01m

[Geordi]

Excellent product, reasonable price. Good move.

If only solving an 01m's issues were that easy...

They are. Don't let it overheat and keep the fluid fresh... And at the first signs of surging at 50mph+, get the (admittedly weak) valve body reworked and upgraded.

Mine is back in service with the new valve body, and it might actually be grabbing a touch TOO strongly, but I'm OK with that. Strong pressure means no slip, which means less wear.

This "bad design" 01m is now up to 274k miles. Not too shabby for any transmission.

 

[davebugs]

They are. Don't let it overheat and keep the fluid fresh... And at the first signs of surging at 50mph+, get the (admittedly weak) valve body reworked and upgraded.

Mine is back in service with the new valve body, and it might actually be grabbing a touch TOO strongly, but I'm OK with that. Strong pressure means no slip, which means less wear.

This "bad design" 01m is now up to 274k miles. Not too shabby for any transmission.

Hasn't worked for me yet!

Serviced (both sides) with proper fluids, not abused, checked fluid level rather frequently.


Never had the surging issue. I've had 2 with diff failure and a thirs I bought off a member with diff failure. I dream of something as simple as a VB. I did have Kansascitytdi rebuild one for the last transmission which seems to be doing fine.

 

[oilhammer]

This "bad design" 01m is now up to 274k miles. Not too shabby for any transmission.

Yeah, it's a real winner... that's why we keep getting threads like this:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=387433

...and at any one given time I usually have one or two dead behind the shop brought in on a hook.

 

[TDIJetta99]

I think for every customer of mine that has over 200k on a factory 01M I have 10-15 that have had theirs fail before 150k..

Some of them last just fine.. Others not so much..

 

[msoultan]

The shop diagnosed G68 as being bad so I need to change that out, but they also said I should change G38 while I'm at it. It looks like it's relatively accessible, even with out removing the transmission mount, so what do you think? Should I change it anyways?

Also, should I buy genuine VW sensors or does anyone have a recommendation on a sensor brand they'd recommend?

Sorry to repost, but could someone comment on the above?

Thanks!!
Mike

 

[CoolAirVw]

why change something that isn't bad and is easy to change when it does fail? Any sensor you can get is ok. Aftermarket sensors are not much less than dealer sensors.

Dealer sensor is local and accessible if you can find a parts guy who can find it! Other sensors would almost always have to be mail ordered.

 

[msoultan]

why change something that isn't bad and is easy to change when it does fail? Any sensor you can get is ok. Aftermarket sensors are not much less than dealer sensors.

Ok.. not a prob - the guy at the shop recommended I change it while I had stuff moved out of the way (there's about 120k miles on the car). And he was recommending that *I* change it - they were nice enough to tell me exactly what was wrong so I could fix it on my own, so I think he was genuinely trying to help.

Dealer sensor is local and accessible if you can find a parts guy who can find it! Other sensors would almost always have to be mail ordered.

It seems like ECSTuning has G68 for $68 and they only stock the VW part - I'll take a look at what the dealer pricing is. Ordering isn't a big deal because I don't even have the car here right now.

Pricing on G38 varies from $26 to $121 for the VW part, so I guess I'll hold off on that one.

 

[msoultan]

I'm sorry for the 20 questions, but I'm getting varied answers on what bolts I need when I remove the transmission mount and I'm going kinda nutty. I'm trying to get all the parts for this project so that when I go back to San Francisco (I'm near Sacramento now), I'll have all the parts I need to successfully complete the project. Here's where I'm at now:

I purchased VCDS HEX+CAN-USB per everyone's suggestion and I'm looking forward to finally be able to diagnose what the heck's going on with my car. My mom has a new TDI Jetta so I figured I'd get the CAN version in case she needed me to diagnose any issues with her car.

I was planning on purchasing the following:

VSS (G68):
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES267784/

Transmission bolts:
http://www.urotuning.com/Motor-Mount-Stretch-Bolts-Left-Right-Mk4-p/stretch_mk4_mounts.htm

I checked with urotuning and they said the bolts are the same for both the engine and the transmission mounts - is that true? Do I only need 4 because ECStuning is telling me I need more.

Am I going to need anything else to finish this repair. I just want to make sure I have everything I'm gonna need to perform this job and drive the car back instead of driving my VW bus (driving up 7000ft mountains is far from ideal ).

Thanks!
Mike

 

[CoolAirVw]

you only need two bolts.

 

[msoultan]

Cool - I also called the dealer and it seems like they're able to get them in stock easily. I was trying to be prepared because before I've been stuck when the dealer doesn't have a part (like the stupid plastic clips in the doors).

Also in calling around, it seems like lots of people don't realize that those bolts are one-time use only bolts, mechanics included!

Thanks for your help!!

 

[msoultan]

So I'm here at the car now and looking at the transmission mount - it looks like there are 6 bolts - two that hold the mount to the frame, two that hold the mount to itself (look like alignment bolts), and two that hold the mount to the tranny. I'm assuming that the bolts I need to remove are the two that hold the mount to the tranny and then I'd lower the tranny enough to lift the sensor out?

 

[TDIJetta99]

The mount bolts to a bracket on top of the transmission.. The bracket needs to come off to access the sensor..

Support the transmission and remove the 2 large bolts that hold the mount to the bracket, then lower the transmission about 1/2".. Now take off the nut that holds the power steering line to the bracket, and remove the 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the transmission case.. This will let you slide the bracket out and access the sensor..

 

[msoultan]

Thanks! So those bolts that hold the bracket to the transmission - I take it they're not the one-time use bolts, correct? Only the ones that hold the mount to the chassis and the mount to the bracket are one-time use only? I just want to make sure I don't re-use the wrong bolts.

Thanks!
Mike

 

[TDIJetta99]

Correct.. You don't need to remove the mount from the chassis since you can weasel the bracket out from under it..

The bracket bolts use a 16mm head and are not single use..

 

[msoultan]

Awesome! I'm putting everything back together now. I've also pulled all the accessible connectors and sprayed them all with deoxit progold to help clean and lubricate them. Thanks to everyone for your help - it made this repair go really smoothly.

Thanks!

 

[Bonne Vie]

01M Transmission issues

Hey guys,
I just have a few questions. I have a 2002 VW Jetta TDI with 204,XXX on it. Love the car! But the transmission is weak. I took it to a tranny shop and the said that the tranny was running about 34PSI as apposed to the 90 PSI it's supposed to be running at. I don't have all the tools to diagnose it but I do to fix it. The mechanic said that the tranny doesn't need to be replaced but some parts need to be fixed. There really aren't that many parts on a transmission to replace. Any suggestions? I would really rather do it myself. I did have a check engine light come up that was a torque converter, but that can be anything. As far as I know the car has never had any transmission work..
Any help will be good help.

 

[CoolAirVw]

But the transmission is weak.

do you have a more specific symptom other than weak?

I took it to a tranny shop and the said that the tranny was running about 34PSI as apposed to the 90 PSI it's supposed to be running at.

The trans is supposed to run at 49-55 psi at idle in drive. So if your guy was testing it at idle in drive, your not that low, and inconsistencies in the gauge could explain the low reading. But If he's testing it in reverse then it should read about 90 psi. So I guess the question is.... what gear is he testing and does he have a good gauge or is it a made in china harbor freight special??? Do you have "delayed engagement" where the trans waits several seconds after you move the shifter lever, before it "bumps" into gear? If so you might have pressure loss making your pressure low.

The mechanic said that the tranny doesn't need to be replaced but some parts need to be fixed. There really aren't that many parts on a transmission to replace.

How rare that a mechanic says it can be fixed and doesn't say it needs to be replaced. There's lots of parts. But there isn't many parts that can be replaced easily without major disassembly. There's basically Valve body, solenoids and a couple sensors.

I did have a check engine light come up that was a torque converter, but that can be anything.

When you scan a car for a trouble code you should write down the number and the definition so you don't end up with vague info like "I did have a check engine light that come up a torque converter".

The common code that people get relating to the torque converter is P0740 or Vag code 01192 indicating that the computer "sees" a torque converter slip. Usually the solution for that code is rebuilding the VB. Rarely would a torque converter be needed to fix these codes on a 01m.

read 01m part three (linked to in first post above) for more info.

I think your main decision here is do you want to dump significant money into that trans with 200,000 plus miles. Especially if there is question as to whether or not the repair will fix the issue.

Now I did my VB at 217,000 and the car is still going on its original trans, currently at 244,000.

 

[Bonne Vie]

Well I guess the weak that I am describing is the "bump" that you are describing! LOL Although the other weekend I went down to Atlanta. And when I was getting on the on ramp my car ran all the way up too 5000 rpms before shifting into 4th gear. But definitely when I get into my car in the morning and put it into reverse and in drive there is a definite delay then a bump that happens. I was lucky enough with this mechanic since he is the only one in town that is willing to look at a vw diesel tranny..... (yea.. I know) He didn't want to replace it. YAY! If I do have to replace the darn thing at one point then I most certainly will give up the car but for right now I love the car and would like to "gimp" it along for as long as I can! I did have the code my the mechanic kept the paper!!! >:| Thank you for the help though!! I am going to try and fix it this weekend. (fingers crossed)



On a separate note. The damn car is having thermostat/ coolant issues!!! I have replaced the thermostat twice in the past 5 months. On the last replacement I replaced the coolant sensor and now its coming up the darn P0128 code again!!!

 

[CoolAirVw]

If you have delayed engagement I doubt valve body work or other minor repairs will fix it. I usually tell folks to live with this as long as you can. When it gets to the point where you have to give it some gas to make it "bump" into gear then you need to plan on replacing it. Of course make sure the fluid is full.

 

[kitko100]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but it seems like I've got very similar issues to what's going on (except maybe the disintegrated sensor). I washed my engine bay as I live up in the mountains and it's extremely dusty up here (on a dirt road, too). I figured the plugs are waterproof, right? Well, after I did that, I ran the engine to let it heat up and dry things out and when I went to drive it, it wouldn't shift into 4th and apparently it was stuck in limp mode. I brought it to the the shop and had them read the codes and $400 later they reset the entire computer (reloaded the software) and I was off thinking things were ok.

Well, a couple days later, it did it again! So I went back and luckily the intermittent problem was no longer intermittent and the problem sensor was the one underneath the tranny mount (g68 I think).

I have two questions - the first one is would water really mess up the sensor?! It just seems kinda odd - I mean, is there even power going to the sensor? I'd figure it's a VR pickup and it's generating the very low voltage signal to the computer so I don't really get why it would get messed up. I'm thinking maybe water seeped into the sensor and damaged the internals or got into the plug and shorted things out there. I don't have the car nearby so unfortunately I don't have a way to look at the plugs, and when it was in front of me, I didn't even know what the problem was, hence my next question-

I am having the same problem with my 01 jetta. In the process of flushing the coolant i broke the upper water distribution block. That lil F up sprayed the tranny with water. After i got that all patched up and back together the tranny wont shift right. im getting 2 codes, 00281-003 vehicle speed sensor (G68), 00652-027 gear monitoring static- implausible signal. HELP!!!

 

[msoultan]

You could change the sensor - g68 is under the mount so it's a slight pain. Stop by the VW dealer and buy the replacement bolts because they're one-time use bolts. It wasn't a horribly difficult repair.

That said, I'd reset the codes to see if the fault code comes back. Chances are your tranny is running in limp mode.

 

[CoolAirVw]

If water has got in, then unplug spray it out, clear codes and try again. If the code keeps reoccuring then try the sensor. Or you can break out the oscilliscope for more in depth testing.

 

[xTDIx]

Excellent thread and info, picked up an ALH w Auto trans problems last week,
Vag-Com pulled the following errors. The vehicle runs outstanding, however the trans is in limp mode and will not shift out of third when in drive. Reverse, Park and Neutral all seem to work fine.

P1144- MAF
P0501-VSS

00264- Solenoid Valve 4 (open circuit)
00652- Gear Monitoring (Implausible Signal)

where to start lol

 

[CoolAirVw]

clear codes see what reoccurs.

only check trans codes if your concerned with trans

 

[xTDIx]

Cleared the codes, all the original trans codes popped up. Looks like I am replacing the solenoids. The guy I purchased it from did inform me that either himself or a shop replaced the transmission filter.

 

[CoolAirVw]

read this first..

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=334614

 

[xTDIx]

Thanks, will do.

 

[CarbonTwin]

Hey rich, have you ever seen the cooler on the trans leak together with the coolant and trans, mixing each other? wild to see its the reason my 01m dumped on me but thought id share.

 

[CoolAirVw]

Yes I have.

 

[CarbonTwin]

yea its what ate my day away, when I had found It cause funny to know that I just a week prior to this happening I had dropped the pan and put a new filter and fluid in it which wasn't cheap for a weeks worth lmao, then had some major slip going into work one morning and long behold guess what I have tranny fluid in my cooling system and coolant in my trans, so I concreted the trans and put in a 5 spd cause its my fuel saving work car and my cummins getting 14.5 mpg was eating me alive. lol.
My shop doesn't see very many vw's or the tdi's for that matter but I sure have learned a great deal thanks to the forum and its members response's, I also like your write-ups, you get very into detail.
...... just thought id share my experience with a failed trans to cooler issue cause I've yet to see one even with a gasser come in for relative issues.