1.9 TDI BLS whistle when accelerating

[004matteo]

Hello!
My 1.9 TDI Touran (i think the engine code is BLS, I found it in the boot near the tools to lift the car) has a very noticeable whistle when accelerating. You can hear it whistle and sucking it air. I didn't think much of it but when I went to have my emissions tested it failed (on the black sticker hidden by the driver's door it says 0.6 and I got 1.06). The car does indeed spit out a lot of dark gray smoke and there is also some smoke from under the bonnet when accelerating hard. You can also smell exhaust fumes in the cabin when the A/C is turned off. The engineer there told me it's because I didn't drive it properly (relatively low revs and a lot of town driving) but I'm suspecting it's something to do with this whistle.
I tried looking for damaged hoses but I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. I did however notice that the hoses that come from the EGR and enter the intercooler (that's what I think they are?) are quite dirty, while everything else seems to be clean.
Any ideas?

 

[Tdijarhead]

You have an air leak. Somewhere in the hoses connected to your turbo or egr. That’s what is causing the whistle and the smoke that failed your inspection. Check all your hoses for splits and cracks, check your fittings to be sure they are tight.

 

[pedroYUL]

BEW here in North America is well known to break the lower EGR pipe, and indeed you get a whistle and soot all around where the pipe breaks.

 

[pedroYUL]

This one, it typically breaks by the flex portion: https://www.idparts.com/egr-cooler-lower-pipe-bew-038131521cc-v10-0011-p-1422.html

 

[Seatman]

Hello!
My 1.9 TDI Touran (i think the engine code is BLS, I found it in the boot near the tools to lift the car) has a very noticeable whistle when accelerating. You can hear it whistle and sucking it air. I didn't think much of it but when I went to have my emissions tested it failed (on the black sticker hidden by the driver's door it says 0.6 and I got 1.06). The car does indeed spit out a lot of dark gray smoke and there is also some smoke from under the bonnet when accelerating hard. You can also smell exhaust fumes in the cabin when the A/C is turned off. The engineer there told me it's because I didn't drive it properly (relatively low revs and a lot of town driving) but I'm suspecting it's something to do with this whistle.
I tried looking for damaged hoses but I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. I did however notice that the hoses that come from the EGR and enter the intercooler (that's what I think they are?) are quite dirty, while everything else seems to be clean.
Any ideas?

They're your boost pipes, could have a small leak somewhere but they're often dirty looking. What people are suggesting though is the silver metal pipe that goes between the exhaust manifold and and egr valve. Look for a sooty area on it or around the ends where it bolts on.

 

[004matteo]

This one, it typically breaks by the flex portion: https://www.idparts.com/egr-cooler-lower-pipe-bew-038131521cc-v10-0011-p-1422.html

A relative of mine has the same engine and they also had the same pipe break. I don't know if I can inspect it without taking off anything but I'll try tomorrow.
I did find some traces amount of oil near one of the pipes that connects to the turbo (the one that comes from the intercooler). I'm guessing that might also be the culprit?

 

[004matteo]

You have an air leak. Somewhere in the hoses connected to your turbo or egr. That’s what is causing the whistle and the smoke that failed your inspection. Check all your hoses for splits and cracks, check your fittings to be sure they are tight.

By splits and cracks what do you mean? Should I expect some massive split that is easily visible or something minor also?

 

[pedroYUL]

A relative of mine has the same engine and they also had the same pipe break. I don't know if I can inspect it without taking off anything but I'll try tomorrow.
I did find some traces amount of oil near one of the pipes that connects to the turbo (the one that comes from the intercooler). I'm guessing that might also be the culprit?

To inspect the lower EGR pipe you either get under the car, or try with a flexible mirror from the top. There won't be a huge crack, the accumulated soot will give it away instead.

 

[pedroYUL]

Air pipes to and from the intercooler will collect some oil that the turbo let pass. Not a bad idea to disconnect the lower intercooler connect and drain any oil inside the intercooler.

Otherwise, this oil might lead to a runaway condition.

 

[Tdijarhead]

By splits and cracks what do you mean? Should I expect some massive split that is easily visible or something minor also?

Usually a split is rather small. Often they can be found by looking for oil residue being forced out those cranks.

 

[004matteo]

Air pipes to and from the intercooler will collect some oil that the turbo let pass. Not a bad idea to disconnect the lower intercooler connect and drain any oil inside the intercooler.

Otherwise, this oil might lead to a runaway condition.

I went to a mechanic today and they said the same. They plugged the car into VCDS and it had overboost codes. Apparently the car makes a lot more boost than it's supposed to.
The mechanic I went to said he can't really help me since it's a specialised job, however he said that the turbo is most likely fine and that the vanes in it are probably stuck.
Not sure what to do next. I don't know how much it would cost me to remove the turbo from the car (he said it's quite a difficult job since it's difficult to access) and, more importantly, how much it will cost to clean the turbo and fix the vanes issue. I've read the actuator could also be faulty, not the vanes inside of the turbo. I'm guessing it's a much easier and cheaper job than taking off the whole turbo and cleaning it. Any tips?

 

[Seatman]

I went to a mechanic today and they said the same. They plugged the car into VCDS and it had overboost codes. Apparently the car makes a lot more boost than it's supposed to.
The mechanic I went to said he can't really help me since it's a specialised job, however he said that the turbo is most likely fine and that the vanes in it are probably stuck.
Not sure what to do next. I don't know how much it would cost me to remove the turbo from the car (he said it's quite a difficult job since it's difficult to access) and, more importantly, how much it will cost to clean the turbo and fix the vanes issue. I've read the actuator could also be faulty, not the vanes inside of the turbo. I'm guessing it's a much easier and cheaper job than taking off the whole turbo and cleaning it. Any tips?

There's a vacuum actuator on the turbo connected to a lever from the turbo, get to that and work it back and forth. You'll hear it crunch a bit but it's that lever controls the vnt mechanism. Working it should help free things up a bit. It won't be a permanent cure but it'll keep you going for now.

Ideally you'd remove the turbo and strip it down to get to the vnt properly but it can be a bit of a job.

 

[004matteo]

There's a vacuum actuator on the turbo connected to a lever from the turbo, get to that and work it back and forth. You'll hear it crunch a bit but it's that lever controls the vnt mechanism. Working it should help free things up a bit. It won't be a permanent cure but it'll keep you going for now.

Ideally you'd remove the turbo and strip it down to get to the vnt properly but it can be a bit of a job.

Is it safe to just move the actuator rod by hand? Do I need to somehow remember the position in which the rod was before I moved it? Also, if it changes things, does that mean the actuator itself is broken or that doing the moving manually I unstuck something in there? And if it is the actuator that's broken, hoe difficult is it go change?
I already got the number of a turbo repair shop. They offer free consultations (they check your car's turbo, I guess, and then they tell you what's wrong with it). I'm probably going to go see what they have to say as well, it doesn't hurt to check.

 

[pedroYUL]

The actuator should move thru the range with vacuum applied to it. Moving the lever, with the actuator attached is going to be difficult, but you can free the actuator from the lever, or even take the actuator off the turbo and then exercise the lever.

 

[Seatman]

Is it safe to just move the actuator rod by hand? Do I need to somehow remember the position in which the rod was before I moved it? Also, if it changes things, does that mean the actuator itself is broken or that doing the moving manually I unstuck something in there? And if it is the actuator that's broken, hoe difficult is it go change?
I already got the number of a turbo repair shop. They offer free consultations (they check your car's turbo, I guess, and then they tell you what's wrong with it). I'm probably going to go see what they have to say as well, it doesn't hurt to check.

Engine off, no need for it running or to be hot. The actuator is bolted in place, the rod length is set already, you're just moving it through it's range it would normally move if it wasn't sticking.

If it all moves fine then the vnt isn't sticking

Here's what you're looking at

Vacuum operates the actuator which moves the vnt lever which in turn adjusts the vnt mechanism. Often with overboost the vnt mechanism is sooted up with carbon and this causes it to jam a bit. Moving that vnt lever can help break off some of the carbon allowing the vnt mechanism to move again.