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Im guilty as well, either way you can't rule out valve guides/ seals in a turbo diesel, which was my only real argument here. For further information, Ive never thrown a vacuum gauge on diesel. But now im actually curious:ROFLMAO:

Diesels hardly make any vacuum so they arent going to run any accessories like hvac, brake boosters, wastegate, blah blah. Piston moving down creates vacuum some vacuum, throttle plates make restriction and store vacuum. Vacuum goes down significantly under throttle as well.. Ever have...

Pull the intake and check for yourself. Definitely vacuum at idle, definitely enough to suck oil. A leaking valve guide is going to leak when the engine is off, then its going to burn it off on a cold start. Under load your going to have boost. But sitting in traffic you can...

False. Pull the upper intake hose off with the engine running . Plenty of vacuum at idle. Easy to check for valve guide/ seal failure. Pull intake and look inside the ports. If the are doused with oil/ grease they are toast.

Rear struts and coils in!!! It wasn't bad, remove rear parcel shelf/ cover. Obvious bits over seat belts. Remove rear trim. Stuff a rag to push the plastic out. Swivel socket (not a u joint!!!) Comes right out. I ended up taping the socket to the bolt to get it started. Put it back...

Thanks I will attemp this next week!

Anyone have a link to a short cut for rear struts in a wagon? Looks like the entire backseat/ trunk has to come apart... Struts must have been the 2nd thing rolling down the assembly line... 😁

Right kinda overlooked that. How many teeth (flywheel) would be considered acceptable?

Theres a reason my B4V stays in the garage 😭

I would leave the cam stock. You can easy change the cam in a few hours on your day off. Its not a big process

I dont know if that's a stock flywheel. Stock flywheel has a "pointer". It's not uncommon for the marks not to line up as the belt stretches. Yeah that cam is beat. Id parts has the replacement kit for ~150.0 USD. Its easy follow the manual...and torque them from the middle...

Oil leakage from worn valve seals or valve guides will cause some Oil burning. Not too much because diesels dont make a lot of vacuum, especially under load. If you had piston valve contact, at the minimum there would be a cracked lifter and a misfire. But most like it would be...

1 tooth is kind of a lot. If the valves were damaged you'd know by now.

I wouldn't bother. Dump the oil and send it out. Otherwise you are chasing your tail. I always install magnetic drain plugs in everything.... filter magnets are a great idea too.

Do an oil analysis. They will tell you what the wear metals are, and where they are coming from. Looking at the oil isn't very scientific. Cam and lifters is a very cheap and easy job to do if they dont look good.

They aren't too bad to reaseal. Use the injector removal slide hammer. Thread it on injector and let the slide fall a couple times to re seal it. They will leak if you disturb the injector by loosing a line some times, other times they are so stuck in they are near impossible to remove.

Honestly man I hate it. It makes oil changes such a hassle. I drive A LOT so this aggravates me.

I have one in my jetta. Theres a company i Europe thar makes new ones i forget where though. Looked like it would fitthe us spec bumper bumper/ rad support but im no expert.

Did some work to the 96 Wagon.. Cabin air filter. Topped of oil. Shes using a little under a quart every 1000 miles, not terrible for an engine with 320,000 and has been tuned a minute. Installed front struts and new springs to replace the KV coils that would bottom out on literally...

Update: Alternator took a dump. Repaced with a known good spare and all is good. Voltage is pretty much rock solid now, drops a little bit under load but nothing to be concerned about. I think it was tired and high load was giving it a heart attack. Cold start combined with...