'06 BEW Killed 2 MAP Sensors in 2 weeks

Joined
Jun 11, 2024
Location
Florida, USA
TDI
'06 Mk4 Golf TDI GLS 5spd
Car has about 235,000 miles. I bought it about 10 months ago with 220k miles. During maintenance, I found the MAP sensor wiring was improperly routed, and was rubbing against the serpentine belt. The insulation was worn in one area on all 4 wires, exposing bare wire, but the wires were all intact- no broken or missing wire strands. I went ahead and individually wrapped the wires with electrical tape, tucked them back into the wire loom, and routed them as they should be. All was well for 15,000 miles.

A few weeks ago, the car went into limp mode, very low power. CEL was on with code P0652, "Sensor reference voltage 'B' circuit low". Looking at live data I could see that the manifold absolute pressure was reading static at 19 kpa, even when engine was not running (atmosphere should be 101 kpa or 29.92inhg, approximately...). I bought a new bosch MAP sensor, and it immediately read 101 kpa with the engine off, atmospheric pressure. Kpa increased with throttle/boost. Code cleared, all good, normal boost for 2 weeks and a few hundred miles. The old sensor was coated in oil, as I do have a good amount of oil which seems to be coming from the crank case ventilation and contaminating the intake. I assumed this is what killed the old sensor. As a precaution, I rechecked the 4 wires as far as I could (until they disappear into wire loom with other harnesses etc), to be sure they weren't shorting to each other or something else. All appeared ok.

Well, a couple of weeks and a few hundred miles later, the car goes back into limp mode, same code, and the new MAP is reading 40 kpa and is stuck there no matter what the engine is doing. I pulled the sensor, and it appears visually clean, though I'm sure there could be a very thin oil film. I cleaned the sensor just in case with isopropyl alcohol (not sure what the appropriate cleaner is, but figured I'd be buying a new sensor anyways, and wanted to see if the value changes).

I'm not sure if I should be pursuing an electrical issue taking out the sensor, or oil contamination. I couldn't imagine that a non-visible oil film would immediately cause catastrophic damage to the MAP sensor, but could it? Is there a source for what voltages I should be seeing from the ECU to the sensor? I assume I should check each wire to ground, and continuity between each wire- Do I need to unplug ECU for this? I thought I saved the old sensor, as I wanted to compare ohm readings, but I can't find it. Is there a chart for ohm values of the sensor? At this point, I plan on replacing the CCV and cleaning the intake, then throwing another sensor at it, but hate to start a habit of routine sensor replacement if it's not the issue.

Thanks for any insight
 
Joined
Jun 11, 2024
Location
Florida, USA
TDI
'06 Mk4 Golf TDI GLS 5spd
Installed 3rd MAP Sensor today. Sensor immediately failed. Reading 50kpa.
New code: P0113, "Intake air temperature sensor 1 circuit high bank 1"

Intake air reads about 32C.

I can plug the other two sensors in, and they are stuck at their respective values of 19kpa and 40kpa. I haven't compared ohms of the new sensor, but the ohm readings on the old two sensors were far off. I will recheck later and post.

Voltage between wires 1-2: 4.96 v, between wires 3-4: 3.6v

Normal?

With computer disconnected, there is no continuity between any of the 4 wires, or any wire to ground.

High-end multimeter used that is able to measure in megaohms.


OTHER issues: MAF is reading 0. Related?

Also, since this has happend, AC compressor will not run until engine reaches approx 2k rpm. Idle or driving. I find that odd unless the computer is locking it out? Both fans are running. Possible computer issue causing all of this?
 

jokila

Vendor
Joined
Dec 3, 2004
Location
Houston, Texas
TDI
2003 Jetta GLS, Manual
I believe there is a problem with some of the PD engine cars where the wiring from the MAP ends up fraying down by the turbo actuator wiring. I may have it jumbled, but the power to the MAP and a few other components are shared coming from the ECU and the wiring shorting against itself will cause bad readings.
 
Joined
Jun 11, 2024
Location
Florida, USA
TDI
'06 Mk4 Golf TDI GLS 5spd
Appreciate the reply. According the the Bentley manual, wires 3 and 4 are indeed for the MAP sensor. Searching the forums, it looks like the ECU is feeding 5v to the MAP sensor where mine is receiving 3.6v (sensor disconnected, measuring between pins 3-4). Losing voltage somewhere. Shorting to another circuit makes sense.

I'll try to track down the wiring and find where it's shorting to.
 

TedDidIt

Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2025
Location
Jersey Shore
TDI
05 Jetta TDI wagon, 250k+
Not sure if this is related, one of the first things I had to do to my Jet was to rewire the ground for the crank sensor. The car {05 jet wagon BEW} was wired such that the crank sensor ground connected to some other units ground. sorry so vague. It is a well known issue for the 05. In my travels with this car I have found the corrugated wire protection to have failed in some hidden spots, especially under the battery tray. Pin out the schematics as thouroughly as possible. weird stuff happens when wires tangle.
good luck
 
Joined
Jun 11, 2024
Location
Florida, USA
TDI
'06 Mk4 Golf TDI GLS 5spd
I inspected the wires from the MAP sensor up until they have a straight run under the windshield and they are intact all the way, insulation in good condition. Also removed the back of the harness and a few inches of the cloth tape to inspect there, looks innocent.
I then confirmed wires 3 and 4 to MAP sensor are not shorted to ground and are not shorted to any other wire of either ECU harness.

I have excellent continuity to MAP wiring, end to end, measuring with harness disconnected. I ohmed out wires 3 and 4 individually, to every single pin of both ECU harnesses. They are the healthiest set of low votlage wiring that anyone has ever seen... I did find that the wires terminate on different pins than the Bentley schematic specifies (perhaps it was the ALH schematic, can confirm later), but this would not be a factor in terms of continuity or shorting. I have the pin numbers written down for future reference so I don't have to ohm them out again.

After this, I decided to take a closer look at my grounds. The ECU ground connections under the windshield, near the front of the ECU, looked ok externally, but once removed, revealed a significant amount of corrosion. I was convinced I had found the problem that in my mind was the answer to low voltage on the reference circuit. I cleaned them thoroughly, then also cleaned the grounds underneath the battery tray for good measure. This did not correct the issue. Still 3.5v at the MAP sensor, while the thermistor side of the sensor remained at 4.96v. I have a brand new MAP, but am afraid to hook it up in case it fries it right away again. I will compare resistance values to the old sensors. I wish I had another TDI nearby to test my sensors and confirm sensor failure and compare voltages...

After that, I decided to remove each fuse and check for signs of corrosion, simply removed and replaced them a few times to help "scratch some fresh contact points". A couple of pulled fuses revealed a light, white powdery corrosion (aluminum corrosion?) I cleaned those ones more throughly, and they look nice and shiny now. I tried to find grounding points under the dash while down there, but I didn't see any (did I miss them?).

This may be nothing, but on the positive side of the circuit: above the battery, there is a terminal board, and then 3 fuses that end up connecting to a smaller 3-wire harness that plugs into the fuse side- I disconnected and measured from each wire of this harness to the positive terminal. Battery voltage approx 12.56v. Wire 3 to positive battery terminal is about 12.09v, wire 2 is 12.34v, and wire 1 is 11.64v. My biggest concern is that wire 1 has almost a 1 volt drop. Could this be a factor? I have not traced to where these wires lead, but I would suspect at least one of them is the ECU? Perhaps I should expect a voltage drop considering the resistance of reading through computer circuits...


At this point, I am highly suspicious of the ECU itself. Reading live data, I have 3 readings that are not accurate. One is the MAP, second is the MAF, and third is the throttle percent (showing 95% throttle at idle, and stays there even if I press the accelerator). I don't believe these issues were progressive after the initial failure, I think I just overlooked that they weren't reading correctly. I have not cleaned, ordered, or tested the MAF sensor or circuit yet... I should make note I have been using a generic code reader. I will be borrowing a VCDS soon, so maybe this will shed more light on the issue.

Is it possible that another sensor is shorting or faulty, such as the MAF, and is causing issues with OTHER sensors? I know Jokila mentioned something like this above, but it sounded more like the two circuits had chaffed and were shorting to eachother, but is not the case, at least with the MAP sensor.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jun 11, 2024
Location
Florida, USA
TDI
'06 Mk4 Golf TDI GLS 5spd
I ohmed out the MAP sensors and the MAF sensor.

4 separate MAP sensors, #1 is the original failed sensor, then #2 and #3 are the used replacements I thought were fried, and #4 is brand new, never used. All Bosch sensors from Amazon.

All thermistor values were basically the same. Didn't write down the value, but we'll assume it's good.

MAP, resistance measured between pins 3-4.
Sensor #1: 5.460 kohms
Sensor #2: 1.547 kohms
Sensor #3: 1.586 kohms
Sensor #4: 1.647 kohms

The first sensor appears to definitely be a failed sensor. The 3 newer ones are very close, though the brand new one is slightly higher than the two others. MAP pressure on sensors #2 and #3 do not change with throttle, and are not reading normal atmospheric pressure with engine off.
It does appear these sensors are "good" based on ohm readings and assuming they are within a range of tolerance. I suppose pressure testing the sensors could offer clarity as well.

The MAF sensor appears to actually be bad. 5 pins, #1 is not actually used..

Pins 2-3: Open, but occasionally would read 15-30 megohms and then read open (O.L).
Pins 4-5: 318.3 kohms
Pins 2-5: 310 kohms - maybe this is a sign of a partial short, or maybe it's normal, as I don't know how it's wired internally.

Harness side of MAF
Pins 2-3: 12 volts
Pins 4-5: 2 volts

Could 12 volts be shorting over to the lower voltage side inside the MAF and damage the ECU? I disconnected the MAF and there was no effect on the MAP sensor or it's voltage.

The MAP sensor has some kind of epoxy sealant that is cracking away, bubbly, but can be scrapped off in a goop- maybe from getting cooked? Not sure, but it looks really suspect.
 

wonneber

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 12, 2011
Location
Monroe, NY, USA
TDI
2014 Jetta Sportwagon,2003 Jetta 261K Sold but not forgotten
I inspected the wires from the MAP sensor up until they have a straight run under the windshield and they are intact all the way, insulation in good condition. Also removed the back of the harness and a few inches of the cloth tape to inspect there, looks innocent.
I then confirmed wires 3 and 4 to MAP sensor are not shorted to ground and are not shorted to any other wire of either ECU harness.

I have excellent continuity to MAP wiring, end to end, measuring with harness disconnected. I ohmed out wires 3 and 4 individually, to every single pin of both ECU harnesses. They are the healthiest set of low votlage wiring that anyone has ever seen... I did find that the wires terminate on different pins than the Bentley schematic specifies (perhaps it was the ALH schematic, can confirm later), but this would not be a factor in terms of continuity or shorting. I have the pin numbers written down for future reference so I don't have to ohm them out again.

After this, I decided to take a closer look at my grounds. The ECU ground connections under the windshield, near the front of the ECU, looked ok externally, but once removed, revealed a significant amount of corrosion. I was convinced I had found the problem that in my mind was the answer to low voltage on the reference circuit. I cleaned them thoroughly, then also cleaned the grounds underneath the battery tray for good measure. This did not correct the issue. Still 3.5v at the MAP sensor, while the thermistor side of the sensor remained at 4.96v. I have a brand new MAP, but am afraid to hook it up in case it fries it right away again. I will compare resistance values to the old sensors. I wish I had another TDI nearby to test my sensors and confirm sensor failure and compare voltages...

After that, I decided to remove each fuse and check for signs of corrosion, simply removed and replaced them a few times to help "scratch some fresh contact points". A couple of pulled fuses revealed a light, white powdery corrosion (aluminum corrosion?) I cleaned those ones more throughly, and they look nice and shiny now. I tried to find grounding points under the dash while down there, but I didn't see any (did I miss them?).

This may be nothing, but on the positive side of the circuit: above the battery, there is a terminal board, and then 3 fuses that end up connecting to a smaller 3-wire harness that plugs into the fuse side- I disconnected and measured from each wire of this harness to the positive terminal. Battery voltage approx 12.56v. Wire 3 to positive battery terminal is about 12.09v, wire 2 is 12.34v, and wire 1 is 11.64v. My biggest concern is that wire 1 has almost a 1 volt drop. Could this be a factor? I have not traced to where these wires lead, but I would suspect at least one of them is the ECU? Perhaps I should expect a voltage drop considering the resistance of reading through computer circuits...


At this point, I am highly suspicious of the ECU itself. Reading live data, I have 3 readings that are not accurate. One is the MAP, second is the MAF, and third is the throttle percent (showing 95% throttle at idle, and stays there even if I press the accelerator). I don't believe these issues were progressive after the initial failure, I think I just overlooked that they weren't reading correctly. I have not cleaned, ordered, or tested the MAF sensor or circuit yet... I should make note I have been using a generic code reader. I will be borrowing a VCDS soon, so maybe this will shed more light on the issue.

Is it possible that another sensor is shorting or faulty, such as the MAF, and is causing issues with OTHER sensors? I know Jokila mentioned something like this above, but it sounded more like the two circuits had chaffed and were shorting to each other, but is not the case, at least with the MAP sensor.
Where are you getting these sensors?
Local parts store?
Are they real Bosch?
I'm not saying parts store sensors but I'm wondering about the ones you are getting.
When you get VCDS lets see if it finds anything.
 
Joined
Jun 11, 2024
Location
Florida, USA
TDI
'06 Mk4 Golf TDI GLS 5spd
Could there be a bad throttle pos sensor?


Nice! I can't wait to get some of that 0ohm wire.
haha

good luck
Perhaps, but my throttle works fine. I will see if the VCDS offers the same values.
With my setup I'm reading about 0.4ohms on the MAP wiring, consistent with other working circuits.
 
Joined
Jun 11, 2024
Location
Florida, USA
TDI
'06 Mk4 Golf TDI GLS 5spd
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