Yes.TheTDIWagonGuy said:Does that mean that I need to get my SKC code to set it up?
Nope, 7-digit SKC's were never supplied on key tags, those always had 4-digit SKC's. Remember, the 7-digit SKC is only an encrypted 4-digit SKC.TheTDIWagonGuy said:Is the SKC code the 7 digit number that was on my key tag when I bought the car?
OK.. Now I know. I thought the code on the other side was for the key.Sebastian said:Then these are 2 separate numbers, not one 7-digit one. Actually these numbers are used to cut keys, so not immobilizer related.
I am having the same problem on a 1.8 N/A petrol golfUwe said:No, 2003 cars did not come with SKCs on any tags.
Try cold-booting the car. Remove both battery cables from the battery. Short the battery cables together (away from the battery) for aboyt 15 seconds. Reconnect the battery. No guarantees, but I've seen this fix similar problems and it doesn't cost much.
It doesn't. VW did not distribute 4- or 5-digit SKCs in any form after 2001. You *could* get a 7-digit encoded SKC from the dealership, but they were never printed on tags for the customer. That stopped in 2005.TheTDIWagonGuy said:Thats odd that I have a small sticker on the back of my key code tag that has 7 digits. It is 2 numbers over 5 numbers with no letters if that makes a difference.
Then your system is working to design. New keys, or any key for that matter, should not work UNTIL they are adapted, and all keys have to be done at the same time... again, by design.raktym said:I also have this code stored. The car starts and runs fine. I had two keys cut and they opened the door ok but after I started the engine with one the engine shut down after a few seconds . The keys were not programed because I do not have the SKC. Its an 03 jetta
ECMbuster is telling the truth. I had a hard time believing that a pass card would mess up the immo - but it did. Remove the card and all was fine.ecmbuster said:penclnck A pass card with RFID behaves the same. Ask Bruce at Ross-Tech, he seen this live while I was teaching the VW/Audi CAN class with Immobilizer.
Just placing the card beside the key and a start would set the lamp and fault. If I held it the right way, there was a no start. That test was on a 2004 R32 and a 2004 A4Q
Anything RFID, even another key will "disturb" the reading process.
I'm been providing technical support to just about everything that has an electrical pulse for 15 years and I always laugh at these high tech solutions. Reminds me of my Sony camcorder E:61:00 errors where you need to whack it hard a couple times to unfreeze the lens so it can focus again.TheTDIWagonGuy said:Uwe.... YOU ROCK!!!
I LOVE simple solutions.
Took the battery leads off connected them together for 30sec just to be sure , put the leads back on and....
I was questionning the value of 2 in field #1 of mesuring block 25. I always tought that this was a Yes/No field. But the label files say that the value of 2 is "Comm. with W-Line, and 1 was "Comm. with CAN-Bus". Is this a redundant communication system? Can someone at Ross-Tech explain a bit more, maybe with year milestone of VW changing the comm path between ECU and cluster?TheTDIWagonGuy said:Instument Measureing Blocks:
There are times when corrupt data gets written into the Immobilizer box and trashes the keys out of the system. The worst case will always be battery power or hard cranking, yes expect the Immobilizer to misbehave.maherc84 said:I have about had it up to my eyeballs with my 2002 VW Cabrio's Immobilizer. The car was working fine the other day. I went to go start it, it would turn, crank and then immediately die. I kept trying... Eventually it would turn, turn, turn and never crank. So what did I do? I took it to the dealership and they said it was the immobilizer and that they needed to reprogram my keys... fine. They charged me $120.00 to reprogram my keys and then called me to let me know that they programmed both keys (one of which I thought they said could not be programmed) and told me that my car would not start.
Again, low battery voltage or a starter (connections, powers and grounds) can set this fault easily. Do a complete electical test on the battery, alternator and starter BEFORE condemning the Immobilizer.maherc84 said:When I asked him what it was doing, he said it was turning over but would not start. I knew that this started to happen earlier when I was trying to start the car when the immobilizer had kicked in, but I just figured it to be part of the problem as well.
In your case, you didn't have a very intelligent technician working on the Cabrio. This is now back to basics. You need three things to light up that engine.maherc84 said:I took my vag-com up to the dealership last night, tried to start the car with what used to be my master key, and guess what? I get 17978 P1570 - Engine blocked by immobilizer. Go figure, right? I cleared the code and tried the other key(the one I was told could not be programmed) and did not get an immobilizer code, but the car still would turn but never start. The techs notes on my receipt, states that the cars timing was perfect, that it has spark, and it has fuel, but he doesnt know how much fuel it's getting. At this point I am totally frustrated because the dealership is telling me it is going to be another $106.00 to look at the car and if he goes over his time and cant figure it out it will be another $106.00. So here I am with a car, still parked at the dealership, when you use one key it throws an immobilizer code, the other key does not (the one I was told could not be programmed), the car has spark, timing is fine and it has fuel, just not sure how much fuel and I dont have the money to waste on him "trying" to figure out what is wrong with my car, especially if it is going to cost me $200 just to find the problem. HELP!