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It's probably fuse 32 as Nickmix also found out. Weird things happen from time to time https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/no-start-after-tb-change.244550/page-6#post-2956027

Check the air filter and snow screen for heavy debris. Make sure the large vacuum hose between the N75 and air box isn't plugged or that any part of it has become weak and is collapsing. A collapsing actuator line will also cause over boost.

Thermostat is the first thing to try. I just replaced mine on my 2010 last weekend. I never saw >180 all winter on my PolarFIS. After new Tstat it hit 192 after 8 miles. Haven't driven it enough to get MPG numbers but they will be higher now. Unfortunately the thermostat is not easy to change.

What is the injection quantity reported in Measuring Block 001 at idle on a warm engine with the AC off?

https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/09a-bew-automatic-axle-info.483681/

Compression test.

I like to hit the bore in the block with a bit of sandpaper to dust off the rust. Wipe it clean after with a wet rag. I would usually give the o-ring a squirt of spray silicone lube to ensure that it doesn't roll when sliding in

By the way car is located in Austin TX. Just want to make sure that's clear.

Hi everyone. My friend Jen crashed her Jetta and is ready to move on. The good: Manual ALH wagon. The bad: crashed. It really doesn't look too bad to me. Hood, fender, lock carrier. Possibly a radiator. Didn't even break the headlights! No damage to rear. 390k miles. But it got a new motor...

Kuso I could swap it for you. I've done a bunch. There's also Jimbote just south of me a ways. He's done like 500 or some crazy number.

I just put aluminum tape on em. I could knock out a blend door job before 10am.

I'm betting the vacuum vent line is pinched in the air box or twisted up so the n75 can't let any air into the actuator diaphragm.

The camera we used was fine. Something with the quality went haywire when my brother in law did some editing to cut out all the non-action bits. Blame him.

I also remember having to get a special adapter welded up to be able even check the compression with my tester. Those glow plug holes are deep. Sand tends to accumulate down in those holes too so always blow them out really good before you pull the plugs.

The CJA lacks the spur gear used in the CBE/CR and it also fortunately lacks the BSM. I replaced the whole head with new OEM. You can probably find a good used head from a salvage yard. I just found this which seems like a pretty good deal assuming it's got new valves/guides etc.

I bought my current '10 Golf not running. Dealer had put a fuel system on it but still couldn't get it to run. I found that one of the cam gears on the driver end of the head had slipped and the cams were out of phase. You need to check compression. It may be very very low. In fact I was tipped...

Do you have VCDS? If not you should. www.ross-tech.com We need to see the timing and injection quantity values.

I've never done it either but try dropping it in some boiling hot water for a minute or two. You'll need some hot gloves to work it on.

When I was running the shop I always felt that one of the most valuable services I provided was parts curation. It was largely invisible to the customer but I could always make sure they got the best part, and the best value whether the realized it or not.

This is how I did this job the very first time on an 86 Jetta I used to have. I screwed it to a block of wood and changed the head seal while sitting on my back porch.