Looks like that girdle spacers were cut too short bending the girdle down below the pan rail and the girdle pulled up the block center along with crank load... looks like it anyway..
Curious... my stuff is all still a bag of parts so if anyone wants to take a measurement... how much torque...
I would first pressurize the intake system to make sure you don't have any leaks. Those two intake runners (3,4) having clamp bridge the two of them instead of individually looks like a leak waiting to happen, especially since it could create a buckle in the coupler. Use a PVC cap sized to fit...
You may even be able to fit the timing tensioner pulley in that spot, bigger bearing, bigger OD and side flanges. It can get really close to the crank and be ok and still be ok if its a 1/4" away from the opposing direction of the same belt on the other side as long as the next pulley up stream...
I moved away from using the timing idler pulley because of its size. Being its small it will rotate much faster than originally designed. Most idlers use a larger bearing and a larger circumference for this reason as well. In addition it is now going at a faster speed because it is driven by...
NV3550 and 4.56 on 32-33's is a perfect combo. I started with 4.10s on 33's and it wasn't enough gear. It was ok but not ideal. I went 4.88's as I will go with 35's as it goes back together... and 4.56's weren't avail when I did it. The tdi sheared rear R&P teeth in the middle of the desert...
The 98 Jettas had a problem with the ignition switch on the column. In addition to the starting problem it would just randomly die while driving. It was related to having too much weight on the key chain. You may want to look into that.
I found that moving the torque up worked better for a heavier vehicle. Mine was in a loaded wrangler (bumpers, winch, full size spare, etc) If your Dakota has a NV3550 in it you have a close ratio first gear anyway. The key is to make sure its geared properly.
If your going to rely on the...
Will that de-lipping be creating a really smoky burn and reduce combustion efficiency by eliminating the re-entrant part of the design. I know it was done to drop the CR.
What were those pistons to start with and what are you intending the CR to be with those cuts?
I would like to see a dyno chart overlaid with a SOI timing chart that keeps things alive at those levels.
I get not having a typical diesel low rpm power curve in favor for a gas like curve with more power and torque up high and that it is key. But here stateside very few people are doing this...
How to keep PCP in check at 45+ psi in a compound setup without having your own tuning software... When even the right conditions can spike PCPs temporarily enough to warrant a need for something stronger than an ARP 2000.
Question is where can we get an H11 or similar ALH stud these days?
A1 who made Whitbreads is no longer in business.
Does anyone know of another motor that has a similar stud that can be made to work for an ALH in H11 or similar?
This...
BTU's are what drive the turbo. They all have tip in smoke. Even OEM on stock tunes.. Today that is removed through the DPF.
OH and yeah... your ALH, AHU, 1Z all did too when they were new. The cat that came on them was more of a particulate trap than anything else.
Careful when...
Its not that your trimmer could spy on you..... its when it gets hacked in the middle of you using it and you spend the next month telling yourself it will grow back!
I've used it quite a few times. It seems to work well on the outside at keeping temps down. The key is a quality application. A lot of places wont do the inside of a turbo manifold. Its hard to guarantee the bond and they don't want the liability of chunks taking out a wheel. However for...
Actually it is likely the engineering was done in a highly developed country but was obtained through backdoor a means.. then relabeled and put into processing at a place where all that matters is the mighty dollar and its sold to you and me. Happens everyday.... and on a much larger scale...
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