'06 Jetta alignment, flywheel problems

ScottBob

Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2014
Location
S.E Louisiana
TDI
2015 Jetta SE
My '06 Jetta with 165K miles has a developed a pronounced wobble at low speeds, and vibration / alignment problem (pulls to the left) pretty bad at higher speeds over the past year. So I'm thinking bad bearings or CV joints?

It also sounds like the flywheel is going bad; it sounds like a bunch of loose change flying around inside the motor right after I start it (goes away after it warms up).

So my thought is to schedule it for a flywheel replacement. They have to pull apart the drivetrain and suspension to get at the transmission anyway, so why not roll it all into one job, replace bearings/CV joints/etc. at the same time and save labor, right?

The only engine problems I'm having at the moment seems to be an occasional loss of prime on the fuel system- sometimes on the first crank it will hit real hard (almost like a backfire) and stop. Then when I try to crank it again it takes a long time of cranking (almost until the battery is dead) before it finally fires up again. Other than that, it runs fine, and I get around 38 mpg city driving, 45 on the hwy, no loss of power, it'll get up and go (smokes like a dump truck when it does, though).

What causes the loss of prime on the fuel system? Maybe one cylinder fires while the injector is still open and blows the fuel out of the fuel line? Camshaft or timing issue? The timing belt was last changed at 105K miles, and the next time I change it, I think I'm going to put in a new cam whether it needs it or not (maybe even a Colt stage 2.)
 

narongc73

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2005
Location
VA/OH
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI
CV joints should be fine unless there's a tear in the boot. So check that first. As for the bearings, you should be hearing some kind of roaring noise going down the road if it is indeed bad. I'd have it looked over first instead of just replacing the parts just because. My bearings and cv's are still good at 181k.
 

GreenLantern_TDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2014
Location
Iowa
TDI
2015 GOLF SEL
Look for Trusted Club Mechanic in your area. Be careful with that loose change in the engine it can blow apart and ruin the transmission.
 

Kalter|Tod

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2012
Location
Wyoming
TDI
2006 Jetta (BRM)
Bad inner cv joints will cause the car to wobble at low speeds def check the cv axles.... If the inner joints are worn it will cause this.... They will also cause the car to pull.

As for the marble or coin rattling noise the DMF is the most likely suspect for that issue... just to be sure though does the noise change when the clutch is engaged?

As far as the engine issue I would check the turbo actuator and make sure that it is operating properly.... What color is the smoke? As far as the no start issue not sure on that one..... Does the car fire up and die then not restart? I have had a Bad EGR valve cause this.... worth a shot to look at the egr? Is the MIL on? Do you have VCDS or access to it.

It will be needed for proper diag.
 
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ScottBob

Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2014
Location
S.E Louisiana
TDI
2015 Jetta SE
Bad inner cv joints will cause the car to wobble at low speeds def check the cv axles.... If the inner joints are worn it will cause this.... They will also cause the car to pull.

As for the marble or coin rattling noise the DMF is the most likely suspect for that issue... just to be sure though does the noise change when the clutch is engaged?

As far as the engine issue I would check the turbo actuator and make sure that it is operating properly.... What color is the smoke? As far as the no start issue not sure on that one..... Does the car fire up and die then not restart? I have had a Bad EGR valve cause this.... worth a shot to look at the egr? Is the MIL on? Do you have VCDS or access to it.

It will be needed for proper diag.
As for the flywheel- It has the DSG trans.

When I start it- It puts out a huge puff of brown smoke. No smoke at idle, cruise or normal acceleration, it only smokes when I stomp on the gas.

As for the few times it wouldn't start- Engine had cooled off overnight (I live in Louisiana, so not freezing cold). Right after I turn the key, it would "hit" once or twice but then stop firing. Then it takes a minute or two of continuous cranking before it starts firing again; like I said it seems as if the fuel lines were full of air and it takes a while to purge it out. There are no leaks in the fuel lines; perhaps the fuel is draining out of the filter back into the tank?

No MIL or any other check engine lights. I don't have access to a VCDS cable.
 

Kalter|Tod

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2012
Location
Wyoming
TDI
2006 Jetta (BRM)
As for the DSG Trans..... I would look into getting the dmf replaced.... it is only a matter of time before it grenades..... With the smoke on startup I have not a clue. Could be the ASV is not working properly.... I would make sure that the ASV is open when you try to start the car.... You can check operation by removing the charge are pipe from the manifold.... it will not throw an MIL unless u rev the engine.... The other Likely suspect would be the maf.... you can unplug it and see if the car acts any different... just be warned it will throw an MIL. If the car runs better/ starts better with the maf unplugged the maf is more than likely your issue.

For the no start issue I would check that the intank fuel pump is working... then from there I would replace the fuel filter if it has not been done already. If neither of those are suspect I would look at the cam driven tandem pump. It is easy to check the intank pump, it should run for a few seconds when the key is turned on.
 
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ScottBob

Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2014
Location
S.E Louisiana
TDI
2015 Jetta SE
I was thinking of taking it to the local dealer for the 160,000 mile service (Southpoint VW in Baton Rouge. Any reviews? I didn't see anything listed for Louisiana in the trusted TDI mechanics list.) They'll change all fluids and filters (trans included), and check the suspension, drivetrain, alignment, etc., but I know they'll charge extra if something like the CV joints need replacing.

As far as the flywheel- I've put 30,000 miles on the car since I first noticed the rattling (even driven it from BR to to Va. Beach and back). But ever since it started wobbling and pulling to the left, and knowing the flywheel may "grenade" at any time, I've only driven it short distances around town. Also, I didn't want to get any suspension/drivetrain work done if it'll all have to be taken apart again to get at the flywheel.

I'm sure a dealer will charge much more than an independent shop to replace a flywheel. (There is an independent shop in town that say they work on VWs, but their business focus is mainly on BMW and Mercedes.) So if it's cheaper to have it done by an independent shop but I have to rent a dolly and haul it out of state, then I'm not really saving anything, unless it turns out to be thousands cheaper...
 

deming

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2003
Location
Illinois
TDI
(2) 2005 TDI Passat Wagons
Find a really good TDI guru within a few hundred miles of you and take the car to them. The VW dealership will drain your wallet and then empty your savings account and they will not give you the best repair nor the best value for hard earned money.

Just my .02.
 

GreenLantern_TDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2014
Location
Iowa
TDI
2015 GOLF SEL
Dude if you go by the 80,000 mile timing belt interval your due for a timing belt. Add DSG service, Add DMF, Add the suspension issue.... Your looking at "Guesstamations" timing belt $1500 DSG service $1200 and DMF $1600...
If you go to the dealer your looking at $4400. Whats the NADA value of your car???? Im not an insurance guy but Its probably a total loss.
 

deming

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2003
Location
Illinois
TDI
(2) 2005 TDI Passat Wagons
Buy your own TDI parts and stick with a reputable / independent TDI Guru for the labor OR unload the car privately and buy something else.
Hmm -- Those repair / parts guesstimates seem a bit high.
www.idparts.com, www.kerma.com - etc.
 
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325_Guy

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2011
Location
West Central Texas
TDI
MkV Jetta
Dude if you go by the 80,000 mile timing belt interval your due for a timing belt. Add DSG service, Add DMF, Add the suspension issue.... Your looking at "Guesstamations" timing belt $1500 DSG service $1200 and DMF $1600...
If you go to the dealer your looking at $4400. Whats the NADA value of your car???? Im not an insurance guy but Its probably a total loss.
Hookers and blow included in that price, ya?
 

ScottBob

Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2014
Location
S.E Louisiana
TDI
2015 Jetta SE
Yeah, $4400 is a bit steep if I have to bite it all off in one chunk. But it's still cheaper than trading it in for something else (it's paid off). And besides that, I like my "dirty Diesel"; it fits like a glove, has all the bells & whistles I like (sun roof, heated seats, power everything, etc.) and it's not affected by the "clean Diesel" scandal.

So I'm thinking of ordering my own flywheel and then asking the local independent BMW/Mercedes shop (who also works on Volkswagens) if they can change it and fix the alignment/wobble problem. Chances are that they at least have experience with the same problem on gasser Jettas and other VWs.

The timing belt was last changed at 105k miles. I can probably hold off til next year for engine work; by then I'll have paid off the flywheel replacement, and can save up for timing belt/cam replacement (and lifter pump if that's what's causing intermittent loss of prime on the fuel system), and locate a good TDI mechanic to do it (or even step off into it and do it myself).
 

relumalutan

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2012
Location
Michigan
TDI
2011 Audi A3 TDI, 2006 VW Jetta (Sold)
Buy your own parts, try to DIY as much as you can, if not find a trusted mechanic. Don't take it to a dealership or a big shop, where they will charge you a lot.
My car was pulling bad to the left just like yours, I've inspected the CV joint, and the boots were cracked, grease gone. Bought one from Raxles for $280, watched the video: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/vw-jetta-axle-removal-mk5/ and replaced it myself in one hour.
DMF: $380 from http://www.dieselgeek.com/DSG_Flywheel_for_2006_Jetta_TDI_03G_105_266BE_p/dsg-flywheel.htm Took the car to local mechanic, paid $400 for labor.
Timing belt, $239: http://www.dieselgeek.com/BRM_TDI_Timing_Belt_Kit_p/tbk-brm.htm, paid $200 for labor. I was too scared to tackle the job myself, next time I'll do it.
Camshaft kit (Frank06). I heard Frank recommends The BEW camshaft in the BRM, due to its lobes not being so harsh on the lifters, $1,275 from: http://shopping.boraparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=681
DSG service, buy the fluid and filter $120 from ID parts http://www.idparts.com/dsg-transmission-service-kit-40k-p-941.html , watch the procedure, DIY in an hour using the measurement method: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/d...cement-service-vw-and-audi-stronic-oil-flush/

In my opinion, your fuel problem might be caused by the fuel pump, or more likely by the EGR valve being stuck open, allowing too much exhaust back in the engine, chocking it. Endless cranking in an attempt to re-start the engine doesn't help with anything, I believe there is a EGR valve position reset that is engaged about ten minutes after the engine is turned off. Next time you have the issue, just wait like 20 minuets after the initial crank, and then attempt to turn the engine back on. Let me know if that works.
 
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DonsJetta

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 27, 2015
Location
Hershey, PA
TDI
2006 Jetta Special Edition
Awhile back I had the same no start problem, it comes and goes. But instead of just cranking, I floored the throttle while cranking and this helped. Obviously, this would be the in tank pump not working but I can hear the pump. It's been starting fine lately. I guess I need to check grounds.
 

ScottBob

Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2014
Location
S.E Louisiana
TDI
2015 Jetta SE
Well, I'm thinking I'm gonna step off into it and change the flywheel myself (and the other things between the flywheel and the wheels as needed). I do have mechanic experience working on other vehicles (once upon a time I would change clutches, drive shaft U-joints, etc. on my own Toyota and Dodge trucks that I've owned over the years; and I lost count of all the other work I've done on other cars for my friends and family, like radiators, A/C compressors, engine control modules, etc.)

I find it ironic that I used to do a lot of mechanic work in the days before the internet; but now that there's a wealth of information on this forum (and other VW forums) and online parts places like Dieselgeeks and Idparts that sell "everything you need" kits, it just seems that as of lately I just don't have the time to work on cars anymore (other than basic maintenance that can be done in one afternoon, such as oil changes or brake jobs). Maybe the fact that I moved away from the place I once lived in my younger years and no longer have a fully enclosed garage to work in anymore (I now have only an open carport) also has something to do with it...

So I think the first thing I'm gonna do is buy myself a Christmas present- a VCDS cable; and go from there...
 
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GreenLantern_TDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2014
Location
Iowa
TDI
2015 GOLF SEL
VCDS and Bently manual for your repairs. I know how you feel about doing your own work. I usta do it all.... Frame off restores.. Motor and tranny swaps... The list goes on and on but the older i get i just wana pay someone to do it. The stress and time it takes aint worth it. Having a nice enclosed shop makes a big difference too. If youve got the room to move a guy can get alot done.
 

ScottBob

Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2014
Location
S.E Louisiana
TDI
2015 Jetta SE
Just a little update... I decided to do an inspection to see what I'm dealing with, so I jacked up the front end and put it in neutral and spun the tires to see if there's any wobble or play. Well, I noticed that the driver's side tire had excessive tread wear on the inside- but in only one spot. I took the tire off, and discovered there was an elongated bulge on the inside of the tire; it seems that the tread is beginning to separate in that one spot. I mounted the spare, and drove it around, and lo and behold, no wobble, no shuddering, it rides as smooth as glass even at 80 mph; and when I take my hands off of the steering wheel, it drives as straight as an arrow, no pulling to one side whatsoever. So the alignment and shuddering problem seems to be the result of a bad tire. Luckily the tread didn't totally peel off while driving! :eek:

So I guess a new set of tires is due when I get my income tax return check. At least my worries about replacing axles and CV joints is laid to rest. But the ol' flywheel still rattles, and the fuel system still somehow occasionally loses it's prime, where I have to crank-a crank-a crank-a crank-a crank-a continuously for a good minute or so before it finally starts.
 
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