1986 MK2 Golf 1.6na with air/con to TDI (ALH) conversion build thread / scratch pad

[rotaecho]

Howdy! I've recently purchased an 86' MK2 Golf 1.6na "Westy" car with functional (just not cold) air-conditioning. It's leaking coolant as a blown head-gasket, but runs. It's clean on the interior, body is straight, and best part I only paid $1000. I'm familar with conversions. I converted my 82' Vanagon Westy 1.6na into a mTDI (AHU), so not shy wrenching.

Currently my Vanagon Westy is my daily and plan is to make this Golf my new daily, as enjoy comfortable A/C whlie in the Arizona heat when not camping and traveling in Betsy.

The plan is to do an eTDI (ALH) conversion and being in PHX, I expect I'll need to at a minimum install a cat and muffler, but I'll worry about emissions when I get closer to that time. I'll do some mods though; stage 1, catch can, etc. But goal is to keep it pretty simple and "cheapish" since a daily and I want to get it up and running. Goal is 120-135hp which should be good enough for the car.

I also have a 1998 MK3 Jetta TDI (blown AHU) that I got for $500, and I've already made that back in selling some body parts off of it. I just got done stripping it down to the frame on stands and ready for the carcus to be hauled off.

From the MK3 Jetta TDI I grabbed a good 5spd transaxle (02a) which I read was better suited for the MK2.

Along with the ALH conversion, I plan to dump the bastard American electronics and convert it to a CE2; I have a CE2 Golf fusebox, CE2 fusebox MK2 Golf bracket, 92 jetta eco diesel engine harness, but still need to source the front-end MK2 harness and rear harnesses.

I also found a MINT MK2 CE2 GTD cluster with tacho for a whomping $350! I may use the MK3 cluster, but something about the GTD stock cluster is really appealing to me.

So, where has my research brought me;

To take advantage of the MK3 TDI mounts, I'm swapping over the sub-frame and front support beam. However, one question I can't seem to find a confirm or deny is if the MK3 fan assembly will bolt up with that arrangement or not?

I have read that it doesn't work with the MK2 subframe and rad support aka the "carrier", but will that work with the MK3 subframe? And if not, will it work with the MK3 rad support / carrier with the subframe?

As for the A/C system, I think it'd be easier to buy R12 to R134 high/low fittings on the hardlines, than swapping the lines out unless they are a direct fit; the MK3 lines looked a bit different to me. I'm going to adapt the ALH A/C compressor and hopefully the other bits will follow. I'm not sure if I should update the high/low switch to the modern MK3 / MK4 one or leave as is, but I'll work on that when closer to it. The MK3 had the FCM for the fan control and the MK2 Golf doesn't still on fence on how to control the A/C.

I'll be moving the MK3 front suspension stuff over to the MK2 as the PO already installed a GTI rear axle and disc brakes. The only issue there is it's running off the old drum ebrake cable so it's weak; I believe the fix here is a GTI hand brake cables.

I've read a few builds like JAX, but he used the MK2 rad fan assenbly he ripped the A/C out.

Thanks for any comments and feedback!

 

[oilhammer]

If you can use the AHU car's HVAC controls, that would help. They use a solid-state fan control module like (but not identical to) the later cars. They also used a non-cycling variable displacement compressor, same as the ALH, so if you can figure that out it would probably work the best. The R134a expansion valve will fit right on where the R12 one was. I converted my '91 Jetta decades ago to R134a, probably some time around '98.

For some reason I was thinking the A3 AHU car's front subframe will not bolt on to the A2's body, you instead have to find some other A2-derived car (like a Corrado or B3 Passat) to allow the use of the newer type cooling fan setup in that older car. But I am not certain.

 

[rotaecho]

Howdy OilHammer! I verified that I can use the MK3 subframe, but I would need to use the B3 front cross member to be able to use the MK3 rad & rad support. Being as B3's are super hard to get now days, I just decided to get the Fabless Manufacturing front support and upper MK3 rad mounts, so that's figured out.

Over at clubgti and vwvortex I found that you can use the MK3 and MK4 heater / HVAC core the MK4 being easier to retrofit, but they said if I already have A/C the MK2 one is good enough.

But it was suggested to use the MK3 FCM controls for the HVAC as you suggested, but use the dash controls for the MK2; apparently fitting MK3 dash controls for the AC in the MK2 is a bit more difficult. The only gottcha there is I need to be converted to CE2 first.

I just got a MK4 2D Golf TDI road-worthy for my nephew in St. Louis, and recommended you as a mechanic in the area for him, so now I can focus on my MK2 Golf project

 

[rotaecho]

I managed to find someone selling a complete CE2 swap from a MK2 91' Jetta petrol car in the PNW. Everything cluster and headlights to taillight including fusebox and stalks. I unfortunately, already bought a fusebox and GTD cluster and a MK2 92' Jetta ecodiesel engine harness. So, I'll have to sell some of it off, BUT that's everything I think I need to easily pull the old American wiring out and lay in the CE2 harnesses.

Hoping to get the Golf in the garage within the next two weeks and start stripping the front.

 

[rotaecho]

So, now that I've gutted the Jetta MK3 TDI and it's carcus is awaiting pickup in the morning, I'm revisiting the A/C stuff again; high on my list.

I was planning to use the ALH A/C compressor on the engine, but for some reason I then thought maybe I have to fit the MK3 one instead? I should be good to use the ALH compressor right?

This isn't necessarly directed to you OilHammer, but you mentioned what you did, so figured I'd build on that.

The obvious course of direction on the A/C would be to adapt the MK3 TDI FCM to the MK2 as once it's converted to CE2, I could just plug the MK3 FCM harness into the CE2 box and be "mostly" good to go.

The FCM isn't that horridly expensive for the MK4, when I replaced my nephew's it was around $60 shipped I think for a Febi. Is the MK4 FCM vastly better or better enough to use this unit instead of the MK3 FCM unit?

Would retrofitting the MK2 A/C lines with R134a adaptor plugs be best approach for that or should I find a R134a line that'd fit right up?

If you can use the AHU car's HVAC controls, that would help. They use a solid-state fan control module like (but not identical to) the later cars. They also used a non-cycling variable displacement compressor, same as the ALH, so if you can figure that out it would probably work the best. The R134a expansion valve will fit right on where the R12 one was. I converted my '91 Jetta decades ago to R134a, probably some time around '98.

 

[rotaecho]

So, still thinking about how to approach the A/C with the ALH conversion, here's my line of thinking so far. Anyone has any sage advice/expertise to throw in please do.

1.) From the reading, the MK2 A/C system seems overly complex compared to the MK3 & MK4 systems especially once you've converted to CE2.

From that reading it seems if I want to have recirculation with the A/C I have to upgrade my MK2 HVAC assembly.

Am I better off replacing the HVAC assembly (whole thing AC & Heater core) of the MK3 to the MK2?

If Yes, I've heard that the LHD assembly would fit right up, and I've read that the bulkhead needs modification, is there any actual concensus on the N/A side of the pond yet? Looking at the MK2 (nothing removed yet), and the disassembled MK3 they seem very close to location.

2.) Cockpit (inside car) controlling of the A/C. This is where things get a lil fuzzy for me. This ultimately is decided on #1's which HVAC assembly you use correct? And the decision of #1 is based around ReCirculation which I want to reduce the wear on the compressor.

2a) If I use the slider controls (MK2 factory) I can use a micro-switch in the slider housing to activate the recirculation function once at a certain range of A/C needed.

2b) If I use the round controls (MK3 factory) which I assume would fit in the same spot the old A/C controls did--if not please state something someone.

If both controls can be fitted into the MK2 dash, is one control method better than the other? Such as, do the MK2 tracks get dirty and jammed compared to the dials? etc. Just thinking which would be better lasting down the road over time, or both work equally well?

3.) FCM, If going the MK3 dual rad fan setup and A/C, the FCM is going to be part of this equation. As I'm using an ALH engine and have that side of a harness to the MK4 FCM, am I better off using a MK4 FCM or repin in the MK3 FCM plugs and remap the wires here?

4.) A/C Low & High lines. What's been people's luck here?

4a.) Retrofitting the existing MK2 lines and finding a MK4 compressor line adaptor?

4b.) Retrofitting the MK3 lines and finding a MK4 compressor line adaptor?

4c.) Having new Low and High lines created?

Thanks!

 

[rotaecho]

It was suggested to keep the MK2 A/C control functions (relay) than migrating to the MK3/MK4 FCM. Reason, a relay is easier and quicker to replace and the FCM is a speciality item and takes some diag; I know this with the MK4 as I rebuilt the whole A/C system on my nephew's MK4 Golf.

Basically, if the compressor doesn't run, it's either a bad compressor, relay, switch, or wiring than that and the other faults that can kill a FCM.

The radiator fan setup should still function off the radiator fan temp switch from the MK3 setup without the FCM needed, or if not I can wire it in.

So, think that takes care of #3

 

[rotaecho]

So, I forgot how to handle the stance issue.

The car already has a MK2 GTI rear beam with Disc brakes all good on that. The parts 98' jetta is gone, as I didn't think I'd need the rear beam.

I read that the control arms are longer on the MK3 vs the MK2s resulting in a difference in tracking / stance front to rear.

I'm not sure if that difference makes a wear issue on the tires or difficulty aligning, but if so then I need to convert it all to the MK2 stance.

I'm using a CTN transaxle and plan to use the MK3 power-steering rack, as the MK3 subframe for the TDI mounts.

To obtain the MK2 stance with the MK3 subframe & MK3 CTN TDI Transaxle am I on the right path needing to use:

1.) MK2 Control Arms

2.) MK2 axles; and if so, will they bolt right up to the CTN or do I need to modify something?

3.) MK2 tie-rods

 

[adamss24]

You best go to vw Gti forum and see the mk2 sections, the chaos there are a friendly bunch, many with decades of experience…have a read trough the posts ! I have done the swaps you’re about to do but my memory doesn’t serve me well as it was quite a while ago…anyway I have several golfs mk2 tdi, all with swapped ce2 wiring looms but no AC…didn’t find it that essential at the time !

 

[Bic Green]

Howdy! I've recently purchased an 86' MK2 Golf 1.6na "Westy" car with functional (just not cold) air-conditioning. It's leaking coolant as a blown head-gasket, but runs. It's clean on the interior, body is straight, and best part I only paid $1000. I'm familar with conversions. I converted my 82' Vanagon Westy 1.6na into a mTDI (AHU), so not shy wrenching.

Currently my Vanagon Westy is my daily and plan is to make this Golf my new daily, as enjoy comfortable A/C whlie in the Arizona heat when not camping and traveling in Betsy.

The plan is to do an eTDI (ALH) conversion and being in PHX, I expect I'll need to at a minimum install a cat and muffler, but I'll worry about emissions when I get closer to that time. I'll do some mods though; stage 1.5, ported head for air flow, etc. But goal is to keep it pretty simple and "cheapish" since a daily and I want to get it up and running. Goal is 120-135hp which should be good enough for the car.

I also have a 1998 MK3 Jetta TDI (blown AHU) that I got for $500, and I've already made that back in selling some body parts off of it. I just got done stripping it down to the frame on stands and ready for the carcus to be hauled off.

From the MK3 Jetta TDI I grabbed a good 5spd transaxle (02a) which I read was better suited for the MK2.

Along with the ALH conversion, I plan to dump the bastard American electronics and convert it to a CE2; I have a CE2 Golf fusebox, CE2 fusebox MK2 Golf bracket, 92 jetta eco diesel engine harness, but still need to source the front-end MK2 harness and rear harnesses.

I also found a MINT MK2 CE2 GTD cluster with tacho for a whomping $350! I may use the MK3 cluster, but something about the GTD stock cluster is really appealing to me.

So, where has my research brought me;

To take advantage of the MK3 TDI mounts, I'm swapping over the sub-frame and front support beam. However, one question I can't seem to find a confirm or deny is if the MK3 fan assembly will bolt up with that arrangement or not?

I have read that it doesn't work with the MK2 subframe and rad support aka the "carrier", but will that work with the MK3 subframe? And if not, will it work with the MK3 rad support / carrier with the subframe?

As for the A/C system, I think it'd be easier to buy R12 to R134 high/low fittings on the hardlines, than swapping the lines out unless they are a direct fit; the MK3 lines looked a bit different to me. I'm going to adapt the ALH A/C compressor and hopefully the other bits will follow. I'm not sure if I should update the high/low switch to the modern MK3 / MK4 one or leave as is, but I'll work on that when closer to it. The MK3 had the FCM for the fan control and the MK2 Golf doesn't still on fence on how to control the A/C.

I'll be moving the MK3 front suspension stuff over to the MK2 as the PO already installed a GTI rear axle and disc brakes. The only issue there is it's running off the old drum ebrake cable so it's weak; I believe the fix here is a GTI hand brake cables.

I've read a few builds like JAX, but he used the MK2 rad fan assenbly he ripped the A/C out.

Thanks for any comments and feedback!

HI I have a 1982 West also and looking to swap to a 1.9 AHU. Do you have an AHU engine up for grabs? Thanks Bic

 

[burpod]

here are some semi-crappy pics of what i did with mk3 for fmic, fans, AC, rad as i can take now. the boost pipes aren't perfect, but it's what i could do without welding myself (except for getting map sensor flange welded in). i would have to dig deeper into my pics to try and find any of this i did during the install. but i believe those are on my old phone which the screen is dead and i have yet to get around to taking the sim card and transferring to laptop...

engine bay is a bit messy, haven't driven/fixed this car in a couple years, some things have been taken out, not tidied up, etc

there is a little fuel cooler i snuck in there, with a switched valve for that. the switch for that will ideally be some thermo-controlled switch. until then i just plug a jumper in there or not. as it turns out, it's overkill. maybe for 2 months of summer it might be helpful, who knows... but it's in there now.

 

[rotaecho]

Yep, I've got posts going in vwvortex, gticlub as well. And ironically, MOST people just dump the A/C from their build, which simplifies a TON as baffles me; but for a drag race car I guess it makes sense. Also, many of them are on the UK, as information 10yrs old if not older and lot of the info dones't necessarly relate LHD vs RHD. I'm learning this on the A/C aspect.

You best go to vw Gti forum and see the mk2 sections, the chaos there are a friendly bunch, many with decades of experience…have a read trough the posts ! I have done the swaps you’re about to do but my memory doesn’t serve me well as it was quite a while ago…anyway I have several golfs mk2 tdi, all with swapped ce2 wiring looms but no AC…didn’t find it that essential at the time !

 

[rotaecho]

No I do not.

HI I have a 1982 West also and looking to swap to a 1.9 AHU. Do you have an AHU engine up for grabs? Thanks Bic

 

[rotaecho]

Thanks for the photos!

here are some semi-crappy pics of what i did with mk3 for fmic, fans, AC, rad as i can take now. the boost pipes aren't perfect, but it's what i could do without welding myself (except for getting map sensor flange welded in). i would have to dig deeper into my pics to try and find any of this i did during the install. but i believe those are on my old phone which the screen is dead and i have yet to get around to taking the sim card and transferring to laptop...

engine bay is a bit messy, haven't driven/fixed this car in a couple years, some things have been taken out, not tidied up, etc

there is a little fuel cooler i snuck in there, with a switched valve for that. the switch for that will ideally be some thermo-controlled switch. until then i just plug a jumper in there or not. as it turns out, it's overkill. maybe for 2 months of summer it might be helpful, who knows... but it's in there now.

 

[rotaecho]

Okay, got the 1.6na out of the Golf, and starting to get the other bits removed.

I was working on the CE2 conversion, as I got 90% of the bits. And my GTD cluster arrived yesterday!

And that's when I noticed the CE1 fuse panel (right door flap under steering wheel) isn't where the CE2 fusebox is located which is basically where the left most cubby is under the steering wheel.

I was told I can use a Euro lower dash to help fit the CE2 fusebox in an early style Golf, but that's where I am at currently.

Tearing down and fitting the CE2 stuff.

My ALH engines arrive on Saturday, then I can start working on the engine prep side of things.

I'm debating about sending the transaxle out to get rebuilt, LSD put in just to have that added piece of mind. I'm not sure if the 02a are anything like the 091, where they are a bit fragile till you beef them up.

 

[GTiTDi]

I would forget about AC and move out of Satans butt hole. AKA Arizona. LOL

 

[rotaecho]

Funny you say that, the plan WAS to rent this house out and buy out in the PNW, but inflation went sky high. So, now I'm in PHX taking care of the projects, renting the other house out collecting slowly till the opportunity presents itself again.

However, till then. I need A/C.

I would forget about AC and move out of Satans butt hole. AKA Arizona. LOL

 

[Nuje]

It was 36°C here today on the west coast of Canada (Portland area where we were this past weekend hit 40°C - 104°F).
Having A/C in a car here in the PNW is non-negotiable for me.

 

[oilhammer]

I can only add this: my '91 Jetta's factory A/C always worked great, until the compressor started to get noisy and I replaced it.... which I converted to R134a at the time. But as far as the dash controls, which are all vacuum operated, they always worked perfectly. I did have to put a new HVAC case in eventually when the foam finally gave up and I had no heat.

However, my main caveat with that system was that it was a fixed-displacement, cycling compressor. ON or OFF. Which, on a 52hp engine, you absolutely feel. But it wasn't something that was horrible, and whenever getting up to speed on a highway on-ramp was involved, reaching up and turning the A/C off (my car had no full-throttle cutout) was just normal. But the car's interior was easily and quickly cooled down to meat locker levels so quickly, that having it off for the few (or, tens of a few) seconds it took to get up to speed was not a big deal.

The single fan was also quite loud on high, and during summer, it was pretty much always on high in city driving. You could hear it from the driver's seat. But... it worked.

My '98 was a breath of fresh air, in that it used the now-familiar variable displacement non-cycling compressor, and with an engine that had nearly twice the power in a car that probably only weighed one fat chick more...

 

[rotaecho]

I can only add this: my '91 Jetta's factory A/C always worked great, until the compressor started to get noisy and I replaced it.... which I converted to R134a at the time. But as far as the dash controls, which are all vacuum operated, they always worked perfectly. I did have to put a new HVAC case in eventually when the foam finally gave up and I had no heat.

I'm a bit confused about the HVAC case part. I have a MK3 whole HVAC/heater core unit, but I didn't notice at time if the HVAC removed from the heater core part. My research has been stating you can swap the whole MK3 HVAC AC box over to the MK2 box, or one can swap the evaporator unit from a B4 Passat into a MK2 HVAC box, and some other variations needing the firewall modified. I got all the parts to make the evap lines work. You mention you can swap the expansion valve over, does that mean you were able to use the MK3 (not a B4?) upper HVAC box (where lines come out for expansion valve) without modifying the firewall oriface?

However, my main caveat with that system was that it was a fixed-displacement, cycling compressor. ON or OFF. Which, on a 52hp engine, you absolutely feel. But it wasn't something that was horrible, and whenever getting up to speed on a highway on-ramp was involved, reaching up and turning the A/C off (my car had no full-throttle cutout) was just normal. But the car's interior was easily and quickly cooled down to meat locker levels so quickly, that having it off for the few (or, tens of a few) seconds it took to get up to speed was not a big deal.

The single fan was also quite loud on high, and during summer, it was pretty much always on high in city driving. You could hear it from the driver's seat. But... it worked.

My '98 was a breath of fresh air, in that it used the now-familiar variable displacement non-cycling compressor, and with an engine that had nearly twice the power in a car that probably only weighed one fat chick more...

Yah, the updated TDI engine and using MK3 radfan assembly should mitigate that load on the engine. I am also thinking of a high amp alternator (120a vs the 90a).

Thanks for the points!

 

[oilhammer]

I think all the A2, A3, and A4 cars (along with any of the B cars that were based on them) use the same basic "form factor" HVAC case arrangement. But it has been so long since I've had anything but an A4's out I could not tell you specifics.

I want to say I used the 6N0-820-679-C expansion valve which fit most all the early R134a cars.

 

[rotaecho]

So, I have been on the fence about going with a 10mm or 11mm IP as to what turbo to run. I got a PD150 for the intake for flow.

Someone was selling a GT1744v turbo on a BHW manifold that I bought as a 11mm IP (from a 136k beetle) for $600. I figure it's cheap enough if I take it as a $300 for each split. I can't find much information on the turbo, but I can always use it for another project if it doesn't work out and just get something else; hybrid GT15, 17, 17/22, etc. Same with the 11mm IP if a 10mm IP would be good enough.

That leads me to my next question, I think I'm going with DLC520 stg3 nozzles, as they'd yield similar to stock and if not better MPGs than the stock nozzles looking at the specs. Yet, provide enough umph and power to pass the sleepy semi or dumb driver. The HP rating for the DLC520stg3 is 110-130hp, not sure on the torque rating, but I've been adding 80 on top of the HP rating to gauge an estimate number of about 210tqlbs. I'm using a LUK 17-050 DMF clutch rated to about 270 I think it is, so I feel I should be good. I'm using this same clutch on my mTDI Westfalia with over 100k thus far on this clutch. I also have (Cerebral Palsy) and my left leg isn't the strongest / spasms often, and it's held up well with that, but not be overly stiff I can't push it--no I have no desire for an automatic.

Goal is to keep the steller MPGs since it's a daily-driver, but a bit more umph than the 90hp. Does my choice seem about what people would suggest on their experience?

I'm also on the hunt for a Passat B4 lower radiator front cross member, if anyone has one willing to ship to AZ. I got the Fabless MK2 front cross-member setup, which is beefy and lets me use the MK3 radiator setup.

However, I wasn't aware (or not knowledgable to know better lol) that they used a G60 front mount bracket setup to the two starter bolts on the transaxle. Which makes changing the starter out a real pita. However, I'm just not too convinced that mount wouldn't prevent much vibration compared to the stock mk3 TDI mount. So, it'll work till I locate a Passat B4 front cross member rad support. So, the search I was hoping to avoid, is on.

I found my set of ARP head bolts which have been sitting in a box for ages, so I think engine will get this along with a 2.0 TDI O/C worked well on my Vanagon and nephews MK4.

I still need to dive into the CE2 wiring debacle. I have the dash partly pulled, and had to order some lower dash trim for allowing the CE2 fusebox to fit. Now I'm just trying to either find a decent MK2 front end wiring harness or hack the MK3 one up as one instead; been told the MK2 one is just a better fit with the proper light plugs, so less overall BS to deal with.

Lil each day

 

[rotaecho]

Thanks! I'll get some research going on that!

I think all the A2, A3, and A4 cars (along with any of the B cars that were based on them) use the same basic "form factor" HVAC case arrangement. But it has been so long since I've had anything but an A4's out I could not tell you specifics.

I want to say I used the 6N0-820-679-C expansion valve which fit most all the early R134a cars.

 

[Mozambiquer]

So, I have been on the fence about going with a 10mm or 11mm IP as to what turbo to run. I got a PD150 for the intake for flow.

Someone was selling a GT1744v turbo on a BHW manifold that I bought as a 11mm IP (from a 136k beetle) for $600. I figure it's cheap enough if I take it as a $300 for each split. I can't find much information on the turbo, but I can always use it for another project if it doesn't work out and just get something else; hybrid GT15, 17, 17/22, etc. Same with the 11mm IP if a 10mm IP would be good enough.

That leads me to my next question, I think I'm going with DLC520 stg3 nozzles, as they'd yield similar to stock and if not better MPGs than the stock nozzles looking at the specs. Yet, provide enough umph and power to pass the sleepy semi or dumb driver. The HP rating for the DLC520stg3 is 110-130hp, not sure on the torque rating, but I've been adding 80 on top of the HP rating to gauge an estimate number of about 210tqlbs. I'm using a LUK 17-050 DMF clutch rated to about 270 I think it is, so I feel I should be good. I'm using this same clutch on my mTDI Westfalia with over 100k thus far on this clutch. I also have (Cerebral Palsy) and my left leg isn't the strongest / spasms often, and it's held up well with that, but not be overly stiff I can't push it--no I have no desire for an automatic.

Goal is to keep the steller MPGs since it's a daily-driver, but a bit more umph than the 90hp. Does my choice seem about what people would suggest on their experience?

I'm also on the hunt for a Passat B4 lower radiator front cross member, if anyone has one willing to ship to AZ. I got the Fabless MK2 front cross-member setup, which is beefy and lets me use the MK3 radiator setup.

However, I wasn't aware (or not knowledgable to know better lol) that they used a G60 front mount bracket setup to the two starter bolts on the transaxle. Which makes changing the starter out a real pita. However, I'm just not too convinced that mount wouldn't prevent much vibration compared to the stock mk3 TDI mount. So, it'll work till I locate a Passat B4 front cross member rad support. So, the search I was hoping to avoid, is on.

I found my set of ARP head bolts which have been sitting in a box for ages, so I think engine will get this along with a 2.0 TDI O/C worked well on my Vanagon and nephews MK4.

I still need to dive into the CE2 wiring debacle. I have the dash partly pulled, and had to order some lower dash trim for allowing the CE2 fusebox to fit. Now I'm just trying to either find a decent MK2 front end wiring harness or hack the MK3 one up as one instead; been told the MK2 one is just a better fit with the proper light plugs, so less overall BS to deal with.

Lil each day

The 1744v is stock on an AFN engine..kinda halfway between the size of a vnt17 and vnt15

 

[burpod]

if you're out west and ever travel at high elevation, i'd consider nothing smaller than a 1752 for a standard old-gen GTB turbo. it's really not that "big" as it's made out to be. 11mm .260s is my favorite fueling setup even when mpg is the goal

 

[rotaecho]

Howdy! I think you're possibly the FB member I bought it from! Awesome thanks, a VNT15 and VNT17 middle ground is likely a good spot for a MK2 Golf!

The 1744v is stock on an AFN engine..kinda halfway between the size of a vnt17 and vnt15

 

[rotaecho]

I'm in Arizona based, and travel to the PNW often as to St. Louis, MO. And this car would likely only see city and semi far travel.

I've been daily in a mTDI Westfalia with a AHU w/12mm IP and DLC764 nozzles pushing almost 7000lbs with the hightop. I currently have a GT2052 which spools fairly quick for the van--but I plan to put a VNT17 on this winter. I figure I'm at least 135hp, but it's a whole different beast than a MK2 4d Golf. Lot bulkier in the city, just Beluga the whale. So, this would be my around town car, zip to vegas or other spots an hour away, and anywhere where I need A/C.

I've never driven a VNT setup other than a VNT15 on a stock ALH Golf & Jetta (neither tuned), but stock both felt a bit weak.

That said, I guess any VNT turbo above or even at stock with a tune may surprise me.

if you're out west and ever travel at high elevation, i'd consider nothing smaller than a 1752 for a standard old-gen GTB turbo. it's really not that "big" as it's made out to be. 11mm .260s is my favorite fueling setup even when mpg is the goal

 

[Mozambiquer]

Howdy! I think you're possibly the FB member I bought it from! Awesome thanks, a VNT15 and VNT17 middle ground is likely a good spot for a MK2 Golf!

Yup, that's me!

 

[rotaecho]

Still collecting parts, and been dragging a lil. I hope to make some progress on the CE2 swap soon.

I realized I never posted photos. She's got a few dings, front pass fender crap paintjob, but all lil stuff when I'm ready to hit the body/looks aspect of things. The Interior is clean, only issue I found so far was the dash bezel was cracked in multiple places.

86' Golf 1.6na soon to be TDI

• rotaecho
• Aug 22, 2023
• 3

86' Golf 1.6na soon to be TDI

 

[oilhammer]

Yep, I had one of those... sold it to tooef, who promptly tooefed it. Hence the term "tooef"

Urban Dictionary: tooef

To mess something up, to break it beyond reasonable repair

www.urbandictionary.com