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Many useful comments here re: cluster repair but the root cause of your failure appears to be the fan/harness incident. A short circuit there (an improper connection of an unfused +12V wire with a direct ground path) has heated both the positive wire and its ground path co-conspiritor wire...

Plug the third brake light assembly into it's connector (where you observed 11.7 V with no load) and measure the voltage with the load applied. If the circuit provides 12V with no load but does not with a load applied then resistance in the supply side of the circuit is likely. If the 12V is...

I had a similar over temp failure of a capacitor in my BMW touring. I'd have no tach/speedo when the cabin got summertime hot. I don't see why the VW panel couldn't fail in a similar fashion.

You can separate mechanical and hydraulic causes by opening the sticking caliper's bleed fitting when the brake is stuck. If trapped hydraulic fluid is the problem the caliper will relax, if mechanical drag is the issue it probably won't.

There are specific removal tools available for most automotive connectors but you seem to be on the right track in your picture. When I made my tools I used a piece of plain wire, hammered the end flat to thin it slightly then filed it to width. I wound up with an essentially rectangular cross...

This bring to mind the timeless, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!" The turbo will give you plenty of notice that it's nearing the end of its service life. Till then, as Abacus suggests, drive it.

The high clutch pedal is key! Something is amiss in the release hardware, the pressure plate is not applying full clamping force to the disc. Somehow the throwout bearing and the release arm are not able to retract fully. Try opening the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder to see if hydraulic...

Yes, lots of interest. PM sent.

Easy enough to check for +12V from ign. switch to solenoid when no-start condition exists. The solenoid does two things; it mechanically engages the motor's bendix drive with the flywheel and, at the end of that engagement stroke, it closes the high amperage switch which energizes the starter...

Exhaust or Intake lifter more damaged?

My '97 1Z Passat has an EGR cooler so at least some '97s are so equipped. EEE

Look at the voltage being supplied to the starter solenoid thru your 'bypass' circuit and switch. Any combination of factors (weak battery, poor terminals, voltage loss thru bypass wiring) could lower the voltage to a critical level. What that level is exactly will vary with the condition of...

1.Check the flywheel timing mark AFTER the belt tensioner is set. Often the act of tensioning the timing belt will move the engine slightly and create a timing error. 2. You say you used 'flat metal' and feeler gauge(s) to locate the camshaft. The locating slot in the cam is offset so the...

http://vagpart.com/vw/passat-pa-us-1997-86780-luggage-compartment-trim/ I think you're looking for #10 Grommet, it receives the plastic tabs attached to the trim piece. The drawing shows an 'expanding rivet' to attach the rear edge of the lining to the lid but mine has 4 sheet metal screws...

You need to be logging data with VCDS when the symptom presents itself. This could be happening almost anywhere, frayed wires in the IP harness, blockage in the fuel delivery plumbing (less likely in my opinion), ignition switch gremlins, quantity adjuster inside the IP, just about anywhere an...

My guess is that the 'solid core' wire is not a wire at all but a fine capillary tube with a sensing bulb at the end in the HVAC housing. The thermostatic switch is opened/closed by a bellows connected to the bulb. The two blue wires have continuity above a certain temperature at the bulb and...

I think you've recognized this but I'll offer some emphasis: Without regard to IP timing, if the timing relationship between the crank and cam shafts remained intact then there was no danger of piston/valve interference. You seem to infer that this was the case and, if so, you probably did get...

Interestingly, if you google 028 109 248 you get a whole slew of similar tensioner pullys for all manner of different cars. Maybe the part # is just for the eccentric hub? Dunno, but it's the same # for a bunch of parts.

The Y hose is deteriorated by diesel leaking from the IP. I think it's a fairly common sequence of events.

OK, after reading your referenced post, I must concede that the tensioner could well be the responsible component (belt track restored with replacement of tensioner only). So, if the failures you documented originated with Litens part(s), how do we protect ourselves from these failures? It...