Search results

From what I can see you've got 2 shots, either the sensor, or the ring. Pull the sensor to verify correct part #, check the trans codes to verify those, and I believe the reluctor ring for the sensor is the flywheel ring gear, possible also to replace with incorrect size.

Is the donor a TDI?

I don't know what you're using now, but I like oil filter pliers. They may leave a mark on the plastic, but the the angle lets you generate a lot of torque, and they're universal. You may have a case of the oring in the incorrect groove and it being overtightened. Good luck.

Fuel additives and longer periods of cold operation are harder on mileage than A/C use.

I had a similar thing happen, ended up being the ignition switch. Just died while driving, also the cluster was dead. No warning lights, just dead, no start. Towed it on a ramp truck, started right up. It had acted up once before, a few weeks earlier had died and restarted while at cruising...

If any TDI is ready for a tune mileage is not an issue. If you're trying to get more power out of a sick engine, not the right way to go about it. At 300k and 14 years, there are a lot better things that can probably be done first. Example, have your injectors ever been serviced and the nozzles...

Send a PM to Peter @ IDParts. He's had or has a wagon and has tried just about every suspension combo that can be tried. He'll tell you the truth, not try to sell you what's on sale.

I would use either of the mentioned additives in your fuel, no matter where you buy fuel, and not worry. Moisture could already be in your fuel system, why take a chance? It's almost impossible to use too much additive, many people pre fill their fuel filters using it.

RC3 and good balanced nozzles, then start saving for a clutch. After that things get pricey.

Could be a lot of things. I'm no guru either. Check your alternator pulley, a/c clutch, and exhaust mount at the converter to begin with.

1--Absolutely. Nothing has changed in 10 years, I'm sure everything else is like new in the belt's path too. 2--You have to mark & pray, no atheist has ever successfully changed a belt without tools.

She wants you.

I've had an '11 Fiesta for the last year and can accurately report on this car with 30k. Some of the basics, it's a base model, hatchback, manual trans, rear drums, 7 air bags. The car is tiny, but the drivers seat is adjustable 3 ways. Commuting 40 miles each way to work in a lot of stop and go...

If you've gone that far you should remove the battery and clean the 3 grounding points under it. It might help if we knew what kind of tools you had access to. No VCDS, how about a compression gauge?

It was probably the owner of the dealership parking his own car there. It was an express parts driver. It as a prop in a porno video. Someone's idea of a prank. The robbers left it there. Anything but.

There are 3 grounds under the battery, disassemble and clean them well. Corrosion may not be visible as the connectors are not copper.

Go to a real hardware store and ask for a sealant that cures in the presence of oil. I've used this on a HHO tank in my house for a couple of weeks until I could get an appointment to replace the tank. I would still do what Ski says, it will allow a better curing time.

Marinco makes one for marine use that has a rubber weather tight cover. This one is held on from the back by a large nut, a hole saw allows it to mount in the lower grill securely and unobtrusively.

Motion detector lights, on the most sensitive setting so they go on during the day. I've counted over 30 turkeys in my yard at one time, but they won't go in the carport. Wild turkeys are very intelligent, but physically goofy. Very funny to see one fall out of a tree during a snowstorm, not so...

Check the upper intercooler hose to the EGR for a split. This will produce both conditions. It will also get worse quickly.