02J rebuild saga

Brett San Diego

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02 Jetta wagon manual
The sludge left at the bottom of the parts washer from the inside of this transmission. It was a salvage yard pick with 360,000 miles.

I'm very interested to see what the inside of the transmission on my 02 Jetta with 420,000 miles looks like in comparison.

Everything is cleaned, oiled, and ready to go back together. I'm just waiting on shims that I ordered for the input and output shafts and differential.

Brett
 

Brett San Diego

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02 Jetta wagon manual
Output shaft shimming

I have finally been able to complete this task. One begins by measuring shaft play and then calculating the required shim from this measurement. The factory also specifies turning torque values for the output shaft for the 02A transmission. These are in the B4 Passat Bentley manual (11-22 in-lbs for new bearings, 3-5 in-lbs for used bearings). I've read posts online stating that those turning torque values are not supplied in factory information on the 02J but that it's reasonable to apply them to the 02J.

I successfully used the flexible dial indicator mount from Harbor Freight to measure the output shaft play. I didn't take a picture of the dial setup, but I did take pics of the input shaft and differential measurements shown in a post above.

Measuring my output shaft's play gave a result calling for a 0.95 mm shim, which happened to be the same size of shim that was originally installed in this transmission. I put the original shim back in and checked turning torque. I observed a value around 5 in-lbs or less. Since I was seeing a turning torque value in the range for a used bearing with the 0.95 mm shim, my thinking was to shim it up until I observed the turning torque value start to ramp up and get closer to the new bearing range. So, I ordered the next two thicknesses up, 1.00 and 1.05 mm. Unfortunately, the 1.05 mm shim took 6 weeks to arrive from an order with vwpartsvortex.com. Yesterday, I had a chance to install it.

The 1.00 mm shim gave a turning torque similar to the 0.95 mm shim, around 5 in-lbs or a little less. With the 1.05 mm shim, I saw an increase to around 8-9 in-lbs, and I think I'm going to call that good. I'd really like to know what a 1.10 mm shim does, but I'm not going to go there. At $15 per shim, the experiment starts to get expensive when 3 shafts need to be shimmed.

Now, I'm waiting for the input shaft and differential shims, which I ordered more recently. I hope they don't take 6 weeks.
 
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Brett San Diego

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Finished pulling the 02J on my daily driver 02 wagon (420,000 miles) today in preparation for swapping in the rebuilt 02J. There is one thing I want to mention.

The Mk IV Bentley manual states to remove the subframe and exhaust as needed (It's covering for several models and engines including the V6). I certainly didn't need to pull any exhaust pipes with a 4-cylinder, and I wasn't expecting to need to remove the subrame. But... I ended up removing the subframe.

The Bentley manual showed a picture of the installation of a factory tool that mounted in the dogbone mount of the subframe and then had a threaded rod reaching to the engine. It wasn't clear to me what this was for until I started to pull the transmission away from the engine. If you just have the engine and transmission assembly hanging from the engine support bar, when you go to pull the transmission away from the engine, the differential housing on the transmission hits the subframe, and you don't have enough room to pull the transmission free from the engine. That tool with the giant threaded rod is for the purpose of swinging the bottom end of the whole engine/transmission assembly forward as it hangs from the engine support bar to help give clearance from the subframe to be able to pull the transmission away from the engine. You can try to replicate that tool. I tried with a bottle jack, and I got the engine swung forward, but then the transmission started to hang on the air conditioning hard lines up front, which I certainly didn't want to damage as I was yanking the transmission around, so I decided to punt and remove the subframe and be done with it. I'm working with the car on jack stands and the transmission on a Harbor Freight transmission jack.

Here's the Bentley manual pic of the jack screw tool.

It's really not that hard to remove the subframe, just takes some time. It's 16 bolts. 6 bolts holding the ball joints to the control arms (3 per side), 2 bolts holding an exhaust hangar to the subframe, 4 bolts holding the steering rack to the subframe, 2 bolts for disconnecting the sway bar links, and the 4 subframe bolts. Once the subframe is out, it's a nice opportunity to clean it up because it's probably coated in grime. I took it to the back yard and powerwashed it.

It is a little extra work, but I think this is the easier, less frustrating method. You can battle with jacking the transmission at all different angles to maneuver it out, or just remove the subframe. I should mention if you remove the subframe, you probably should get an alignment after getting things back together, but you can do your best to mark the location of the ball joint bolts with some paint, and you'll probably be OK Or, do what I did, if you're going to keep your TDI for a long time, and get a lifetime alignment from PepBoys. Pays for itself after 2 alignments.

4 weeks and still waiting for VWpartsvortex.com (or Burlington Volkswagen) to ship the shims I ordered for the input shaft and differential. The output shaft shims took 6 weeks. I called them last week, and the tech said the last shim should be arriving in the next day or two. Still no shipping notice, yet. If I called around, maybe I could have found someone with shims in stock, but I did not. I just decided to deal with waiting. Besides, I needed time to pull the transmission from my car.

Brett
 
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Brett San Diego

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Input shaft and differential shims.

I ordered 2 sizes of shims for each, just like I did with the output shaft (one of the size according to my measurements and then the next size thicker). My reasoning is that my janky Harbor Freight flexible dial indicator holder may not be the best at holding the dial indicator steady while taking the measurements, so I reasoned that if anything, it may be under-reading the measurement due to flex of the arm that the dial indicator is mounted to. So, I'll test fit each shim and see what I see with regard to turning torque or shaft play specs from the Bentley B4 manual.

All the transmission parts are cleaned, oiled, and ready to go together.
 
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Brett San Diego

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Input shaft and differential shims continued.

Well, it was another 6 weeks for input shaft and differential shims to arrive. And, actually, one of the input shaft shims still hasn't arrived, but it's a moot point because I now know I don't need that one.

As mentioned in the last post, I ordered 2 shims for the input shaft and differential. One according to my measurements and the next thicker one. Well apparently, I guessed wrong on my measurement accuracy. The thinnest shim that I ordered for both the input shaft and the differential were too thick. I thought I would possibly underestimate the measurement with my techniques, but I guess I overestimated.

On the differential, the shim was so much too thick that the case halves were held apart from one another as I assembled the case to test the turning torque. My understanding from reading comments by others is that there is no documentation on turning torque for the differential for the 02J, but it seems reasonable to use the spec given for the 02A in the B4 Bentley manual, which is 11-29 in-lbs for new bearings. The bearings were clearly overly squished, and turning the differential was difficult. I measured well over 30 in-lbs. No bueno.

On the input shaft, I think I was closer. The shaft is supposed to spin freely, and there should be 0.01-0.09 mm of play. I thought the shaft spun fairly freely, but there was zero play.

Here's the Harbor Freight flexible dial indicator mount in use on the input shaft.


So, I've got to order thinner shims and try again. I'm going to call around a bit and see if I can do better than 6 weeks. I've been ordering from vwpartsvortex (Burlington VW, New Jersey), and they haven't had the shims in stock.

It hasn't all been down time. I got the old transmission out of the 02 wagon and the new flywheel and clutch kit installed. I had a new rear main seal assembly ready to go in, and I decided I didn't need it. There was some grime around the seal, but it wasn't bad. And it wasn't dripping oil, so I left it. I bought the wagon with 220,000 miles. 420,000 now. I don't know if this seal is original or not, but it has at least 200k on it.

Brett
 
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JordanTr

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Did your literature give you ballpark numbers for approximate preload to achieve the desired rotating torques or were you left with a bit of guessing?
Fantastic work on the write up. Sure gives you more appreciation for how it all works!
 

Brett San Diego

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02 Jetta wagon manual
Did your literature give you ballpark numbers for approximate preload to achieve the desired rotating torques or were you left with a bit of guessing?
Fantastic work on the write up. Sure gives you more appreciation for how it all works!
There are preload constants for the output shaft and differential which you add to your play measurements.

For the differential, you measure with no shim and add 0.4 mm preload constant. For the output shaft, you measure with a 0.65 mm test shim installed and then add your measurement + the 0.65 mm test shim + 0.2 mm preload constant to get your final shim measurement.

For the input shaft, you measure with no shim, then use a table to choose the proper shim. Since there's supposed to be ever the slightest amount of play in the shaft, the shim table calls for a shim slightly thinner than your measurement.

I'm inexperienced with using a dial indicator, and I don't have factory tools. You can see how questionable the flexible Harbor Freight indicator mount is. The dial indicator I bought wasn't the cheapest nor the most expensive. I purposely chose something in the middle of the price range that I saw on Amazon. So, I'm chalking the misses up to inexperience and poor equipment.

Brett
 

JordanTr

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Hi Brett,

Good confirmation as I had squirrelled away the 0.2 and 0.4mm preloads just in case I get into my transmission at some point.

It'll be a great feeling to get a rebuilt transmission in there!
 

Brett San Diego

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02 Jetta wagon manual
Hi Brett,

Good confirmation as I had squirrelled away the 0.2 and 0.4mm preloads just in case I get into my transmission at some point.

It'll be a great feeling to get a rebuilt transmission in there!
Yeah, I'd be done by now if not for shim supply. I have seen what looks like shim kits online from aftermarket sellers that have a selection of shims for pretty cheap, but I thought it best to stick with the dealer to ensure the shim would be good metal quality and meet precision specs.

The bearing shimming procedures are in all the various documentation sources that I mentioned. They're not hidden or hard to find.

Brett
 

Brett San Diego

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02 Jetta wagon manual
Input shaft and differential shims one last time.

In the last installment, my input shaft seemed to spin fairly freely, but there was zero play. The factory specs call for a tiny bit of play in the shaft (0.01 - 0.09 mm). After putting in the next thinnest shim, there was perceptible play, and I measured 0.02-0.06 mm over several measurements. Seems good.

For the differential, the factory rotational torque spec for the 02A transmission (from the B4 Passat manual) is 11-29 in-lbs for new bearings. I measured over 30 with the first shim. So I ordered the next two thinner shims. The differential shims are in 0.05 mm increments. Dropping down one shim, I measured around 20-28. Going down one more, I measured around 15-22 or so, so I called that good and went with that one. I'm using a small beam style torque wrench, and there's a lot of variability as you turn the differential. It's impossible to keep a constant speed of rotation. So, it's a bit of a guessing game.

Ready for reassembly, finally.
 
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Brett San Diego

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Barely anything to mention on initial reassembly. Follow the Lewis videos, the manuals, etc. I found it pretty straightforward. The shifter linkage tends to fall out of place if you have the transmission case sitting level, so I found it helpful to prop one end up on a couple of 2x4's when mating the case halves. Also, I almost forgot to put the magnet back in the case. I had totally forgotten about it, but before sealing the case up, I decided to sift through my bags of parts just to be sure I wasn't forgetting something, and sure enough there was the magnet. Whew.


For case sealant, I went on the Permatex web site and did their online application guide questionnaire. It recommended the Ultra Grey (as expected) along with the green label "Gear Oil gasket maker" (# 81182). I went with the green label sealant for no particular reason. Turns out, it's also grey in color.

I was cruising along expecting to finish this weekend, but I have decided to replace the shifter shaft lower cover, so I'm going to have to wait for parts again. There's a clip in the lower cover that helps to locate the lower end of the shifter shaft. That clip had quite a bit of wear on it. It doesn't look like the clip is available separately from the cover, so I ordered a whole new lower cover.

Here's what I'm talking about.
(edit: I may have the clip on upside down in this pic. I can't recall if I removed it previously, but looking at some parts diagrams, it seems the loop end is oriented downward toward the cover side. I don't know if it matters. It may not, but I'll comment when the new one arrives.)


So, back in another week or so.
 
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Brett San Diego

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02 Jetta wagon manual
I've completed splitting the case and disassembling transmission #2 while I wait for the lower shifter shaft cover for #1. Getting that part has been a lesson on why online ordering sucks, but I'll wait to share the whole story until I finally get the right part.

I just wanted to come back to the clip orientation in that lower cover from the last post. Pictured below is the original lower cover that came out of #2. The clip is indeed oriented in the opposite direction from my previous post. So, I must've removed it while cleaning the parts and stuck it back on willy nilly. My bad.


I also paid attention to the orientation of the cover as I removed it. It is installed with the loop part of the clip toward the center of the transmission and the open end of the clip toward the wall of the case. The VW in the cover was in this orientation below, although that probably isn't critical as the part looks symmetrical without the clip on it.


Brett
 
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Brett San Diego

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A couple of details that I didn't mention earlier.

5th gear slider spring orientation. The newer version of the spring clips for the 5th gear slider are not symmetrical like the older version. They have a 3-dimensional bend profile to them, and so their installation now has a right and wrong orientation. This little tidbit below from an online workshop manual website that I just learned about confirmed the proper orientation of these springs. (I'll add the link to the website to the intro post in this thread.)


I took the 5th gear cover back off the first transmission to be sure I had it right, and I did. I had tried the slider with the springs in both orientations, and one way seemed better than the other, and I found some poor quality pics which seemed to agree with the orientation I decided on, but I still wasn't 100%. The online manual info is clear, so I'm happy to know it's right. Here's a pic of the spring installed properly in the 5th gear hub.


Case peening that retains the output shaft rear needle bearing. The large needle bearing that supports the rear of the output shaft is pressed into the case, but it also has three peen marks around it to ensure the bearing is retained in the case. The Bentley manual says to redo the peens when installing a new bearing. But, there's no mention that you may need to remove the old peens in order to install the new bearing. That's what I had to do. The pic below shows the peen marks remaining after the bearing was pressed out of my second transmission. I did not do anything to remove the peening before pressing the bearing out. You might think that the old bearing will just push the metal out of the way as you press it out, but it didn't. You can see the metal still intrudes into the cylinder of the bearing seat. On the first transmission, the new bearing would not press in all the way, so I had to grind away the old peen marks to make clearance. Once again the Dremel tool with a small grinding stone or cutoff wheel came in very handy for this task. It's literally just a few hundredths of a millimeter of aluminum that's in the way, but it was enough to block the bearing from going all the way in.

 
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Brett San Diego

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I finally got the last part I needed to complete the rebuild of the first transmission (or so I thought), the lower gear selector shaft cover part with a new clip.

Zelek.com had the wrong part number, and I ordered with that number from vwpartsvortex.com blindly (twice) and ended up with the wrong part (twice). There were no pics on the web site. I knew vwpartsvortex.com would be cheaper than the local dealer, so I took a chance and got burned. So, I sucked it up and went to my local dealer, and they had pics of the part to confirm it was the correct cover with the clip.

Zelek.com says the cover with the clip is # 0A4-301-256 and without the clip is # 02J-301-256. That's not correct. vwpartsvortex.com had listed 2 parts under 0A4-301-256, the parent number and another with a C suffix. Long story short... I ordered both and both were the same wrong cover part. I now know the 0A4 is a later generation manual transmission with a different cover. So, I went to my dealer, who said the cover with the clip is in fact 02J-301-256 and had a picture to prove it. The parts counter guy actually said there were 2 parts for the cover shown in the parts diagram, the one like mine with the clip and another with no picture. I didn't think to ask if the other was a different part number. Anyway, many weeks later, I have the cover part.

And, I thought I was done... but not so fast.

I was perusing the Cascade German rebuild kits online for some reason, and I noticed that the kit price was quite a bit more than when I bought it a few months ago. OK, inflation, I thought. Then I looked at the parts list, and it had both inner and outer synchro rings listed for 1st and 2nd gear. My kit didn't come with the inner rings. I happened to print out the parts list from my purchase, and sure enough, the inner rings are not listed. I don't know why they were not included with the kit at the time. I did notice that I didn't have the inner rings when I was reassembling the output shaft, but I measured the gaps, and according to the specs for the Bentley manual for the 02A, the synchro wear was within spec. So, I thought I'm good. Still, I'm a dumbass for putting the old inner rings back in because these are the ones that get the most use, and you simply should replace them. I contacted Cascade German about the part number, just to be sure, since I found the inner rings at lower cost on jimellisvwparts.com (another dealer parts counter). Cascade German returned a very helpful reply stating that VW doesn't recommend mixing the old and new version synchronizer rings because of the different friction surfaces. The old synchros have concentric rings machined into the brass surface. The new version has some kind of black rough coating on the surface of the brass.

So, this weekend, I'm tearing down the transmission again to replace those inner synchro rings on the 1st and 2nd gear. My 3rd teardown. And yes, it's a charm, and it's going really quickly now that I'm a pro at this.

Brett
 
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Keystoner16

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Great thread.

I am currently rebuilding an 02J myself.
Wondering if it would be uncool to post a few of my own notes on here?
 

Brett San Diego

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Great thread.

I am currently rebuilding an 02J myself.
Wondering if it would be uncool to post a few of my own notes on here?
No, go ahead. I don't pretend to always have the best methods. I was posting what I did, but there's usually more than one way to go about things.

Brett
 

Brett San Diego

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Well, my 1st rebuild is done (for the second time). One note here.

I made the mistake of installing the shift tower before the new lower shifter cover. Don't do that. Recall on disassembly from the Lewis videos, the shift tower is removed first followed by the lower cover. Put it back together in reverse order to make your life easier. I was able to wiggle and jiggle the lower cover in place after I had installed the upper tower and selector, but it's a pain in the butt.

At first, I was just trying to see if I could get the lower cover in, and I got it in thankfully. I didn't want to have to remove the shift tower again because I had just bolted it down with sealant. It would have been a big pain to pull it out and clean all the sealant off. But, then once I had the lower cover test fitted, I couldn't remove it to apply sealant on it. The clip was hanging up on the case. Fortunately, I was able to pull it out just far enough to have room to apply sealant around the cover and then push it in and bolt it down.

The moral of the story is work slowly and pay attention to whatever reference material you're using. Going back to the Lewis disassembly videos and watching it backwards would have saved me some trouble on this one.

Brett
 

Brett San Diego

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I'm declaring victory on transmission #1. Finished the installation yesterday, and the test drive was perfect. No leaks this morning. (Crossing my fingers)

One last item. A link to a youtube video from dieselgeek on adjusting the shifter cables.


Brett
 

Brett San Diego

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1000 miles in, and did a gear oil change last weekend. All is very well. No visible leaks. Forgot to check torque on the CV joint bolts. Need to do that this weekend.

Brett
 

Brett San Diego

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A follow up to document my adventures trying to remove the spider gear shaft roll pin from the differential carrier on my second transmission.

I had noted in my original post on removing this roll pin to replace the spider gear thrust washer (post #24) that this was the most challenging part of the rebuild. And, on transmission #2, that statement is still very, very true. On this transmission, the spider gear thrust washer was actually still completely intact, but it still had 420,000 miles on it, and I had already bought a new thrust washer and roll pin, so I dug in to replace it.

If you go to Matt-98AHU's video series on the hybrid 6-speed build (linked in post #1, dzelpwr on youtube), you'll find a short video he did on removing the roll pin using an air hammer. I tried that, and it didn't work for me. Once again, I sheared the end of the pin off without budging it. Now, it's very possible my technique was poor, so I'm not saying this isn't a viable method. Just didn't work the way I tried it.

So, I set out to drill and tap the pin as I had done with the first one, and things went sideways. I drilled it out with no issues with the 1/8 and 9/64 bits. On the 5/32 bit (3.97 mm), I only want to drill about half way through so the M4 tap has enough metal to bite into on the lower half of the pin. So, I drilled a bit with the 5/32 and got to work with the M4 tap. Once I hit the thicker section of the pin, the pin actually broke loose and started to turn. I had no way to hold the pin while tapping it, so I couldn't tap it all the way through. This obviously didn't happen with the first differential. So, I screwed the long M4 bolt into what had been tapped of the pin, and tried the slide hammer, but the bolt just yanked out of the pin without moving it at all. The upper half is drilled to 3.97 mm, and the M4 bolt is, of course, nominally 4 mm, so there's not enough thread to grip.

At that point, my not so bright idea was to use the tap as a pulling tool. I was hoping that the tip of the tap would get just enough bite on the thicker section of the pin to allow removal. So, I screwed the tap all the way down and decided to put a vice grip on the tap to give me something to pull on it with. I then started to use a regular hammer on the vice grip to knock the pin up and out. But, about 3 or 4 hits in, the tap snapped off inside the pin. Oops. Forgot that hardened steel is brittle.

Here's a shot of the broken off tap.

I thought I was dead in the water. I had a bolt extractor set that went down to small enough for an M4 bolt, but this was a hardened steel tap, and sure enough, the drill bit did nothing. If I pressed harder, I would just snap the bit. I had to walk away for a few hours, and let my blood pressure settle. I thought I'd be out the cost of a differential. Even used, it wouldn't be cheap. And, if I bought just a diff carrier, I'd have to go through the trouble of drilling out the rivets and transferring the ring gear. I came back, and a fresh thought came to mind. If I ground down a Dremel cut-off wheel, it would be small enough to work in the notch in the diff carrier without doing too much damage to the diff carrier, and maybe I could cut a slot in the tap and back it out with a screwdriver. And, it worked. At first, it didn't. The pin started to turn with the tap, but after almost a full revolution, the pin caught and the tap backed out. Whew, disaster averted. I was seriously thinking about just leaving it in and not changing the thrust washer. It was in OK shape by visual inspection. I figured with the solid tap lodged in there, the pin probably wouldn't go anywhere.

Here's the slotted tap with the screwdriver as I was removing it.

Now, I was back to the drawing board. I thought I wouldn't be able to drill it any more, thinking it would just start spinning again, but I tried it, and fortunately, I was wrong. Like with the tap, the pin would catch intermittently and allow it to be drilled out further with the 5/32 bit. So, I drilled deeper with the 5/32 to further weaken the pin. I then dug around my screw bin and found a long sheet metal screw that happened to be the perfect tight fit. I tried screwing that in with a couple of washers on it for the slide hammer to grab onto. Again, I thought the pin would just spin, but it didn't, and I was able to get the screw in pretty deep such that I figured I had a fighting chance of pulling it out... and success. It worked.

Here's the pin partially pulled, and a couple shots of the screw and pin removed.



One more useful note. I wrote earlier about some of the drill bits not lasting long working on the hardened steel of the pin. I found I could rig up my Dremel with a cut-off wheel as a drill sharpener for these small bits. I put it in the vice at an angle that was comfortable to rest my hand on the vice and hold the bit at roughly the proper angle to renew the cutting edge. It worked well to keep my 5/32 bit going. Obviously, I'm probably not getting the exact 118 degree angle that is optimum (I think that's the angle), but it was good enough.


So, once again, this part of the job ended up being a pain in the ass. My advice... avoid it and put in a limited slip differential. LOL.

Brett
 
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PANIAWO

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Late to my own party. Oh well. I used to be a member on tdiclub til I went nuclear and deleted my entire profile a few years ago. The 02C I built in that video is over 100k miles and still cruising after much hooning and terrible behavior. Car is on a 30psi tune with AWD. I will be building a couple more transmissions soon so I'll make better videos this round. Likely will be summer 2024. One will be 02S with 02A clutch housing for a VR B3, the other will be 02C VR bellhousing for the Corrado. The big takeaway from my poor video efforts in 2018 is FOLLOW THE BENTLEY as so graciously illustrated by Mr. San Diego.

Andrew

Vortex thread for context of those videos. I'm active over there on a variety of projects.
 
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Brett San Diego

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Late to my own party. Oh well. I used to be a member on tdiclub til I went nuclear and deleted my entire profile a few years ago. The 02C I built in that video is over 100k miles and still cruising after much hooning and terrible behavior. Car is on a 30psi tune with AWD. I will be building a couple more transmissions soon so I'll make better videos this round. Likely will be summer 2024. One will be 02S with 02A clutch housing for a VR B3, the other will be 02C VR bellhousing for the Corrado. The big takeaway from my poor video efforts in 2018 is FOLLOW THE BENTLEY as so graciously illustrated by Mr. San Diego.

Andrew

Vortex thread for context of those videos. I'm active over there on a variety of projects.
Welcome back. Your videos convinced me I was up to the task of the rebuild. Thanks for that.

Brett
 
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