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lol ^ one flaw, the rest of his car would be mk4 parts.

what you say isnt true to any/or much extent. using purge in the tank, a full bottle to a full tank is good maintenance. it works good. to bottle feed (some how mongler comes up with a 'closed loop' term, & you repeated) is a concentrated shot. can do quite a cleaning to pump to injectors...

if the maf code comes up i wouldnt take the 'block' or 'group' readings you have there. if the code is reading(as an error), the sensor isnt giving a correct reading, like in vag-com 'blocks'. or to ecm. is CEL light on? heres what i do. with key off. unplug the MAF connector. its right on the...

threads get well oiled, and shoulder of stretch main bolt. its light oiling, do not use anti-seize. its light oil, hence lightly oil bolt, threads etc, with light oil. 0w-xx or a 5w-xx syn (high grade) works out real good. to let wyopel know, i had seen VW gears for $100, and some places for...

i think the 'T' either seals ok or doesnt. either you get it to seat right or you have problems, or its broke. you have to be careful with this 'T' its expensive to replace. mine i had to tap down. use fuel or additive to lube filter seal and easily try to seat. if you have to tap down, like i...

i was under the impression your wire fix had fixed this 'dead pedal' issue. check your codes w/VCDS. its possible a bad sensor or contact. clean up contacts, and hook back up. (maf sensor, n75 contact, intake temp contact. &etc.). check vac lines, perhaps replace? a 'dead pedal' issue can mean...

if i think about it. i think the injector over-flow/return lines can let air into the inlet of system. id put all new return lines and an end-cap, up to pump, and replace return line from pump to filter('T'), check 'T', and line from filter to return plastic line. goes back to tank.

air in the fuel line can be from any connection and/or hose, including such as the old filter, letting air in. check all connections. return 'T' can be bad. i ve had an old filter that let air in. it takes some time of running for the air to purge. it can also be the pump. esp the main seal...

one of the only other things i can come up with is, check the clear line for air? on VCDS there are 'blocks', 'groups', where you can check out different areas of engine, IQ for instance. the one CEL code could have been up for so long, EGR clogged the intake over time?? one intake i pulled...

a clogged/ unmaintenanced fuel filter is a good bet. a few people have had this problem. new quality filter, prime first. change the air filter as well, if you havent done one the other needs it!, while your at it, clean the air-box. PP has china brand 109 relays, ~$10 i guess. they work, for...

if you have the im shaft pulley removed, the carrier is underneath. its right there now. the seal carrier. you seem to have removed it. i think now the shaft can come out some, what im asking is im not 100% sure if the shaft has the same end-play lip as earlier models. i think it does, or is...

i have a mk3 (AHU). the injector pump has at least 2 anti-tamper tools that are needed. im looking for both if possible. the one for the pumps (front of car) the plastic quantity adjuster cover i need the most. the other (anti-tamper) screw is of course on the top cover.

total amount for this project is ~$23. very reasonable. i didnt buy separate shrink wrap/tube. its more expensive. i bought a lot of stuff that was a close fit, i went back to the store like 3x, so i have extras of similar stuff. probably wont use too much of that stuff, they are in the $3-$6...

after a few trips to the auto store for these parts. i used female snap, slide-on type connectors. wire, of course, a couple of large ga butt connectors, (shrinkable), a couple of male, and 2 covered female connectors. took some along with the extra store trips to get together, seems to work...

i got some good butt connectors and other stuff to do this. i was hesitant to use crimp connectors to do this. the wire nuts give a lot of connection, crimp-ons can be iffy. again thanks.

to note, my ^post above: there are any number# of steps before the info i have in the above post, to get timing procedure correct. and there are steps after. the info in the post is mainly to set up so you can 1:mark the pump pulley, (with the white-out)and then 2:move the pump one...

yea thanks todd for the link. and the info / your work on the subject, area. its esp the connector info i needed. so they workout/connect with out too much trouble. i think im going to put the wires together with screw-on wire caps. not as neat as can be, or like yours. and bulky. but they...

this may apply to mars' topic as well. (below). i totally do not agree. i have a situation as it is in two cars, both mk3s. if you set up TB correctly, and in doing so the IP at the 'pin' point, it/mine never start. they will chug over and not start...

some time in the last year, i remember a post, it may have been by todd, or one of the other veteran members. it was for personal re-wiring of the GPs. i need to find that info or post. my GP harness is finished. i was going the 'easy' route. some wire, 4-type of connectors, and some wire caps...

ok so its 6 5/16 inches. that comes to 160mm length. thats from base of bolt head to end of length. has a tapered end. like i said mine fits a 16mm socket. it will also have a 8mm stud on the bolt end. it looks like 10mm diameter. (x__? threads idk off the top of my head, std metric me...