1986 Toyota 4runner - ALH Swap - Electronic Turbo Actuator Issues

[Jerretxx]

Hello, first off - I am new to the TDI world. I have always owned Toyotas & been an off road enthusiast.

Vehicle:
1986 Toyota 4Runner
Solid Axle Swap (Toyota front & rear axles)
37x12.50R17 cooper STT PRO
5.29 ring & pinion gearing front and rear
Spartan front locker
Yukon rear locker
Center force clutch
R150 5speed manual transmission
1.9L ALH TDI Engine from 2000 VW Jetta
.260 fuel injectors
GTB2056 Garrett Turbo w/ electronic turbo actuator (763797 or 6NW 009 543 G-048)
Tekmektronics tuning
2.5” stainless exhaust with muffler
Edge CTS insight module
Fast forward Auto complete wire harness

background: purchase vehicle 3 weeks ago. Swap was already completed. I did not build this vehicle

issue:
At purchase I was made aware of intermittent issue (previous owner acted as if it had only happened 1 time).

1. I drove vehicle 100 miles without issue.
2. (Day 2) Driving down interstate, lost all power, started smoking a lot, EGT went higher than normal. Parked, opened hood, saw that the connector (5 pin map sensor connector had unplugged from turbo actuator. Plugged in, started truck, no issue remainder of trip.
3. (Day 2) Cranked vehicle (cold) had no boost, had no turbo spool, blowing black smoke. Turned truck off, waited 30-60 sec started truck, all was normal. Power returned, turbo would spool, no smoke.
4. (Day 2) driving down road, all was well. Stopped at stop sign, upon starting, turbo wouldn’t spool, no power, black smoke. Pulled off road, turned truck off. Wait 30-60 sec started truck & all was normal.
5. (Day 4) driving down road, all was well. Stopped at stop sign, upon starting, turbo wouldn’t spool, no power, black smoke. Pulled off road, turned truck off. Wait 30-60 sec started truck & all was normal. Ordered replacement turbo actuator.
6. (Day 8-9?) installed new replaced turbo actuator, inspected linkage and actuator linkage moves very free. Started truck, noticed the actuator did not move, attempted test drive & had no power, no spool, black smoke. Parked truck, inspected connection found that pin had poor connection, trimmed plug got adequate connection. Started truck, turbo responded as it should, good power, quick throttle response, no smoke for approx 10-15 mile. Then while driving lost power, turbo won’t spool, black smoke.

Performed inspection of wiring: PIN 1 12V+ PIN 2 12V- and pin 4 is PWM. Had adequate voltage on pin 1-2. Difficult to get proper reading on pin 4 for PWM.
Traced all wiring. All connections look great, good connection from ECU to plug.
this engine is not utilizing the N75 valve from what I can tell. It appears that the signal wire from my ECU goes directly to in 4 on my turbo actuator.
I have contacted fast forward auto (harness supplier) but they can not assist. Their harness was designed for stock application with N75 valve not an aftermarket turbo utilizing an electronic actuator.

I have had the issue with both actuators. The original Garrett/Hella & also an aftermarket eBay brand. I am planning to replace the connector to ensure I have adequate connection on the pin 4.

any guidance would be helpful. I have reached out to Ross-Tech considering buying their software to assist with issue.

Jerret

 

[Jerretxx]

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pictures of the original Garrett/Hella 763797 & the replacement

 

[Jerretxx]

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[Jerretxx]

Removed MAP sensor, inspected, cleaned and cleaned although it did not have any debris. Reinstalled the original GARRETT/HELLA actuator (763797) verified and secured the connector and cleaned terminals. Cranked truck and the actuator operated to the appropriate idle position. Drove truck 15 miles, highway, back roads, stop signs, stop lights. Did as it should. Idled around 995-1000 RPM. Engine temp settled around 190-192F. Will continue to monitor, it’ll act up again.

 

[JELLOWSUBMARINE]

Sounds like you have a decent grip on the overral tdi/turbo and components operation, much better than me so I'm little heip there.

The two similarities I noticed are 1) black smoke/no spool 2) restarts in 30-60 seconds.

Too much fuel? Bad ground or alternator charge/voltage?

 

[Jerretxx]

Sounds like you have a decent grip on the overral tdi/turbo and components operation, much better than me so I'm little heip there.

The two similarities I noticed are 1) black smoke/no spool 2) restarts in 30-60 seconds.

Too much fuel? Bad ground or alternator charge/voltage?

which actuator are you using? Is yours electronic or is yours vacuum driven?

 

[Jerretxx]

Drove the truck again today. No issues with the turbo actuator. Drove it on the highway, start, stop, city, etc. everything worked as it should.
Also, replaced the low beam head light relay. Resolved the issue of only having high beams

 

[Jerretxx]

Drove the vehicle again today. Approx 12-15 miles. No issues. Turbo spool as it should, good power. Starting to learn toward the connection issue, however planning to continue testing until I have more confidence in the truck.

 

[Jerretxx]

Drove the truck yesterday and had no issues. Started, stopped, highway, zero issues.

Drove the truck today, first 10-12 miles were smooth. Was going 60 MPH for approx 5 miles. Stopped at light. Upon starting the turbo would not respond. Actuator was not 100% closed because the turbo did spool and build limited power at higher RPM. Stopped, opened hood and found that the actuator was not at 100% open when at idle. It was almost as if the actuator was “stuck” about 50% open. Turned the engine off, and after about 20 sec, restarted the engine. Turbo actuator went straight to 100% open. Drove home approx 5 miles and turbo actuated as it should, building great boost, and very responsive. Difference today compared to Monday - Wednesday is today was raining very heavy.

came home, parked truck. Left engine idling and turbo actuator was back to the correct position of 100% open. Turned vehicle off and actuator cycles as it should. Disconnected the connector plug from the actuator. Inspected the terminals and did find some black film on the male and female plugs. Cleaned everything as good as possible with q-tip. Added some dielectric grease and verified the connection. Connection is very tight and seems to be connecting as it should. Planning to continue driving and monitoring.

 

[jmodge]

I wonder if the electric actuator is overheating. Maybe try a heat shield or ducting, something along those lines. It just reminds me of having issues with cooling fan controllers that are mounted on the shroud. When spaced and shielded from the shroud, no more funky operations

 

[Jerretxx]

I wonder if the electric actuator is overheating. Maybe try a heat shield or ducting, something along those lines. It just reminds me of having issues with cooling fan controllers that are mounted on the shroud. When spaced and shielded from the shroud, no more funky operations

it’s very possible. I’ve thought about that the times it has failed while driving. Also had a couple failures when I started it and engine is cold. May look at what it could take to better shield it. Also wondered if something in the vanes could be heating up and binding as well

 

[Kramer]

Is this your tune guy?

He seems to be wiring it in using the B75 wiring.

Either way, I would get a VAG-Com (VCDS, whatever it is called now), It would probably help you solve this issue much quicker and is a valuable tool for this engine.

 

[Jerretxx]

Is this your tune guy?

He seems to be wiring it in using the B75 wiring.

Either way, I would get a VAG-Com (VCDS, whatever it is called now), It would probably help you solve this issue much quicker and is a valuable tool for this engine.

that is correct.

The harness wiring diagram also shows N75, however when the harness was built, it was utilizing the factory turbo which did utilize an N75 solenoid/valve

I have watched that video a few times and he is using the N75 wiring. I have spoken to the guy from Tekmektronics via email. He said the following:
“The actuator has 12v power, chassis ground, and PWM signal from the ecu.
A poor connection to the ecu, or the actuator being overloaded can put the actuator into a limp mode”

and also “Ross-tech can monitor the vane position output”

I also do have the factory VW. OBD connector so I can easily tie the VCDS system in, probably would have already purchased the system, but I don’t own a windows base computer

my connector looks to be in about the same shape as the one on the YouTube video. I’m ordering a new one also just to eliminate the
Possibility of connection issue

 

[Kramer]

Yeah, get a VCDS, take some logs when driving and see if you can catch it when it happens again, send them into your tune guy and see what he says. I can't remember the module numbers to include in the scan but I am sure someone here will.

 

[Jerretxx]

Yeah, get a VCDS, take some logs when driving and see if you can catch it when it happens again, send them into your tune guy and see what he says. I can't remember the module numbers to include in the scan but I am sure someone here will.

thank you for the info. I’ll look into getting this and see if I can start gathering the data

 

[Jerretxx]

Took the truck for a ride today. 2-3 miles into it truck went into limp mode and started blowing the smoke. Cycled the power a few times and did not seem to help. Parked, disconnected the edge insight module from OBD2 port. Attempted to drive again and didn’t see any change. Stopped for a second time and reconnected the edge. One the edge insight was synced to the truck, I started exploring the options it had. Found that I had 4 engine codes (attached) never powered the truck down and the engine started acting normal turbo actuator is acting as it should

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• Aug 10, 2024

 

[Jerretxx]

Planning to buy a windows lap top & order VCDS, but it may be a week or two.

how ever today I drove the truck a lot. This afternoon truck went into limp mode 2 times. Both times the MAP was stuck registering 36 PSI. 1st time limp mode I shut engine off & reset the MAP pressure & actuator worked as it should.
Second time I parked, left engine running, disconnected the MAP, reconnected MAP, cleared the P0107 fault & actuator worked as it should.
drove truck another 30-40 miles, cautious of MAP pressure (highest it was 33 PSI) and had 0 problems. Will continue to collect data until I get a lap top and VCDS

engine in limo mode data:

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engine in normal idle data:

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actuator position in limo mode:

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actuator position in normal idle:

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[jmodge]

Curious if you have a boost gauge, what your peak boost is, what it’s tuned to be, and what bar MAP you have.

 

[Jerretxx]

Curious if you have a boost gauge, what your peak boost is, what it’s tuned to be, and what bar MAP you have.

No boost gauge. Will look at MAP tomorrow. Sent all this data to the company that did tune. They told me to get VCDS and get all the data.

 

[jmodge]

Good advice on VCDS. A physical boost gauge will clearly let you know what’s going on also. An under range MAP will cause loss of control and likely pretty regular overboost. Range to large and it’s like having a TV screen so big it makes the picture fuzzy, resulting in some irregularities. VCDS combined with a boost gauge should tell you if the MAP is reading consistently, if you’re under or over boosting, and if your turbo is working in sync with your tune. Run the logs your tuner suggests and send him the logs

 

[jmodge]

And also, if you have a MacBook you can partition for windows and run VCDS. Can’t help with that, but I bought a MacBook from @Nuje that he set up that way.

 

[jmodge]

The possibility of an “overloaded controller”, is that maybe caused by an arc from a loose connection causing a spike in voltage? Nice truck btw, looks like fun. I hope you get it sorted out

 

[Jerretxx]

And also, if you have a MacBook you can partition for windows and run VCDS. Can’t help with that, but I bought a MacBook from @Nuje that he set up that way.

sounds great. But I have no idea how to do this

 

[Jerretxx]

Took some pics yesterday riding around the yard:

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• Aug 11, 2024

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[jmodge]

Post #17 is kind of telling. You're electronic boost reading being stuck at 36 psi. Sounds physically impossible, which will show with a boost gauge. Did you change the turbo or was it like that when you bought it? I didn't look up your codes, but most likely overboost? I'm suspecting maybe the MAP sensor wasn't changed along with the turbo. Another issue I see is no dirt, dents, or scratches on the truck, obvious underutilization issue going on there.

 

[Jerretxx]

Had the issue again today. 5th gear on the highway doing 55-60 MPH. No serious hill climb, no reason for increased boost or MAP pressure.
Map jumped straight to 36 ( didn’t see it jump at the same second but from testing it should have been hovering around 20-21 on PSI while cruising). Pulled over. Let truck idle, map wouldn’t drop below 36 PSI. Didn’t have check engine light or code. Unhooked MAP pressure dropped (actuator closed) hooked MAP back up, actuator opened and has been working as it should.

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[Jerretxx]

Post #17 is kind of telling. You're electronic boost reading being stuck at 36 psi. Sounds physically impossible, which will show with a boost gauge. Did you change the turbo or was it like that when you bought it? I didn't look up your codes, but most likely overboost? I'm suspecting maybe the MAP sensor wasn't changed along with the turbo. Another issue I see is no dirt, dents, or scratches on the truck, obvious underutilization issue going on there.

I bought the truck as is. The turbo that is installed was installed by the individual that built the truck. Just for clarification the MAP PSI is being stuck at 36. You referenced boost, may be the same but just want to clarify.

 

[jmodge]

It's stuck there because your turbo boosts more than what that MAP can read and goes into limp mode. Ask your tuner what MAP the tune calls for and replace it with the proper one. Make note of the hole size in your pipe, you may need to redrill the hole and/or get another grommet.

 

[Jerretxx]

It's stuck there because your turbo boosts more than what that MAP can read and goes into limp mode. Ask your tuner what MAP the tune calls for and replace it with the proper one. Make note of the hole size in your pipe, you may need to redrill the hole and/or get another grommet.

I sent the data to the Turner. replied by telling me to get VCDS. currently working on that at the moment.

 

[Jerretxx]

Looked at Windows based laptops today... wow, they're proud of them. You can buy an inexpensive lap top, but it wont meet the specs of the Ross-Tech VCDS requirement. Located an old Windows 7 Professional lap top that my parents had. Sent the data over to Ross-tech just to ensure this dinosaur could operate and perform as needed. Guess ill purchase the software once I get the green light from Ross-Tech support