1.6 TDI & Clutch Torque limit for 5-gear manual transmition

[frg-x]

I have Golf 7 1.6 TDI CXXB 110hp/250nm, 5-gear manual transmission MQ250. I want to swap my 1244 turbo to gtd1449. What is my clutch limit (nm)? What is a bottleneck?
Also how much power/torque I could get from this engine+transmission without decreasing their lifetime?

 

[frg-x]

up!

 

[adamss24]

Probably your gearbox and will complain and clutch might slip if torque is not capped...

 

[frg-x]

Probably your gearbox and will complain and clutch might slip if torque is not capped...

I've already remapped it to 140hp/300nm, but need some more in a poor budget))
Maybe swapping stock turbo to gtd1449 and remapping could make for example 170hp.
But it will be much more torque than my clutch can hold... Is it possible to have 170hp, but 310nm torque limit?
Or have 140hp/300nm,but much more torque shelf and power shelf?
What would you advice to me?

 

[adamss24]

I would advice you to keep it at that power level and if you need more to sell yours and buy a 2.0 tdi…you will get a better engine to start with…

 

[YanCT]

Your EA288 TDI CXXB can easily handle it. Your transmission too.

My engine code is CLHA (105hp-250nm stock) EA288 CR on a 2013 Golf MK7.
My Transmission code is MWW (5 speeds manual).

Stock power was 103hp and 245nm // Now power is 207hp @ 4245 rpm and 420nm of torque.

I'm still on stock clutch. Had to replace it at 160 000kms, I simply took the stock version. The car is now 180 000. Mods have been made between the 60 000 and 130 000kms of the car.

Rude climate on my island (wet and hot all the year). 5w40 (yes, 5w40) Oil change every 15 000kms. All is ok. Transmission oil change every 80 000kms with 75w80 and additive (yes VW tells us it's a lifetime oil but I disagree).

The torque is so high that yes... you need to avoid making it to slip ! (It's the reason why I had to replace it prematurely). Simply drive the car with some slip when needed but the rest of time just be smooth. Change gear after gear, do not press accelerator pedal like an ******* when pressing clutch and all will be ok.

Engine modifications sum up :

- Stock turbo Garrett GTD1244vz changed to Garrett GTD1449vz @ 2.2bars. Full pressure is get at around 1800-1900rpms full throttle (yes it's a bit later than with stock turbo... the car is pretty laggish under 1700 but it's OK...

- EGR OFF // DPF OFF // CATALYST OFF. The big downpipe allowed me to get a more responsive car under 1800 rpms ( a few more torque) and reduce EGTs, equalizing the loss of torque un low rpms due to bigger turbo.

- Injectors has been upgraded from the stock ones to GTD 2.0 TDI ones (04L130277G to 04L130277AE). Nothing else has been upgraded on the fuel system. Everything is ok for 2000bars injection. Remap has been made after injectors upgrade, allowing my engine to enjoy shorter injection duration, less smoke, more power.

- BMC OTA air intake

- Turbo muffler delete (larger diameter turbo outlet without muffler)


I have made many other modifications such as (Kufatec Sound booster in engine bay and exhaustg, Rearview camera, Full LED car, R-Body) and I can tell I love this car, I love this Engine !

 

[resto1975]

I am running a 170bhp turbo with 2.5" free-flowing exhaust on standard fuel system @ 220bhp and 410Nm on a 5 speed.
Not sure it will hold forever but I will upgrade to a 6 speed if it fails.
No issues for a year but I don't dump the clutch at the lights

 

[zaharel91]

....

- Injectors has been upgraded from the stock ones to GTD 2.0 TDI ones (04L130277G to 04L130277AE). Nothing else has been upgraded on the fuel system. Everything is ok for 2000bars injection. Remap has been made after injectors upgrade, allowing my engine to enjoy shorter injection duration, less smoke, more power.

-............

hello!
at least is the car drivable after changing the injectors? i am looking for the swap on my 2.0 tdi cffb with 170hp turbo.

 

[YanCT]

If the car would not be drivable I would not be here posting about this POSITIVE experience