now.....the electronic injection system is the key to the greatness of the TDI.
 

LukeWilson

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
Ok so i need some help from the VW wiring guru's. After trying to make sense of the VW diagrams and going through my wiring harness i have some questions.

Things i would like to delete, if possible:

-G72 intake air temp sensor
-N79 PCV heating element
-N18 EGR valve (will be getting an egr delete with a chip)
-J325 coolant glow plug relay

Now from what i have been told the coolant glow plug relay will not function unless i set it up properly with the heating controls. I wasn't planning on doing this and don't really have room for the coolant flange that houses them anyways. My main concern is how i go about deleting this stuff, can i simply cut it all out of the loom or do some things need to be left or wired together.

Next is a plug i found for the needle lift sensor (G80). I cannot for the life of me figure out where this sensor is on the engine or what it does.

I was lucky enough to find some broken wires when i pulled the harness out of the car, i tend to think whatever they connect to isn't very important because there was no CEL. There was a fine black wire that traces back to the F connector on the engine harness and a black with a blue stripe that also goes to the F connector, this wire was slightly heavier. I cannot find them on a wiring diagram. The last broken wire is black with a red stripe it traces back to a black 2 pin connector, the other wire is red with a black stripe and both of these wires are of a heavier gauge.


Next is regarding powering the ECU. From other Toyota/VW swaps i have read that the Toyota MFI relay works to power the VW ECU. It is a 15A circuit (best i can tell). From the VW wiring diagrams it appears the power supply relay (J317) powers the ECU. The two wires connecting it to the loom are a fine black with a violet stripe and a heavier gauged blue with a red stripe. Some suggestions on how to go about powering the VW ecu would be great.

These are the main problems for now, i have to finish reading up on switching from the "smart" 7-pin glow plug relay to a standard 50A relay and finish up my fan wiring.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated,

Lucas
 

Rockwell

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2009
Location
Manchester, NH
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI (R.I.P.), 1.6TD Toyota pickup, 2011 BMW 335d, 1996 Passat TDI
cool swap. I put a 1.6TD in a toyota pickup, wish it was a TDI. I had to modify the oil pan also. I moved the engine/transmission forward 2" to get it away from the firewall to allow room for the coolant hose and exhaust. I thought the extra work was worth it, the exhaust was tough enough to route even with the extra clearance.

 

LukeWilson

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
Thanks for the tip Rockwell, i thought i had the exhaust routing figured out, but this might be better.

So i found a useful link to a PDF of VW a industrial TDI:

http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/TDI/tdi-technik-eng.pdf

From this i think i answered some of my own questions. Best i can tell the mandatory sensors the engine needs to function properly are:

-needle lift sender G80 (found it, its on one of the injectors)
-engine speed sender G28 (on engine block towards the bellhousing)
-air-mass flow meter G70
-coolant temperature sender G62
-intake manifold temperature sensor G72
-clutch pedal switch F36
-brake pedal switch F47
-acceleration position sender G79
-modulating piston movement sensor G149
-fuel temperature sender G81

So it looks like i can delete everything but the intake air temperature sender. I know i will get a CEL if the EGR valve is unplugged until i get a chip, but will it cause any other issues just as limp mode?

Thanks,

Lucas
 

e*clipse

Veteran Member
Joined
May 9, 2007
Location
Chico, CA
TDI
Toyota TDI swap
Hi Luke!

Glad to see your swap is going! :) Looks like your truck is in much better condition than the one I started with.

Regarding clearances:
My engine is also pretty tight against the firewall, like Rockwell's.

My Tranny is an R151-F, which is similar in geometry to yours. I found the shift lever to be too close to the dash. I had to remove some of the lower dash stuff to provide clearance. I'm going to eventually bend the shift lever to avoid knocking knuckles against the stereo.

Consider running your exhaust out the passenger side, rather than using Toyota's original plan. You'll get a much shorter (free flowing) exhaust with fewer bends and fewer heat-related problems.

Regarding mandatory sensors:
G72 is necessary
I'm not using J325, but I live in a relatively mild climate (even when skiing)
Yes, all the sensors your previous post are necessary.

I would highly recommend Rocketchip for your tuning. He was able to upgrade the control for the turbo so I could run VNT's. Other mods like EGR delete, MAF upgrade and Immobilizer delete (It was a Euro ECU) were also done.

HTH,

E*clipse
 

LukeWilson

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
Thought i would update things here. The intercooler piping is almost done, i was lucky enough to get someone to weld up the aluminum tubing so i have fewer silicone couplers. The plan for the long weekend is to finish up plumbing the coolant system and dive into the wiring. I am using an assortment of Toyota, VW and copper fittings the connect the coolant system together, just about had a heart attack when i saw the price of copper pipe and fittings. Also i have been combing through the Bentley wiring diagrams, but i would like an ECU pin out. I have been searching around but have yet to locate a list of what each pin of the ECU actually connects to. If anyone has a link for one it would be much appreciated.

That's all for now, i'll try and get some current pictures up tomorrow.
 

CFM

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2006
Location
Wells, Maine
TDI
1995 Saturn with a 1997 TDI drivetrain.
There is a sticky at the top of the conversion section with a lot of good information on it, including some wiring information that G60ing provided when he put the original thread together.

Nice job on your swap!
 

e*clipse

Veteran Member
Joined
May 9, 2007
Location
Chico, CA
TDI
Toyota TDI swap
Hi Luke!

I finally got back to your questions. I've also sent some helpful resources! :)

Take care,

E*clipse
 

LukeWilson

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
Updates

Some more swap updates!

Here is a picture of the plate i had cnc lasered to mate the tdi to a W56 Toyota trans. You can also see the pilot bushing that my awesome machinist made for me from oilite.



Here is where is moved down the bracket for the steering stabilizer. Unfortunately i don't have a pic of what it originally look like, but it interfered with the VW steering pump and needed to be moved about and inch and a half down.


Next I took my bed off so that i could deal with the draining the fuel tank, removing the in-tank fuel pump and putting in new fuel lines. It takes about 15 minutes to take a Toyota bed off, 6 bolts to the frame, the fuel filler and tail light wiring.




Here is my solution to the in-tank fuel pump. The stock set-up of the truck had 2 fuel pumps a low pressure in the tank and a high pressure mounted to the block, both are electric. I was originally going to use the low pressure as a lift pump but it proved to pump at a higher pressure than the tdi pump is known to safely take.


Next i moved on to mounting the turbo. I am using a Mitsubishi TD04HL-15T off of a '99 Saab 9-5. I looked at the compressor and turbine maps and decided that it was worth a try. The only slightly annoying feature is that it is water cooled as well as oil. It is pretty simple plumbing but getting the right fittings has proven to be difficult.


Since the VW 1.6td manifold has a unique turbo flange and the Saab turbo has a T25 flange i had some plates lasered out of 1/2" mild steel so that i could make a adapter. The first is the VW, the second is the T25.






When i was looking at the turbo placement in the engine bay i ran into a couple issues. First was i didn't want it close to the starter as i know this has been an issue in previous swaps, second was having enough room to get the downpipe out of the back of it without hitting the firewall. I thought about doing something similar to Rockwell, but i don't have the clearance unless i move the engine/trans forward like he did. My solution was to put a jog in the adapter, not ideal but it works. I made the adapter using the two flanges i had cut and a piece of 2" schedule 40 pipe that i heated and squished. My mig welder is not powerful enough to weld to the 1/2" plate normally so i tacked the flange to the pipe and then heated the whole thing up cherry red with a hydrogen/oxygen torch and then welded it. Once it was pre-heated, i had good penetration and the bead laid down like butter. I also wanted to clock the turbo so the ic plumbing would be cleaner. You can clock the center section on these turbos easily, but to move the turbine and compressor housings separate from each other is not as easy. To do this i had to make a bracket to hold the wastegate actuator. There is a threaded hole on the turbine side which i used to mount my bracket to. You can see the threaded holes in the compressor housing where it was originally mounted.







Next i took out the EVAP canister and welded up a bracket to put the VW fuel filter in the same place. Note that my washer fluid bottle is only resting in the corner, i have yet to find a place for it.

 

LukeWilson

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
Just a quick shot to show that the factory Toyota power steering lines bolt directly into the VW power steering pump. There were a couple of bends that needed to be heated and straightened out, credit goes to my dad for that.


Here is a shot of how close the valve cover and firewall are, i guess i am going to have to wait and see as to how much the engine moves around.


This is my slightly modified AAZ intake manifold. It was slightly smaller that the rest of my IC piping so I welded on the 2" pipe so that it would fit it without funky reducers. Notice how the neck of it can be rotated 180 so it can point in either direction.


And the last one for now is my IC piping, i just need to weld a couple of the joints so i won't have quite as many silicone couplers. I am going to try and wedge the stock VW airbox into the bottom left corner of the picture, it was where the battery originally was.


The next big hurdle is the wiring. I have stripped pretty much everything out of the Toyota harness i needed such as the 4wd, reverse and hi/low gear stuff. I have been able to bump the engine over using the starter just by turning the key, so now i just have to integrate the VW harness into the mix.

That's all for now, i will probably have so more updates/questions in a couple days.

Luke
 

Ski in NC

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jul 7, 2008
Location
Wilmington, NC USA
TDI
2001 Jetta ALH 5sp stock
Having that turbo cantilevered out that far from the engine spooks me a bit. The 4 banger has a 2X buzz (second order vibration) in the vertical direction. Energy of the vibe is worse at higher revs. That will tend to work the structural mounting of that turbo. Don't be shocked if the welded coupler fails at a weld. Sometimes this can be fixed with a stiffening rod from turbo down to somewhere low on engine block.
 

LukeWilson

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
There will definitely be some kind of support to prevent (hopefully) things from failing from heat and vibration.


I am hoping some one can give me some hints regarding the coolant fan control module (J293). I have been able to successfully run the low speed fan by powering up the module and jumping the 1 and 2 pins on the coolant temp sensor. I can't get the high speed to run though, are there any other conditions that must be met before it will run? I know that the high speed will automatically come on if the A/C is engaged, but i'm not using A/C. The fan itself will run on high if i power it directly, there are no blown fuses although the metal blade fuse is 30A and i believe it should be 50A. The way i look at it either the module itself is bad or there has to be another condition to have the fan run. All of the A/C related stuff is unplugged currently. Anyone?
 

e*clipse

Veteran Member
Joined
May 9, 2007
Location
Chico, CA
TDI
Toyota TDI swap
Regarding the fan control, here's what I did:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8171423

Basically, you dump the VW fan control and replace it with a small and a large relay. The VW temp sensor switch can be used to control the relays.

It really is one of the simpler wiring things I did, and it works great! :D

e*clipse

** edit ** I'd have to 2nd Ski in NC's warning about the turbo. Even though mine is tucked in much closer, I have brackets for re-enforcing the mount. Remember the weight of the exhaust system will also be pulling on the turbo.
 
Last edited:

LukeWilson

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
A question for you guys about my power steering cooler.

Originally there was a loop of aluminum tubing stuck in behind the grille. My new radiator has a circuit for a transmission cooler (which i don't need). My question is whether or not it makes sense to run the power steering fluid through the radiator. I am not sure what the temperature difference is between the coolant and the PS fluid.

Also i'm not sure whether to run the VW spec PS fluid or the generic PS fluid the Toyota uses. My instinct is to go with the VW stuff, but if someone could verify it would be great.

Thanks,

Luke
 

410onefour

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2008
Location
Jasper alberta Canada
TDI
2003 jetta tdi wagon, 1991 toyota mtdi
I removed that loop of hose on mine and I haven't had any issues. I wouldn't worry about using the cooler in the rad but it would have some benefits. The rad cooler would also act as a oil warmer which would be great in the winter. Basically it would maintain engine coolant temp in your power steering system.
Which fluid to use is a good question. I used my toyota pump on my conversion so I use regular ps fluid. Since your using the vw pump some might say to use the vw stuff but imo you'll be fine with regular ps fluid. Nice work on your project. I garantee you will love it!
 

LukeWilson

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
Thanks 410onefour, i think i am going to try and use the extra loop in the radiator its easy to change if it proves to be a problem. On another note, i am trying to finish up some loose ends. What was the vacuum pump connected to in the car? I think i have one big line to the brake booster, one line to the EGR which is being deleted and another line i'm not sure about. I have yet to find a vacuum diagram for the 1Z engine that shows this.

I will try and update pictures later tonight, i switched the battery and airbox, soldered up the piping i needed for the cooling system and ran the turbo oil/coolant lines.

Luke
 

410onefour

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2008
Location
Jasper alberta Canada
TDI
2003 jetta tdi wagon, 1991 toyota mtdi
Hey Luke, it's probably a good idea to use the oil cooler in the rad on your project. My truck had some kind of speed sensitive steering and had what looks like another power steering gear on the passenger side frame. There's three or four steel lines that run from the steering gear to this box so I figured I had plenty of cooling capacity from the steel lines. I noticed in your pics that you don't have that system so some cooling is needed for sure.

I can't help you with your iz vacuum lines since mine is mtdi but on the toyota side the only things that needed vacuum was the brake booster of course and the 4wd solenoids.

I also wanted to mention that I relieved my oil pan to allow for front diff clearance and I lost quite a bit of oil capacity. I ended up removing the oil pan at a later date by removing the front diff. I increased the size of the oil pan on the other side of the diff relief. It now holds 4.5l of oil again. I was happy that I didn't have to pull the motor out again to do this.
 

Spulen81

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2004
Location
Warners, NY
You just need the booster connected to the vac. pump. In a VW there is a check valve inline with the booster hose and a small line that goes to the heater controls. You won't need the heater control vacuum.
 

LukeWilson

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
Thanks, that's what i thought. I won't need vacuum for the 4wd system on this truck because it doesn't have the ADD system, i've got the manual locking hubs.

I figure i lost about half a liter with the oil pan divot, but i will gain some with the remote oil filter. Once i fill it up completely i will see how much it takes, if its on the low side i will have to punch out the pan where i have lots of clearance. As for whether i can get the pan off without removing the engine or diff, i know if i jack the engine up a bit it will clear, I am not sure about when it is in its usual position.

Hoping fire it up on Friday, just have a bit more wiring but school keeps getting in the way!

Luke
 

e*clipse

Veteran Member
Joined
May 9, 2007
Location
Chico, CA
TDI
Toyota TDI swap
It's a good idea to use the PS cooling circuit in the radiator. I tried other methods, but that one worked the best.

Regarding PS fluid: I understand the Toyota uses ATF, while the VW uses PS fluid.

ATF has some seal-swelling additives in it, and I thought it might be best to stick with what Toyota was running.

I will say I've got some serious leak issues from the steering box or one of the connections to it. The VW pump seems fine.

I'm also thinking that the VW pump might put out too much pressure. The steering is very light - and it might be the cause of the steering box's leaks.

Thoughts anyone?:confused:
 

410onefour

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2008
Location
Jasper alberta Canada
TDI
2003 jetta tdi wagon, 1991 toyota mtdi
In general, rack and pinion steering systems require less pressure than the older link steering systems. The "tight" feeling on your system e*clipse might be because of less pressure. The leaks, if they are coming from the steering gear, probably means that your steering gear is worn out. Talking to the Marlin Crawler guys, these boxes are prone to wearing especially with big rubber.

The vw pump is capable of more pressure by shimming up the relief valve spring in the pump. Lucas oil products also makes a great snake oil for power steering systems. Makes pumps quieter and stops minor leaks. Works really well.
 

dennis1a4

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Location
Northern Manitoba
TDI
Toyota Integra TDI
My truck had some kind of speed sensitive steering and had what looks like another power steering gear on the passenger side frame. There's three or four steel lines that run from the steering gear to this box so I figured I had plenty of cooling capacity from the steel lines.
Just for everyone's information, that box on the passenger side frame rail is used for the rear ABS. It uses the hydraulic pressure of the PS system instead of electric pumps to power the ABS.
 
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