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On the CJAA here are the exact steps: Keep in mind that you CAN break both the plastic oil dipstick tube and the plastic coolant pipe if you are not careful TOOLS: You "must have" a quarter inch wobbly extension AND a stubby triple square socket - I use: TITAN 16138 9-Piece Low Profile Impact...

That is usually caused by a timing belt being off, the camshaft sensor beginning to fail or the crank sensor beginning to fail. Do you have VCDS? That should get you closer to what is failing.

There is not a lot of overlap on those two projects. The flywheel is certainly the easier of the two - I can have it out in less than 3 hours doing it in my driveway. The DPF is less fun but usually you remove the axle but that's about the only overlap. Both are bad if they fail so I would go...

To be honest, the timing belt, delete are on the other side of the engine so I would do the transmission fluid change separately. The delete is a solid 4-6 hours and the timing belt is likely 2 hours. You can get it done in one full day without too much trouble.

The camshaft or crankshaft sensors can also cause this behavior but usually it will leave a code ( but not a MIL). The engine will fire but die immediately. Did you check for any codes?

Those look like catalytic converter error messages not DPF. If you have VCDS you might get more details or have the dealer read the codes

So stock fuel rail pressure sensor 03L906051 - 2k stock pressure is rated at 2000mb but the stock software caps the psi at 1900 to leave a margin of error. 04L906054 -2.2k upgraded rail can be added BUT you MUST do a tune and you can bring the pressure to 2000mb, which I can verify is a...

Ahh, thermostats go bad all the time! The most expensive part of the job is the antifreeze, so if you do the timing belt as the same time it saves you a little. However doing a CP3 and a thermostat is nice because you will have some extra space the the CP4 removed. If you do the CP3, definitely...

I can verify that you CAN replace the thermostat and plastic pipe without service position or removing the oil cooler. I have done this several times now and if your under the car other than to remove the skid plate, your doing it the hard way. Replacing the plastic pipe is not usually...

To be honest, it's usually a pulley or the water pump that fails and THEY cause the belt to break. The complete timing belt kit with everything is about $400 so if you want piece of mind, it's a pretty easy install.

FlowDirekt has one with a CAT and then there is virtually no smell at all. And tunezilla tunes do keep one sensor too

Those all point to the DPF going bad. It cracks and or clogs and is VERY common. You likely are out of the emissions warranty but definitely find out as it's not cheap to fix. Literally I see one of these posts per day now and after the dieselgate fix that VW did it really seems to be a common...

YES, more turbo is always better!!

Hmm..I swore I saw it but I just checked the VCDS and looks like only rail pressure on the CJA. Looks worth a shot to check the lift pump pressure and aux pump pressure. I have put a CP3 on all of mine so there is only 6psi pressure from the tank to the pump. Is fuel economy ok? Wonder if it...

Do you have VCDS? That would really help and is with the purchase to save you from buying parts that are not broke! No the rail does not hold any pressure when off and it sounds like air is getting into the line or poor fuel pressure to the HPFP.

Of course the DPFs go out on these daily now but YES they go pretty easily past 200k. Other than the DPF or HPFP, they hold up well. The injectors are different than older models and may eventually need service but even that is pretty easy. Kerma is good or honestly just a Bosch replacement is fine

I agree with only replacing one bad one BUT as mentioned I would verify the wiring is not damaged. Of course if you put the new injector in you will know if it's wiring pretty quick

A few things: 1. Did someone recently change the fuel filter? The hoses can easily get reversed and will trigger that code as you are mentioning. 2. There is an intermediate fuel pump. It can go bad and will NOT throw a code. Actually you can unplug it and still no codes. 3. There is also a...

6.5 psi to the CP3 is fine. Very strange on the Pump failure but looks like your back in business!

In case anyone is wondering on the fuel rail pressure sensor: 03L906051 - 2k stock pressure 04L906054 -2.2k upgraded rail Both are stock VAG part numbers. There is a 2700mb sensor but you need different injectors to go beyond 2000mb, so don't bother. There is no benefit to having a 2700mb...