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Rembursement Claim Here is a copy of the text in the correspondence I just sent back to VW about my issue. To Who It May Concern, I have received the initial refusal to provide reimbursement under the AdBlue heater warranty extension dated January 3, 2017. The refusal was based on an...

figured it out - I sprayed the connectors with lubricant beforehand so that they would come apart easily. This worked, but it caused the gasket in some of the connectors to expand. It kept them from clicking into place.

AARGH!!!! Everything is going smooth except for the fact that I cannot get two of the locking electrical connectors to seat. They wont go in far enough to lock. They both connect to the little control modules on the front and the back of the tank. Assistance would be appreciated!

P202A in California 56k miles

For those that dont know you just hook it up to the wire harness and then turn the ignition on with the valve uninstalled. Dont start the car. Run the EGR test with the vcds and watch the valve to make sure that it seats and opens smoothly. Just because the VCDS reads out a duty cycle doesnt...

Confirmed - the EGR valve was bad. I should have done this earlier but this has been a great learning process with this car. Im pretty familiar with it now. Now ill need to tune my turbo a little bit more. Im not getting the same boost level that I was before I adjusted it.

I did it today. I think this was an issue with me not being familiar with the VCDS. There is a way to cycle it with the VCDS when it is off. I found that my old one was bad. I should have done this earlier.

Also the manufacturer of the EGR valve I ordered claims that their product is an improved version of the OEM

I think that when you run the test for the turbo actuator it uses the N75 valve while the rpms go up and down. There's also a separate test specific to the N75 valve but I cant tell you exactly how to get there without going and plugging into the car.

So do you think im on the right track? The EGR valve will be here tomorrow or Tuesday

Sorry for the confusion. I just received my Bentley and its the G500 sensor not the G581. I found it in Group 43 Block 2 in a readout of % not voltage. I would have helped to have this labeled appropriately in the VCDS software.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=349628

So here's what I did today to readjust the vane limit stop set screw, and I wish I would have done it earlier but its a learning process, right? I didn't know if the ECU was cutting the engine due to the actuator indicating too high of a % or if it was an actual choke of the motor due to...

Maybe I didnt open up the vanes enough when I rigged it on the bench? Today im going to adjust the vane stop limit again by looking at the VCDS to see what % its at when it stumbles while its running. Then I can apply vacuum with the mighty vac and screw in the mechanical stop to reach the target.

Now I'm totally confused. I have adjusted the actuator ten times tonight and progressively decreased the duty cycle from 101, 98, 95, 90, 87, 85, 80 and then I went to 50 just to see what would happen. Its the same thing, once the actuator moves the adjustable vanes to the stop limit, the car...

I think im figuring it out. Theres a lot of info in bits and pieces here but no one thread that describes it.

I like http://www.rockauto.com because you can get good deals on quality oil filters and air filters. They have other parts too and you can choose from different manufacturers that provide a description of the parts they offer.

So tonight I figured out how to adjust the turbo vane actuator while it is installed on the car. I was worried that I would have to remove the oil drain line again but there is pretty clear access to the bottom side of the pushrod from underneath the car. Tests with the VCDS (Block 43 Field 2)...

Subscribed to this thread. Good info - thanks

Thanks man Ill check it out when I get home