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I don't own it any more, but the #1 improvement on my B4V (now ownedby @Abacus), is changing the shifter linkage over to the later mk4 02J linkage. So much better than the stock ljnkage, even with new bushings. Other notables: Bigger G60 front brakes from an Audi 90 Tune with nozzles Heated...

Under the front passenger side carpet, just in front of the seat. Unfortunately common for that space to fill with water from leaking/disconnected sunroof drains and cause all sorts of mayhem. Happens on the drivers side as well.

Best of luck. Hard to find good working GMRs these days. Decent number of these cars in the bone yards, but the reason is usually a dead transmission...

Warming oil fully is always a good idea. Perpetually colder oil can trap moisture and be detrimental to engine longevity. Frost heaters are great I have as well and plug it in on a timer in the colder months. Short trips are not the best for diesels. Even worse on newer engines equipped with...

Oil on PD cams is a contentious subject - lots of opinions. Only way to tell sure if there is cam damage is to inspect the cam directly - look for chamfered edges all the way around each cam lobe. No chamfer = lobe wearing down. I personally would not take a PD cam to 10,000mi OCI even if...

https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Appleton,+ME+04862,+USA/Harbor+Freight+Tools,+265+Camden+St,+Rockland,+ME+04841,+United+States/@44.2085653,-69.3638962,11.5z/data=!4m14!4m13!1m5!1m1!1s0x4cae0aba838c0dab:0x8322df363512e5f9!2m2!1d-69.2508768!2d44.289243!1m5!1m1!1s0x4cadd1c8305e656b:0x9457cf698bbe6fb...

Step one: buy cheap stethoscope Step two: take off top TB cover and use stethoscope to determine source of noise Step three: profit

Or get a cheap stethoscope from harbor freight and use it to determine which component is making the noise

Has anyone ordered, received and installed PD injectors from them?

Having owned one of these, they tune with changing physical chips on the circuit board as opposed to flashing through the ALDL port. Some of the earliest ecus were not socket Ed, you have to solder your new chips to the board or socket them before Tuning.

Vehicle /year 2005 Passat Engine BHW 2.0 Mileage 625k km Original or New Camshaft Original Oil used Shell Rotella T6 since I bought the car 10y ago and 240k km Oil change intervals 10k km

Thanks - I managed to get both the balance shafts out from the front without the puller or yanking the transmission to beat them out from the back side. Have the tools as well, Amazon makes things crazy easy these days

Old timers thread... :) I've stupidly or smartly stuck with VW. Still have my passat wagon - now at 625,000km, kid has a 2008 rabbit with the boat-anchor 2.5 5cyl, wife drives the Q5 (gas 3.2), and fixing up a EA888 tiguan with a busted chain for the daughter. Never ends with VWs. The most...

I have a QJ 7000TL - I like it. There are times where I will only use a regular floor jack and an axle stand, but for longer jobs, or where I want all wheels off the ground, like seasonal tire changes, it's a time saver. I'm currently redoing the cylinder head and timing chain on a TSI tiguan...

Yes, while the cam in a BRM is slightly more aggressive than a BHW, I would still not hesitate to use T6 in a BRM PD

06 no dpf. I have 625k km on my PD BHW Passat. The last 400k have been on Rotella T6. I wouldn't use anything else, even without VW certification

1998: 637,000 km 1998 diesel4ever (my niece) 521,000 km 1998 soundchk 463,289 km 1998 rhyland 442,569 km 1998 gaddman 390,000 km 1998 chaloux (beetle) 248,270 km 1998 p2b 197,940 km 1998 keks 98,500 km 1998 big_worm81 1999: 746,871 km 1999.5 chef 740,000 km 1999.5 cosmic green (retired june...

Gonna say the same That part of the spline shaft doesn't see any additional stresses while operating, just tension once the nut is torqued. The splines sure see torsional loading, but that would fail where the splines meed the joint. Overtorqued nut for sure

I was in the "whoops, guess I have to install the clutch line now" camp. I was able to weasle it in by loosening off the master cylinder to booster bolts. Most of the way and lifting the booster up with a ratchet strap. Got it out of the way far enough to get the ridgid line installed.

Do you have a picture of the clutch installed and torqued down before the transmission was put back in? How were the fingers - flush/horizontal? inset or proud of the pressure plate?