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I just started having these exact same symptoms. Vibrates on acceleration and is more frequent when hot. Shut the car off for a few mins and it runs fine after. Very odd issue and definitely electrical in nature. Anyone have luck finding the issue?

OP, did you get this sorted? I have the exact same symptoms on my Jetta.

I just happen to have a spare hose to measure, its 4.5mm wide by 2.5mm deep.

Sounds like a boost leak, check the barbs on the hose where it's connected to the turbo outlet, when they wear boost leaks from the hole it creates in the barb. Another hard to spot boost leak is the intake manifold, check that the bolts aren't loose.

Tinted side mirrors?

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Rrusse11, I think you replied to me in the wrong thread :). Thanks for the tip on the rims though.

Sounds like bearing noise to me, but my laptop speakers are crap. Definitely take the serp belt off and see if it goes away, don't delay though, could be catastrophic if it's a roller on the t-belt.

Interesting thread as I'm going to be getting new tires and a stage 4 tune this spring I suppose I need to consider finding some 16" rims for better tire selection. I wonder though why the op is having such traction issues, I could understand some wheel slip here and there with his setup but it...

Good call, I missed that when I read the post. Yes, if your fuel is just dribbling out instead of squirting it's not going to do much.

Well, sounds like you've got many bases covered. You need fuel(check), compression(unlikely to be an issue), that leaves air. When my turbo died the compressor wheel split and blocked the intake so it couldn't get enough air to start, try pulling the intake pipe off the asv and see if it starts...

Do you have vcds? If so go to instruments and output tests and check that the guages cycle properly, and also check for fault codes. Beyond that you probably have a bad connection on the back of the cluster.

Did the replacement clutch fix your issue OP? I just installed a SBC stage 2 smf kit and I have the same shaking/vibration (although they existed before but my failing DMF made them worse).

Did you ever resolve this? I have the same issue with mine, blamed my failing dmf and now that I replaced it with an smf and put a new trans mount and dogbone its better but still there.

LOL, glad it was simple and cheap! Don't bother getting a turbo until you need one, It'll let you know, maybe without warning though (the impeller on mine blew apart randomly while shifting into second under fairly normal acceleration). But if you have boost and not losing oil, don't worry about...

Thanks for the input everyone. If the circumstances allowed it ( i.e a more local source for the part) I would likely exchange it. However the car has been sitting for almost 2 weeks now due to time constraints and a couple injurys and with the vendors approval I'm going to take a chance on it...

Well the vendor responded and while they were willing to exchange it they said it's fairly common and there is no guarantee the next one would be any better. So in the interest of time and money I decided to just keep it for now, the holding power wouldn't be affected much i'm sure, I just hope...

I’d suggest you bite the bullet and get that belt done before doing anything else. Would suck to do a bunch of work for a bunch of money just to have that let go on you.

The answer to this from an economics perspective is add up the cost to fix vs the difference of selling and buying another car. If it’s say more than $1000 more to fix than changing cars, then it might be worth it to sell and move on, only you can answer that. However if you really LOVE the car...

Cool, thanks for the link. 3000’ isn’t insignificant altitude, we’re at 900mbar atmospheric pressure. So basically the turbo has to spin faster just to get up to sea level pressure and then more to make the boost to get the required air flow. Basically increases the work the turbo does by...