Well, let me tell you first that I've used all kinds of belts on these, and the best are the Gates Green Stripe V-belts. Yes, they are better than the Continentals.
Second, in order to change over to non-AC, you'd need to change quite a few things. It would probably be easier to fix the AC.
Next, there is some things you need to look very closely at to be sure the new belts don't self-destruct in a few miles. Look closely at the alternator pulley, the alternator belt tensioner pulley, as well as the small pulleys on both the water pump and the PS pump. If you turn them sideways, the groove should resemble a "V". If it has worn, and resembles a "U" instead, that pulley is worn out and needs to be replaced. The most common culprits are the alternator and tensioner pulleys, because they are the smallest. Usually the pulley on the compressor clutch is fine, because it is so much larger it hasn't spun around nearly as many times as the tiny alternator-related ones.
The listing for the alternator belt is too long...more on that later. The AC belt and PS belt should be fine by their normal listing. I do not have the Gates numbers in front of me but I can get them. But as I recall you knock 5 off the end of the alternator belt listing. So, if it calls for a 1575, get a 1570.
When you go to install the belts, do this: remove the alternator. Only takes about two minutes, just be sure to remove the battery ground cable first. Then, set your new alternator belt over the inner groove of the AC compressor pulley, and leave it lay loose on there.
Next be sure both the big Allen bolts on the compressor's pivot side are loose, and both the 13mm nuts on the sliding side are loose. Loosen the tensioning bolt as far as it will go without falling out, and push the compressor all the way down. With the alternator off this is VERY easy. Install the AC belt, then gently tighten it up with the tensioning bolt. Be careful that the compressor slides freely. I also crank the engine around by hand a couple times about halfway through to be sure the belt is properly seated and not bound or hung-up anywhere. Also keep an eye on your alternator belt hanging loose on the compressor. Don't overtighten this belt, as it also drives the water pump and it can take out the water pump's bearings if too tight. Once in place, secure the pivot Allen bolts and the 13mm slider nuts. Be sure everything is in place and looks straight.
Then go ahead and install the PS belt. Remember there is a "hidden" bolt on the lower pump bracket, near the lower radiator hose. And don't forget to loosen the pivot bolt. Again, do not overtighten this as it also turns the water pump. The pump should swing up and down freely. If it doesn't, something is bound up. You can easily drop the whole thing out the bottom of the engine to investigate. Two bolts near the rear of the block for the bracket that goes under the crank pulley, two going up into the block along the oil pan, and the pivot bolt/spacer assembly.
Finally, install the alternator's lower mounting bolt. This will allow the alternator to pivot further down, which along with the tensioner being completely loose will make installation of the [smaller] belt easier. Once the belt is flipped up on to the alternator's pulley, you can lift the alternator's body up into place and attach the upper mounting bolt to the bracket going over to the head. I always loosen the bracket's attaching bolt at the head to it pivots as well. Then tighten the alternator's fasteners, reattach the wiring, and tension the belt via the little 13mm tensioning bolt. Be sure the tensioner pulley's 17mm mounting nut is loose but not so loose it allows the pulley to wobble on the bracket. Do not overtighten this belt. That is the biggest mistake people make. It is a small belt and only turns the alternator, it needn't be very tight. You can always snug it up later.
Finally start the engine and let it get warm. Check the tension of all the belts, especially the AC and alternator belts. If you need to, snug them now. First snug the AC belt, then snug the alternator belt. Notice where the alternator belt tensioner lives...now you'll see why I like the shorter belt...if everything works out, it'll be right about in the middle of the travel. This way, you have plenty of adjustment left if you need to snug it later. Since the alternator belt is driven by the AC belt, every time you tension the AC belt you loosen the alternator belt signifigantly. The shorter belt gives you a better margin.
Also, if your lower skidplate/sound shield is not in place, at least by the cheaper gasser belt guard and stick that on. It only costs about 20 bucks and will greatly help the life of the belts.
I'm assuming you've changed the oil and fllter? Coolant? 
