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Well finally showed up.. worked great!.. Just for future curiosity..

Bought the Gates 38018 pulley..will update when received, would be awesome if that works! ..also bought the complete tensioner assembly from autozone..may try just that pulley also..to save time from removing the whole darn thing..just some options...we'll see??

Well to sum this up.. I'm getting constant 12v+ (ignition on or off) to one pin 1 (of 3) on trunk lock connector, the other 2 are near 0v, when key fob trunk open button is pushed I am getting another 12v+ on pin 2, pin 3 is 0v still ..this defeats all possibility of shorts or opens in...

Yeeap.. This is a quandry!.. The only plug (with 2 pins) that has 12v on both. is the tag lights and ONLY when I turn ON the parking lights..Of course no "NEGATIVE trigger" signal to trunk lock from anywhere (switch on door or handle on trunk or key fob../and trunk light/tag light is dead,all...

Thanx for the heads up on the key fobs voiding out with a different BCM ( I did not know that)..Oh well..had to put in the original BCM..and of course same problem with trunk lock/ etc....But at least now key fobs work ..Nothing like making a fool of myself LOL..

Well back again.correction from my first post.. this is my wife's car sorry about that..( being 66 years old, I had a senior moment I guess? ). Got another bcm and the same problem still exists...Also noticed , hopefully this helps with diagnoses, both key fobs don't work DEAD...

Yeepp! Same smell with the rawtech smell, done 4 and it was there.. My wife complained about hers also..

Unless your obd11 tool ( I have a similar one to that) can do live data output test etc.. along with the SPECIFIC data VCDS provides I doubt your going to get the info you need..Maybe someone ( dealer/REAL vw mechanic) can do that for you it only takes several minutes to run it..I only use VCDS...

edmoy....My daughters car is a 2015 passat.. had no heat about a month ago..I was going to replace the Heater core for her but I told her to take it to the dealer first..... WELL! They replaced it FREE of charge.. a good will repair.. she had around 60,000 miles on it.. a month later still is...

Found this GREAT write -up with lots of info! here under "body control"LER""..The LER thu the search off for me!? Someone autta change the heading for future searches for others.. Anyway..Kinda makes me think that's it.. here's the link...

Hey guys..got a customers car here.. problem?.. Trunk lock not activating at all, no tag lights or trunk light operation.. Have 12v to trunk lock and tag lights ect( +12v on both pins of all except lock with one pin 0v) Rear camera works fine as the tail lights etc.. also.. seems no...

Thanx all for the help!.. Got the sway bar installed yesterday.. And I do believe next time it will be a breeze..E.G. "silly easy!".. Special thanx to OIL HAMMER!

Thanx guys! I mostly work on classic muscle vintage trucks etc.. cars last 20 years or so.. but have gotten into VW'S and other sedans somehow?..It's on my lift.( fully equipped shop). I have replaced the t stat ( a pain!) before also..just the unknown bothers me...End links are OFF..Soo I'll...

Thanx Will27! Holy SheeT!.. That's a "little" more complicated than Oilhammers "SILLY EASY"!.. I assume your intructions are from the factory manual Will27?..Alot of times people find an easier way over the years to do things compared to what the manual says..I certainly have with other...

O/k..please advise.. I have never dropped a sub frame..I need to slide/remove this sway bar out.. should I raise the car to remove a tire ( seems that's a must to slide it out?) and then drop the sub frame and then remove it?,.. I have it on my lift and am not sure what to do? Please help...

Thanx O/H.. but not sure what you mean by this statement.. " I take the whole rack out with THEM" What is them??.Oh well..I already got the DPF out by cutting the lower bracket, did not lower the sub frame for that.. I can weld bracket back together if needed later.. Thanx!

Hey all.. have a 2013 passat with the front sway bar bracket bushing bolts rusted and broke in half, even one of the brackets split in half!....Never seen a sway bar more difficult to remove..I removed the end links.. whats next? Is there an easier way than dropping the sub-frame or removing...

Use a reducer fitting..Can go from 2-3 inch down to whatever you need!

Hey Got Euro!.. Thanx for the response..Got a picture of it? I'm in Athens Ga. 30677..what would the total be with shipping? I guess Jimbote bailed?

Thanx!.. it is the "quicksilver/very light grey" but any color will do, I own a resto shop and can change the color if needed..preferably a lighter color if you have it?.. Thanx a bunch!.. Forrest