04 BEW VNT 17 boost creep issues?

[Ryder1032]

Hey everyone. So I just finished a rebuild on my 04 BEW as it had a runaway, got a new turbo core due to damage that occurred to the old one from the runaway. Rebuilt the engine and have has no issues running whatsoever but I’m noticing that I get bad boost creep the odd time. Actuator was bench tested opening at 4hg and closing at 18hg. It would randomly spike from 23psi or so and slowly climb to 26-27psi until I let off the throttle and this morning I saw it spike up to 29psi and immediately let off the gas to let it go down so I know that something is wrong.

Info on the car;
The car is an 04 Golf BEW with a Garrett VNT-17 (newly replaced Meyle core from cherry turbos with less than 4K kms on it), Kerma smart actuator, straight pipe, PD150 intake manifold and turbo inlet pipe, as well as a Malone stage 2 tune. Have a Sachs g60 clutch and flywheel kit on the way.

I’ve been reading into it and I’ve heard it is more of a tuning issue but I genuinely don’t have a strong enough knowledge on tuning to pinpoint how or what. I had the tune done by a licensed Malone tuner but it didn’t seem like he wanted anything to do with me when the tune was being done and after. Could have just been a bad day but still was pretty disappointed in the service. I had explained to the shop owner who was doing the tune that it had an aftermarket turbo and the other mods done and I’m wondering if he didn’t listen and tuned for a stock turbo. Another thing is I called one shop first and they wanted to do logs with the car and when I had called this shop as a co worker told me great things about him and he said there is no logging that needs to be done..

Going to try and get out under the car tonight and check the actuator again to rule it out. I’d love to hear anyones opinions or previous experiences with this and with tuning as I don’t know enough about tuning that could cause the boost creep. I just don’t want to point fingers at the shop but it’s narrowing down to the tune it seems like.

 

[PakProtector]

Boost creep in the usual sense is overboost with the vanes open. Usually takes both RPM and fuel. Not sure the stock BEW injectors would be able to overboost a VNT17 unless you go well over decent fuel duration. So...with the BEW, can you examine actual vane position with VCDS?
cheers,
Douglas

 

[pedroYUL]

Vane position is measuring block 043.2 for the BEW. That is the actual reading from the smart actuator

 

[burpod]

A TDI should ALWAYS be logged after tuning it seems some tuners don't feel this way which is a shame. I don't see how anyone in good conscience can just load a boxed tune and send you one your way without any logging to see if things are in fact running properly.. Take some 011 boost logs and post in my boost log thread its always possible your n75 is a little flaky/sticky. There's no real way to test it other than trying a new one. They are very finicky and need to be working precisely.

 

[whatnxt]

Take a log and contact Malone Tuning directly on their site. As said, these are not just tune and go. I had the boost creep issue on my PD and it took six different tunes to address the issue. In the end, boost was limited to 18 psi below 2000 rpm and then 22 above that. With the original ”box” tune, it would get 23 psi from idle and creep to 28. Mark was great at addressing the issue.

 

[Ryder1032]

Hey everyone, can’t thank you all enough for the help and replies, had a ridiculously busy week for work and had no time at all to do absolutely anything. Down to a hopefully regular week now.

Finally had a day off Sunday and measured with vagcom and had no signal from the actuator, jacked the car up quickly and noticed the clip that hooks the plug onto the actuator was damaged and wasn’t fully holding on and I could slide it on and off by hand. Picking up a new plug from vw tonight and I’m going swap it for the broken one and try measuring again. It didn’t seem right at all to me when he said there was no logs needed for the tune. He took it down the street once and drove back to the shop and dropped off the keys to the receptionist and didn’t say a word to me. Wasn’t too happy with the service but oh well. If I get the plug switched out tonight I’ll check the vane position and if I’ve got time take it for a few logs up some backroads and go from there. Hoping I don’t have to deal with the shop again but I guess we’ll find out.

Thanks again to everyone who commented and gave their opinion.

 

[burpod]

A 20cent 1/4 standard circlip from the hardware will also fit.a touch loose but I have yet to have one fall off

 

[Ryder1032]

So, replaced the clip and checked along all the wiring last night, everything was good, clip popped in exactly how it should’ve. Still getting the same problem and a stored and pending p2564 code. Cleared the code, shut the car and started it back up and the same issue. Cleared the code with the car on and rescanned and still have a stored code but no CEL until I’d shut the car off and start it again. I’m going to test the actuator ohm reading on my lunch break and see what it reads. Does anyone have or know what the correct readings should be? Any advice of anything to look into would be great. Thanks for all the help.

Edit: Actuator is a kerma smart actuator I put on about 25k ago and only had for maybe around a year now. Has anyone had issues with these actuators?

 

[wonneber]

Did you check here for possible cure:

Ross-Tech: News

 

[Ryder1032]

Hey everyone, taken so long but I finally had the issue resolved by a mechanic a bit ago. Gave in as I just couldn’t figure it out and didn’t have the time to work on the car with my horrible work schedule.

Turns out the main problem is that somehow when I had set the turbo, I had it opening and closing at 4-18hgs, but for whatever reason and unsure how, the actuator was adjusted all the way so the turbo was fully open at full boost at all times hence why it would just shoot to 35psi and the boost level would follow with the acceleration. I really never adjusted it or played around with it since I bought it from Kerma, I had only bench tested when I originally bought it and again when I had rebuilt the engine after the runaway. The mechanic pulled it off, realized, set it properly and installed it again and then it finally operated as it should. I also found out that my tandem pump was not producing any vacuum. The mechanic put a mityvac on the nipple from the brake booster and it made maybe 2-3hgs. He went over to another 04 BEW golf he had in his lot, started it up and put the mityvac on and it was an instant 35hgs and didn’t fluctuate nearly as much as mine. Replaced that as well and noticed that it has been broken since I’ve owned the car. It always made a “squish” sound when turning the key and letting the glow plugs warm, and as soon as it was replaced it went away and also read in another users post about a bad tandem pump that he had noticed the same thing. I wonder if that had any issue with the turbo problems I’ve had since I’ve got the car.

Thanks to everyone in the forum that helped out with the issue, took so much longer than I expected but just wanted to post to close the post up that the issue is resolved.